Over the Range to the Golden Gate A Complete Tourist's Guide To Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, California, Oregon, Puget Sound, and the Great Northwest By Stanley Wood Revised to 1904 by C. E. Hooper Chicago R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co., Publishers 1906 COPYRIGHT By S. K. HOOPER 1894 REVISED EDITION COPYRIGHT By S. K. HOOFER 1904 iTtir Uahmtir ^jrrss R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY, PRINTERS CHICAGO V ! ) PREFACE. K T is no light undertaking to prepare a guide-book which shall ade- quately describe the places of interest on the great trunk lines between Denver on the hither side of the Rocky Mountains, San Diego at the southern extremity of California, and Portland, Seattle, ij and Tacoma, the three commercial entrepots of the Great North- west. Yet such is the undertaking purposed. In a work of this character fact must ever stand paramount to fancy, and lucidity of expression take' the precedence. No attempt will be made at "fine writing"; every effort will be made to state just such facts as the traveler would like to know, and to state these facts in clear and explicit language. The country traversed is most interesting, abounding in scenes of the greatest variety, from the broad and billowy expanse of the boundless prairie to the rugged grandeur of the American Alps, from the picturesque quaintness of New Mexico and the nomadic wildness of the Indian reservations to the polished civilization of metropolitan cities. There is no journey which can be taken on the continent of North America that presents so much of interest to the tourist, and which can be taken with such a comparatively moderate outlay of lime and money, as the one described in the following pages. New Mexico, Colorado, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory! What a field for investigation, investment or pleasure! These are the lands of gold, of silver, of coal, of agriculture, of all fruits known to the temperate and sub-tropical zones. These are the lands of new endeavors, of fresh impulses, and for these reasons are of special interest to tourists, business men, and seekers after health and pleasure. Aside from the interesting character of the subject discussed, there is also a special value in the work now presented to the reader, inasmuch as great care has been taken to gather information that shall be found statistically accurate. In a work of this character it is difficult to combine accurate information with matters of general interest in such a way that neither shall have an undue prominence. The writer has endeav- ored to attain this desirable medium. One thing is certain, nothing in this book is venal in its character. The opinions here expressed are those of the writer; the descriptions of scenes given here are reproductions of the feelings inspired by those scenes. There has been no bias in any direction. On the contrary, every effort has been made to write judicially, and at the same time, retain the enthusiasm which the traveler naturally feels in beholding new sights and scenes. As an aid to the traveler abundant illustrations have been prepared, which will give the purchaser of this book an idea of what he may expect to see; and which, after he has beheld these places, will serve as a reminder of those pleasant scenes which by their assistance can never fade from his memory. It has been the endeavor of the writer to meet as nearly as possible the wants of all classes of travelers. Information of value to the tourist for pleasure, the health seeker, the sportsman, and the man of business, will be found in the pages of this book. Nothing has been written in the interests of any clique or class. The 27021 : Tli I' '?'"l|' 4 ?i.iu^li. { lU U iiti.^iiNi,.. aiiii.f'p PREFACE. 7 truth, and nothing but the truth, has been told. If there are errors they arc such as must necessarily occur in the compilation of a work covering such a vast extent of territory. Accuracy has been aimed at, and as a whole, the writer can vouch for the accuracy of what will be found herein. The hook is one written in the field and not in the study. Facts are not taken at second hand. The author writes of what he saw with his own eyes, and not what he read. The statistics have been gathered from authentic sources, and have been condensed into the most compact and convenient form. Hoping the book may \ rove a useful companion to the traveler, it is submitted without further comment to the public. dWWKH"S * * FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO DENVER. HE Missouri River lias come to be regarded, in a general way, as the boundary line between the East and the West, although, in truth, the: terms cast and west are extremely elastic in their appli- cation. However, for the purposes of this book we will consider that all on the sundown side of the Missouri River is West, and that the traveler has reached one of the three great entrepots to this vast country and finds himself in Omaha, St. Joseph, or Kansas City. Erom either of these thriving cities the journey to Denver can be taken by way of first- class transportation lines provided with all the modern conveniences and luxuries. From Omaha one has choice of the Burlington Route, the Rock Island, and the Union Pacific, and from Kansas City one can travel by any of the above lines with an additional choice between the Missouri Pacific, or the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. With Chicago or St. Louis as the initial point one can go direct by any of the trunk lines to the Missouri River and continue his journey to Denverover his choice among the routes mentioned above. The trip across the great plains from the Missouri River to Denver is full of interest and variety to one who beholds this vast expanse for the fust time. Nothing can give such a vivid impression of the greatness of our country, and the adventurous character of our people, as the sight of these boundless prairies and the habitations of the hardy pioneers who are rapidly turning the buffalo sod and exposing the rich black soil to the fertilizing action of the sun and air, and substituting for nature's scant forage, abundant harvests of corn and wheat. The railroads, for a distance of three or four hundred miles to the west of the Missouri River, pass through thriving cities, to which a com- paratively thickly settled agricultural country is tributary. Then the newer territory is reached, the towns are of less frequent occurrence and smaller in size, the plains appear more nearly in their native stale, only dotted here and there with the claim cabins of the settlers. As the traveler looks out of the car window across the billowy expanse, he sees herds of cattle and sheep, grazing on the rich bunches of buffalo-grass, and occasionally lie will catch a glimpse of the flying form of an antelope disappearing over the brow of a distant rise of land. Not uninteresting are the prairie dog villages with their pretcrnaturally grave inhabitants sitting on their haunches like diminutive kangaroos, and the writer has seen a whole carload of people filled with the most pleasureable excite- ment over the efforts of a jack-rabbit to outspeed the iron horse. With these and many other novel and interesting sights the time is whiled away until some traveler, more experienced, or more sharp of sight, suddenly cries out, "The Mountains!" There is a rush to his side of the car and everybody gazes earnestly, and amidst eager explanations and doubting comments the blue of the sky is at last disintegrated from the blue of the mountains, and the most skeptical at length acknowledges that the stain of ultramarine, with its undulating sweep against the western horizon is really the distance-enchanted range of the Rocky Mountains. Soon patches of 9 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. " fleecy white appear, and with a sigh of disappointment the traveler dei ides that the clouds are dropping down and will soon shut out the view of those "sentinels of enchanted land," but gazing more intently, it dawns upon the mind at last that those glimmering expanses are not veils of cloud, but are in fail mountain fields of everlasting snow! The Snowy Range has at last declared itself, and from this moment until the transcontinental journey shall have been accomplished, the traveler will have the immediate memory or the intimate presence of the mountains with him continually. The view of the Rocky Mountains which the traveler gains on approaching Denver from the east is one of unsurpassed beauty, and that this statement may not rest on the dictum of this book, let us take the testimony of the greatest traveler, and the most graceful descriptive writer America has yet produced. Bayard Taylor says: "I know no external picture of the Alps that can be placed beside it. If you take away the valley of the Rhone, and unite the Alps of Savoy with the Bernese Overland, you might obtain a tolerable idea of this view of the Roi kv Mountains. Pike's Peak would then represent the Jungfrau, a nameless snowv giant in front of you, Monta Rosa and Long's Peak, Mount Blanc. The altitudes very nearly correspond, and there is a certain similarity in forms. The average height of the Rocky Mountains, however, surpasses that of the Alps From this point there appears to be three tolerably distinct ranges. The first rises from two to three thousand feet above the level of the plains, is cloven asunder by the canons of the streams, streaked with the dark lines of the pine, which feather its summits and with sunny, steep slopes of pasture. Some distance behind it appears a second range, of nearly double the height, more irregular in its masses, and of a dark velvety violet hue. Beyond, leaning against the sky, are the snowy peaks, all of which are from thirteen to (nearly) fifteen thousand feet above the sea. These three chains, with their varying but never discordant undulations, are as inspiring to the imagination as they are enchanting to the eye. They hint of concealed grandeurs in all the glens and parks among them, and yet hold you back with a doubt whether they can be more beautiful near at hand than when beheld at this distance." The doubt so gravely expressed in the last sentence of our quotation, the trav- eler, when he shall have taken the transcontinental tour, will be fully able to resolve for himself. He will have beheld a bewildering variety of beauty, and in the quiet evenings at home, he will find material for the most exquisite enjoyment of pleasing reminiscence and reverie. With such an approach, Denver must needs be something more than ordinary not to strike the traveler as a discord in the grand harmony of the scene. It is a fact, and it is a pleasure for the writer to record it, that Denver is never a disap- pointment. What its peculiar charms may be, and how it appears to the stranger within its gates, will be described in the succeeding chapter. VIEW OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS, DENVER CTY HALL. P08TOFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE. COURT HOUSE, CITY AND COUNT* ~ c DENVER. 8TATE CAPITOL BUILDING. OLD MINT. FROM DENVER TO PUEBLO. DENVER, Capital of Colorado. Population, 170,000. Elevation, 5,198 feet. There are only a few cities in the world that please at first sight. Denver is one of this favored few. The liking one gets for Boston, Philadelphia or London is an acquired taste, but one falls in love at once with Paris, Denver, or San Francisco. It docs not follow that because the cities mentioned are immediately pleasing, they must of necessity resemble each other, any more than that a peach, an apple, or an orange should have a similar flavor. We like the fruit and we like the cities without having to learn to like them, but not for the same reasons. One feels a sense of exhilaration in the atmosphere of Den- ver. The grand view of the Snowy Range of mountains to the north and west, and the broad expanse of horizon-bounded plains to the east and south exalt the spirits, the bland but bracing breezes cool the fevered pulse, and the abundant oxygen of the air thrills one like a draught of effervescing champagne. A beau- tiful city, beautifully situated, is Denver, with broad, tree-shaded streets, with public buildings of massive proportions and attractive architecture, with residences erected in accordance with the canons of good taste, with innumerable lawns of shaven grass, ornamented with shrubs and flowers, with charming suburbs and an outlying country, studded with fertile farms and flowering or fruiting orchards, peace is within her duellings and plenty within her palaces. Denver has now nine- teen railroads, an extensive street railway system operating one hundred and sixty miles of electric railroad, reaching all the various portions of the city. Strangers will find that the most convenient and satisfactory manner of viewing the city is from the windows of the street cars, and to this end is operated a "Seeing Denver" car, which makes a tour, twice daily, of almost the entire city. The town is lighted by gas and electricity, its principal streets arc paved with asphaltum, has paid fire and police departments, and obtains its water from mountain sources by means of Holly works, and from over 600 artesian wells, varying in depth from 350 to 1,600 feet. The public buildings, exclusive of churches and schools, cost $4,771,000. The real estate belonging to the city is worth $3,439,207, the bonded debt is $1,422,800, and the assessed valuation of Denver is nearly $110,000,000. The commerce of Denver is now annually not less than one hundred and fifty millions ot dollars. Denver is situated at the junction of Cherry Creek and the Platte River, and is the capital of the State, and the seat of the "City and County of Denver." All the railroads which enter Denver land their passengers at the Union Depot, a massive and handsome edifice of native stone; originally built in 1SS0, and destroyed by fire in the spring of 1894, now re-erected, more beautiful and complete than before. Opposite the main entrance of the Union Depot, on Seventeenth Street, and at the south end of the building, on Sixteenth Street, electric car lines diverge to all parts of the city, passing the principal hotels and all points of interest. On the town- ward side of the Union Depot are the carriage stands, and if arrangements for 13 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. l 5 transportation have not already been made on the train, with the carriage company's agent, before reaching the city, a carriage can be engaged here. Prices are regu- lated by ordinance, and extortion prohibited by law. There are many objects of interest to see in Denver: The smelters, the public buildings, the Tabor Grand Opera House, the Broadway Theater, Brown Palace Hotel — probably the finest in the United States — magnificent business blocks, beautiful parks, the beau- tiful private residences, the homes of mining princes and cattle barons, the lovely suburbs, and Fort Logan, the United States Military Post. The hotel accom- COURT HOUSE, CITY AND COUNTY OF DENVER. modations of Denver are probably the most complete of any city of its population in the country. There are ten first-class hotels, provided with all modern improve- ments, to say nothing of some sixty odd less pretentious ones. A day, or better two days, can be profitably spent in D^ ver, and then, refreshed and rested from the long ride across the plains from the Missouri River or beyond, the tourist is ready to resume his transcontinental journey. If he wishes to behold the wonders of nature, and to get a familiar acquaintance- with the grandeur of the mountains, he will take the Denver & Rio Grande Railroai", which by universal acclaim has been designated "The Scenic Line of the World." Seated in a comfortable car, whose large windows give an excellent outlook on the scenery, the traveler is ready and anxious to be off. The busy Union Depot i6 OVER THE RANGE may amuse him for a moment, but anticipation of the wonders in store makes him impatient of delay. Soon the conductor gives the signal to the engineer, the inev- itable late passenger is seen chasing the rear end of the Pullman out of the depot, and whether he catches it or not, one thing is assured, the journey to the Pacific coast has begun, and from this time on the eye and mind will both find plenty to do in noting and recording Nature's most marvelous works. The first stop is made at I tn I'll h;i III. The station for the suburb of West Denver and the site of the great shops of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The buildings of the machine shops cover an area of five acres, and were erected at a cost of $300,000. (Distance from Denver, 2 miles.) Overland Park is a pleasant suburb to the southwest of Denver, and is COLORADO STATE CAPITOL, DENVER. supplied with one of the best race courses in the West. It is a fashionable resort, and connected with Denver by the suburban train service of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Petersburg' is a small town surrounded by farms, market gardens, and plats laid out as additions to Denver. (Distance from Denver, 8 miles.) To the west of Petersburg, 2 \ miles distant, lies Fort Logan, the United States Mili- tary Post. Fort Logan. A regimental post of United States troops has been here established, and has become the center of great interest. The quarters are ele- gant and substantial, consisting of handsome brick edifices. The parade ground is ample in proportions, and no expense has been spared to make this Post a model of its kind. The military band gives frequent concerts, and the citizens of Denver take great interest in and make frequent excursions to the Post. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad has established a very complete suburban train service for the accommodation of the Post and the general public, which is very largely patronized. Littleton is prettily situated on the east bank of the Platte River, is the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 7 center of a good agricultural country, and is destined to be the location of the suburban residences of many (if Denver's best citizens. Already an adequate suburban train service has been inaugurated for the convenience of persons having country homes at this delightful spot. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Den- ver, 10 miles. Elevation, 5,372 feet.) Wollllirst. Four miles beyond Littleton, the home of former United States Senator Wolcott. Aceqilia. A small station for the accommodation of ranchmen. TT.-re the High Line Canal, one of those great irrigating ditches characteristic of Colorado, crosses the track and takes its winding way to the northeast over the rolling plains, having under its fertilizing power at least a hundred thousand acres of otherwise- arid land. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 17 miles. Elevation, 5,530 feet.) Setlalia. A little village. Home market and post-office for cattle-growers and ranchmen. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 25 miles. Elevation, 5335 ^et.) Castle Rock. The town takes its name from a peculiar upthrust of rock on the summit of a conical hill, resembling, in the distance, an old martelle tower, and nearer by an irregular pentagonal structure. Under the shadow of this hill and surmounting tower lies the town, which is a pretty village and the count}- seat of Douglas County. Fine quarries of red sandstone are worked here, and pastoral industries contribute to the prosperity of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 33 miles. Elevation, 6,219 feet.) Doilg"laS. A station near which are stone quarries and grazing lands. (Popu- lation nominal. Distance from Denver, 35 miles. Elevation, 6,325 feet.) Between Douglas and Palmer Lake are the small stations of Glade, Larkspur, and Greeland. Perry Park is reached by stage from Larkspur station. This park abounds in curious formations of red sandstone; is watered by sparkling brooks and is one of the most popular resorts near Dei ver. As the train rolls into the station the traveler PALMER LAKE. Health and Pleasure Resort. Population, 250. Distance from Denver, 52 miles. Elevation, 7,237 feet. Eating Station. sees to his left a beautiful little lake cradled in the hills. Along the shore has been placed a hand- some cut stone embankment, and a neat and taste- ful boat-house has been erected and well storked with boats. The lake is a natural body of water, though the fact that a fountain plays in its center, casting a jet of water to the height of 80 feet, leads many to suppose that it is entirely artificial. Palmer Lake in addition to being a place of great beauty, is a natural curiosity, poised as it is, exactly on tin- summit of the "divide,"' a spur of the outlying range of the Rockies extending eastward into the great plains and from the crest of this summit the waters divide flowing northward into the Platte, which empties into the Missouri, and southward into the Arkansas as it wends its way to the Mississippi. Red-roofed picturesque cottages nestle here and there among the hills, gayly painted boats float gracefully upon the bright blue waters, and on either hand rugged peaks, pine clad and broken by castellated rocks, rise into a sky whose cerulean hue is reflected in the placid waters of the lake. Excellent hotel and livery establishments furnish good accommodations for sojourners. TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 1 9 Glen Park, an assembly ground modeled after the famous Chautauqua, and destined to become equally as popular in the West as its prototype in th< is only half a mile beyond Palmer Lake. Obje< tsof natural interest are abundant and the walks and drives to Glen D'eau, Bellview Point, ben Lomond, the An lied Rocks and the canons and glens adjacent afford material for enjoyment in the seeing and for many pleasant memories. One hundred and fifty acres are com- prised in the town site. The park is at the foot of the Rocky Mountain Range, and is sheltered at the rear by a towering cliff 2,000 feet high, and on the two sides by small spurs of the range. A noble growth of large pines is scattered over the Park. A skillful landscape engineer has taken advantage of every natural beauty and studied the best topographical effect, in laying out the streets, parks, reservoirs, drives, walks, trails, and lookout points. It is a spot that must be seen to be appre- c iated, and every visitor, whose opinion has been learned, has come away captivated. There are building sites for all tastes. Some have a grand lookout, taking in a sweep of the valley for a distance of 50 miles, with the fountain in Palmer Lake and the beautiful lake itself in view. Elephant Rock, Table Mountain, the town of Monument, the railroad trains from both ways f or over an hour before reaching the station can be seen. Others have pretty vistas, partlv hidden by the pine branches, promises, so to speak of grand views, but not so ambitious as the first. Still others are sylvan nooks where the shades are deepest and the murmur of the cool waters of the babbling brooks makes music forever. Monument. The five miles ride from Palmer Lake to Monument is interest- ing. On the left are giant upthrusts of brilliant red rocks castellated in shape and reaching an altitude of two and three hundred feet. The town takes its name from the creek which flows near, and the creek is so designated from the curious monu- mental forms of rock alonr its course. To the right is the Front Range of the Rockies, which the road parallels from Denver to Pueblo, and near the center of this stretch of one hundred and twenty miles, stands Pike's Peak. Agriculture and pastoral industries are tributary to Monument. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 56 miles. Elevation, 6,974 feet.) Two miles beyond is Borst, and four miles further Husted, both men' side tracks for convenient shipping of cattle and produce. Monument Park is reached by private conveyance from Edgerton Station — distance from Denver, 67 miles. This valley is quite remarkable for the very fantastic forms into which the action of air and water, through long reaches of time, have worn the sandstone rocks, forming grotesque groups of figures that very generally keep their broad brimmed sombreros, formed of iron stained cap-rock. Visitors to Monument Park obtain a line view of Pike's Peak and Cheyenne Moun- tain Range. A hotel in the Park is open at all times for the accommodation of guests, and can furnish saddlehorses and carriages on premises. The grotesque group of figures into which the cream-colored sandstone rocks have been worn, some of them resembling human forms, have been given quaint, descriptive titles, viz.: Dutch Wedding, Quaker Meeting, I. one Sentinel, Dutch Parliament, Vulcan's Anvil, and Workshop, Romeo and Juliet, Necropolis or Silent City, The Duchess, Mother Judy, and Colonnade; all of these and many others too numerous to mention are within easy walking distance to "The Pines." The Park is a favorite resort and Colorado Springs. Residence City and Health Resort. Population, 25,000. Distance from Denver 75 Miles. Elevation, 5,992 feet. TO THE GOLDEX GA TE. 21 has comfortable accommodations for guests. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 67 miles. Elevation, 6,354 feet.) Many of the most influential business men of Colorado have their residence in Colorado Springs. No more delightful home city can be found than this. Mansions and cottages of the highest architectural beauty abound, and the society is composed of cultivated and wealthy people. The town was originally laid out as a health resort, and while it still maintains its superiority in this respect, has grown beyond that single characteristic, and is now a thriving commercial place, in addition to being a favorite residence city. The town is sheltered on the west by the range of mountains with Pike's Peak in the center, on the east by blufTs, on the north by the spur of the mountains called the "Divide, " and on the southwest by Chey- enne Mountain. The streets arc unusually wide, one hundred feet, and the avenues are 160 feet broad. Trees line both sides of the streets, and on Nevada Avenue, the central street of the city, there are six rows of trees, two on each side and two down the center. Water for irrigation is brought into the town by means of a winding canal, and cold, clear water, for domestic uses, is conducted from mountain sources in iron pipes. The pres- sure is such that no fire engines are necessarv, the water being forced from hydrants to the tops of the tallest buildings. Monument Creek flows west of the town, and the Fon- taine qui Bouille to the south, where the two streams form a junction. The scenery around Colorado Springs Is of a very inter- esting and attractive character. The hotels of Colorado Springs arc noted for their excel- lence; special attention being paid to the entertainment of tourists. There arc am- ple accommodations and of different grades to suit all tastes and pockets. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad has a very handsome stone depot, erected in accordance with good taste and correct architecture. The plains to the cast and the mountains to the west give unlimited variety. Cheyenne Canon, Austin's Bluffs, Crystal Park, Broadmoor, Cameron's Cone Monument Park, and Manitou, with its environs, are all within the radius of nine miles, and accessible by trolley lines. Cheyeillie Mountain. It is impossible to contemplate the grandeur of Cheyenne's bold outlines and great massiveness, and to become in the least familiar with its ever- varying play of light and shadow, without acknowledging the striking beauty of this noble mountain. From Colorado Springs, a superb view of its front is seen. Looking at the mountain it will be observed that at almost the nearest point, in reality four miles distant, the base of the mountain is deeply deft by two yawning chasms, the outer rocks of which present sharp, jagged points. These clefts are, respectively, the North and South Cheyenne Canons. They certainly should be visited by every traveler who has an eye for the beautiful. On the eastern RAINBOW FALLS- TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 23 side of Cheyenne Mountain, and accessible from South Cheyenne Canon, is the grave of the well-known author and poet, "II. II." The direct road from Manitou takes the tourist a distance of eight miles, turns off to the southward from tin- road to Colorado Springs, on the top of the hill half a mile from the town; they 1 an also be reached by making a detour of one and a half miles through Colorado Springs, and following the continuation of Nevada avenue to the southward. Either road is pleasant, and the drive or ride is one replete with interest, and abounding in attractive scenery. An electric car line connects Colorado Springs with the foot of the mountain and the canons. Broadmoor. Nestling under the shadow of Cheyenne Mountain lies the famous Broadmoor resort. Connected with Colorado Springs and Manitou by an electric railway, and therefore easy of access from cither of these places, this beau- tiful spot, with its fine casino, lake, drives, etc., is one of the many attractions sur- rounding the Western Spa. Colorado City. This town, once the seat of the State capital, is two miles west of Colorado Springs, on the Manitou branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Located in this thriving little town are extensive railroad repair shops, three large cyanide ore reduction works for handling the output of the famed Cripple Creek mines, making it one of the principal cities of the State. (Population, 3,500. Distance from Denver, 77 miles. Elevation, 6,110 feet.) The one resort of all the West is certainly Manitou. The attractions of this watering place have secured for it fame, and fame secures for it largely increasing patronage each year. No resort has had a more rapid growth than this, and none has more truly deserved its prosperity. There are more places of extraordinary interest to visit in the vicinity of Manitou than can be found contiguous to any other resort in the world. It is situated six miles from Colorado Springs, immediately at the foot of Pike's Peak. Here are the famous effervescent soda and iron springs which in an early day gave the name of "Springs" to the town of Colorado Springs. A branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad unites the two plat es, over which trains run daily with sufficient frequency to accommodate the most exacting. A trolley line also connects the three towns of Colorado Springs, Colorado City, and Manitou. There are a thousand ways in which to enjoy one's self in Manitou. A favorite pleasure is that of riding. The saddle horses are excellent. Comfortable saddles for ladies, and well-trained horses are furnished by all the livery stables at reasonable prices. A burro (donkey) brigade is a feature for the special benefit of the children, a careful guide taking the little ones for a ride every morning. Carriage riding and excursions on foot are excellent meansof diversion. Following is a partial list of places of interest near Manitou, with the distan< e in miles from town attai hed : Manitou Grand Caverns 2 Cave of the Winds x Ute Pass and Rainbow Falls 1 ', Red Canon 1 C rystal Park 3 MANITOU. Watering Place, Mineral Springs and Health Resort. Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 80 miles. Elevation, 6,3i8 feet. Garden of the Gods 3 G len Eyrie r TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 2 5 Summit of Pikes, by rail n Summit of Pikes, by trail i? Seven Lakes, by horse trail o Seven Lakes, by carriage road 25 North Cheyenne Canon gl South Cheyenne Canon o Broadmoor Casino, by electric railway 7 In addition to these well-known localities there are scores of canons, caves, .water-falls, and charming nooks which the sojourner for health or pleasure can seek out for himself. The village is thronged with visitors throughout the sum- mer months; it is some- what cooler and less dry than Colorado Springs in the summer, and warmer in winter. The springs all contain more or less soda, and some iron. They are peculiarly adapted for the dyspepsia of the consump- tive, and the Ute Iron Spring is especially remark- able for its blood-making qualities. For the pleasure seeker and the invalid, Manitou is one of the most satisfactory resorts in the State. During the season the hotels are filled with guests from all parts of the Union. Society is represented by many of its best people, the evenings are made merry with hops and social gatherings, and the days delightful with drives and rides and walks among the myriads of at- tractions this place affords. T h e C ripple Creek Short Line. From Colorado Springs to Cripple Creek and Victor runs the recently con- structed Colorado Springs & Cripple Creek District Railway, primarily built into the marvelously rich min- ing region of Cripple Creek as a means of hauling out T HE SEVEN FALLS, CHEYENNE CANON. TO THE GOLDEN GA TE 27 its gold and silver ores, but more noted perhaps on account of its most astoundinglv beautiful scenery. The ride of 45 miles from Colorado Springs to Cripple (reck District is one continuous panorama of nature's most gorgeous mountain and canon scenery, condensing, as it were, the glories of the world within the compass of a two and a half hours' trip. It starts where the beauty begins, it chooses tin- most lovely spots as its pathway, and seems to lead us to a very high mountain apart, whence we may behold the glories of the world. TheGreat Gold Camp of Cripple Creek, Statistics are usually drv reading, but the record of this wonderful district is so remarkable that a few figures will prove interesting. But twelve years ago gold was first discovered here in pay- ing quantities. In that brief period it has Income one of the greatest gold pro- ducing regions in the world, and in rapid development and in the richness of its ores, nothing like it has ever been known before. In twelve years the cattle ranges have been transformed into a populous district with 60,000 people. The production to date approximates $136,000,000 in value. In 1002 it was $22,000,000. The dividends paid to date amount to over $26,000,000, nearly $3,000,000 having been paid in 1^02. Before Colorado had acquired a name. Pike's Peak was the landmark of the Indian, the trapper, and the explorer. In later times it was the beacon by which the adventurous gold-hunters steered their prairie schooners into the wonderful and mysterious West; now it has become the goal of those in search of the grand and beautiful in Nature, the enjoy- ments of an attractive summer resort, or the resto ration of impaired health. The mountain is one of great beauty, and never entirely discrowned of snow. The Cog Wheel Railroad to the summit of Pike's Peak is the most novel railway in the world. When it reaches its objective point above the clouds, at a height of 14,147 feet above sea-level, it renders almost insignificant, by comparison, the famous cogway up Mt. Washington and the incline railway up the Rhigi in Switzerland. From its station in Manitou. just above the Iron Springs, to the station on the summit of Pike's Peak, the Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is just eight and three-quarters miles in length. The cost of construction of the road was a half million of dollars. While it could have been built for many thousands of dollars less by putting in wooden bridges and trestles, light ties and light rails, those in charge of the building of the road would not con- sent to the use of any flimsy material for the sake of the saving of any sum of money — a substantial road that would insure absolute safety being economical, as well as a guarantee for putting the road from the start on a paying basis. The railroad closely follows Ruxton Creek, generally at an elevation of two or three hundred feet above it; the sides of the Glen are clothed with beautiful pines and spruces. Some very pretty falls are passed on the way, two of whii h are named respectively, the Shelter and the Minnehaha. Stupendous granite boulders are in places piled up in chaotic confusion over the stream, frequently hiding it from view. Two prominent ones are plainly visible from Manitou, and are appropriately named Gog and Magog. One of the most < harming features during the ascent is the oppor- tunity afforded for exquisite views of the world below, on looking back through the pine trees with the far-stretching plains glowing in the sun and forming a golden horizon. It goes without saying that the view from the summit is grand beyond description. To any one accustomed to mountain climbing, no guide is required in PIKES PEAK. Colorado's Landmark. Elevation, 14,147 feet. PUEBLO. Commercial and Manufacturing City. Population, 45,000. Distance from Denver, 120 miles. Elevation, 4,672 feet. Dining Station. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 29 making the ascent of Pike's Peak, as the trail is good and well defined, and there is a station on the summit where visitors ran ob ain food and shelter. Fountain. A pretty little town on the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek, fou miles south of Colorado Springs. The town has taken a new growth within ret enl years, and bring surrounded by a good grazing and agricultural country, has a fair prospect of permanent improvement. (Population, :oo. Distance from Den- ver, 88 miles. Elevation, 5,568 feet.) There are between Fountain and Pueblo, side-track stations as follows: Buttes Wigwam, Pinon, Eden and Dundee. These places an- useful to the railroad and convenient for the residents of the surrounding country, but they possess little 01 no interest for the traveler. All the way from Denver to Pueblo the traveler has tin Front Range of mountains on his right, to the west, while on his left are the great plains. Below Colorado Springs the country is very fertile, and good crops art grown wherever water for irrigation can be procured. "The Pittsburg of the West" is a title often conferred on Pueblo, and it is the name which pleases its citizens best, and which comes the nearest to expressing the salient characteristics of the town. It is a live city, full of enter] irisi and push, and it has been favored by Nature, both in the matter of its immediate situation ami of its surroundings. Plenty of coal is found not fifty miles away, iron ore is not more distant, and on the mesa, just south of the town, is Minnequa, the site of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Works, one of the largest plants of this character in the world. There are also many great smelters for the reduction of gold and silver ores, together with a large number of manufactories, planing mills flouring mills, machine shops, etc. The city of Pueblo is surrounded by great stretches of rich agricultural land, which in places here and there is under a high state of cultivation. But it is only here and there that cultivation shows its elevating work. Tourists wonder at this, and cannot divine why, if the land is rich, it should lie fallow and uncultivated. The answer is easy to find. All this land is arid. Crops will not grow without water, and the rains of heaven are not half copious enough to promote the growth of vegetation. Where the land is watered by irri- gation it is as fertile as the valley of the Nile, where it is not irrigated it is nearly as sterile as the desert of Sahara. This condition of affairs will not long remain. Storage reservoirs to conserve the winter anil spring rainfall and snow deposits are in course of construction, also a series of great canals to be taken from the Arkansas river to carry the water on to the waiting land. In the mean time this uncultivated country, which appears so barren, supports tens of thousands of sheep and cattle. The short, dry, crisp, curled buffalo-grass, whii h looks about as succulent as shav- ings, ai tually contains great nutritive qualities, and if cattle or sheep < an get enough of it they grow fat and command the highest price in the markets. Pastoral and agricultural interests contribute to Pueblo's prosperity, live trunk lines of railroad center here, and manufactories increase the business of the town. Many people of great wealth make Pueblo their home and do business here-. Handsome man- sions, pretty cottages, large business blocks, and fine stocks of all kirnb of merchan- dise testify to the good taste and enterprise of Pueblo's citizens. It is admitted on all sides that this must of necessity become the leading manufacturing town between the Missouri River and the Pacific coast, and the manufacturers in the East TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 31 who contemplate extending or removing their works, arc now carefully studying the resources of Pueblo. Pueblo is well provided with hotels, one of them repre- senting an expense of $250,000 in its erection. All grades of excellence can be found among the hostelries, and the traveler will find no difficulty in securing accommodations suited to his tastes. Through Pueblo, the traveler passes to reach Sante Fe, Espaiiola, Durango, and Silverton on the south, Canon City, Salida, Leadville, Glenwood Springs, Aspen, Grand Junction, Salt Lake City, and Ogden on west en route to San Francisco; and Gunnison, Montrose, and Ouray, via the narrow gauge line over Marshall Pass. Parnassus Springs. A pleasant drive of twelve miles, southwest of Pueblo, takes us to Parnassus Springs, among the foothills of the Greenhorn Mountains. These waters — muriated alkaline — have been tested with marked benefit, espe- cially in cases characterized as gastric complaints. Carlile Spring's are situated twenty miles above Pueblo, on the Arkansas River. These purgative alkaline waters are as yet unimproved, but give good prom- ise of becoming popular on account of their medicinal qualities. Clark's Magnetic Mineral Springs. This celebrated spring in the city of Pueblo has recently been improved by the erection of a large bath-house and fine hotel, fitted up with all the latest improvements and conveniences for bathing. UNITED STATES MINT, DENVER. PUEBLO TO OGDEN o^^v^as T'R O M Denver to Pueblo, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, the traveler has followed the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains and kept his course mainly to the south. At Pueblo, however, he turns his face westward, and this will be his outlook, in the main, until he finds himself standing on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, watching the descent of the sun into the wilderness of waters. The country between Pueblo and Florence is fine agricultural land, being the bottoms of the Arkansas River, up whose course the railroad follows until Salida is reached, ninety-seven miles from Pueblo. Back from the river rise high buttes of sandstone worn into fantastic shapes by the action of the elements. Banded with a great variety of colors and dotted here and there by groups of pines, the scene is one of much interest and adds an element of variety to the journey, which is exceed- ingly grateful to the traveler. The river bottoms are irrigated by means of ditches taken from the river, and the result is crops of marvelous growth and yield. One interesting and peculiar feature is the frequent occurrence of the ancient Egyptian water-wheels suspended in the current of the Arkansas. This method of securing water for irrigation is rarely observed in Colorado. This valley of the Arkansas is also a good fruit country, and grapes and apples grow in abundance and of fine quality. Florence. This town is in the center of the petroleum fields of Colorado. Glancing from the car window the traveler will here see the tall derricks of the well machinery and the tanks for storing, together with the tank cars for transporting the oil, and several large refineries. There are a very large number of wells already in operation and more are being sunk. The oil is used for lubrication, fuel, and illumination, and gives the best of satisfaction. Florence is the junction point of the Denver & Rio Grande and the Florence & Cripple Creek Railroads; the latter line having been completed and opened for business to Colorado's famous Gold Camp — Cripple Creek — on July 4, 1894. This new railroad has made this bustling little city one of the foremost in the state. (Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 152 miles. Elevation, 5,199 feet.) The Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad. This railroad, 40 miles in length, was built for the purpose of opening up to com- merce the vastly rich gold fields of Cripple Creek and vicinity. The principal points on the line are Arequa, Anaconda, Victor, and Cripple Creek itself, all of which are heavy shippers of rich gold ores. The scenery on this line from beginning to end is of a most beautiful character, canons and gorges, mountain peaks and passes, valleys and vales — combined in a panorama of startling loveliness. The town of Cripple Creek has advanced with the prosperity of the mining 32 CRIPPLE CREEK. Great Gold Mining Town. Population, 15,000. Elevation, 9,400 feet. Distance from Denver, 103 Miles. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 33 district of which it is the center. From a camp of a few w len shanties and cents, a few years ago, it has risen to a well-built, well-defined mining town. Brick buildings are being erected in the business center and dwellings of a permanent character are dotting the slopes around the town. There is a stability about it which is most encouraging. The hotel accommodations are first-class, considering the age of the town. The population is about 15,000. There is an excellent water service, the supply being piped from the mountains above, and the town is peaceably and well governed. The advent of the railroads, the greal attention being paid to gold mining, and the immense quantities of ore that are being uncovered in the mining district all go to show that Cripple Creek is but entering upon an era of great prosperity. The Cripple Creek Gold Mining 1 District is situated near the western base of Pike's Peak, at an elevation of 9,400 feet. It consists of rolling hills, sparsely wooded, and small valleys and gulches. Lying a little south of west from Colorado Springs at a distance of about twenty miles in an air line, seventy miles from Denver, and forty-four miles from Pueblo, down to 1S91 it was to all intents and purposes exclusively a pastoral district. It is true that for many years past, in fact ever since 1S59, prospectors have, from time to time, been over the ground and brought back samples which demonstrated the presence of gold. How- ever, no serious efforts were made toward development, though some exploration work was done, as for instance in 1874 when a tunnel was driven in Arequa Creek, and again in 1879 in Poverty Gulch. In these, as in other instances, prospectors were unfortunate and just missed the ore which is now being profitably mined. In February, 1891, some Colorado Springs men determined upon a serious attempt to test the capabilities of the district, taking up several claims which promised so well that, during the following spring and summer, many prospectors flocked in, and by the close of the year some 2,000 people were there, really deter- mined to prove its worth. The camp is now well under way and during 1892 its progress was rapid. Work was mainly confined to the location and establishment of claims, and testing their value. In the course of that year some ten or a dozen mines became regular shippers of ore, and their output reached a total of some $600,000. Since the period of original discovery progress has been remarkably rapid. Numerous new claims have been located and the number of regular shipping mines has increased to nearly one thousand, while many others not actual shippers have pay ore in sight, and the total output has increased to $18,291,229 for the year of 1902. Coal Creek Braiiell. A branch line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad runs from Florence to Coal Creek, a distance of six miles, where excellent and extensive coal mines are in operation. This line is one of great commercial importance, opening one of the most extensive coal fields in the State. Coal Creek is at the terminus of this branch of the line. It is well supplied with stores and shops of all kinds and does a thriving business. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 155 miles. Elevation, 5,360 feet.) This city is rightly named, for it stands at the entrance to the greatest canon penetrated by any railroad. The Grand Canon of the Arkansas is acknowledged by a universal consensus of opinion to br one of CANON CITY. Health and Pleasure Resort. Business Center. Distance from Denver, 160 Miles. ^o^ulaiion, 5,500. Elevation, 5,343 feet. 34 OVER THE RANGE the great wonders of the world. The Arkansas River, which rises in Fremont Park, one hundred and seventy miles to the northwest of Canon City, here breaks its way through the Front Range of mountains and enters upon its uneventful course to the Mississippi. The town is one of the oldest in Colorado, and is essen- tially a place of pleasant homes. It is the county-seat of Fremont County, and is the seat of the State Penitentiary. Its warm and equable climate makes it a favorite resort for invalids. In ad- dition to its pleasant cli- mate it possesses valuable mineral springs, both hot and cold. The water of the cold springs is almost icy in temperature, and strongly impregnated with soda. The cold springs are situ- ated just above the peniten- tiary. The scenery round about Canon City is ex- ceedingly attractive. The drive of about twelve miles to the brink of the Royal (lorge and the view of that wonderful chasm from the Lop, which can there be ob^ nined, are experiences never to be forgotten. The town and its contiguous country possess the finest orchards in the State, and the culti- vation of fruit is the leading industry. The city is well built, has handsome busi- ness blocks, and comfort- able and elegant residences. The Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad has a terminal here, as well as at Florence, and tourists en route to the Cripple Creek district will find the change of trains at this point fully as convenient as at Florence. The Hot Spring's. Having left Canon City and traversed a mile to the westward, the traveler will observe to his left a picturesque, many-gabled building, across the river, a rustic foot-bridge leading thereto. This is the Royal Gorge Hotel, situated at the Hot Springs. The hotel has excellent accommodations for guests, and is a favorite resort for health and pleasure seekers. The springs are recommended by physicians as excellent in cases of cutaneous and blood diseases. Prof. Loew's analysis of the waters is as follows: Grains in a Gallon of Water. Temperature of 104 Fah. Chloride of Sodium 18.2 Sulphate of Soda 79.3 Carbonate of Soda 73.2 Carbonate of Lime 33.5 Carbonate of Magnesia i.t.8 Lithia Trace. 217.0 CANON OF THE GRAND. THE ROYAL GORGE. ROYAL GORGE. Distance from Denver, 163 miles. Greatest Height of Walls, 2,627 feet. Length, 7 miles. 36 OVER THE RANGE Baths have been provided at the hotel and are supplied with all the modern conveniences. Just beyond Canon City the railway enters the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, the narrowest portion of which is known as the Royal Gorge. When first examined it seemed impossible that a railway could ever be constructed through this stupen- dous canon to Leadville and the west. There was scarcely room for the river alone, and granite ledges blocked the path with their mighty bulk. In time, however, these obstruc- tions were blasted away, a roadbed closely following the contour of the cliffs was made, and to-day the canon is a well-used thoroughfare. But its grandeur still remains. After entering its depths, the train moves slowly along the side of the Arkansas, and around projecting shoulders of dark-hued granite, deeper and deeper into the heart of the range. The crested crags grow higher, the river madly foams along its rocky bed, and anon the way be- comes a mere fissure through the heights. Far above the road the sky forms a deep blue arch of light; but in the Gorge hang dark and somber shades which the sun's rays have never penetrated. The place is a measureless gulf of air, with solid walls on either side. Here the granite cliffs are a thousand feet high, smooth and unbroken by tree or shrub; and there a pinnacle soars skyward for thrice that dis- tance. No flowers grow, and the birds care not to penetrate the solitudes. The river, somber and swift, breaks the awful stillness with its roar. Soon the cleft becomes still more narrow, the treeless cliffs higher, the river closer confined, and where a long iron bridge hangs suspended from the smooth walls, the grandest portion of the canon is reached. Man becomes dwarfed and dumb in the sublime scene, and Nature exhibits the power she possesses. The crags menacingly rear their heads above the daring intruders, and the place is like the entrance to some infernal region. Escaping from the Gorge, the narrow valley of the upper Arkan- sas is traversed, with the striking serrated peaks of the Sangre de Cristo close at hand on the west, until Salida is reached. Parktlale. This is the point where tourists who desire only to see the famous Royal Gorge disembark from the west-bound train, to return again to Pueblo, Colorado Springs, or Denver. (Population nominal. Distance from Den- ver, 172 miles. Elevation 5,800 feet.) Beautiful Mountain View. Emerging from the canon, a most beautiful mountain view is obtained; to the left stretch the serrated summits of the Sangre de Cristo Range, while to the front and right are the towering peaks of the Collegiate Mountains. TVxa s Creek. This is the junction point of the West Cliff branch with the main line. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 185 miles. Elevation, 6,210 feet.) West Cliff" Branch. Realizing the vast importance of the Wet Mountain Valley as a mining and agricultural region, the Denver & Rio Grande in 1901 constructed a branch line extending from Texas Creek station to West Cliff, Silver Cliff, and Rosita, heretofore reached by stage lines. This branch is but another addition to the already large number of paying and interesting branches. The scenery on the new line is equal to that on the main line, with gorges and passes, mountains and valleys, difficult feats of engineering, and altogether well worthy a side trip from the main line. 38 OVER THE RANGE THE ROYAL GORGE. West Cliff. This town is beautifully situated in the Wet Mountain Valley, surrounded by a fine grazing and agricultural country. The view is a grand one, lofty mountains bounding the entire circle of the horizon. A mile from the station is Silver Cliff, which after the discovery of the Racine Boy mine, was the center of a tremendous rush of miners, resulting in several other great discov- eries, but the large mines were few in number and the prospectors left for other fields. The good mines are still productive and add their quota to the prosperity of the valley. West Cliff is the shipping point for Silver Cliff and Rosita, being the railroad station. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 210 miles. Eleva- tion, 7,861 feeO TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 39 Wellsville Hot Spring's are on our left across the Arkansas River, six miles before Salida is reached. Here is a natural warm plunge hath, the waters of which are strongly impregnated with medicinal qualities. The Wellsville Springs are a favorite resort, and are made the objective point for many pleasant excursion parties. This prosperous town is situated on the right bank of the Arkansas River, and is the converging point of the four great divisions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The first division being the line to the east; the second is the main line to the west via Leadville, Glenwood Springs, and Grand Junction; the third is the narrow gauge line to Grand Junction over Marshall Pass and via Gunnison and Montrose, and the fourth is the southern extension to Alamosa, Durango, Silverton, and Santa Fe. In addition to its importance as a railway point, Salida is admirably situated for smelting purposes. One large modern smelting plant is in operation, one under construction, and a third in con- templation. These industries will largely enhance the importance of this growing SALIDA. Health and Pleasure Resort and Business Center. Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 217 miles. Elevation, 7,050 feet. Eating Station. THE PORTALS city. The view of the mountains from Salida is especially grand. The Collegiate Range rises to the west with Yale, Harvard, and Princeton Peaks in plain view crowned with perpetual snow, while to the south stands the Sangre de Cristo Range, and in the southwest tower Ouray and Shaveno. The beauty of its situation, the near proximity to hot medicinal springs, the wonderful salubrity of ; ts climate, make Salida an extremely popular health and pleasure resort. Tributary to the town are mines of copper, silver, gold, iron, and coal; great quantities of charcoal are burned near Salida, and the agricultural and pastoral interest are of great extent. The trip from Salida to Grand Junction and Ogden abounds in interest for the tourist. It leads one through a most varied country, and presents to the inspec- tion of the traveler almost every variety of industry, from the agriculture and 4° OVER THE RANGE stock raising of the Arkansas, Eagle, and Grand River valleys, to the gold and silver mining of Leadville and Aspen, and it may be said, in passing, that Leadville and Aspen are two of the greatest mining camps in the world, and well worthv of a visit. The scenery after Salida is passed grows in interest with each mile of advance. We are steaming up the left bank of the Arkansas River, and are crossing the western border of the Great South Park. The mountains capped with snow shut us in throughout the whole circle of the horizon. The Collegiate Range, including the peaks of Yale, Harvard, and Princeton to our left, and beyond, the great volcano-made cones of Ouray and Shaveno, which tower above Marshall Pass. Away off to the right are the Kenosha Hills. Agriculture and stock raising are the main industries of South Park, and the ranchmen find these pursuits of an exceedingly lucrative character. A number of small stations are passed beyond Salida as follows: Brown's Canon, Hecla Junction, Nathrop, and Midway. BrOWll's CailOli. After passing the station of Brown's Canon, fine views of the Sangre de Cristo peaks present themselves close by, and then the rocks are heaped up again into the grand defile of Brown's Canon, where one of our illustrations was made. Buena Vista. Buena Vista is the county seat of Chaffee County. The town was incorporated in the month of December, 1879, and, for its age, is a won- derfully thriving place. It is beautifully situated on the Arkansas River, thirty-six m ; les below Leadville, and 242 miles from Denver. The town is quite an impor- tant station, and is surrounded by good mines of gold and silver, fine pasture lands for stock and many improved ranches. The state reformatory is situated here. The city has an abundance of pure water, fine shade trees, churches, schools, stores, etc. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver, 240 miles. Elevation, 7,967 fee,t.) Cottonwood Spring's. The Cottonwood Hot Springs have long been famous in Colorado for their curative properties. They were the resort of the Indians before the whites took possession of the country, and have since been greatly improved and made accessible to invalids and tourists. The springs are situated six miles from Buena Vista, whence a stage line conveys passengers arriving on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to the springs. For cases of inflammatory rheumatism, lead poisoning, and diseases of the blood, these waters possess remark- able curative properties. The scenery of the valley in which the springs are situated is of great loveliness, the Collegiate Range of mountains forming an imposing background. Fine trout fishing can be found in ten minutes' walk up and down Cottonwood Creek, and the neighboring hills abound in game. There are good accommodations here for tourists and invalids. Mount Princeton Hot Springs are located nine miles from Buena Vista. There are about forty of these springs, with a flow of hot water aggregating 1,000,000 gallons daily. These waters are especially beneficial for rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, paralysis, etc. The temperature is 130 F. The climate and scenery are superior, and good hotel accommodations will be found. After leaving Buena Vista the following small stations are passed: Americus, Riverside, and Pine Creek. Granite. At this point the stage line to Twin Lakes connects with the trains. Placer mining by huge hydraulic systems are in full operation and have been successfully worked for the past twenty years. (Population, 300. Elevation, 8,940 feet. Distance from Denver, 257 miles.) These most beautiful mountain tarns are best reached by a seven miles stage ride TWIN LAKES. Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 9,367 feet. 42 OVER THE RANGE from Granite Station. The drive is in itself a delightful experience, and the lakes prove a most charming culmination. You find yourself in a little valley about seven miles in area. Around you on all sides, looming up grand and precipitous, are snow-capped mountain peaks, each of them towering fully a mile high, from where you stand, completely walling you in from the outer world. These mountains are Mount Elbert, La Plata, and Twin Peaks, each of them higher than the famous Pike's Peak, Lake Mountain, Mount Sheridan, and Park Range. They are all more or less covered, up to the timber line, with fir and spruce trees, the fragrance of which perfumes the atmosphere, and, owing to the rarified air, the tops of the peaks, on which rest the eternal snows, seem so near that you think you could almost throw a stone to their summits, though in fact the length of that very uphill stonethrow would be considerably more than a mile. For about three-fourths of its area the valley is occupied by the lakes, and to an ordinary observer it is plain that these lakes were formerly one and occupied the whole valley up to the very foot of the mountains. At present, however, they are twins — Siamese twins for they are connected by a mountain stream, which, as well as the lakes themselves, abound in the most delicious mountain trout that ever nibbled at a hook or smoked on a platter. Now let us row out into the middle of the upper lake. It seems as if you were in the center of a mighty amphitheater, the arena of which is water, the sloping sides fir-clad mountains, and the roof a great bowl inverted, painted a gorgeous blue, and lightly resting on the snow-capped mountains. The sizzling dweller of cities may ask what is the thermometer here? I do not know. I never saw one here. These people have no more use for a thermometer than a toad has for a pocketbook. Old Sol rises bright and fierce-looking every morning in an Italian sky, but his rays are so tempered by the breezes from the mountains that by the time they reach the valley they are just pleasantly warm and exhilarating. But there is one thing his rays will do, and city folk would better beware of them if they do not want to peel off their outer cuticle, they will sunburn as effectually as if conveyed through the medium of a burning glass; this is owing to the rarity of the atmosphere. Flannels can and ought to be worn here every day, and a person sitting reading or writing indoors for an hour or so, in a room where there is no fire, and while the sun is shining brightly outside, will find the cold stealing up his nether limbs. Returning to Granite and resuming the journey, the following small stations are passed: Twin Lakes, Hayden, Gordon, and Malta. At Malta the main line turns to the left, while a branch line continues on to Leadville. Suburban trains are operated between Malta and Leadville, and we will take advantage of this service and go to the "Great Carbonate Camp." This wonderful Cloud City first became known to fame in 1859 as California Gulch, one of the richest placer camps in Colorado. From 1859 to 1S64, $5,ooOjCoo in gold-dust were washed from the ground of this gulch. The camp was afterwards nearly abandoned, and it was not until 1S76 that the carbonate beds of silver were discovered. Immediately after this discovery a great rush en- sued to the carbonate camp, which was named Leadville, and the population rose from a nominal number to 30,000. Leadville is the county-seat of Lake County. It is the fourth city in size in Colorado, and the greatest and most TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 43 unique carbonate mining camp in the world. The visitor to Leadville is irre- sistibly reminded of the words of Joaquin Miller: "Colorado, rare Colorado! Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the LEADVILLE. The " Great Carbonate Camp." Population, 20,000. Elevation, 10,200 feet. Distance from Denver, 277 miles. Rocky Mountains, her feet in the brown grass; the boundless plains for a playground; she is sel on a hill before the world, and the air is very clear, so that all may set' her well." The city is lighted by gas and electricity; has telephonic communication with surrounding points; has the usual conven- iences and luxuries of cities of corresponding size, and in all respects ranks as one of the greatesl cities of this great State. Leadville is one of the most in- teresting cities in the world to the tourist. It abounds in scenes of a novel and char- acteristic nature, and presents views of life entirely foreign to the conventional. Min- ing methods are here fully illustrated in every form, from lode mining to hydraulic and sluicing work. Leadville has a handsome theater, the Tabor Opera House, having a seating capacity of 1,000. The scenery around Leadville is magnificent. h is walled in on all sides by towering mountains whose summits are crowned with eternal snow. Occupying so high an altitude, the effect is remarkable, and tourists can find no more striking nor interesting scenes than those presented by Leadville and its weird and wonderful surroundings. Leadville is well supplied with good hotels. Livery accommodations are first-class, and the boulevard affords one of the finest drives in the State. Situated on the front of Mount Massive, at the mouth of Colorado Gulch, and distant five miles from Leadville, are the popular Soda Springs and Evergreen Lakes. The boulevard, a carefully constructed drive, one hundred feet in width, and as smooth as a race track, gives access to the springs and lakes, a stage connecting with Leadville twice a day. The springs are strongly impregnated with soda, and are of a highly medicinal character. There is excellent trout fishing within a few minutes' walk of the springs, pleasant drives and rides are numerous, ?\nd placer as well as lode mining are in progress in near proximity, easily accessible to the inspection of the tourist. Near the Evergreen Lakes is located an extensive United States Fish Hatchery, under the direction of the government, and from it millions of trout fry are yearly planted in all the streams of the Slate of Colorado. As a business point, Leadville is recognized as among the first in the Slate; with its large population, great smelting works, and vast mining industry, it cannot help commanding the attention of business men and investors. Chrysolite Extension. This branch of the Denver & Rio Grande System extends from Leadville to all the principal mines of the famous Leadvil'e mining district. Xo passenger trains are operated thereon, but the net-work of trai ks zigzagging up the mountain sides, with marvelous switchbacks, sharp < urves, and heavy grades is extremely interesting from an engineering standpoint. Between Leadville and Tennessee Pass are the following unimportant stations: Leadville Junction, Keeldar, and Crane's Park. Tennessee PaSS. Rising along a tortuous path cut at a heavy grade, as usual, into the side hills, we mount slowly into Tennessee Pass, which feeds the head of Eagle River on the west side, and one source of the Arkansas on the east side. It is a comparatively low and easy pass, covered everywhere with dense timber, and a wagon road has long been followed through it. Reaching an eleva- *ion of quite 10,240 feet, the train darts into a tunnel half a mile long, and on emerging at the western end, we are on the Pacific slope. There is nothing to be 44 OVER THE RANGE seen except an occasional pile of tics, or a charcoal oven, save that now and then a gap in the hills shows the gray, rough summits of Galena, Homestake, and the other heights that guard the Holy Cross. At each end of the Pass is a little open glade or "park," where settlers have placed their cabins and fenced off a few acres of level ground whereon to cut hay, for nothing else will grow at this great elevation. We can do no better service to tin- tourist than to quote Ernest Ingersoll's description of this famous mountain given in "The Crest of the Continent." He says: "One of the side valleys, coming down to the track at right angles from the southwestward — I think it is Homestake Gulch — leads the eye for a momentary glimpse up through a glorious Alpine avenue to where the cathedral crest of a noble peak pierces the sky. It is a sum- mit that would attract the eye any a here — its feet hidden in verdurous hills, guarded by mighty crags, half-buried in seething clouds, its helmet vertical, frowning, plumed with gleaming snow — MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS. Elevation, 14,176 feet. 'Ay, every inch a "It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, bearing the sacred symbol in such heroic characters as dwarf all human graving, and set on the pinnacle of the world as though in sign of possession forever. The Jesuits went hand in hand with the ( 'hevalier Dubois, proclaiming Christian Gospel in the northern forests; the Puritan brought his Testament to New England; the Spanish banners of victory on the Golden shores of the Pacific were upheld by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Fran- cisco; the frozen Alaskan cliffs resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. Paul. On every side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ, and with all the Sclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered, before any of them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the Cross had been planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured generations, as a sign of glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity, a reminder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our proudest eminence. What matters it whether we write 'God' in the constitution of the United Slates, when here in the sight of all men is inscribed this marvelous testimony to His sovereignty! Shining grandly out of the- pure ether, and above all turbulence of earthly clouds, it says: Humble thyself, () man! Measure thy fiery works at their true insignificance. Uncover thy head and acknowledge thy weakness. Forget not, that as high above thy gilded spires gleams tin- splendor of this ever-living Cross, so are My thoughts above thy thoughts, and My ways above thy ways." Crime's Park is a beautiful park in the mountains at the western foot of Tennessee Pass. Here are to be seen the kilns of charcoal burners, and a wonderful valley and mountain view. Red Cliff CailOn. Just beyond Crane'.- P. irk the railroad enters Red Cliff Canon, a comparatively short but very interesting gorge in the mountains. Red Cliff. This picturesque little town is the county-seat of Eagle County, and the entrepot of a large mining district. The mines of the P.attle Mountain and other districts contribute greatly to the business of the place. Lead- ville, with its smelters, is only 25 miles distant, and this fact is also an element of success among the many which give promise of future prosperity to the town. The scenery around Red Cliff is of the grandest and most beautiful description. To reach the town the traveler makes the ascent and descent of Tennessee Pass, 4 6 OVER THE RANGE EAGLE RIVER CANON. Height of Walls. 2,000 feet. and obtains the bust distant view that can be had cf the famous Mount of the Holy Cross. Just bevond Red Cliff are the wonders of Eagle River Canon. (Popu- lation, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 293 miles. Elevation, 8,608 feet.) Beyond Red Cliff the Eagle River Canon opens to the view at first a comparatively wide expanse, later more narrow, walled in on each side by cliffs of vari-colored rocks, whose lofty and apparently insurmountable summits bear the dark banners of the pine. Admiration and awe at this stupendous work of Nature take possession of the mind, when suddenly these emotions are overshadowed by wonder and almost incredulous surprise at the daring of man, for there above us on the right, perched like the nest of heaven-scaling eagles, rest the habitations of men! There are the shaft houses and abiding places of adventurous miners, who, having climbed these cliffs, pick in hand, have here discovered rich veins of the precious metal, which, being blasted from its matrix, is conveyed to the railroad track 2,000 feet below, by a most ingenious system of tramways and endless steel ropes. There is something very impressive in the sight of these frail cliff-perched dwellings; and the shaft-penetrated, tunnel-pierced peaks suggest irresistibly the fabled cavernous labyrinths of "Kor. " Nowhere can the traveler find a more interesting and instructive illustration of mining methods than is here presented by the shaft-scarred sides of Battle Mountain and the pinna- cle-perched eyries of Eagle River Canon. Milltlll'll. Having passed through the canon, the train brings up at the divisional and eating station at Minturn. At this point is located extensive round houses and repair shops of the railway. (Population, 500. Elevation, 7,825 feet. Distance from Denver, 302 miles.) The Valley Of the Eagle. Leaving Minturn, one enters the Valley of Eagle River. Quieter scenes of pastoral and agricultural achievements follow. Here are comfortable ranch houses surrounded by fertile fields; there are herds of cattle feeding contentedly in natural pastures; while on all sides are seen evidences of peace, prosperity, and plenty. The Eagle River, a beautiful stream, whose pellucid waters do not conceal the bright colored gravel of its bed, meanders through the valley, adding to the beauty of the scene, and carrying with it the prac- tical benefits of irrigation, without which the soil would produce nothing but vege- tation suitable for grazing purposes. The clear, cold water swarms with trout, augmented yearly by additions from the hatchery at Leadville, and here the disciples of old Izaak Walton cannot fail to find am- ple room and verge for plying their gentle craft. In our journey through the valley we pass the fol- lowing stations: Avon, Allenton, Wolcott, Sherwood, Eagle, Gypsum, Dotsero, Shoshone, and Sulphur Springs. Leaving the railroad at Wolcott station, the tourist can go by stage or private conveyance to Steamboat Springs, distant eighty miles, and reached by a most interesting and picturesque route. The road follows up the divide between the Eagle and Grand rivers through a fine grazing country, dotted here and there with beautiful little lakes. The Kokomo and Shcephorn ranges rise to the east, while the Mount of the Ticly Cross STEAMBOAT SPRINGS. Wonderful Hot Springs of Routt County. Population, 500. Elevation, 6,500. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 47 towers to the south. From the summit of the divide a fine view of the Flat Top Mountains can be obtained. Descending, the traveler enters Egeria Park, famous for its lovely scenery, a noted feature of which is the Topanas, or "Sleeping Lion." Finger Rock, 265 feet high from base to top, is also a remark- able landmark. The first stream crossed is the Roaiing Forkof the Yampa River, along which is to be found the finest trout-fishing in Colorado. Elk, deer, bear, and mountain-sheep abound here. Progressing, "Court-Housr Rocks" come into view and beyond is the "Devil's Grave." This curious uplift in the form of a grave, with a great headstone rising from one extremity, is an object of great interest. Pa through Yellow Jacket Pass, the Harrison Bottoms lint- grazing lands arc entered and soon the famous "Steamboat Springs" are reached. The springs send off clouds of steam and its escape makes a peculiar puffing noise, wheni e the name. There are sixty of these springs, embracing those characterized by sulphur, mag nesia, iron, and soda. The springs vary from 156 degrees of heat to cold. The scenery around the Springs is exceedingly attractive. The Storm Mountains, around whose summits storm clouds always gather, Crystal Park, Soda Park, Sheddegger's Park, and Fish Creek Falls are all objects of interest, and within a radius of ten miles. The Fish Creek Falls are three miles east of Steamboat Springs, they are 150 feet in height, and have a width of eighty feet. Those in search of health, the beautiful in nature, or who enjoy the recreation of the sports- man or fisherman cannot do better than make a visit to Steamboat Springs. The town of Steamboat Springs is a thriving village with a wonderful future. It has free public library, public schools, churches, fine water supply, an unusuallv large number of mercantile establishments, banks, planing mill and flouring mills. Good hotel accommodations for sportsmen and health seekers. Returning to the railway after our pilgrimage to Steamboat Springs, we again resume the journey by rail through the Canon of the Grand. Gradually the valley narrows, high bluffs hem us in on the left, the river is close to the track on the right, and its fertile banks suddenly change into a tumbled, twisted, black, and blasted expanse of scoria, the outpouring of some ancient volcano of tremendous activity. The few trees on the hither side of the stream arc also black; an inheritance of lire; the waters under the black banks, and reflecting the blackened trees, take on a swarthy hue — a stygian picture! Just beyond, a distant glimpse of fertile country, and the clear waters of the Eagle are lost in the muddy current of the Grand, and a canon greater in extent and more varied in character than that of the Arkansas opens before us. As the train speeds downward, the mountains on the horizon behind us seem to rise up towards the zenith as though the miracle of creation was being repeated before our eyes. Soon, how- ever, the distant mountains are shut out and only the sky above, the river and track beneath and the cliffs around arc visible; and here begins a panorama, kaleidoscopic in its ever changing forms and colors, the wonder of the one who sees, the despair of the one who wished to tell others what he saw. In places the effect is that of giant Egyptian art and architecture. Vast bastions of granite, strata on strata, rise to a stupendous height, braced against rock masses behind them, infinitely vaster. Suggestions of the Sphinx and of the Pyramids can be caught in the severe and gigantic rock-piled structures on every hand. These CANON OF THE GRAND RIVER. A Marvelous Gorge. One of the World's Wonders. 4 8 OVER THE RANGE. are not made up of boulders, nor are they solid monoliths, like those in the Royal Gorge. On the contrary, they are columns, bastions, buttresses, walls, pyramids, towers, turrets, even statues, of stratified stone, with sharp cleavage, not in the least weather-worn, presenting the appearance of Brobdingnagian masonry — hence I use the phrase " rock-piled structures" advisedly and as best descriptive of what there exists. But the kaleidoscope is shaken and the rock pieces are rearranged. The effect is startling. We have left Egypt, with her shades of gray and her frowning, massive, and gigantic forms. We are in a region of glow- ing colors, where the ver- milion, the maroon, the green, and the yellow abound and mingle and contrast. "What strange country was the prototype of this? Ah! yonder is something characteristic — a terraced pyramid banded with brilliant and varied colors — the tcocoli of the Aztecs. Whirling around a head- land of glowing red rock, which it seems ought to be called "Flamingo Point," wc are in a region of ruddy color and of graceful forms. Minarets, from whose sum- mits the muezzin's call might readily be imagined falling upon the cars of the dwellers in this "Orient in the West," spires more graceful than that of Bruges, more lofty than that of Trinity, towers more mar- velous than Pisa's leaning wonder, columns more curi- ous than that of Yendome, splintered and airy pinna- cles, infinite in variety, in- numerable! inimitable! in- describable! EXPLORING T 2 WALLS. Glenwood Springs, Health and Pleasure Resort. Wonderful Hot Springs. Distance from Denver, 360 miles. Elevation, 5,758 feet. Population, 3,000. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 49 In a moment darkness and the increased rumble of wheels; then light and another marvelous view. We have passed tunnel No. 1. the portcullis; darkness again for a moment, then the blue sky above us. Wc have entered through the postern gate; darkness for the third time absolute, unmitigated blackness of dark- ness; this must be "the deepest dungeon 'neath the castle moat." Bui soon again we see the blessed light, and there before us lies Glenwood Springs! — Color Greatest Resort. Glenwood Springs is the pleasure and health resort of Colorado, as well as a flourishing and growing town. It is the county-seal of Gar- field County. The picturesque scenery of the Grand River, from its source midst the peaks and crags of the Rockies, to its debouch into the mag- nificent waters of the broad Colorado, has been the theme of able writers in prose and poetry, but at no spot in its rapid march to the sea, do the waters of the Grand glisten and ripple upon the shores of a lovelier valley than at its confluence with the Roar- ing Fork, where are situated the springs and city of Glenwood. Here the sentinel ranges, which have guarded the stormy passage of the turbulent stream through mountain pass and precipitous canon, seem to have deployed their ranks, that they might surround and embrace a valley so lovely in its landscape and set in a frame of such scenic grandeur. The springs themselves are phenomenal, innumerable fountains bubbling up over an area covering both sides of the river, and varying in volume from twenty to one thousand cubic inches per second. The principal springs on the north side of the Grand River discharge an immense body of water, heated in nature's furnace to 140 Fahrenheit, which flows in a broad stream to its outlet through an aqueduct recently constructed, forming a beautiful island, upon which is erected a commodious and well-appointed bathing-house, provided with every convenience for sitz, plunge, and vapor bathing. The waters have been found of great benefit to invalids, and as a result the springs are largely patronized. Aside from the beautiful valley selected for its site, and the attractions presented by its wonderful springs, Glenwood City possesses many advantages and material resources which arc destined to make it one of the most important points on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The town has electric lights, waterworks, and all of the modern improvements. Glenwood is well supplied with hotels. The new Hotel Colorado, which cost 8350,000, is probably one of the finest resort hotels in the United States. It is built of Roman tiles and Colorado peach-blow stone, and contains two hundred guest rooms and forty private baths, is built in Italian style, and located under the shadow of the mountains, with the banks of the famous Pool immediately in front of it. It is surrounded by beautiful parks and drives, and withal, is a most delightful place to spend a season. There are other hotels, though less pretentious, the Hotel (lien wood, the Kendrick, the Grand being among the number. Accommodations for Bathing. The bath-house ere. ted at the won- derful hot springs here is of the most elegant design. It is built of red sandstone, and the walls of all rooms are of red or cream colored pressed brick, wainscoted with Texas pine and colored enamels. There art- forty four large bath-rooms, in two departments, for the respecth e sexes. Eai 11 bath-room has two compartments. One is lined with enamel and set with a porcelain tub, having bronze appliances for $0 OVER THE RANGE readily supplying hot, warm or cold mineral water, and hot, warm or cold fresh water, also showers of warm or cold water. Any desired temperature, from 45 up to 120 Fahrenheit, can be supplied. The other compartment is furnished as a dressing room, and provided with a settee for reclining after the bath. These compartments have high ceilings, and are well lighted from elevated windows by day, and by incandescent electric lamps at night. Light refreshments are served in each room by attendants summoned by electric bells. Massage treatment is administered in a room for that purpose. Besides the bath-rooms, the building contains handsome sitting and smoking rooms with open fires, physician's room, billiard-room, coffee kitchen, linen-rooms, hairdressing-rooms, laundry, etc. All rooms are kept supplied with fresh air at an equable temperature throughout the year. Every accessory for the luxurious and health-giving bath is provided in the building. The baths arc supplied from the main or Yampa spring, which yields a constant flow of 2,500,000 gallons per day of highly mineralized hot water, at a temperature of 124.2 Fahrenheit. This water is a remarkable remedial agent, aiding or effecting cures of scrofula, rheumatism, gout, lead poisoning, diabetes, Bright"s disease, and all skin and blood diseases. The new bath-house stands on the margin of the Mammoth Swimming Pool. Tlie Bathing' Pool. This is remarkable for its size and the completeness of its conveniences. It is six hundred feet in length, by one hundred and ten feet in width at the widest part. Its depth gradually increases from three and one-half feet at one end to six feet at the other. The walls are of red sandstone, and the bottom is paved with hard pressed brick. Its surface area is 43,000 square feet, or one acre, and the capacity 1,500,000 gallons. It is constantly supplied with mineral water from the main or Yampa Spring, and kept at a temperature of about 05° Fahrenheit. There are one hundred and thirteen dressing-rooms, in separate departments for the sexes. These are warmed in winter, and a hooded way leads into the water. At night the pool is brilliantly lighted by arc electric lights. Bathing suits are supplied at a moderate charge. Thousands who have tried bathing in the pool pronounce it the most delightful of baths. The exercise which it admits of while bathing is deemed especially beneficial to many kinds of invalids. The Vapor Cave.S. A remarkable feature of these springs are the vapor caves — natural openings in the rocks to which the steam from the hot springs obtains access. In one of these natural caves the company has erected a unique vapor bath-house, with ample dressing-rooms, a number of private vapor rooms, shower bath-room, etc., all lighted by electric lights, affording vapor baths in either cave or private rooms at a temperature of 150 to no° Fahrenheit. These baths are not only a luxury to those who are well, but are especially recommended by physicians for a number of serious ailments. Aspen Branch. Extending from Glenwood Springs in a southeasterly direction is the branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad to Aspen, and its wonderful mines. The following points are on this line: Carhondale. Situated at the confluence of Rock Creek and Roaring Fork, twelve miles south of Glenwood Springs. This is the junction with the Crystal River Railroad leading to the coke ovens and coal mines owned and operated by the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 373 miles. Elevation, 6,181 feet.) The Crystal River Railway, starting at Carbondale, where it con- nects with the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, runs up the valley of Rock Creek, in a southerly direction, for about twenty miles, to Placita, 52 OVER THE RANGE with a branch from Redstone to Coal Basin, a distance of twelve miles. This rail- way is owned by the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company, and is an important feeder to the Rio Grande System, bringing to the main line vast quantities of coal and coke. Avalanche Creek. Twelve miles from Carbondale. This will be the shipping-point for silver and iron ores located six to eight miles up Avalanche Creek. Penny's Hot Spring's. Fourteen miles south of Carbondale, on Rock Creek. These springs are said to be equal to those of Glenwood in healing and restorative power. Redstone. The junction of the Coal Basin branch, and seat of the summer home of the president of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. Coal Basin. Nineteen miles from Carbondale. At this station all the coal from Coal Basin is received. This is the largest and finest body of coking coal in Colorado, and is controlled by the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. Extensive coking ovens have been erected at this point. Placita. Twenty miles from Carbondale. At this point is located the coal breaker and extensive plant of the company, who own the extensive anthra- cite coal-fields of Chair Mountain. This company is shipping large quantities of anthracice coal daily. This coal is said to be equal to the best red ash coal of Pennsylvania. Scenic Attraction. The line passes the base of Sopris Mountain and Chair Mountain, and terminates in the great elbow of the Elk Mountains at Placita. No finer scenery can be found in the West. In a ride of two hours the tourist can be transported from the beautiful valley of Roaring Fork nearly to the summit of the Elk Mountain Range, and can view nearly all the prominent peaks from Mount Massive west. Returning to Carbondale, the stations on the main line to Aspen are as follows: Emma, Rose, and Woody Creek. Aspen, the county-seat of Pitkin County, is located in one of the most noted mining regions of Colorado, and is the terminus of the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The valleys of the Roaring Fork River and its confluents, Castle, Hunter's, and Maroon creeks, are especially fitted for agriculture, and the hills and mesas adjacent form a fine range for stock, which in addition to the mining interests will surely make Aspen one of the most prosperous cities in the State. Stores and shops of all kinds, carrying large lines of goods, are abundant and the business done here would do credit to a town boasting five times its present population. The good faith of the people is mani- fested by the character of the buildings they have erected. It is a town of beauti- ful homes, and has most excellent society All the principal religious denomina- tions have suitable houses of worship, and the public schools are of an excellent order. The hotels are good, there is a fine opera house and hotel, and the town is supplied with pure water from Castle Creek. An electric-light plant illuminates the principal places of business as well as the streets. The climate is delicious and especially beneficial in all pulmonary complaints. Aspen is a garden town, and displays many beautiful lawns, sprinkled and beautified by flowers. The main industry of Pitkin County, of which Aspen is the county-seat, is mining. The town is situated uoon the great zone or belt which passes through ASPEN. Great Mining Town. Health and Pleasure Resort. Population, 5,000. Elevation, 7,874 feet. Distance from Denver, 402 miles. 54 OVER THE RANGE the country in a northeasterly and southwesterly course, and has tributary territory for from twenty to thirty miles each way. The ores are of good grade and are found in remarkably large deposits. The Great Central lead, with its spurs and lateral feeders, resembles a river with many branches. Silver and lead are the principal mineral products, although gold has been found and profitably worked at Independence, in the eastern part of the county, and the iron ores at Coop- er's Camp, in the south- western part, are found in immense deposits, and are of the very finest quality. Building stone is found, and the rock is unsurpassed in texture or color, and the surrounding hills will be great producers for out- side markets. Some coal is found in Pitkin County, but not in extensive meas- ures as in Garfield, the great coal county of the United States, which ad- joins upon the north. There is no territory of similar area with richer or more varied products than Pit- kin County. The scenery around this thriving city is wonderfully varied and beautiful. Situated in the heart of ti»? mountains, and surrounded by the most wonderful works of nature, Aspen will always be an attractive -dace to the tourist and the lover of the grand and marvel- ous. Hunting and fishing are found here in their per- fection. Nature seems to have made Aspen her favorite child, and has poured out at her feet all the rich gifts of her cornu- copia. (Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 402 miles. Elevation, 7,874 feet.) Returning to Glenwood Springs, we cross to the western bank of the river, and resume our journey towards the Occident, down the beautiful valley of the Grand. MARBLE CANON. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 55 New Castle. Here are located extensive coal-mines and coking <>vcn= of the Colorado Fuel &: Iron Company. (Distance from Denver, 373 miles. Population, 1,000. Elevation, 5,562 feet.) Rifle. The debarking point for Meeker and other points reached by stage lines. Excellent hunting and fishing grounds surround Rifle in all direction Elk, deer, bear, trout, and all kinds of game are in abundance. (Distance from Denver, 387 miles. Population, 500. Elevation, 5,310 feet.) Meeker. (45 miles north of Rifle by daily stage.) Meeker is situated in the heart of the finest fishing and game country in the state, and naturally the great goal for hunters, fishermen, health, and pleasure seekers generally. Meeker has excellent stores, livery, and is headquarters for guides, and with this point as a base, excursions into the game country, varying in distance from 5 to 100 miles, may be made, well repaying the participants for the outlay of time and money. The principal hunting and fishing resorts are along the north and south forks of the White River and on the White River itself, Marvin Creek, Trapper's Lake, Marvine Lakes and numerous tributaries of the streams named. Guides, horses, wagons, pack-horses, dogs, fishing-tackle, guns, ammunition, tents, and tamp equipage, together with all manner of food supplies., are obtainable at Meeker at reasonable rates. The game country around Meeker is prolific in all kind" of big game, and in the open seasons is the mecca of many sportsmen from all over the United States. It was from this point that President Roosevelt made his famous lion-hunting expedition. The agent for the Denver & Rio Grande at Meeker will give his personal attention to any requests for information, or will make advance arrangements for parties desiring to visit this region. The Grand Valley is noted for its agricultural resources, being one of the most prolific producing portions of the state. All manner of grains are raised in great abundance, and the fruits, especially peaches, grown in this valley are unsur- passed. The principal railroad points are Parachute, DeBeque, and Palisade. In the Valley of the Grand River, and sur- rounded by a fertile and well-watered countrv, Grand Junction is the leading city of western Colorado. An extensive system of irrigating ditches has been established, and all the land under these ditches taken up, and most of it culti- vated. The comparatively low altitude of this valley (it being the lowest among the Rocky Moun- tains, with but one exception, in Utah) makes it especially adapted to the cultivation of fruit and sugar beets. Peaches, grapes, apricots, pears, and small fruits flourish here in great luxuriance, and most of the farmers have planted orchards and vineyards of greater or less extent. The usual farm products thrive in the valley, and large crops can be counted on with the greatest confidence. The discovery that sugar beets could be raised cheaply and satisfactorily in the country around Grand Junction, led the capitalists of the State- to invest in the construction of a plant for the conversion of this vegetable into sugar. The plant is large and has enormous capacity and as the production of beets increase can easily enlarge this capacity. The beets raised in the vi< inity are particularly valuable for sugar manufacture, running as high as fifteen and eigh- teen per cent in saccharine matter and being fully ninetv per cent pure. Farmers Grand Junction. Chief City of Grand River Valley, at Junction of Grand and Gunnison Rivers. Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, 450 miles, via Standard Gauge Line; 424 miles via Narrow Gauge Line. Elevation, 4,594 feet. Eating Station. 56 OVER THE RANGE. GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO. in the neighborhood are devoting large acreages to the cultivation of the beet, as remunerative crops, with the aid of irrigation, is assured. This industry is also being developed in other parts of the State, and the day is not far distant when Colorado will rank among the foremost in the production of sugar, a truly valuable and interesting addition to its long list of business interests. Grand Junction is the county-seat of Mesa County, and has business and public buildings of a sub- stantial character. Shade trees have been planted on each side of the streets giving the town a most pleasing and attractive appearance. There is one thing sure about the Grand River Valley, and that is, it will never want for water; and with plenty of water for irrigation secured, the future urosperity of the valley and TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 57 the consequent growth of Grand Junction arc both assured. Hack in the hills great herds are pastured, and extensive coal-mines reached by the Little Book Cliff Railroad and large natural gas wells add to the many resources of this thriv- ing city. Grand Junction is well named, for here is the converging point of tin- standard and narrow-gauge lines of the Denver &• Rio Grande Railroad with the Rio Grande Western line for Ogden, Salt Lake, and the Pacific roast, as well as the confluem e of the two largest rivers in Colorado, the Grand and the Gunnison. Fruita is the next station to the west, and is in the heart of a most magnificent fruit-growing region. The peaches, apricots and nectarines reaching a high degree of perfection and of phenomenal yield. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 460 miles. Elevation, 4,510 feet.) The Utah Desert. For a stretch of about 160 miles beyond Fruita no agricultural country will be seen — over one hundred miles of this, in fact, is known as the "Utah Desert." But well-informed people assert that all this desert needs to be made fertile is irrigation. Water can be got on this land from the Grand River or Green River, and perhaps before another decade has passed away the "Utah Desert" will be ranked with that geographical myth of twenty years ago, "The Great American Desert." The Book Cliffs. The intervening space of one hundred miles be- tween the Grand River and the Green would be monotonous were it not for the glimpses one obtains, to the left, of the snow-crowned San Rafael and Sierra La Sal Mountains, and the constant presence, to the right, of the multiform and vari- colored Book Cliffs. These Cliffs are the northern shore of what in former ages must have been a great inland sea, across whose basin the railroad runs. They vary in altitude from seven thousand to nine thousand feet and divide the waters of the Grand River from those of the White, extending two hundred miles from east to west. Thompson's. Distance from Denver, 528 miles. Elevation, 5,160 feet. Population nominal. At this point, during the season, vast droves of sheep are driven in from the south, the wool clipped, and shipped to market. The region to the south, of which Moab, Utah, is the center, contributes large quantities of fruit to the Denver and Salt Lake City markets, which is all brought to Thompson's by wagon, and thence by rail to the cities named. West of Thompson's there are no stations of importance until the crossing of the Green River. Gl'een River is an oasis in the desert, and on alighting from the ears the traveler is astonished at the beauty of the surroundings, situated as it is, away out on the edge of the desert. A handsome lawn of shaven grass surrounds the station, ornamented with trees, shrubs, and flowers. Green River is a shipping point of considerable importance for stock. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 555 miles. Elevation, 4,080 feet.) Grand Canon of the Colorado. From the bridge across Green River the traveler can, if the day is clear, catch a glimpse of the rugged walls of the Grand Canon of the Colorado, scarcely fifty miles to the southward. ClinihillJ>- the Wasatch Range. from Green River to Soldier Sum- mit, a distance of ninety-nine miles, the grade is a constant ascent, the scenery growing wilder and more varied as the advance is made. The road extend-, to the northwest, and, after passing Sphinx, Desert Switch, and Cliff Siding, unimpor- tant sidetracks, reaches Woodside, twenty-five miles from Green River. Woodside is situated on Price River in the midst of interesting scenery. TO THE GOLDEN GATE 59 Stock raising is tributary to the station. (Population norrinal. Distance from Denver, 580 miles. Elevation, 4,645 feet.) Price Situated on the south fork of the Price River, the town has a very fertile valley, though of limited extent, surrounding it. What arable land there is has been carefully utilized, and large crops of potatoes, alfalfa, oats, and vege- tables arc raised here, through the aid of irrigation. There are mine-; of asphaltum to the northward, which are worked extensively, and the product shipped to tin East. Price is also an important shipping-point for cattle, sheep, and wool. The scenery here is very attractive, and the hunting and fishing are excellent. (Popu- lation, 100. Distance from Denver, 619 miles. Elevation, 5,547 feet. - ) Fort uried one of his soldiers, hence the name of the station. Good pasturage covers the mountain tops, and great herds of cattle, horses, and sheep graze here among the sage brush. The scenery here is wild and picturesque, and the view is wide, embracing a great sweep of serrated mountain summits. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 652 miles. Elevation, 7,454 feet.) From this point the descent is made to the Utah Valley. Red Narrows. Here the cliffs rise on each side of the track, assuming fantastic forms, and glowing with varied colors, among which red is predominant; hence the name. Thistle Junction. This is the junction point of the main line and the San Pete branch extending to Marysvale. (Population, 100. Elevation, 5,033 feet. Distance from Denver, 677 miles.) The San Pete Branch of the Rio Grande System starts toward the vast mines and quarries, grain fields and fruit gardens that lie toward the south from Thistle. Glance for a moment down this branch line. Two miles from Thistle is Asphaltum station, where there is a bed of nearly pure asphaltum, covering a square mile, and from eight to fourteen feet thick. Six miles further, and at Pines, a view is caught of Mount Nebo, one of the tallest and grandest peaks in Utah, snow-capped all the year. About a mile below Pines the road enters the Indian Reservation, and seven miles onward is Indianola, around which cluster the adobe houses and tepees of a branch of the great Ute tribe, whence Utah has its name. They do a little farming and stock-raising, and a good deal of hunting and fishing, and, all things considered, are generally doing well. Whirling on through twenty miles of pastures and farms, past Hilltop and Milburn, at Fairview a glorious view of the San Pete Valley, "the granary of Utah," bursts upon the enchanted eye. The whole country for fifty miles is a mingling of field and garden. Only six miles more, and the train sweeps into Mount Pleasant, nestled in peach and apricot, apple, pear, and plum trees, all bowed down with their loads of fruit. The town stands at the foot of the mountain on a commanding site. It has about 3,000 population, a fiouring-mill and planing-mill, and is the seat of Wasatch Academy, a Presbyterian school of some repute. Five miles in twelve minutes, and Spring City is passed, with great masses of snow-crowned mountains east and southeast of it, and in ten miles more, Ephraim's bowers of fruit and shade are entered. In a population of 2,200 there are 800 school children, besides all those too young for schooling. A new depot, new hotel, and many other new buildings tell the story of prosperity. A dash of seven miles onward, and Manti is reached, with 2,500 people, and hardly a poor man among them. Here, at the top of four lofty terraces hewn from the mountain side, stands the magnificent Mormon temple, which has cost $2,500,000, and is only second to the one in Salt Lake City. It is nearly two hun- dred feet long, one hundred wide, and one hundred high, with massive towers at each end, rising one hundred and seventy-five feet in the air. It is built of snow- TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 6 1 white oolite, quarried out of the site on which it stands, and the whole workmanship is exquisite. It can be plainly seen for forty miles up and down the valley. A hot spring on the edge of the town pours out a hundred cubic feet a minute of water gifted with remarkable medicinal qualities. Just below Manti are the strange "Saleratus Beds," where for two miles or more the road runs through vast deposits of soda pure enough for cooking purposes. The train rushes on through a continuous succession of grain fields and ore hards. Sterling, Gunnison, and Axtell are passed, the Sevier Valley is entered, and the locomotive screams its greeting to Salina, a thriving town of 1,000 industrious citizens. Just back of the town are mountains of rock salt, much of it as clear as crystal, and absolutely pure. Millions on millions of tons of it can be blasted out as cheap as dirt. About a mile south of these mountainous monuments to the memory of Lot's wife is a mountain of almost pure gypsum, and there is kaolin enough to furnish all the potteries and candy-makers of the world. The whole region abounds with game and fish. The railway company are now con- structing a branch line in a northeasterly direction from Salina to a connection with the main line at a point near Green River, thus shortening the distance be- tween the east and this rich valley by almost one hundred miles. Leaving Salina the San Pete Branch continues to the southward past Richfield, Elsinore, and Sevier to Marysvale, a distance of forty-seven miles. Through this stretch of beautiful valley will be found many charming orchards and fields of waving grain, and back in the hills the mines give forth their hoard of precious metals. Marysvale is destined to be a city of great importance at no distant day, as all southern Utah and Nevada will be tributary to it, and projected lines of railway to southern California have their northern terminals here. Returning again to the main line we find that the Spanish Fork Canon is charmingly picturesque, and a spot which would delight the artist. It is characterized by fresh foliage, soft contours, charm- ing contrasts, and sparkling waters. Emerging from the canon the traveler realizes that one stage of his mountain journey has been achieved, and before him lies one of the most fertile valleys in the world. Utah Valley. This favored spot presents the appearance of a well-culti- vated park. It has an Arcadian beauty, and resembles the vales of Scotland. In the center rests Utah Lake, where ". . . the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue." A little back from the lake stand the towns of Springville and Provo, shaded by the near peaks of the range. Utah Valley possesses a fertile soil, a delightful climate, and is one of the best farming sections of Utah. Fruit trees and grape vines grow as readily as hay and cereals, and the sugar beet is rapidly proving a source of great wealth to the farmers in this favored region. Eastward the oblong- shaped basin is shut in by the Wasatch Mountains; and on the west in the Oquirrh Range. Northward are low hills, or mesas, crossing the valley and separating it from that of the Great Salt Lake; while in the south, the east and west ranges approach each other and form blue-tinted walls of uneven shape. To the left of this barrier Mount Nebo, highest and grandest of the Utah peaks, rises majestically above all surroundings. Its summit sparkles with snow, its lower slopes are wooded and soft, while from it, and extending north and south, run vast, broken, vari- colored confreres. The valley is like a well-kept garden; farm joins farm; crystal 62 OVER THE RANGE streams water it; and scattered about in rich profusion are long lines of fruit trees, amid which are trim, white houses. All these evidences of prosperity testify to the virtues of industry, frugality, and perseverance, which no one can deny are possessed by the Mormon farmers. Springville. This is a typical Mormon town, and is really the first Mor- mon settlement we enter. The town derives its name from the fact that a strong hot spring pours its waters into a stream just above the town, in Hobble Canon. The water does not freeze in winter, and thus a flouring mill run by it is enabled to work the year round. (Population, 3,500. Distance from Denver, 692 miles. Elevation, 4,555 feet.) Tintic Branch extends southward from Springville, on through Spanish Fork, Payson, and Goshen, a region rich in all agricultural productions. West of Goshen, the branch line enters Pinon Canon, and runs for ten miles through as wild and rugged scenes as can be found in all this region of scenic wonders. The track through the canon is a dizzy puzzle in engineering. It winds and climbs, twists, turns, and wriggles, and at last absolutely crosses itself backward and for- ward, tying itself into a loop like a double bow-knot. There are but two similar track tangles in the United States, one in California and the other in Colorado. Out of this canon labyrinth, the line emerges at Silver City in the far-famed Tintic mining-camp; and just on beyond that, will doubdess ere long rush its iron horse into the newly discovered Deep Creek bonanza region, whose richness is now attiacting wide-spread attention. Spanish Fork. This is the first town on the Tintic Branch that the tourist enters. It is situated on the Spanish Fork River, and is a most pleasant rural village. Fruit and shade trees abound. Agricultural, horticultural, and pastoral industries are pursued by the inhabitants. Vineyards flourish, wine is made, dairy products are a specialty, and the cereals and all kinds of vegetables are cultivated. (Population, 3,000. Distance from Denver, 695 miles. Eleva- i.on, 4,570 feet.) This pretty little city belongs to the best type of Mormon towns, and a description of it will serve to give the reader a good idea of the charac- teristics of all the towns built by the Mormons. The dwellings, as a rule, are comfortable, but not imposing in appearance. Many of them are con- structed of adobe or sun-dried bricks, and all are situated in lots of generous proportions and sur- rounded by ornamental and fruit trees. Water for irrigating purposes flows down each side of the streets, and shade trees in abundance and of luxuri- ant growth render the walks cool and inviting. Gardens filled with fruits, flowers, and vegetables are the rule, and a quiet, peace- ful, industrious, semi-rural life is the good fortune of the residents here. The town is eminently fitted for a health and pleasure resort, and has also great advantages as a manufacturing center. The Timpanogas River furnishes unexcelled water power, while inexhaustible supplies of artesian water are to be found at a depth of from forty to two hundred feet. The city has, in fact, the finest water supply of any in Utah Territory. Provo has a fine public school system and is the scat of the Brigham Young Academy, which was amply endowed by the first president of the Mormon Church, from whom the school takes its name. Its churches and pub- PROVO. County-Seat of Utah Co. Summer Resort. Population, 6,500. Distance from Denver, 696 miles. Elevation, 4,512 feet. 64 OVER THE RANGE lie buildings, including an opera house, are a credit to its people, who are of a literary taste and inclined to liberality of thought. Utah Lake, a fine body of fresh water, lies to the southwest, and to the north and east are the Wasatch Moun- tains. Farming and beet sugar raising, horticulture, and the raising of cattle and sheep are tributary industries, while in the town are large saw-mills, sugar factories, flouring mills, and woolen mills, the most extensive in Utah. PrOVO Canon or Hebor Branch. This branch traverses its entire length the beautiful Provo Canon. The railway follows the windings of the Provo River from the mouth to the head of the canon, where it widens into the picturesque Heber valley. It offers, therefore, innumerable shady spots along a stream that LAKE SAN CRISTOVAL. abounds with mountain trout. At Bridal Veil Falls, whose waters dash over a precipice 400 feet high, likewise at the Forks of the River, accommodations for tourists have been provided. A trip through this canon to Midway, the Natural Hot Pots and Heber will convince you that no lovelier or more healthful spot exists in the state. The "Hot Pots" are natural craters of boiling waters, and here has been established a comfortable sanitarium, with baths of all temperatures and description. This is also the route to the Strawberry and Duchesne valleys. En route are passed Caryhurst, Nunns, and Charleston, the latter a charming village of 250 inhabitants. At Heber, the terminus of the branch, we find a thriving town of 1,600 people. (Distance from Denver, 722 miles. Elevation, 5,550 feet.) XJtilll Lake. Mention has already been made of this beautiful body of water, but the statistical traveler may want to know something more definite about its dimensions. The lake is thirty miles long, six miles wide, and is fed by the American Fork, Spanish Fork, and Provo Rivers, and Salt, Peteetweet, and Hobble Creeks. Its outlet is the Jordan River which, flowing northward, empties into Great Salt Lake. There are plenty of fish in Utah Lake, chiefly trout and mullet. American Fork. On the western extremity of Utah Lake, is American Fork, a thriving town beautifully situated and embowered in tr?.cs. Agricultural and pastoral industries are tributary to its prosperity. (Population, 3,000. Dis- ^«ce from Denver, 709 miles. Elevation, 4,563 feet.) TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 65 Lelii. Four miles from American Fork is Lehi, another thriving town also on Utah Lake. Fruit and shade trees abound and make the town a place of sylvan beauty. The same industries thrive here as in the sister town mentioned above. Situated at Lehi is the main establishment of the Utah Sugar Co.'s beet sugar plant. Here the beet is reduced in vast quantities to commercial sugar of excellent quality. At several other points in the Utah Valley the Sugar Company have crushing plants, where the syrup is extracted from the beets and pumped in long THE BALANCED ROCK. pipe lines to the works at Lehi for final refining. Much could be written on the beet sugar industry, but suffice here to say, that this new source of wealth bids fair to place Utah at the head of her sister states in the production of sugar, and of wealth consequent thereon. The plants mentioned herein are of most recenl and modern construction and capable of handling an enormous amount of beets daily. (Population, 3,000. Distance from Denver, 713 miles. Elevation, 4,544 feet.) Bingham Junction. This station is at the junction of the Bingham and Alta branches of the road, and therefore is quite a bustling place in the way of railroad business, though it has but a nominal population. (Distance from Den- ver, 730 miles. Elevation, 4,365 feet.) 66 OVER THE RANGE Bingham Branch. This branch extends southwest to Bingham, a distance of fourteen miles. The intervening stations are Revere, Lead Mine, and Terra Cotta. Bingham. The town may almost be classed as a suburb of Salt Lake City, as it is less than an hour's ride from the capital of Utah Territory. The main industry of the surrounding population is mining. (Population, 900. Dis- tance from Denver, 744 miles. Elevation, 5,862 feet.) Little Cottonwood Branch. This branch extends to the northward from Bingham Junction to Wasatch, a distance of ten miles. The intermediate stations are Sandy and Davenport. The line passes through the Little Cottonwood Canon en route. Alta. This is a mining town known all round the world. The place is not on!y entertaining in itself, but in its neighborhood are a large number of easily accessible gorges, lakes, and hilltops full of artistic material and of trout fishing; or, if the tourist goes late in the season, of good shooting and ample opportunity for dangerous adventures in mountaineering. The Little Cottonwood canon is one of those great crevices between the peaks of the Wasatch Range, plainly visible from Salt Lake City, and distinguished by its white walls, which, when wet with the morning dews, gleam like monstrous mirrors as the sunlight reaches them from over the top of the range. Alta is reached by a narrow gauge tram from Wasatch a distance of about eight miles. The River Jordan. After the valley of Utah Lake has been left behind, en route to Salt Lake City, on the left of the track is seen a small river of yellow water meandering through the sage brush and volcanic scoria. The river is the Jordan, so called because it connects the Utah with the Great Salt Lake, as its namesake does Galilee and the Dead Sea. In July, 1847, Brigham Young stood on Ensign Peak, the "Mount of Prophecy,' and announced to his followers that down in the valley below should be founded the new "City of Zion, " the future home of the Latter Day Saints. Up to 1S71 the original settlers virtually lived apart from the rest of the world. This was owing to the religious \iews of the Mormons, which made them a peculiar and isolated people. To mining is due the first incursion of Gentile population,' which population has steadily increased, until at present the community of Salt Lake City differs but little from any other in its social, business, or religious aspect, except that it possesses, in addition to the accepted religious associations which exist else- where, one which differs from all others. The city is situated at the base of the Wasatch Mountains, which are a part of the great Continental Range dividing the Far West from the plains which extend from the base of the Rockies to the Missouri River. The finest residence portion of the city occupies the mountain bench, once the shore of a great inland sea, known to geologists and scientists as "Lake Bonne- ville," from which, ages ago, the waters receded until they settled in the basin of the Great Salt Lake, distant eighteen miles from the water marks yet plainly to be seen above the city. The location is such as to command a view of the entire valley, both ranges of mountains, and the southern portion of the lake. The streets are one hundred and thirty-two feet wide and bordered on each side with long rows of shade trees. Streams of pure water are conducted in ditches along SALT LAKE CITY. Capital of the State of Utah. Population, 70,000. Elevation, 4,225 feet. Distance from Denver, 741 miles. 6S OVER THE RANGE both sides of all the streets. The business sections are well built, and the business streets are paved. One of the largest business enterprises of the city is the Co-opera- tive Establishment. For convenience it is universally called the "Co-op."; its title in full is the " Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution. " It has a central building for headquarters and branches throughout the city and State. Whenever one sees a building with the mystic initials "Z. C. M. I." on its sign, one may know it is a branch of the great "Co-op." The headquarters of this institution are of brick, three hundred and eighteen by fifty-three feet in size, three stories high, and built over a large cellar. This building is crowded with merchandise of every description, and does an extensive wholesale and retail business. " Tem- ple Square" is a great attraction for the tourist. Here are situated the Mormon Temple, Tabernacle, and Assembly Hall. The Tabernacle is immense in its pro- portions, the roof resembling an upturned boat, and is risible from nearly every part of the city. The Temple is, with the single exception of St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York, the grandest and costliest ecclesiastical structure in this country. It was begun in 1853, completed in 1893, and cost nearly $6,000,000. It is two hundred feet long, a hundred feet wide, and a hundred feet high, with four towers, one at each corner, two hundred and twenty feet in height. The walls are ten feet thick, and the massiveness and solidity of its construction insure its defiance of the ravages of time for ages to come. It is built wholly of snow-white granite from the Cottonwood Canon; and, standing on one of the loftiest points in the city, can be seen for fifty miles up and down the valley. Near by arc the Bee Hive and Lion Houses, once the homes of Brigham Young and his many wives. The Hot Springs and the Warm Springs of Salt Lake are highly medicinal, and the large baths at both places are resorted to for many ailments. "Within a short radius of the city the attractions are varied and numerous. Fort Douglas, the Lake, Emigration City, Bingham, Little and Big Cottonwood Canons, the Hot Pots at Heber are easily reached. From Ensign Peak a panoramic view of the surrounding country is had. One may look from it down the greater part of Utah's length, while near at hand lie the city and lake. The Fort is also a popular resort, and not only commands an extensive view, but affords excellent opportunities of studying garrison life. The rides, drives, and rambles are innumerable. Every taste is catered to. For those who love grandeur, there are the mountains, with their narrow trails, secluded parks, wild canons and deep gorges; for those preferring gentler aspects, the valley, glowing with freshness, affords continual pleasure; for those craving the mysterious, there is the lake, large, silent, and strange. The hotels are excellent, the climate unexcelled, and days may be passed delightfully in exploring and in studying the wealth of attractions. There are theaters, reading rooms, good horses, excellent electric railways reaching to all parts of the city and suburbs, perfect order and universal cleanliness. Many of the private houses are palatial, and altogether the city is one of rare beauty and interest. As far as can be learned, the first mention in history of the Great Salt Lake was by the Baron La Houtan, in 1689, who gathered from the Western Indians some vague notions of its existence. Captain Bonneville sent a party from Green River in 1833 to make its circuit, but they seem to have given up the enterprise on reaching the desert on the northwest, on which they lost their way, and after weeks of aimless wandering found themselves in Lower California. To General John C. Fremont must be given the credit of first navigating its waters. In 184-', on his way to Oregon, General Fremont pushed out from the Great Salt Lake. Area, 2,500 square miles. Mean Depth, 20 feet. Specific Gravity, 1.107. Length, 126 miles. Breadth. 45 miles. 70 OVER THE RANGE mouth of Webber River, in a rubber boat, for the nearest island. He found it to be a desolate rock, fourteen miles in circumference and named it Disappointment Island. Captain Stansbury, on a subsequent visit, re -named it Fremont's Island, which name is re- tained. In 1850 Captain Stansbury spent three months in making a detailed survey of the Lake, its shores and islands. In brief, he found the west shore a salt-encrusted desert; the north shore com- posed of wide salt marshes, overflowed under steady winds from the south; the east shore possessed good, irrigable lands; the south shore was set with moun- tain ranges standing endways towards the lake, with the grass} - valleys, Spring, Toelle, and Jordan, inter- vening. The principal islands are Antelope and Stansburv, rocky ridges ranging north and south, rising abruptly from the water to n height of three thousand feet. Antelope is the nearest to Salt Lake City, and is six- teen miles long. Stansburv is twenty miles to the westward and is twelve miles in length. Both have springs of fresh water and good range for the stock, with which they are now covered. Of minor islands there are Fremont, Carrington, Gunni- son, Dolphin, Mud, Egg, and Hat, besides several small insular promontories without names. The first white man's boat to navigate the lake was probably that of Fremont; Captain Stansbury came next with his exploring boat curiously named the "Salicornia"; next in order were the Walker brothers, merchants of Salt Lake City, who sailed for some years a lonesome pleasure yacht. The lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles. Its mean depth does not probably exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place between Antelope arid Stansbury is sixty feet. From 1847 to 1856 the lake gradually filled five or six feet, and then slowly subsided to its old level. In 1863 it began to fill again, and in four or five years reached a point considerably higher than its present level, .perhaps four or five feet. In the year 1875 a pillar was set up at P.lack Rock, by which to measure the rise and fall, resembling a tide, but having no ascertained time. It is very slight compared with what it formerly was. Professor Gilbert of the Geological Survey, says that twice within recent geological time it has risen nearly a thousand feet higher than its present stage, and, of course, covered vastly more ground. He calls that lake after Captain Bonneville, the original explorer of these regions, and whom Irving has immortalized, Lake Bonneville. Causes which learned men assign as produ- cing what they call a glacial period might easily fill the lake until it extended nearly the whole length of Utah. During the last high stage, Professor Gilbert says there were active volcanoes in it. It is generally agreed that its first outbreak was vi 1 Marsh Creek, and the Portneuf into the Snake. At the present height of that channel (where the Oregon Short Line passes out of Cache Valley) it remained a long time stationary and then seems to have receded rapidly to a second stationary point, and so on down to its present stage. There is one very heavy beach-mark on all the hills surrounding its extended area and on the hills, which were then islands, and a curious thing is the fact that this beach-mark varies in altitude from one hundred to three hundred feet, showing that the earth in this valley is still far from having reached a stable equilibrium. The most mysterious thing about this inland sea, aside from its saltness, is the fact that it has no known outlet. A great number of fresh water streams pour into the lake from all sides, yet the water remains salt and the lake does not overflow. m 7 2 OVER THE RANGE The saline or solid matter held in solution by the water varies as the lake rises and subsides. In 1842 Fremont obtained "fourteen pints of very white salt" from five gallons of the water evaporated over a camp-fire. The salt was also very pure, assaying 97.80 fine. In 1850 Dr. L. D. Gale analyzed a sample of it which yielded twenty per cent of pure common salt, and about two per cent of foreign salts, chlo- rides of lime and magnesia. Sergeant Smart, U. S. A., analyzed a sample in 1877, and found an imperial gallon to contain nearly 24^ ounces of saline matter, amount- ing to fourteen per cent, as follows: Common salt 1 1-735 Lime carbonate .016 Lime sulphate .073 Epsom salt 1-123 Chloride of magnesia .843 Percentage of solids I 3-79° Water 86.2 10 100. One hundred grains of the dry solid matter contained: Common salt 85.089 Lime carbonate .117 Lime sulphate .531 Epsom salt 8.145 Chloride of magnesia 6. 118 It compares with other saline waters about as follows: Water. Solid. Atlantic Ocean 96.5 .... 3.5 Mediterranean 96.2 .... 3.8 Dead Sea 76 24. Great Salt Lake 86.2 13.8 And in specific gravity, distilled water being unitv: Ocean water 1 .026 Dead Sea 1.116 Great Salt Lake 1.107 The solid matter in the water varies between spring and fall, between dry and wet seasons, and also between different parts of the lake, for nearly all the fresh water is received from the Wasatch on the east. It is the opinion of salt makers that an average of the lake at its present stage would show the presence of seventeen per cent of solid matter. Salt Lake has become a fashionable bathing resort. In the long sunny days of June, July, August, and September the water becomes deliciously warm, much warmer in fact than the ocean, and this pleasant temperature is reached a month earlier and remains a month later. The water is so dense that one is sustained without effort, and vigorous constitutions experience no inconvenience from remain- ing in it a long time. A more delightful and healthy exercise than buffeting its waves when it is a little rough can hardly be imagined. There is a magnificent bathing resort on the Lake, near Salt Lake City. Saltair. The bathing resort is at Saltair, on the Great Salt Lake, about eigh- teen miles from the city. During the season bathing trains are run almost hourly from Salt Lake City to Saltair. These trains enable all overland passengers stopping off at Salt Lake City to have a bath in the great dead sea. Here is located the finest bathing pavillion on the continent; each of the elegant bath-rooms is fitted with shower-bath, stationary water-bowls, mirrors, chairs, incandescent electric lights, etc., making Saltair one of the most attractive watering places on the continent. There is a first-chss restaurant; careful male and female attendants and a silver-cornet band furnishes music day and evening, and one of the finest and largest dancing pavillions in the world. Professor John Muir, the celebrated scientist and litterateur, speaks as follows concerning a bath in the Great Salt Lake: "Since the completion of the trans-continental railways this magnificent lake TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 73 in the heart of the continent has become as accessible as any watering place on either coast, and I am sure that thousands of trawlers, sick and well, would throng to its shores every summer were its merits but half known." Saltair is only a few minutes' ride from the city and has good hotel accommodations, and then besides the bracing waters, the climate is delightful. The mountains rise into a cool sky, furrowed with canons almost Yoscmitic in grandeur and filled with a glorious profusion of flowers and trees. Lovers of science, lovers of wilderness, lovers of pure rest, will find here more than they ever may hope for. Park City Branch. The Park City line of the Rio Grande system traverses the beautiful Parley's Canon. Nearly the whole distance from Salt Lake OURAY. City to Park City is a succession of camping-out and shade places and resorts with the railroad and the mountain stream in close company. At Pharaoh's Glen, the Old Arm-Chair, Mountain Dell, and Felt's Resort, there are cool, cozy nooks, Alpine walks and climbs, groves of quaking asp, birch, maple, and pine, rugged crags, and mossy brooks that dance down over a hundred tiny waterfalls. This is an ideal outing canon, with hunting and fishing in the vicinity. Cabins, cottages, and tents for rent; guides and saddle-horses for hire. Visitors from Salt Lake City, picnic parties, etc., may leave the train at the various resort points at which it stops and select their own camping-place in the canon. Park City. At the head of the canon lies Park City, one of the greate I gold, silver, and lead mining camps in Utah -an extremely interesting point to visit. (Population, 4,000. Elevation, 6,970 feet. Distance from Denver, 771 miles.) At Park City stage can be taken over the hills to Heber Hot 1'ots and Provo canon, returning to Salt Lake City by way of the valley of the Jordan. Or stage may be had for Brighton's, ten miles distant, a summer resort 9,000 feet above sea Level. Brighton's is an entrancing spot surrounded by Silver Lake, Lake Mary, and Lake Blanche, in the very heart of the Wasatch Mountains. It has the combined attrac- 74 OVER THE RANGE tions of mountain, lake, and stream, and is the favorite resort for Salt Lake's bon ton. Good hotel and cottages. En route through the Canon are passed Roper, Pharaoh's Glen, Old Ann-Chair, Altus, and Gogorza. Salt Lake to Ogden. From Salt Lake to Ogden the Denver & Rio Grande system traverses a narrow plain. On the west lies the Great Salt Lake, while to the north and east rise the serrated peaks of the Wasatch Mountains. This region is under a high state of cultivation. Farms reach their golden or green fields over its length and breadth, and little streams run in bright threads out of the mountain canons down across the meadows. The lake is in full view of the traveler most of the way, and is a never-ending source of interest. The train speeds on, and entering an amphitheater, set around with mountains, reaches Ogden, the western terminus of the Denver & Rio Grande and Union Pacific Railroads, and the eastern end of the Southern Pacific — as well as the southern outlet of the Oregon Short Line. (Population, 25,000. Distance from Denver, 77S miles. Elevation, 4.293 feet.) *» *»*-^-"'" -' iJ " ??-Vr'-T^T"'- 1 ? ' QUEEN'S CANON GRAND CANON, FROM TO-RO-WASP. SALIDA TO GRAND JUNCTION VIA MARSHALL PASS. T Salida the tourist holding tickets over the line of railroad with which this book treats, may have the choice of two routes to Grand Junction. Either the standard gauge line via Leadville and Glen- wood Springs, as described in the foregoing pages, or the narrow gauge line via Marshall Pass, Gunnison, and Montrose. At Grand Junction these two lines unite and continue on to Salt Lake City and Ogden. The points of interest en route are as follows: Poiielia. This little town, five miles west of Salida, is the station for Poncha Hot Springs and the junction of the Monarch Branch with the main line. It is really a suburb of Salida, and is connected with that town by a beautiful boule- vard, which is one cf the pleasantest of drives. Monarch Branch. From Poncha this branch runs in a rich mining countrv, its terminus is Monarch, a prosperous mining town, 235 miles from Denver and 15 miles from Poncha. The intermediate stations on the line are Maysville and Garfield. Mining is the chief industry. As a resort for invalids, Poncha Hot Springs offers superior inducements, especially to those suffering from chronic troubles. The sick get well here in less time and with less medicine than in any other sanitarium outside of Colorado. The return to health here is made radically permanent. A great variety of diseases are cured by the peculiar earth-heated and earth-medicated waters and an intelligent system of baths. The effect on the sick is wonderfully beneficial, correlating a specific energy with the climate and pure atmosphere, and the very feeble are enabled to tolerate much hotter baths than in damper or lower altitudes, and secure correspondingly greater results. The analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs corresponds almost exactly with the waters of the Hot Springs in Arkansas. The temperature of the various Arkansas Hot Springs varies from 90 to 175 , that of the Poncha Springs varies from 90 to 185 Fahrenheit. The water is as clear as crystal and perfectly odorless and tasteless. It quenches thirst whether cold or hot, and does not disturb the stomach in any manner. There are one hundred of these Hot Springs, all flowing from a great field of tufa, the natural precipitation of ages, loss of temperature from contact with the atmosphere and chemically the same as the tufa of the Arkansas Hot Springs. The springs have a capacity large enough to bathe 40,000 persons daily. The following is an analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs: Poncha Springs. Hot Springs, Watering Place, and Health Resort. Distance from Denver, 220 miles. Elevation, 7,480 feet. 76 ,-ff ill * », » 7$ OVER THE RANGE Silicic Acid 32.73 Sesqui-oxide of Iron 1.27 Alumina 5.20 Lime 20.00 Magnesia 74 Chlorine 06 Carbonic-Acid Gas 22. so Organic Matter 6.24 Water 1.72 Sulphuric Acid 4.46 Potash 2.0S Soda 1 .00 Iodine 1 . ^o Bromine 1 .50 The waters are said to be a sure cure for rheumatism and all blood and skin diseases, and catarrhal affections. Poncha Pass. After leaving Poncha Station the railroad begins to climb the mountains, and makes its entry into Marshall Pass by way of Poncha Pass. As the train makes a long curve around the side of a great hill, about two miles above the town of Poncha, the tourist can see the Hot Springs on the side of the opposite hill to the left, a deep gorge intervening, at the bottom of which flows a clear mountain stream. The scenery here is wild and beautiful, and the interest increases with each mile of the ascent. Meai'S Junction. This little station, 226 miles from Denver, in the heart of the hills, is the junction of the San Luis Valley branch with the main line, and from this point the real ascent of Marshall Pass begins. San Luis Valley Branch. This branch of the Denver & Rio Grande extends from Mears Junction to Alamosa where it connects with the line coming over Yeta Pass, to Silverton, and to Creede, as described elsewhere in this volume En route the first station of importance is Villa Grove This town is situated at the northern extremity of the great San Luis Valley, and is surrounded by a rich agricultural country. There are many good mines of gold, silver, and coal in the near vicinity. Eight miles from Villa Grove, on the Orient Branch, is located the famous Orient Iron mine, from which is annually produced about 100,000 tons of a fine quality of iron ore. This ore is smelted and formed into all kinds of commercial iron and steel at the works of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company located at Minnequa, near Pueblo. (Popu- lation, 500. Distance from Denver, 245 miles. Elevation, 7,972 feet.) Valley View Hot Springs. Five miles beyond Villa Grove is situated a group of hot springs of great medicinal value. There are so many of these springs in Colorado that all of them have never been fully developed, and this particular group of springs has not been given the attention they really deserve. For a distance of fifty-two miles this branch extends through the grand San Luis valley in an absolutely straight line with a gradual descent towards the south. Moffat, Hooper, and Mosca are the principal stations en route and are all towns of considerable importance as entrepots for this wonderful agricultural valley. There are a number of small lakes in the valley, insuring water in abundant quan- tities for irrigating purposes and constituting a home for myriads of wild fowl. Hunters from Denver, Pueblo, Leadville, Salida, and Alamosa, and in fact from all parts of the state, visit this valley each season. From Moffat station a branch line extends to the rich mines at Crestone, a distance of seventeen miles from Moffat and 279 miles from Denver. Crestone is rapidly becoming one of Colorado's prominent mining towns. (Population, 300. Elevation, 788 feet.) Alamosa, the end of this division, will be found fully described in another part of this book. Resuming the journey to the westward, after leaving Mears Station on the main line the road advances by means of a series of curves absolutely bewildering, following the convolutions of the gulches. As the altitude grows greater, the view MARSHALL PASS. So OVER THE RANGE becomes less obstructed by mountain sides, and the eye roams over miles of cone- shaped summits. The timberless tops of towering ranges show him that he is among the heights and in a region familiar with the clouds. Then he beholds, stretching away to the left, the most perfect of all the Sierras. The sun- light falls with a white, transfiguring radiance upon the snow-crowned spires of the Sangre de Cristo Range. Their sharp and dazzling pyramids, which near at hand are clearly defined, extend to the southward until cloud, and sky and snowy peak commingle and form a vague and bewilder- ing vision. To the right, towers the fire-scarred front of old Ouray, gloomy and grand, solitary and forbidding. Ouray holds the pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the fertile Gunnison. Slowly the steeps are conquered until at last the train halts at the station, upon the Summit of Marshall Pass. The awful silence of the storm-tossed granite ocean lies beneath. Marshall Pass. Ralroading Among the Clouds. A Marvel cf Engineering Skill. Elevation, 10,856 feet. CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE. The traveler looks down upon four lines of road, terrace beyond terrace, the last so far below as to be quite indistinct to view. These are only loops of the almost spiral pathway of descent. Wonder at the triumphs of engineering skill is strangely mingled with the feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous grandeur of the scene. Marshall PaSS Station is directly on the summit of the pass, and the track is inclosed by a large snow shed. Fine views can be obtained, however, from the loop holes, from either end of the shed or from the observatory, erected 82 OVER THE RANGE above the station. The elevation is 10,856 feet above the sea. The descent begins, and the road winds around projecting headlands, on the verge of vast precipices, threads dark recesses where patches of light fall through leafy canopies upon the green slopes, follows the windings of the Tomichi, and later courses through culti- vated meadows dotted with hay-stacks and small ranch houses. As the train rolls swiftly on, a backward glance gives the traveler a comprehensive idea of the vast heights overcome in the passage. The stations between Marshall Pass and Gunni- son are as follows: Shawano, Chester, Buxton, Sargent, Elko, Crookton, Doyle, Eonita, Parlin, and Mounds. These stations are all small, but situated in the midst of beautiful scenery. The Wailllita Hot Spring's are situated ten miles from Doyle. The waters have long been famous for their great medicinal qualities, and they have been frequented by those suffering from ill health with the most surprising and gratifying results. First-class hotel and. bathing accommodations have been provided for guests. A daily stage-line is operated from Doyle connecting with all trains. The scenery surrounding the Springs is unsurpassed, and no pleasanter place can be found by the searcher after health or pleasure. Camp Bowerman. Four miles beyond Waunita is located the most recently discovered gold camp of Colorado. Gold was discovered here in July, 1903, in very rich veins and what a few months ago was a barren and uninhabited region, is now a lively and prosperous mining camp. Tomiclli Meadows. Beyond Parlin the line crosses a wide expanse of natural meadowland, through which meanders the beautiful Tomichi Creek. Gunnison is the county-seat of Gunnison County, and is situated on the Gunnison River. From its central position in the great Gunnison Valley, it must of necessity always be the distributing point; and therefore its growth is assured as being coincident with that of the country in which it is situated. From Gunnison extends a branch of the Denver c\: Rio Grande Railroad up to Crested Butte and Floresta, situated in the heart of a rich gold and silver mining country, and being the center of the wonderful anthracite coal measures of the state. The town is beautifully situated and is in such close proximity to some of the most attractive scenerv in the Rocky Mountains, that it has become a favorite objective point with tourists. The Gunnison River and its many confluent trout brooks offer fine sport for the fish- erman, and the hills abound in game. The La Veta Hotel, the eating station for passengers, is one of the most magnificent in Colorado, having been erected at an expense of $225,000. It is elegantly furnished, and offers first-class accommoda- tions for the tourists who may wish to spend a few days or weeks here, hunting and fishing. Crested Butte Branch. From Gunnison the Crested Butte branch of the road extends to the northwest to Crested Butte, a distance of twenty-eight miles. The line extends up the Gunnison River, which swarms with trout and is an extremely picturesque stream. The Elk Mountains are in plain view, and add grandeur to the scene. The intervening stations are Almont, at which place is a recently erected "Sportsman's Lodge," Jack's Cabin, and Glaciers. Crested Butte. This pretty village is situated most delightfully among the mountains, one castellated peak directly opposite the town conferring the name GUNNISON. Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 288 miles. Elevation, 7,683 feet. Eating Station. EAGLE RIVER CANON. 84 OVER THE RANGE it bears. This is the center of the most remarkable coal region yet discovered in Colorado, and abounding also in rich mines of gold and silver. At Crested Butte, just back of the village, is found abundant measures of exceedingly bituminous coal, which is mined largely and made into coke. A few miles north of the town at Floresta anthracite coal, equal in every respect to the best found in Pennsylvania, is taken from the top of a mountain, and shipped all over Colorado and Utah. The fishing and hunting in the mountain streams, and over the wooded hills, furnish abundant sport for the residents and tourists, and the rides and drives afford an almost infinite variety. (Population, 7,200. Distance from Denver, 316 miles. Elevation, 8,878 feet.) Floresta. Eleven miles beyond Crested Butte. The present terminus of this branch, and the shipping point for the anthracite coal mined in the vicinity. Sapiliero stands at the eastern entrance to the Black Canon, and is beauti- fully situated on the banks of the Gunnison River. The town was named after a sub-chief among the Utes, who was regarded by the whites as a man of unusual intellectual and executive ability. In addition to commanding the entrance to the canon, Sapinero is the junctional point for the Lake City extension of the line. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 314 miles. Elevation, 7,255.) Lake City JB ranch. This extension is thirty -six miles in length, and has its terminus at Lake City. The line turns to the left about a mile west of Sapi- nero, and passes through remarkable Lake Fork canon en route. Lake Fork Canon. This canon is a most attractive bit of scenery. It is noted for its narrowness, and the height and grandeur of its walls. For thirteen miles the railroad winds through this tortuous chasm, the walls rising on each hand to a height varying from eight hundred to thirteen hundred feet. The river claims the right of way but the railroad also asserts its rights, and by the exercise of engi- neering skill has forced a passage. In many places the solid wall of granite has been blasted away, and from the fallen blocks a solid embankment constructed, upon which the rails have been laid. The Lake Fork is a rapid and tumultuous stream, abounding in rapids and presenting a most interesting, varied, and exhilarating panorama to the eye. Emerging from the canon and gaining a greater altitude, the view is one of magnificent extent and grandeur. Northward the peaks of the Elk Range form a long line of well-separated summits. Northeastward, the vista between nearer hills is filled with the clustered heights of the Continental Divide in the neighborhood of the Mount of the Holy Cross. Just below them confused elevations show where Marshall Pass carries its lofty avenue, and to the southward of that stretches the splendid, snow-trimmed array of the Sar.gre de Cristo. The enterprising and thriving mining town of Lake City stands in a little park at the junction of the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River with Hensen Creek, both typical mountain streams. A substantial and pretty town has been established. Mines of marvelous value surround the town, and give life and energy to all the commercial and speculative projects of the people. The development of her mining resources has been carried on steadily, and the shipments of precious ores has reached a very heavy tonnage. It will not be long before Lake City's mines will become as famous as those of her fortunate sisters in the wide circle of the San Juan silver region. The romantic surroundings of this pretty town — the lovely lake, San LAKE CITY. Picturesque Mining Town. Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 350 miles. Elevation, 8,686 feet. GATE OF LADORE. BLACK CANON OF THE GUNNISON. Height of Walls, 2,500 feet. Length of Canon, 14 miles. 86 OVER THE RANGE Cristoval, from which it takes its characteristic name, the grand mountains and the grassy parks — have made it a favorite for the lovers of nature in the past, and will still attract them in the future. This is a paradise for a sportsman. Over these rolling uplands, among the aspen groves, upon the foothills and along the willow-bordered creek deer now throng, and even an occasional elk and antelope are to be seen. In the rocky fastnesses the bear and panther find refuge, and every little park is enlivened by the flitting forms of timid hares and the whirring escape of the grouse disturbed by our passing. Beyond Gunnison, the railway traverses the valley of the same name, following the river closely and encountering nothing but meadows and low, grayish cliffs. The Gunnison River abounds in trout, and is a great resort for the disciples of Isaac Walton. Soon, however, the channel, which the stream has worn, becomes narrower. The cliffs grow higher and steeper, the vegetation is less abundant, and suddenly the sunlight is cut off by broken sum- mits, and directly after leaving Sapinero, the Black Canon holds us fast in its embrace. This gorge is grander, deeper, darker, and yet more beautiful than the one we have so lately penetrated. It is twite as long, has more verdure, and, although the walls are dark hued enough to give the place its name, still they are of red sandstone in many places, and from their crevices and on their tops, shrubs, cedars, and pinons grow in rich abundance. The river has a deep, seagreen color, and is followed to Cimarron Creek, up which the road continues, still through rockv depths, to open country beyond. The Black Canon never tires, never becomes commonplace. Cllipeta Falls starts from a dizzy height, is dashed into fragments by lower terraces, and, tossed by the winds, reaches the river in fine white spray; there another cataract leaps clear of the walls, and thunders unbroken upon the ground beside us. In the cliffs are smaller streams which trickle down and are lost in the river below. At times the canon narrows, and is full of sharp curves, but again has long wide stretches, which enable one to study the steep crags that lower heaven- ward two or three thousand feet. Clirecanti Needle, the most abrupt and isolated of these pinnacles has all the grace and symmetry of a Cleopatra obelisk. It is red-hued from point to base, and stands like a grim sentinel, rising to an elevation of 1,500 feet above the track, watchful of the canon's solitudes. At the junction of the Gunnison and the Cimarron a bridge spans the gorge, from which the beauties of the canon are seen at their best. Somber shades prevail; the stream fills the space with its heavy roar, and the' sunlight falls upon the topmost pines, but never reaches clown the dark red walls. Huge boulders lie scattered about; fitful winds sweep down the deep clefts; Nature has created everything on a grand scale; detail is supplanted by magnificence, and the place is one appealing to our deepest feelings. It greets us as a thing of beaut}-, and will remain in our memory a joy forever. Long ago the Indians of this region built their council fires here. By secret paths, always guarded, they gained these fastnesses, and held their grave and somber meetings. The firelight danced across their swarthy faces to the cliffs encircling them. The red glow lit up with Rembrandt tints the massive walls, the surging streams and clinging vines. They may not have known the place had beauties, but they realized 88 OVER THE RANGE its isolation, and fearing nothing in their safe retreat, spoke boldly of their plans. Cimarron. Is a most attractive little station, nestled among the gulches on the banks of the sparkling Cimarron Creek. Sportsmen make headquarters at Cimarron, for the hills are full of game and the streams abound in trout. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 329 miles. Elevation, 6,906 feet.) Cimarron Canon. Where Cimarron Creek empties into the Gunnison through a short canon the road leaves Black Canon which continues on with the larger stream, heightening in awfulness. Down there the fall of the river increases ASCENDING PIKE'S PEAK. so rapidly that to follow it to the end, the railroad would emerge a thousand feet below the valley which it seeks, if a practicable grade should be kept, so the engineers have turned the road out to the valley through Cimarron Canon, and in four or five miles a verdureless expanse is reached, and for a short time the road traverses a region which is picturesque in its poverty and desolation; and in the summer the distant and sun-heated buttes, with the arid plains between, remind the traveler of the Wastes of Arabia Petra. Cerro Summit is reached directly after emerging from Cimarron Canon. From here the Uncompahgre Valley, its river, and the distant, pic- turesque peaks of the San Juan are within full sight of the traveler. Descending to the valley and follow- ing the river past Montrose, the Gunnison is again encountered at Delta. The town of Montrose can take just pride in the grandeur of its mountain view. Situated in the Uncompahgre Valley, Montrose is almost surrounded by mountains. The San Juan Mountains tower into the heavens to the south, captained by Mounts MONTROSE. Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 351 miles. Elevation, 5,811 feet. 9° OVER THE RANGE Sneffles and Uncompahgre, both over fourteen thousand feet high. Along the western horizon trend the Uncompahgre Peaks to where the Dolores joins the Grand River, a distance of over one hundred and fifty miles. The Uncompahgre Valley is fertile, and along the branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- road, from Montrose to Ouray and Delta, is under high state of cultivation. The cereals, fruit, and vegetables, together with forage plants, flourish here in the greatest luxuriance. Here was the Indian reservation, and here lived ( )uray, the friend of the white man. It is only a few years since the good chief died, an I his farm and buildings are still pointed out to the traveler, on the line to the town of Ouray, about two miles south of Montrose. TROUT LAKE. The land in the valley surrounding Montrose is gradually being brought under cultivation. Irrigating canals have been constructed, and the rich soil responds generouslv to the demands of the farmer. The United States govern- ment has undertaken the construction of a tunnel, five miles in length, through the mountains to tap the Gunnison River, and thereby provide a never failing supply of water for irrigating this wonderful valley. Mining and pastoral industries, par- ticularly the raising of fruits, also contribute greatly to the success of Montrose. There can be found excellent hunting and fishing in the vicinity. Delta is twenty-one miles from Montrose, and is the county-seat of Delta County. It is situated in the delta formed by the junction of the Uncompahgre and the Gunnison rivers. The town is situated in the heart of the most prolific fruit-raising region of the state. There are located here several fruit canneries, and the industry is making this valley and town among the richest and most noted in the state. Delta is the junction point with the North Fork Branch to Hotchkiss and Paonia. It is destined to become in time, a considerable business center. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 373 miles. Elevation, 4,980 feet.) North Fork Branch. In 1902 the Denver & Rio Grande constructed a branch line designated as above, extending in a northeasterly direction from Delta o > o z o H X 92 OVER THE RANGE a distance of forty-four miles through the remarkably rich fruit and agricultural country adjacent to the North Fork of the Gunnison River and following this stream amid a profusion of magnificent scenery through the towns of Hotchkiss and Paonia. Hotcllkiss. The town of Hotchkiss, incorporated in 1900, has a thrifty popu- lation of about 500. Situated on the north fork of the Gunnison near the mouth of Leroux Creek and on the "North Fork Branch" of the Denver & Rio Grande, its location is such that it is the agricultural center of the eastern portion of the county. It supports two banks and half a dozen mercantile houses, all of which do a good business. The Fire Mountain Canal, with a capacity of 125 cubic feet of water, affording sufficient to reclaim 6,000 acres of land which is tributary to Hotchkiss, will greatly add to its importance. The town is regularly laid out and has a number of substantial brick structures. (Population, 500. Elevation, 5,369 feet. Distance from Denver, 398 miles.) Paonia. Paonia is on the "North Fork Branch" of the Denver & Rio Grande, near the eastern line of Delta County. It is in the oldest fruit region of the Western Slope, and sustains a well-deserved reputation in that line. The town has fine churches and school houses, two banks, a system of water works, and well-kept streets and walks. (Population, 359. Elevation, 5,689 feet. Distance from Den- ver, 406 miles.) Cedaredge, Cory, Crawford, and Eckert are hamlets adjacent to the "North Fork Branch" with from 50 to 100 population. Each is the center of a prosperous community. Between Delta and Grand Junction there are a number of small stations which will not interest the traveler, but the scenery through which the railroad passes (while it is not especially startling) will interest him. After passing Delta the road crosses the Uncompahgre and follows the west bank of the Gunnison (the same river that was left at Cimarron, forty-four miles behind us). In about five miles we cross to the east bank of the Gunnison and roll along beneath cliffs which tower on our right above the train, leaving but little room between rocks and river. At Bridgeport the cars plunge into the Bridgeport Tunnel, 2,256 feet in length, one of the longest tunnels on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Shortly an iron bridge, over a fine stream (the Grand River) is passed, and we find ourselves at the junction of the Gunnison with the Grand River; and of the two main lines of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad with its western division, the Rio Grande Western Railway. PUEBLO TO ALAMOSA. ROM Pueblo to Cuchara Junction, a distance of 50 miles, the rail- road extends to the southward across the plains which stretch in one vast unbroken expanse to the eastern horizon, while to the west lies the Greenhorn Range with its intervening foothills. Spanish Peaks. To the south rise the famed Spanish Peaks, springing directly from the plains, remarkable for their symmetry of outline, and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 feet. The Indians, with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these beautiful mountains "Wahatoya," or twin breasts. As a matter of orthographical interest, the reader may be pleased to know that the Indian spelling of the word is as follows: "Huacjatollas!" Trinidad Branch. From Cuchara Junction, one line of the mad ex- tends in a southern direction to Trinidad, the largest city in Southern Colorado, and the center of the famous coal measures of El Moro. This branch of the road does not pass directly through grand scenery, as it extends to the southward across the plains, and to the east of the mountains; but the line is of great commercial importance, as by its connections at Trinidad it affords a direct through route to the Gulf of Mexico. Locally, also, it is of especial importance as El Moro and Trinidad are in the heart of one of the greatest coal and coke regions in the west, and the agricultural and pastoral industries of the plains are of large proportions. From Cuchara Junction the stations occur in the following order: Tuna, Rouse Junction, Santa Clara, Boaz, Apishapa, Barnes, Chicosa, and El Moro. El Moro is worthy of special mention because of its extensive coal mines and coking ovens; the latter are 500 in number, and the greatest in the State. The town derives its name from the great butte (El Moro) which lowers a hove it, pre- senting a very striking object to the view. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 206 miles. Elevation, 5,879 feet.) This is the metropolis of southeastern Colo- rado, and the terminus of this branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Trinidad is the trade and money center for an immense territory, includ- ing portions of northern Texas, southern Colorado, and northern New Mexico. In natural resources, Trinidad is exceedingly rich, being the center of the largest coal belt in the world, and the supply depot for most of the coke used in the' Great West. In addition to coal and coke in the immediate vicinity, iron exists in unlimited quantities. The supply of gypsum, granite, alum, fire-clay, silica, grit, or grindstone, limestone, and the finest of building stone is absolutely inexhaustible. Trinidad, from the natural deposit alone, must of necessity become a manufacturing center of vast 93 TRINIDAD. Commercial and Manu= facturing City. Population, 8,ooo. Elevation, 5,994 feet. Distance from Denver, 210 miles. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 95 importance, and has already taken advanced steps in this regard. The manu- facture of cement, mineral paint, lime, and plaster (if pans, are all important indus- tries, while the production of building brick is very large in its proportions. Fire- brick and silica brick are an additional industry. In and around Trinidad no less than five thousand laborers are now employed, and this large and daily in< nos- ing number of men spend their money in Trinidad. The city has water works, gas works, electric light, street cars, and other metropolitan improvements. The schools and churches are very superior, while the business houses and residences are a credit to the city. Its elevation above the level of the sea Insures a delightful climate, free from malaria and other poisons common to lower altitudes, while the scenic surroundings are unsurpassed, Raton Peak and the distant range adding their grandeur to the beauty of the scene. Trinidad is a railroad center, with three great trunk lines in operation; is the most important wool center in Colorado, being the original market for 3,000,000 pounds, and is also a great cattle center and, for that reason, the largest hide and pelt receiving point in the State. Resuming the journey to Alamosa, the tourist returns to Cueliara Junction. A small town at the junction of the Xew Mexico and Trinidad extensions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The supporting industries are pastoral and agricultural pursuits. (Population, 200. Distance fn mi Denver, 169 miles. Elevation, 5,942 feet.) Walsenburg". A flourishing town doing a large business, both at home and abroad. It is surrounded by a fine pastoral country, and also derives revenue from agriculture. Coal is mined near here in large quantities. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, 175 miles. Elevation, 6,187 feet.) La Veta. A prosperous village surrounded by a pastoral country and in the midst of most beautiful scenery, being near the foothills of La Veta Mountain and the famous pass known by the same name. The Spanish Peaks are also in plain view to the east. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 190 miles. Elevation, 7,024 feet.) During the summer of 1S99 the line from Cuchara Junction via Veta Pass to Alamosa was changed from narrow to standard gauge, and in seeking easier grades and curves the famous " Veta Pass" and "Muleshoe Curve" were abandoned and an entirely new route followed over the range. The new pass is called La Veta Pass, and the scenery if possible, is superior to that of the old route. The road climbs in tortuous windings around the foot of gigantic hills covered with virgin forests of spruce and pint-. The view to the eastward is one of great extent and magnificent e. The plains stretch onward to the dim horizon line like a gently undulating ocean, from which rises the twin cones of the Wahatoya, strangely fascinating in their symmetrical beauty. Veta Mountain is to the right, as the ascent of the pass is made, and rises with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 feet above the sea. The stupendous proportions of this mountain, the illimitable expanse of the plains present a picture upon which it is a never-ceasing delight for tin- eye to dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its winding course, at last reaching the apex, glides into the timber and halts at the summit, 9,242 feet above the level of LA VETA PASS. Elevation, 9,242 feet. Maximum Grade, 211 feet to the mile. Distance Across Pass, 20 miles. 9 6 OVER THE RANGE the distant sea. The downward journey is past Sierra Blanca and Old Fort Gar- land and through that pastoral and picturesque park known as San Luis Valley, and rejoins the old roadbed at Wagon Creek Junction and continues through the fertile valley to Alamosa. The changing of the gauge of this piece of road has largely increased the business and shipments of the San Luis Valley, and enables the farmers and grain dealers to ship the wheat and other grains grown in the valley to the eastern markets in un- broken car-load lots. The line has also been made standard gauge to Creede, the famous gold and silver camp at the terminus of the Creede branch; and to Antonito, twenty-eight miles south of Alamosa, the junction point of the main line and the Santa Fc branch. BAKER'S PARK, SULTAN MOUNTAIN Wagon Creek Junction. At Wagon Creek Junction, one can say that the descent of La Veta Pass has been accomplished, although it is still down grade as far as Alamosa. This station is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at the western extremity of La Veta Pass. Good hunting and fishing can be found in the neighboring foothills. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 217 miles. Elevation, 8,271 feet.) Garland. This town was formerly known as Fort Garland, and was a United States miliatry post. Sierra Blanca, elevation 14,483 feet, the highest mountain in the United States with one exception, is seventeen miles distant. Good trout fishing and shooting can be found in the adjacent foothills. Garland's tribu- tary industries are agriculture and stock raising. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 228 miles. Elevation, 7,936 feet.) Sierra Blanca is the monarch of the Rocky Range, and is characterized by the peculiarity of a triple peak. The mountain rises directly from the plain SIERRA BLANCA. Highest Mountain of The Rocky Range. Elevation, 14,483 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 97 to the stupendous height of 14,483 Feet, ovei two miles and thr« -fifths of sheer ascent. A magnificent view of this mountain is obtained from the cars as soon as the descenl from La Veta Pass into the San Luis Valley has been made. Surely it is worth a journey across the continent to obtain a view of such a mountain' Although a pari of the range, ii stands at the head of the valley, like' a monarch taking precedence of a lordly retinue. Two-thirds ol its height is above timber-line, ban and desolate, and except foi a month or two of mid-summer, dazzling white with snow, while in its abysmal gorges it holds eternal reservoirs of ice. "O, sacred mount with kingly crest Through tideless ether reaching, The earth world kneels to hear the prayer Thy dusky slopes are teaching. With mystic glow on sunset eyes All trembling lie thy blood-red eaves, Their silken veins with gold inwrought, Oh, glorious is thy world-wide thought." The lower slopes of Lhe mountain are clad in vast forests of pine and hemlock, while its grand triad of gray granite peaks lift into the sky their sharp pyramidal pinnacles, splintered and furrowed by the storm-compelling and omnipotent hand of the Almighty. To the north and south, for a distance of nearly two hundred miles, it is flanked by the serrated crests of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the whole forming a panorama of unexampled grandeur and beauty. Sail LuiS Valley. This great and fertile valley is located in south- ern Colorado, bordering New Mexico, and is drained by the Rio Grande, one of the largest of Colorado's rivers, into which flows from the lofty mountain ranges surrounding the valley, almost numberless little mountain streams. This valley, which was once the bottom of a vast mountain lake, contains fully 10,000 square miles — equal to the entire area of Massachusetts. The soil is alluvial, from six to fifteen feet deep, and the surface is naturally well adapted for irrigation, which the rivers and streams in the valley are abundantly capable of providing. The park, or valley, as it is more frequently called, is from 7,000 to 7, ,}oo feet above sea level. This elevation insures a light, pure atmosphere, free from all malarial conditions, and especially favorable for those disposed to pulmonary affections. The climate is cool in the summer, and not severe in the winter — scarcely ever more than an occasional snowfall of two or three inches in the valley. Too much in praise of the attractions and beauty of the climate of the San Luis Valley cannot be said. The grand chain of mountains, which entirely surround the park, present scenery unsurpassed in the world. Spring wheat will yield from thirty to fifty bushels to the acre, oats from fifty to seventy-five bushels, peas from thirty to forty bushels, potatoes from two hundred to three hundred bushels to the acre; beans, cabbage, all kinds of root crops, including the sugar beet, are unexcelled anywhere. Hops do well; tomatoes and melons are grown, but with some effort. Corn, in consequence of the elevation, except for garden purposes, does not pay. Alfalfa — the clover of the mountains — docs well, yielding from four to six tons in two cuttings. Common red clover, timothy and red top do well. The native grasses, by irrigation, yield two tons per acre. All kinds of small fruit do exceedingly well. TO THE GOLDEN (.W'/'/L 99 Apples and cherries dc well, plums and pears may, but peaches cannot be grown as well as on the western .slope. Surrounding the valley, embracing the foothills and lower mountain ranges, is a range covering millions of aires, where cattle, horses, and sheep can feed for more than nine months in the year. The g] are more abundant and nutritious than upon the lower elevations. The stock so grazed upon these free ranges in the summer and fed upon the home farms in the valley in the winter, can be handled without hazard, and with certainty of profitable return to the farmer and large ranchmen. This is one of the most considerable towns ALAMOSA. Junctional City. Eating Station. Population, 1,500. Distance from Denver, Via La Veta Pass, 252 miles. Via Salida, 300 miles. Elevation, 7,546 feet. of the San Luis Valley. It is situated on the west bank of the Rio Grande river, and at the junction of the New Mexico. San Luis, and Creede branches of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The resources of the San Luis Valley have been described above, and it goes without saying that these resources are naturally tributary to the welfare of Alamosa. The town is well supplied with stores of all kinds, which carry large stocks of goods. Great quantities of lumber, hay, and grain, and farm produce generally, are shipped from this station, which also commands a large local trade. Within a short distance of the town a natural gas supply has been discovered, which only needs adequate development to make it an element of great prosperity to the city. There are, also, a large number of ever-flowing artesian wells near the city, which insure a never-failing source of pure water. The eating house at Alamosa, the Victoria Hotel, furnishes one of the best meals to be obtained anywhere, and has a wide-spread and well-deserved reputation. The scenery surrounding the town is grand, and the near proximity of the river makes it a favorite resort for sportsmen. Creede Branch. From Alamosa a branch of the Denver & Rio Grande extends up the valley a distance of seventy miles to the great hot springs at Wagon "Wheel Gap, and the famous gold and silver mining camp of Creede. The line passes through an exceedingly fertile agricultural country bang on both sides of the Rio Grande, and irrigated by the great canals taken out from the river. In the proper season of the year thousands of acres of wheat and oats, alfalfa, ami other farm produce can be seen growing in the greatest luxuriance on both sides of the track. Moilte "Vista, This nourishing town is an example of rapid growth and a proof of the self-sustaining character of the country. The surrounding country is full of coal, oil, and gas. Very rich mines are being developed (ore running from $1,000 to $2,000 per ton) in the mountains southwest of Monte Vista, which is located in the midst of 300,000 acres of the richest irrigable land with abundance of water to supply it. Monte Vista is a new, growing, enterprising prohibition town, and has a superior class of citizens. It is rapidly becoming an extra desirable residence locality. It has a first-class roller-process flouring mill, fifteen stores, two banks, a planing mill, three lumber yards, three weekly papers, three livery stables, large public library, an $8,000 school-house, a $75,000 hotel, seven church organizations, a secular Sunday society, secret societies, cornet band, etc. In the vicinity is one farm of 7,000 and another of 4,000 acres. The Colorado home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers and Sailors is located here. Some two hundred vet- erans occupy the magnificent building and surrounding cottages, enjoying, in their IOO OVER THE RANGE declining years, a well-earned respite from the turmoil of war. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 269 miles. Elevation, 7,665 feet.) Del Noi'te. This is the oldest town in what is known as the San Juan country, and is the county-seat of Rio Grande County. The town is so situated as to be on the line between the agricultural and mining sections. To the north and east of the town are the rich and rapidly settling agricultural and pastoral lands of the San Luis Valley, to the south and west are the great mines of San Juan. Del Norte is beautifully situated in a basin at the foot of the mountains, sheltered from the blasts of winter and having the most delightful weather in summer. The Rio Grande flows through the edge of the Del Norte town site, and offers to manu- CHIPETA FALLS. facturing interests exceptionally tine water power. Del Norte has some excellent business and dwelling houses, fine public school buildings, two good church build- ings — above the average — the Presbyterian College of the Southwest (a staunch educational institution), a line flouring mill of the latest roller process, a large brewery using home-grown barley, two banks, court-house costing $30,000, the United States land office, where all business regarding lands in this district must be transacted, and countless other enterprises that cannot be mentioned here. On Lookout Mountain, 600 feet above the town, is mounted a large telescope, to be used in connection with the Presbyterian College of the Southwest. The view from the Lookout observatory is grand in the extreme. The streets of Del Norte are wide and the town is noted for its growth of trees — mostly cottonwoods. Water for irrigating purposes is supplied by means of a main canal from the Ri<> Grande, with laterals over the town site along the sides of streets. Del Norte is certainly a very attractive town. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 2S3 miles. Elevation, 7,880 feet.) From Del Norte the line follows the river amidst most attractive scenery. South Fork is a small station on the river, and is a favorite stopping place for anglers. TO 1 HE GOLDEN GA II. IOI Wagon Wheel Gap Hot Springs. Distance from Denver, 312 miles. Elevation, 8,449 feet. The hot springs al Wagon Wheel Cap, together with the magnificence of the scenery, make it one of the mosl attractive pleasure resorts in Colo- rado. As the Cap is approached the valley nar- rows until the river is hemmed in between massive walls of solid rock, that rise to such a heighl on either side as to throw the passage into a twilight shadow. The river rushes roaring down over gleaming gravel or precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene becomes wilder and more romantic, until at last the waters of the Rio Grande pour through a cleft in the rocks just wide enough to allow the construction of a road at the river's edge. < )n the right, as one enters, tower cliffs to a tremendous height, suggestive in thier appearance of the palisades no the Hudson. ( ) n the left rises the round shoulder of a massive mountain. The vast wall is un- broken for more than half a mile, its crest presenting an almost unserrated sky line. Once through the gap the traveler, looking to the south, sees a valley encroai hed upon and surrounded by hills. Here- is the old stage station, a primitive and picturesque struc- ture of hewn logs and adobe, one story in height, facing the south, and made cool and inviting by wide-roofed verandas extending along its entire front. Not a hundred feet away rolls the Rio Grande swarming with trout. A drive of a mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals the famous springs. The medi- old and hot springs, have been UP THE RIO GRANDE, new scenic beauties, brings the tourist to cinal qualities of the waters, both of the thoroughly tested and proved to be of a very superior quality. Lieutenant Wheeler, I". S. A., gives the following analysis of these springs: No. 1 has a tem- perature of about [50 Fahrenheit, is bubbling continually, and is about eight feet wide by twelve feet long; No. 2 is a small bubbling spring, cold, and about one foot in diameter, and gives out a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen; No. ,; is situated some distance from Xos. 1 and 2, at the foot of a hill, it bubbles continually and Ls of a temperature of 140° Fahrenheit. This spring is about three feel wide and the same in length; it is called the' Soda Spring. In one thousand parts of the water of the springs of Wagon Wheel Gap are contained parts as follows: No. '? No. 3. Trai c Trai '?. 144-5° Tra< e. 3 1 -°° 5.10 Trace. 22 42 Tran-. 10.50 IS- 70 1 1.72 33-34 1.07 Trace-. 4.72 12.00 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 10; No 1. Sodium Carbonate 69.42 Lithium Carbonate Trace. Calcium Carbonate 14.08 Magnesium Carbonate- 10.91 Potassium Sulphate Trace. Sodium Sulphate 2 3-73 Sodium Chloride 2 9—5 Silicic Acid 5.73 Organic Matter Trace. Sulphuretted Hydrogen Trace. Total i5 2 -i 2 7 J -39 2jS -77 There arc two good hotels at Wagon Wheel Gap, one at the springs, anothei close to the station, giving ample accommodation for invalids and sportsmen. The Hot Springs Hotel, at the springs, has recently been rebuilt and refurnished, and is now in condition to furnish accommodations of the first (lass. The bathing facilities at the springs consist of a first-class stone bath-house, erected in iqo2 at an expense of $25,000 and is complete and modern in every detail. Alltelopo Springs. Twenty miles west of Wagon Wheel Gap, in Antelope Park, aie situated Antelope Springs, in a region which is becoming a great resort for sportsmen and abounding in fish and game. The waters of the springs are medicinal and resemble the more widely known mineral waters of the Gap, in that they are both hot and cold, and differ among themselves in their mineral constituents. The scenery is wild and beautiful. For a hunting partv, or as a place for a few day's outing in camp, no more pleasing spot can be found. Trout Fishing in the Rio Grande. There is no stream on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains that affords finer trout fishing than the Rio Grande. Trout reaching the wonderful weight of nine pounds have been fre- quently taken, and those weighing from one to three pounds can be caught in great abundance. This is undoubtedly one of the best fishing resorts in America. Ten miles beyond Wagon Wheel Gap on Willow Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande, is Creede, the famous mining camp. This camp was located but a few years ago, and is to-day one of the largest producing camps in the State, and has a population of two thousand. While Creede is known as a silver camp, it is not distinctly so. The ore in that district varies, and almost every property has more or less of a percentage of gold. The vein matter is so rich in the leading mines that even did they not contain gold they could be worked at a profit. But with I.i-ad- ville, so with Creede. The deeper the mines are going, the heavier the percentage of gold. This has been the invariable rule with the large producing properties, which, from the indications, will soon have enough gold to pay for their working. The camp is active and is progressing. A great deal of development work is going on, contracts being let for extensive work every day. New districts arc being opened up, revealing new formations and good paying ore. Tin properties that first brought the camp into prominence are continuing their large output. There are several good hotels in Creede, and the wayfarer will be assured of all modern comforts. CREEDE. Great Mining Camp. Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 321 miles. Elevation, 8,852 feet. Mg^W ALAMOSA TO ESPANOLA AND SANTA Ft HE New Mexico branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad extends southward from Alamosa to Santa Fe, passing through an interesting country to the tourist, especially after New Mexico has been entered. Here can be seen what remains of the ancient Spanish civilization, as well as the habitations of the Pueblo Indians and the ruins of the pre-historic Cliff Dwellers. Leaving Alamosa the road turns to the south and crosses the southern portion of the San Luis Valley. ,sa ^^^B EMBUDO, RIO GRANDE VALLEY. Liil Jar a. Within the last few years many new towns have sprung up in the valley, owing to the development of its agricultural industries, through the con- struction of great irrigating canals Old settlements have acquired new vigor and advanced greatly in prosperity. La Jara is one of the towns that lias received this new impulse. Its people are enterprising and industrious. Agriculture and io5 io6 OVER THE RANGE pastoral pursuits contribute to the town's success. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 266 miles. Elevation, 7,609 feet.) Romeo. This is a village seven miles south of La Jara and in the heart of a fine agricultural region. Antonito. This town is a thriving and prosperous place, the last one of any special importance on the railroad in the southern part of the San Luis Valley. Stock raising and agriculture occupy the attention of the surrounding population. There is a fine stone depot here, and there are many creditable business blocks. It is the station for Conejos, one mile distant; and for San Rafael, four miles distant. Its position in the heart of the San Luis Valley (for full description of which see OLD CHURCH OF SAN JUAN. Alamosa) insures it a generous and constantly increasing support from agricultural and pastoral industries. Being the junctional point of the Denver & Rio Grande- Railroad's New Mexico and San Juan branches gives it a large railroad business. Tourists will do well to stop at Antonito and visit the old Mexican town of Conejos, which is the most accessible town of the typical Mexican character in Colorado. Here may be found the plazas, churches, and ancient adobe houses peculiar to the early civilization of the Spanish. Fine fishing can be found near Antonito. Antonito itself is a modern town with all the life and push of the American, full of business and enterprise. (Population, 400. Distance from Denver, 280 miles. Elevation, 7,888 feet.) I'allllilltl is eleven miles from Antonito, and here the road enters the Territory of New Mexico and passes through a number of small stations of no especial interest to the tourist. As a matter of statistics, the names of these stations and their distances from Denver are given; Palmilla, 291 miles; Volcano, 299 miles; No Agua, 308 miles; Tres Piedras, 315 miles; Serviletta, 324 miles; Caliente, 336 miles; Barranca, 345 miles; Embudo, 352 miles; Alcalde, 360 miles; Chamita, 367 miles; Espanola, 371 miles. The traveler will notice that the names of the stations have assumed a Spanish form, and should he happen to address any of the swarthy men that chance to be lounging around the stations, he would very likely receive a reply in the language of Hispania. The Snanisb cjoken is * TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 107 A SOUTHERN UTE. Castilian by any means, but is about as near it as "pidgin English" is to genuine Chinese, being a mixture of English, Spanish, and Indian dialects. Barranca is a quiel little station in New Mexico, 345 miles from Denver, [ts only claim for special mention is the fact that here the traveler lakes the stage for Ojo Caliente, the celebrated hoi springs, which lie among the hills, eleven miles to the west- ward. Stages to and from the springs connect with passenger trains, making quick time over an excel- lent road. The altitude of the springs i^ 6,019 '" 1 ' l ' t and the climate at all seasons of the year mild and pleasant. The Springs have been noted lor their curative properties and from time immemorial, hav- OJO CALIENTE. Famous Hot Springs. Health and Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 6,019 feet. ioS OVER THE RANGE ing been frequented by the Indians previous to Spanish occupation and highly esteemed by both races since that date. They have proved remarkably suc- c( ssful in the treatment of rheumatism, skin diseases, derangement of the kidneys and bladder, and especially of all venereal diseases. Cases of paralysis, after resisting the usual appliances of medicine, have been sent to Ojo Caliente, and immediately and permanently relieved. The springs lie in a pleasant valley, nine hundred feet lower than Barranca, surrounded by high bluffs capped with basaltic cliffs. On the top of these cliffs are table-lands on which are found the ruins of prehistoric buildings, not unlike the Indian pueblos of the present day, but of which the Indians know nothing and even their traditions furnish no account. Four miles above the village are larger springs of tepid water, the mineral deposits from which have built up great mounds, full of strange caves and glittering with saline inc rustations. About three miles from Ojo Caliente is a high mountain called Cerro Colorado, from its peculiar reddish brown color, which, according to the statement of the inhabitants, ex- hibited marked evidences of vol- canic action about seventy years ago. It has a well-defined crater, and offers an inviting field for the investigations of the geologist. Comanche CanOll. Six miles below Barranca the train enters Comanche Canon. Through this canon the road makes its descent into the Rio Grande Val- ley. Rugged, difficult, and striking, the canon commands the admiration of the spectator. Through breaks in the walls can be caught glimpses of the valley and river, the noble Rio Grande beneath. Experienced travelers who have made the "grand tour" say that this scene resembles choice- bits in Switzerland. Ernest Ingersoll thus describes the- valley in his charming book, "The Crest of the Con- tinent": "Emerging from Comanche Canon, a bend to the southward is made along the western bank of tin- lower part of the canon of the Rio Grande. In many portions of this narrow valley, only about twenty miles in length, features of great interest to the eye occur, equaling the walls of Comanche, which was itself ignored until the railway brought it to the light. The river here is about sixty yards wide, and pours with a swift current troubled by innumerable fallen rocks. At times it is swollen and yellow with the drift of late rains, but in clear weather its waters are bright and blue, for it has not yet soiled its color with the line- silt which will thicken it between Texas and Mexico. On the opposite bank, near the level of the river, runs the wagon road that General Edward Hatch, formerly commander of the de- partment cjf Xew Mexico, cut some years ago to give ready communications between his headquarters at Santa Fe and the posts in the northern part of the Territory PUEBLO INDIANS. SANTA CRUZ. PUEBLO OF SAN JUAN. PUEBLO DE TAOS. HO OVER THE RANGE and in southern Colorado. This is the track now followed by all teamsters, but the old road from the south to Taos ran over the hills far to the eastward, passing through Picuris." Elllbiulo. At the mouth of Comanche Cafion stands an odd conical hill dividing the current of the river. Noticing its resemblance to a funnel the Mexi- cans called it Embudo, and the station here takes the same name. Embudo is chiefly important as the point of departure for Taos, whose remarkable pueblo is described further on. Espanola. This little village is of interest to the tourist because of its contiguity to ancient pueblos and the ruins of Cliff dwellings. Espafiola's tribu- tary industries are pastoral and agricultural. (Population, ioo. Distance from Denver, 372 miles. Elevation, 5,590 feet.) Places of Interest Near Espanola. Santa Cruz is a most interesting old Mexican town, situated on the Rio Grande del Norte, directly opposite Espanola. Its chief attraction is the ancient church erected in the sixteenth century, which contains several paintings and images sent over from Spain. The Pueblo of San Juan is situated on the Rio Grande, about four miles above Espanola, and one and one-half miles from the railroad. There are twenty-six similar Indian towns, nineteen of which are situated in New Mexico, and seven in Arizona. Nine of them are on the line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, or its immediate vicinity, viz.: Taos, Picuris, San Juan, Santa Clara, San Yldefonso, Pojuaque, Nombe, Cuyamauque, and Tesuque. The different pueblos closely resemble each other in construction. The dwellings are all built of mud-colored adobes, or sun-dried bricks, and are arranged so as to inclose a plaza or public square. The walls are from two to four feet in thickness, and the roofs are of timber, covered with dirt a foot or more in depth; many houses are two, and some even four and five stories, or rather terraces, in height, each successive story being set back some twelve or fifteen feet from the side walls of the next story below. The usual manner of entering these dwellings is by ascending a ladder outside the building to the roof, and through a hole descending to the interior by another ladder; though some, as a modern improvement, have doors cut through the side walls. This method was doubtless adopted as a defensive measure during troublesome times, when it was often necessary to convert the pueblo into a fortress from which to repel hostile invasions. Pueblo of Santa Clara. A few miles below the pueblo of San Juan is the pueblo of Santa Clara, just across the river from Chamita, a station on the Denver & Rio Grande line. Its characteristics are similar to those of the pueblos already described. The Pueblo de Taos. Thirty miles above Embudo is the Pueblo de Taos. This is considered the most interesting as well as the most perfect speci- men of a Pueblo Indian fortress. It consists of two communistic houses, each five stories high, and a Roman Catholic church, now in a ruined condition, which stands near, although apart from, the dwellings. Around the fortress are seven circular mounds, which at first suggest the idea of being the work of Mound Builders. On further examination they prove to be the sweating chambers, or Turkish bath, of this curious people. The largest appears also to serve the purpose of a council TO THE GOLDEN GATE. I I I chamoei and mystic hall, where rites peculiar to the tribe, about which they are very reticent, are performed. The Pueblo Indians delight to adorn themselves in gay colors, and form very interesting and picturesque subjects for the a nisi, especially when associated with their quaint surroundings. They are skilled in the manufacture of pottery, basket making, and head work. The grand annual festival in honor of San Geronimo (St. Jerome) of these Indians occurs on the 30th of September, and the ceremonies are of a peculiarly interesting character. All of these ancient pueblos are easy of access via the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, and abound in objects of interest dating back many hundreds of years NEW MEXICAN INDIAN LIFE. before the occupation of the country by the whites, and will fully repay the tourist for the time and expense necessary to visit them. Esp.mola to Sailtll Fe. From Espahola the line of the Denver & Rio Grande continues still further southward to the capital of New Mexico, one of the most interesting cities on. the North American continent, Santa Fe. En route one can catch a glimpse of the ruins of ancient cliff dwellings perched in the alcoves of the perpendicular bluffs which rise near the track. The journey is only a distance of thirty- four miles through a country presenting novelty to the eyes of those unfamiliar to sub-tropical scenes, but not of an especially startling character. The capital of the territory of New Mexico i-- the oldest city in the United Slates, there being evidence to show that it was inhabited as early as 1325, or nearly three hundred years before the pilgrim fathers landed on Plymouth Rock, and 167 years before the landing of Columbus. The city of Holy Faith is situated on both sides of the Santa Fe Creek. The streets are narrow, and the build- ings are almost all constructed of adobe, and only one story in height. The city is filled with antiquities, the most remarkable of which, perhaps, is the church of San SANTA FE. The Oldest Town in the United States. Commercial City and Health Resort. Population, 7,000. Distance from Denver, 405 miles. Elevation, 6,968. 112 OVER THE RANGE Miguel, built in 1582, and the Palace, erected in 1710. The city is free from malaria and excessive heat and cold, and from wind and sand storms. It is supplied with pure water and pure air from the mountains surrounding; it has delightful scenery beneath bright sunshine with glorious sunsets; it has trout in its streams, and game in the adjacent hills and mountains; the people are daily supplied at their doors with the freshest and choicest esculents of home production; and besides possessing wonderful health-giving properties, it is one of the most comfortable residence cities in the world. This fact is rapidly becoming known and appreciated, as wit- ness its growing popularity both as a summer residence for people from the South, and as a winter residence for people from the North, and as an all-the-year-round residence and sanitarium for people variously in search of health, comfort, pleasure, and business. Santa Fe is the chief money center of the Territory. It has two old and well established national banking houses, besides hundreds of thousands of dollars for loan in private hands. It has a live board of trade, the most able and distin- guished bar in the Southwest. The capital of the territory, penitentiary, and public buildings are of great beauty and value. A splendid agricultural, pastoral, and mining country is tributary to the city. (Population, 7,000. Distance from Denver, 405 miles. Elevation, 6,968 feet.) ' Mi'. Ir ALAMOSA TO SILVERTON. fiia £>^^Cfj | T Antonito the line branches, that to Espafiola and Santa be extend- ^^]B| (h ing due south and that to Durango and Silverton turning to the westward. The trip from Antonito to Silverton is one of great interest and abounds in scenic attractions. The road gradually climbs out of the valley of San Luis and up the eastward slope to the Conejos range of mountains. The line from Big Horn to Arboles is constantly among the hills, and the stations are either for the i onvenience of stockmen or shipping points for lumber, and while of commercial importance to the railroad, of little interest to the tourist. During the summer the Conejos Mountains furnish one of the finest ranges for stock in Colorado, and it goes without saying that these grass-carpeted hills and vales are fully occupied. The forest growth on the western slope is of a larger and more dense character than that of the eastern. Many sawmills have been here established, and the manufacture of lumber is a large industry. The climb to Chama is full of interest. The line pursues a tortuous course, following the convolutions of the hills and making the ascent up the less difficult grades of the gulches. IjOS r*ill«>s Valley. Describing a number of large curves around con- stantly deepening depressions, we reach the breast of a mountain, whence we obtain our first glimpse into Los Pinos Valley, and it comes like a sudden revela- tion of beauty and grandeur. The approach has been picturesque and gentle in character. Now we find our train clinging to a narrow pathway carved out far up the mountain's side, while great masses of a volcanic conglomerate tower over- head, and the faces of the opposing heights are broken into bristling crags. The river sinks deeper and deeper into the narrowing vale, ami the space beneath us to its banks is excitingly precipitous. AW' crowd upon the platform, the outer step of which sometimes hangs over an abyss that makes us shudder, till some friendly bank places itself between us and the almost unbroken descent. But we learn to enjoy the imminent edge, along which the train creeps so cautiously, and begrudge every instant that the landscape is shut out by intervening objects. To say that the vision here is grand, awe-inspiring, impressive, or memorable, falls short of the truth in each case. It is too much to take in at once. We are so high that not only the bottom of the valley, where the silvery ribbon of the Los Pinos trails in and out among the trees, and underneath the headlands, but even the wooded tops of the further rounded hills are below us, and we (an counl the dim, distant peaks in New Mexii o. Phantom Curve One cf the most striking scenes on the line of this ascent is Phantom Curve. Just after the side-track station of Sublette (306 miles from Denver) has been passed, the road makes a great bend around the side of a mountain; on the left rise tall monuments of sandstone, cut by the elements into weird and fantastic figures. Here is indeed a wild spot, with the valleys so deep be-low, the grotesque, red monumental ro< k^ around, the tall, shelving cliffs above. A mile beyond the Curve the railroad crosses the head of the ravine on a high »3 TO THE GOLDEX GATE. "5 TOLTEC GORGE, A Scenic Wonder. Depth of Gorge, 1,500 feet. Distance from Denver, 315 miles. bridge. From this point the track runs directly toward the valley, on a line almost at right angles with it, to where it narrows into a mere fissure in the rocks at Toltec Gorge. The approach to this greal si enic wonder (ire- pares the traveler for something extraordinar) and spectacular. A black speck in the distance against the precipitous surface of a frowning cliff is beheld long before Toltec is reached, and is pointed out as the entrance to the tunnel which is the gateway to the Gorge. As the advance is made around mountain spurs and deep ravines, glimpses are caught of profound depths and lowering heights, the black speck widens into a yawning porti ullis, and then the train, making a detour of four miles around a side canon, plunges into the blackness of Toltec tunnel, which is remarkable in that it pierces the sum- mit of the mountain instead of its base. Fifteen hundred feet of perpendicular descent would take one to the bottom of the gorge, while the seared and wrinkled expanse of the opposite wall confronts us, lifting its massive bulwarks high above us. " Fronting heaven's splendor, Strong and full and clear." When the train emerges from the tunnel it is upon the brink of a precipice. A solid bridge of iron and masonry, set in the rock after the manner of a balcony, supports the track, and from this coigne of vantage the traveler beholds a most thrilling spectacle. The tremendous gorge, whose sides are splintered rocks INDIAN ENCAMPMENT. and monumental crags and whose depths are filled with the snow-white waters of a foaming torrent, lies beneath him, the blue sky is above him and all around the majesty and mystery of the mountains. Garfield Memorial. To the left of the track, just beyond the bridge, stands a monument of granite. Curiosity is naturally excited at beholding this polished shaft, and the questions which arise as to its origin can be briefly answered as follows: On the 26th day of September, 1881, the American Association of TOLTEC GORGE. TO THE GOLDEN GA TE ) General Passenger Agents (thru on an excursion ovei the Denvei & Rio Grande Railroad), at the time President Garfield was being buried in Cleveland, held memorial services at the mouth of Toltec tunnel and since have erected this beauti- ful monument in commemoration of the event. Cumbres. This small station is on the summit of the Conejos Range, which we are now crossing, and, having passed it, we are on the Pacifii slope. (Distance from Denver, 330 miles. Elevation, 10,0151V. 1 Cliama. This is an eating station, where, in spite of primitive accommoda- tions, an excellent meal can be obtained. Large quantities of lumber, sheep, and wool are shipped from here, and the surrounding country is an excellent range for stock. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 344 miles. Elevation, 7,863 feet.) PUEBLO DE TAOS. Lumber tou. At this station will be encountered the first of the abori] to be met on this journey. They are the Jacirilla Apaches, whose agency build- ings are located at Dulcc, the next station beyond. This tribe arc particularly adept in weaving baskets and their handiwork bring fancy prices in the curio shops of Denver and elsewhere. Lumberton is the junctional point with the Rio Grande and Pagosa Springs Railway, extending northward a distance of eight miles to Edith, a lumbering town in the midst of magnificent forests. Train loads of fine lumber and timber are brought out daily. Lumberton has a population of several hundred, is 369 miles from Denver, and an elevation of 6, goo feet. Dlllce. White population, nominal; but this being the agencyfor the Jacirilla Apache Indians, man}' of their tepees will be seen in the neighborhood. (Distance from Denver, 373 miles, Elevation, 6,779 feet.) Pagnsa Junction. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, 39c miles. Elevation, 6,271 feet.) At tills poinl connects the Rio Grande, Pagosa & Northern Railway, which leads northerly a distance of thirty-one miles, through a region marvelously rich in line forests of pine and spruce to the famous resort of Pagosa Springs. Pagosa Springs, the far famed "big medicine" of the Utes, the greatest thermal fountains on the continent, are situated in Archuleta County, thirty-one miles northwest of 1'agosa Junction, on the New Mexico extension of the Denver &Rio Grande Railroad and reached by lh< Rio Pagosa Springs. The "Big Hedicine" of the Indians. Hot Springs. Health and Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 7,108 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 19 Grande, Pagosa& Northern Railway from the Junrtion. These Springs lie upon the northern bank of the San Juan River, at an altitude of seven thousand feel, and in a situation combining numerous advantages and attrai tions. To the north are the peaks of the San Juan range, east and wesl are the grassy plains dotted with immense pines, and farto the south the undulating prairie stret< lies into New Mexico. With such an environment, the Pagosa Springs must ere long gain the celebrity to which their medicinal qualities undoubtedly entitle them. The Indians having long been aware of the healing powers of these "great medicine waters," have, until recently, jealously guarded their possession. It is not surprising that these < hildren of the wilderness, who find relief from distress mainly from the medications of Nature, should deplore the loss of these powerful thermal waters. Within a basin seventy feet long and fifty feet wide formed from its own alkaline deposits, which are twenty or thirty feet thick, the water bubbles up at a temperature of 1 53 Fahren- heit. There are four other springs in the immediate locality, their similarity to the main source, as shown by analysis, suggesting a common origin. Upon a cold morning the steam which rises from these different springs can be seen at a distance of several miles. These purgative, alkaline waters, with the large excess of sulphate of soda, so much increased in medicinal virtue by the degree of temperature, would seem to designate Pagosa as the Bethesda for sufferers from calculus disorders, gravel with uric diathesis, rheumatism, and skin diseases, when alterative and de- pleting treatment is indicated. New bath-houses and hotels have been erected, and the tourist will find good accommodations here. The Pacific Slope. From Chama to Durango, the ride is down grade and through a most interesting country. Hills and valleys of great beauty, mead- ows covered with thick growing grass, forests of giant trees, arc some of the many attractions of this trip. Ig'liacio. At Ignacio the Ute Indian reservation is reached and the rude tepees of the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio de las Florida. Occasionally a glimpse can be caught of a stolid brave, tricked out in all his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it speeds by. Frequently there is quite a little group of these aborigines at the station, and they arc always ready to exchange bows and arrows, trophies of the chase, or specimens of their rude handiwork, in return for very hard cash. This thriving city is the county-seat of La Plata DURANGO. Metropolis of the San Juan. Population, 5,000. Distance from Denver, via Veta Pass, 452 miles. Via Salida, 500 miles. Via Ridgway, 539 miles. Elevation, 6,520 feet. County, Colorado, and is the commercial center of southwestern Colorado. . It is the market for the agricultural region of Farmington and Bloomfield, New Mexico, and the valleys of the Rio de las Animas, the Rio Florida, etc. Two miles below Durango is the wonderful "ninety-two feet thick" vein of coal, one of the largest in the State, and here arc, also, great coke ovens. All the surrounding hills are more heavily timbered than in any other part of Colorado. In addition to its many other resources Durango boasts of two of the largest smelters in the State, reducing from their native state the precious ores of the wonderfully rich mines of the entire San Juan. With two railroads in operation, and several in contemplation, and with its natural resources Durango will in time, and a very short time too, prove to be the metropolis of the Great Southwest. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 12] The famous Cliff Ruins, a description of which will be found further on, are reached from Durango, by the Rio Grande Southern Railroad to Mancos Station, thence by saddle horses or wagons. In a word, Durango is one of the most progressive towns in Colorado, and i- surrounded by a country of unexampled richness. Mining, agricultural and pastoral pursuits all contribute to her success; but besl of all her business men are alive, and by their liberality, generosity, and push insure a good future for the < itv. Farming-toil, Bloomfield, and Aztec are growing towns in New Mexico, just over the southern line of La Plata County. They are in the In ail of a large agricultural and stock growing district, and near many ruins of the homes of the ancient Cliff Dwellers. Trimble Hot Springs are reached nine miles above Durango. The spacious hotel stands within a hundred yards of the road to the left of the track. Here are medicinal hot springs of great curative value, and here, in the season, gather invalids and pleasure seekers to drink the waters and enjoy the delights of this charming resort. The water as it pours out of the rock is at a temperature of 120 degrees, and runs constantly in a stream three inches in diameter. Within two feet of it is another spiring flowing as much more in a stream of cold water. Bath-houses have been erected, and the hot and cold water can be mixed. The medicinal properties of these springs are beyond question. Four miles further up the Animas valley are the Pinkerton springs of warm water, closely resembling in properties those at Trimble's. Leaving the springs behind, the train speeds up the valley, which gradually narrows as the advance is made, the ascending grade becomes steeper, the hills close in, and soon the view is restricted to the rocky gorge within whose depths the raging waters of the Animas sway and swirl. Mag'llificeilt Scenery. From Durango, the metropolis of the San Juan, to Silverton, the scenery is of surpassing grandeur and beauty. The railroad follows up the course of the Animas River (to which the Spaniards gave the musical but melancholy title of "Rio de las Animas Perdidas, " or River of Lost Souls') until the picturesque mining town of Silverton is reached. The valley of the Animas is traversed before the canon is entered, and the traveler's eyes are delighted with succeeding scenes of sylvan beauty. To the right is the river, beyond which rise the hills; to the left are mountains, increasing in rugged contour as the advance is made; between the track and the river are cultivated fields and cosy farm-houses, while evidences of peace, prosperity, and plenty of are be seen on every hand. This beautiful canon has characteristics pecu- liarly its own. The railroad does not follow the bed of the stream, but clings to the cliffs midway of their height, and a glance from tin- car windows gives one the impression of a view from a balloon. Below, a thousand feel, are the waters of the river, in places white villi foam, in quiet coves, green as ocean's depths. Above, five hundred feet, climb the combing cliffs, to which cling pines and hem- locks. The canon here is a mere fissure in the mountain's heart, so narrow that one can easily toss a stone across and send it bounding down the side of the oppo- sing rock-wall until it falls into the waters of the river rushing through the abyss below. Emerging from this wonderful chasm, the bed of the gorge rises until the roadwav is but a few feet above the stream. The < lose, confining, and towering walls of rock are replaced by mountains of supreme height. The Needles, which ANIMAS CANON. A Gem of Beauty. Depth, 1,500 feet. Di.ctance from Denver, 470 miles. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 123 are among the most peculiar and striking of the Rockies, thrust their sharp and splintered peaks into the regions of eternal frost. Klk Park is a quiet little nook in the midst of the range, with vistas of meadow an 1 groves of pines, a spot which would furnish the artisl many a subject for his canvas. At the end of Elk Park stands Garfield Peak, lifting its summit a mile above the track. Beyond are marshaled the everlasting mountains, and through them for miles extends, in varying beauty and grandeur, the Canon of the Animas. Frequent waterfalls glisten in the sunlight, leaping from crag to crag only to lose themselves at last in the onflowing river. Emerging finally from this environment of crowding cliffs, the train sweeps into Baker's Park and arrives at Silverton in the heart of the San Juan. This thriving and picturesque little city is the rounty-seat of San Juan County, Colorado, and derives its support from the surrounding mines, which are scattered in every portion of the county. The output of the camp has swelled from an annual product of $40,000 to §2,000,000 in three years. From 600 to t,ooo tons of ore are shipped weekly from Silverton, and the product is constantly in- creasing. An industry of no small importances and which is rapidly assuming large dimensions, is the system of leasing mines, and it may be said that at least one-half of the producing mines are now being worked by lessees. Hundreds of prospects that are in a condition to ship paying mineral are now laving idle-, awaiting the arrival of thrifty miners to take and work them under this system. The scenery around Silverton is of the most beautiful and attractive character. En- trance to Baker's Park, in which the town lies, is made through the famous Animas Canon. Hid in a theater of hills, the picturesqucness of the surroundings cannot be adequately described. Sultan Mountain, one of the grandest of the San Juan Range, towers above the town; its summit crowned with snow from which descend innumerable rills, glittering like silver in the sunbeams. Three small railways, the Silverton, the Silverton Northern, and the Silverton, Cladstone & T Northerly radiate from the town to the various mining camps, of Eureka, Red Mountain, Ironton, Gladstone, and others situated in the vicinity of Silverton, and haul immense quantities of gold and silver ores to the main railway, and thence to the smelters at Durango. SILVERTON. Picturesque /lining Town. Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 497 miles. Elevation, 9,300 feet. DURANGO TO RIDGWAY VIA RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD. EAVING Durango via the Rio Grande Southern line, the tourist is whisked across the Rio de Las Animas up Lightner Creek, past the silver and gold smelters with their seething furnaces and smoke and dust-begrimed workmen, and shortly past the famous coal banks where the black diamond is dug from the bowels of Mother Earth, and from there hauled to the smelters where it is used for the reduction and refining of its more exalted, but not more useful brethren. Up through the valley the train speeds along among huge pines which thus far have escaped the woodman's axe, and which will be free from such invasion as long as Uncle Sam claims this particular spot as the especial reservation for the abandoned military post at old Fort Lewis. From Fort Lewis the line passes through seemingly endless forests of pine tree-, and after the reservation is passed an occasional saw-mill is sighted. De- scending the mountain into the valley, the beholder looks out on a broad expanse of fertile, well-watered country, surrounded on all sides by snow-capped moun- tains, and dotted with the rancheros of the hardy pioneer, who has been well repaid for his daring in locating in this far-away but beautiful valley, by its productive- ness, and now that the railroad, that greatest of all civilizers, has come, he has abundant opportunities for the disposition of his products. One of the most attractive portions of Colo- rado, to the scientist, antiquarian, and indeed the general tourist, is that part in which are found the cliff-dwellings of a long extinct race. Some of the most remarkable of these ancient ruins are situated in the Mancos Canon, but a few miles from Manci is station, and within a day's ride of Durango. A brief description of one of these will serve .1 .1 1 harai terization of all. Perched seven hundred feet The Cliff Dwellings. Relics of a Pre=Historic Race. Ruins Older than History. above the vallev, on a little ledge only just large enough to hold it, stands a two-story house made of finely cut sandstone, each block about fourteen by six inches, accu] ale lv fitted and set in mortar, now harder than the stone- itself. The floor is the ledge of the rock, and the roof the overhanging cliff. There are there rooms on the ground floor, each one six by nine feet, with partition walls of faced stone. Traces of a floor which once separated the upper from the lower storv still remain. Each of the stories is six feet in height, and all the room-, are nicely plastered and painted, what now looks a dull brick-red color, with a while band along the floor. The windows an- "T" shaped apertures with no signs of glazing, commanding a view of the whole vallev for many miles. < )ne of our illustrations shows a forti- fied watch-tower, indicating that these strange cliff-dwelling people were- prepared to resist assault. Traditions are few and of history then- is nothing concerning i-5 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 27 this lost race. Their ruined houses only remain, and some broken fragments of tin- implements made use of in war and peace. Researches are in progress com eming these extremely interesting ruins and new facts are being developed concerning their architecture; hut it is quite improbable thai any certain light will ever l>e thrown on their origin or history. To the south of Mancos station, within a day's ride, and easily accessible, are the principal ruins of the strange habitations of this extinct and mysterious rac< To those seeking curiosities and wonders, the great Canon of the Mancos, the Montezuma Valley, the McElmo Canon, the Lower Animas Valley, and the Chaco Canon are the wonderlands of the world. They contain thousands of homes, and a town of the ancient race of Mound Builders and "Cliff Dwellers," that has attracted the curious ever since the discovery of America. The Mancos Canon contains hundreds of these homes which were built and occupied thousands of years ago. Yet many of them are in a good state of preservation, and in them have been found many specimens of pottery and implements of husbandry and warfare. This canon is cut through Mesa Verde, a distance of thirty miles, and the walls on either side rise to a perpendicular height of two thousand feet. These cliff dwellings arc built in the sides of the canon, as shown in the illustration. Fif- teen miles farther west from the Mancos is situated the Montezuma Valley, where thousands of fine specimens of pottery have been found among the ruins of that ancient people. On the west side of this valley is the McElmo Canon, also full of the ancient homes of the "Cliff Dwellers." Thirty-five miles south of Durango, in the valley of the Animas, are some extensive ruins of the Aztecs, and fifty miles farther south are the wonderful ruins in the Chaco Canon. These ancient Pueblos are, without doubt, the most extensive and the best preserved of any in the United States. Of these Professor Hayden, in his report of the Geological Survey of the United States for the year 1866, says: "The great ruins in the Chaco Canon are pre-eminently the finest examples of the works of the unknown builders to be found north of the seat of ancient Aztec Empire in Mexico." There are eleven extensive Pueblos in this canon, nearly all in a good state of preservation, and their appear- ance indicates that they were once the home of fifteen hundred to three thousand people each. From the thousands of ruins of cities, towns, and families found throughout this great San Juan Valley, it is evident that once this great valley was the home of hundreds of thousands of this extinct race. That they were a peaceful and agricultural race of people is evidenced by the large number of their implements of husbandry and the specimens of corn and beans found in these ruins, besides irrigating ditches and reservoirs for the storage of water. MailCOS. The debarking point for the cliff ruins as mentioned above and the leading town of the valley. Shipping point for large numbers of cattle and sheep. (Distance from Denver, 490 miles. Population, 500. Elevation, 7,008 feet.) Leaving Mancos, the road winds up the sloping sides of a flat-topped mountain, and there on its summit, among huge pines centuries old, bubbles up a clear, cold spring of sparkling water, forming the stream that flows down through the beautiful Lost Canon, and which is called by the unpoetic name of " Lost Canon Creek." Lost Canon is a novelty in itself, as its sides are densely wooded and softly carpeted with a thick bed of moss and leaves, beautifully colored by millions of Colorado wild flowers whose delicate beauty is unrivaled. Emerging from Lost Canon the traveler is whirled up to the beautiful Valley of the Dolores River, with its many ranches and farms, past the town of the same TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 129 name. Off to the left, flowing to the eastward, comes bubbling down the mountain side into the larger river, the West Dolores, and no more famous or prolific troul stream exists than this. Dolores. One of the principal towns in Southwestern Colorado. It is the shipping-point for the southeastern part of Utah and from whence the gold hunters start on their prospecting trips to the canons of the San Juan and Colo- rado Rivers. (Population, 300. Distance frc.n Denver, 511 miles. Elevation, 6,957 feet.) Dolores Canon. Continuing on up the main river, the valley begins to narrow down, until we are once more within the walls of a canon which takes its name from the stream flowing through it. While this canon is not particularly deep, its natural beauties are manifold and are sure to make a lasting and delightful impression on the beholder. Rushing out of the canon the tourist is now landed at Rico. Kico is one of the most important mining towns of the State, whose mines dot the mountain sides, and whose product is packed to the cars on the backs of the ever patient and faithful burro, without which no mining camp can be complete. Rico ranks among the "cities of the first class" and has all the facilities and improvements of a town of ten times its population. Its principal industries are those connected with mining interests, though considerable agricultural country surrounc.i it. The town is located in what was at one time the crater of a large volcano. Precipitous mountains with poetic names arise upon all sides of it, gradually widening, until by describing a circle of their summits they appear as the top of a huge funnel. Among them is the famous Telescope Mountain, a freak of nature only to be seen to form a proper realization of the aptness of its name. The place has much of historic interest, as evidences of early Spanish dis- coveries are found on many sides. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Denver, via Ridgway, 443; via Durango, 547 miles. Elevation, 8,737 feet.) Lizard Head Pass. Leaving Rico, the line continues up the Dolores, which grows smaller and smaller, until it becomes a mere silver thread winding in and out among huge rocks and boulders. Thirteen miles north of Rico, and after climbing many miles of three and four per cent grades, the summit of the Lizard Head Pass is reached at an elevation of nearly 11,000 feet. From the sum- mit and to the left will be seen the Lizard Head, a peculiar rock formation capping a tall, bare mountain. This rock derives it> name from its resemblance to the head of a mountain lizard, though at the same time it may be said to resemble the shaft of some large monument. Descending the pass through the mountain gorges pver rushing mountain streams, one finds one's self at Trout Lake. No more graphic description of this sheet of beautiful blue water can be given than a verse from a poem by " H. H." "The mountains wall in the water; It looks like a great blue cup; And the sky looks like another Turned over, bottom side up." Here the sport-inclined tourist may spend a few days, for the lake is inhabited by thousands and thousands of mountain troul. Accommodations of a primitive. though wholesome character, can be obtained of the neighboring ranchmen. (Popu lation, nominal. Distance from Denver, via Ridgway, 427 miles; via Durango, 563 miles. Elevation, 9,802 feet.) TO THE GOLDEN GAIL. 131 Shortly after leaving Trout Lake, the famous Opllir Loop is passed. Here the skill of the engineer was taxed to its Utmost, for the track winds in zigzags down the mountainside, rushing through a deep cut here, over a mountain torrent and a high bridge there, darting around sharp curves, in and out of snowsheds, until on the opposite mountain and high above us is to be seen a line of freshly turned earth, which the knowing ones say is the track over which we have just passed. From Vance «JuiH'tioil a side trip of ten miles, which will repay the tourist, can be made to TelluruU', a mining town of some 3,500 inhabitants, nestling among snow- capped mountains, rising to stupendous heights, and rich in gold and silver. Like all the towns of the San Juan, mining is the principal resource of the city; at Tellu- ride are located some of the largest and richest mines in the country. (Distani e from Denver, via Ridgway, 423 miles; Elevation, 8,756 feet.) From Vance Junction the journey is continued down the San Miguel River, past Placerville, the debarking point for the famous Paradox Valley and the rich copper-mining district of the Blue and La Sal mountains, until the river leaves the rail, and again we commence to go up; this time over the Dallas Divide. This pass resembles Marshall Pass, though not quite so long. After reaching the sum- mit, the line runs down the eastern slope along Leopard Creek, high above it on the mountainside, giving a most magnificent view of the Uncompahgre Range to the south with its gentle slopes softly colored by the deep, dark foliage of dense pine and fir forests gradually rising until the mountains develop into a huge mass of shattered pinnacles, their topmost points covered with the everlasting snow. Ridgpway. This bustling little town is the northern terminus of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad, and its junction point with the Ouray branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The shops and headquarters are here, giving employment to a large portion of its inhabitants. A fine agncultural, as well as a very rich mining region, surround Ridgway, and give promise of making it a large and prosperous city. (Distance from Denver, 377 miles; via Durango, 613 miles. Population, i,coo. Elevation, 7,002 feet.) '., mA~ "A^ iT^^g CATHEDRAL SPIRE— OPHIR LOOP. SILVERTON TO MONTROSE. ^HE trip from Silvcrton to Montrose, across the intervening range of mountains, is not at all the difficult undertaking it looks to be. Here, blocking the way, is one of the most rugged and lofty chains of the great Rocky Mountain systems, which but recently only the adventurous prospector and his sure-footed burro (donkey) dared to cross; but now the journey has been rendered an easy accomplish- ment by the building of the Silvcrton Railway, from Silvcrton to Red Mountain, from which point comfortable stages carry the tourist a distance of twelve miles to Ouray, where the trip is continued by way of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The construction of the Silvcrton Railway was a task of great magnitude, and one remarkable feature about it is that it owes its existence to the enterprise and daring of one man, Mr. Otto Means, the "pathfinder" of the San Juan. The result has been one of the most remarkable achievements in engineering of modern times. The road has the same gauge as that of the Denver & Rio Grande, and like it finds no grade so stubborn as to be insurmountable. Taking the cars at the Den- ver &: Rio Grande depot, at Silvcrton, the ascent of the mountains is at once begun. There is no preliminary skirmishing along level ground, for Silverton lies at the bottom of a bowl-shaped valley, and the mountains rise round about on all sides to tremendous heights. With curves, whose sinuosity surpasses that of the serpent's trail, the railroad climbs up the gulches, until at the mining station of Chattanooga the track makes an almost perfect loop, the cars traveling several miles forward and the same distance back — and there lies Chattanooga directly beneath us! All that has been gained is altitude. This is equivalent, however, to a direct progress of a thousand feet, though it has taken a journey of fifteen thousand feet to accomplish it. At the summit of the range the railroad reaches an altitude of 11,235 feet, and the view is something to be remembered a lifetime. At one point of the descent it has been necessary to construct a switch-back reversing the course of the train, and yet continuing the descent. This switch-back is a novel applica- tion of engineering science, and is an exceedingly interesting piece of railroad work. The ascent and descent of Red Mountain by this wonderful railway, give the tourist not only an opportunity to behold the grandest of mountain scenery, bat also the privilege of witnessing on all sides the progress of mining operations, The shafts, shaft houses, tunnels, and "prospect" holes of mines in fact or in futuro, are to be seen on all sides. The mines of Red Mountain arc numerous, and several of them rank among the richest in the world. A Romantic Stage Ride. The stage ride forms one of the most attractive features of this most attractive journey. Lasting only three hours, pass- ing over the summits of ranges and through the depths of canons, the tourist will find this a welcome variation to his method of travel, and a great relief and recrea- tion. The old-fashioned stage, with all its romantic associations, is rapidly becom- ing a thing of the past. A year or two more and it will have disappeared entirely from Colorado. Here, in the midst of some of the grandest scenery on the conti- 133 x 34 OVER THE RAXGE nent, the blue sky above, and the fresh, pure exhilarating mountain air sending the blood bounding through one's veins, to clamber into a Concord coach and be whirled along a splendidly constructed road, as solid as the living rock from which it has been carved at an expense in some instances of $40,000 a mile, and as smooth as a city boulevard, is surely a novel and delightful experience. The scenery on this journey between Silverton and Ouray is of the greatest magnificence. This is especially true of this portion of the route traversed by stage. The Silverton and Ouray toll road has long been noted for its attractions in the way of scenery, the triangular mass of Mount Abraham's towers to the left, while the road winds around the curves of the hills with the sinuosity of a mountain brook. SIERRA BLANCA. Bear Creek Falls. The scene from the bridge over Bear Creek is one which once beheld can never be forgotten. Directly under the bridge plunges a cataract to the depth of two hundred and fifty-three feet, forming a most note- worthy and impressive scene. The toll road passes through one of the most famous mining regions in the world, and the fame of Red Mountain is well deserved, both from the number and richness of its mines. Before Ouray is reached the road passes through Uncompahgre Canon. Here the roadbed has been blasted from the solid rock wall of the gorge, and a scene similar in nature and rivaling in grandeur that of Animas Canor is beheld. This is one of the most beautifully situated towns to be found anywhere. Its scenery is idyllic. The village is cradled in a lovely valley, sur- rounded by rugged mountains. The situation of the town is thus briefly described in the Crest o) Ike Continent: "The valley in which the town is built is pear-shaped, its greatest width being not more than half a mile while its length is about twice that down to the mouth of the canon. Southward — that is, toward the heart of the main range — stand the two great peaks, Hardin and Hayden. Between is the deep gorge down which the Uncompahgre finds its way; but this is hidden from view by a ridge which walls in the town and cuts off all OURAY. The Gem of the Rockies. Health and Pleasure Resort. Elevation, 7,721 feet. Distance from Denver, 388 miles. Population, 3,000. BEAR CREEK FALLS. 36 OVER THE RANGE the further view from it in that direction, save where the triangular top of Mount Abrams peers over. Westward ere grouped a series of broken ledges, surmounted by greater and more rugged heights. Down between these and the western foot of Mount Hayden struggles Canon Creek to join the Uncompahgre; while Oak Creek leaps down a line of cataracts from a notch in the terraced heights through which the quadrangular head of White House Mountain becomes grandly discernible — the eastermost buttress of the wintry Sierra San Miguel. At the lower side of the basin, where the path of the river is beset with close canon-walls, the cliffs rise vertical from the level of the village, and bear their forest growth many hundreds of feet above. These mighty walls, two thousand feet high in some CHIEFS OF THE UNCOMPAHGRE UTES. places, are of metamorphic rock, and their even stratification simulates courses of well-ordered masonry. Stained by iron and probably also by manganese, they are a deep red maroon; this color does not lie uniformly, however, but is stronger in some layers than in others, so that the whole face of the cliff is banded horizontally in pale rust color, or dull crimson, or deep and opaque maroon. The western clitf is baie, but on the more frequent ledges of the eastern wall scattered spruces grow, and add to its attractiveness. Yet, as though Nature meant to teach that a bit of motion, — a suggestion of glee was needed to relieve the somberness of utter immo- bility and grandeur, however shapely, she has led to the sunlight, by a crevice in the upper part of the eastern wall that we cannot see, a brisk torrent draining the snowfields of some distant plateau. This little stream, thus beguiled by the fair channel that led it through the spruce woods above, has no time to think of its fate, but it is flung out over the sheer precipice, eighty feet into the valley below. 138 OVER THE RANGE We see the white ghost of its descending, and always to our ears is murmured the voice of the Naiads, who are taking the breathless plunge. Yet by what means the stream reaches that point from above cannot be seen, and the picture is that of a strong jet of water bursting from an orifice through the crimson wall, and falling into rainbow-arched mist and a tangle of grateful foliage that hides its further flowing." The town has one hotel of great magnificence worthy of a city of ten times its population, besides a good supply of other hostelrics of a less splendid character. Ouray is a health resort worthy of patronage by invalids, possessing hot springs of a fine medicinal character and abounding in attractions to divert the mind. Plenty of sport can be had about here. The mountain sheep and wapiti have not yet been killed off; deer and trout are abundant. The rides up the roads and trails to neighboring mines and mining camps, through valley and canon, and over moun- tain and mesa, are not soon exhausted, and the lover of botany or geology, or the student of mineralogy and mining, could scarcely find a finer held anywhere than in the neighborhood of Ouray. Ouray to MontrOSC Leaving Ouray, a ride of thirty-six miles, via the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, brings the traveler to Montrose, on the main nar- row-gauge line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, between Denver and Salt Lake City. Two miles from Ouray the country begins to become open and soon one is passing through farms and an excellent agricultural valley. En route one passes the confluence of the Uncompahgre and Dallas, and the mesas and terraces on either side abound with almost every species of game, deer, elk, mountain sheep, bear, and smaller animals. Ridjjway. Eleven miles from Ouray. The junction point with the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A description of this charming little city will be found elsewhere in this volume. -Further on, twenty-two miles from Ouray, you come to the old Los Pirios Agency, where Chiefs Douglas, Jack, Colorow, Piah, and other Indians who participated in the massacre of Thornburg and the Meekers, tested the nerve of General Hatch and his associates in 1879. The store-house, council chamber, etc., are still standing. The abandoned site of old Fort Crawford is passed twenty-six miles from Ouray, and live miles further on, one reaches the residence of Chipeta, the widow of Ouray, the dead Ute chief, who, during his reign, held the Utes in check, and was always the friend of the white man. At Montrose the tourist can again take the main narrow-gauge line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad and resume the trans-continental journey. TWIN LAKES. LEADVILLE TO DILLON. ROCKY MOUNTAIN BEAUTY SPOT. From Leadville a branch line of the widely radiating Denver and Rio Grande system extends over Fremont Pass to Dillon. The general direction taken by the line is to the northeast, with a deflection from Frisco to Dillon to tin' northwest. The Great Middle Park of Colorado lies to the north of Dil- lon, just over the range of the Williams River Mountains. The country between Leadville and Dillon is extremely moun- tainous, and mines of great value have been discovered in this region. The rail- road crosses the Park Range at Fremont Pass, and in the valley at the foot of the pass the Arkansas River has its sou ires'! The blue river heads on the Pacific slope near the pass, and the south branch is crossed by the railroad near the small station of Wheeler, the north branch is encountered at Frisco in the vicinity of which the two join and form the main stream, which empties into the Grand in the south- west corner of Middle Park. The ride from Leadville to Fremont Pass is one of great interest to lovers of 140 Ill 142 OVER THE RANGE the grand and beautiful in nature. The mountain ranges which surround the "Car- bonate Camp" are in plain view, and every turn in the road reveals new attrac- tions. This extension of the line is known as the Blue River branch. It is thirty- six miles in length, with its terminus at Dillon. The intervening stations are Bird's Eye, Alicante, Fremont Pass, Robinson, Kokomo, Wheeler, Frisco, and Dillon Source of the Arkansas. The line from Leadville follows up the Arkansas River, and here we have an object lesson in the growth of rivers. We see from what small beginnings great things in the way of -water courses grow. We see how a little brook which one could dam with a couple of shovels of mud may push its way along, "undermining what it cannot overthrow; sliding around the obstacle that deemed itself impassable, losing itself in willowy bogs, tumbling headlong over the error of a precipice or getting heedlessly entrapped in a confined canon, escaping down a gorge with indescribable turmoil, and always growing bigger, bigger, broader, and stronger, deeper and more dignified; till it can leave the mountains and strike' boldly across a thousand miles of untracked plain to 'fling its proud heart into the sea.' " Almost ''n the very springs of the river, where an amphitheatre of gray quartzite peaks stand like stiffened silver-gray curtains between the Atlantic and the Pacific, we curl round a perfect shepherd's crook of a curve, and then climb its straight staff to the summit of Fremont Pass. Through a charming valley the approach to Fremont Pass is made. A famous pass, with the historic name of him who has been called "The Pathfinder," although a later day has witnessed greater achievements than his among the Rocky Mountains. A journey here deserves the title of a pilgrimage, for from the summit of this pass the traveler can discern the Mount of the Holy Cross. The scene is one replete with vivid interest. Fainter and fainter grow the lines of objects in the valley, until at last the clouds envelope the train, and at the next moment the observer looks down upon a rolling mass of vapor through which the light strikes in many colored beams. The sublimity, of the scene forbids all thoughts other than those of reverence and rapture. "The snow-crowned monarchs of an upper world, Rugged and steep and bare, the mountains rise' Their very feet are planted in the skies; Adown their sides are avalanches hurled. "Time was when few and daring were the men Who might behold this pass that Fremont gained Through toil and danger, and its heights attained, Perils beset the long leagues down again. "Now all may come who seek, afar from crowds, The grand in nature, for we now engage The potent genii of this iron age, ' Fire, steam, and steel, and rise above the clouds!" The railroad crosses the pass at an elevation of about two miles above the level of the sea, and ranks among the highest railroad passes in the world. Mount of the Holy Cross. From the crest of Fremont Pass the traveler looks eagerly about and soon catches sight of the sacred symbol which gives name to the famous mount. The snow-white emblem of Christian faith FREMONT PASS. One of the highest Railroad Passes in the World. Elevation, 11,330 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. '43 gleams with bright splendor against the azure sky. The wayfarer at last realizes that he has reached the height "around whose summit splendid visions rise." This is one of the best points of view from which to behold this wonderful moun- tain, a more extended description of which will be found in the chapter entitled, "From Leadville to Aspen." Downward to Dillon. On the Pacific Slope are the mines which made this region famous. Moving on down the pleasant valley, whose level bottom is carbonate tinted, not with ore dust, but with an almost continuous thick- et of stunted red willows, we pass the Chalk Mountain mines, the Carbonate Hill district, Clinton Gulch where gold ore is alleged to be worth more attention than it is receiving, and so come to Elk Mountain and Kokomo. The ore found here is a hard carbonate, running about twenty-five ounces in silver and twenty- five per cent in lead, be- sides a third of an ounce in gold, which is carefully separated at the smelter. Much of it is so admirably constituted that it "smelts itself," — that is, it requires little or no addition of lead, iron, and other accessories to its proper fluxion. Con- tinuing the journey we lie- hold alluring pictures of mountains and canons, of belts of timber and pleasant uplands, of green meadows and sparkling streams be- loved of gamey trout and the haunts of deer and elk. This country is a paradise for the sportsman, and the rod and gun find ample range. Dillon is the terminus of the Blue River branch and is situated in a mining country. The station is the nearest point for the lower Blue River Valley, into which good roads extend. Saddle horses and wagons can be hired to go down this river into the hunting and fishing grounds of Middle Park. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 312 miles. Elevation, 8,859 feet.) CASCADES OF THE BLUE. OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO QGDEN. Railroad and r\anufac= turing Town. Population, 32,000. Elevation, 4,293 feet. Distance from Denver, via Harshall Pass Line, 753 miles. Via Standard OaugeLine, 778 miles. Distance from San Francisco, 883 miles. At Ogden the tourist changes from the line of the Denver & Rio Grande system to that of the Southern Pacific, both lines using the magnificent new Union Station. The train service of the two lines is continuous and no change of cars is necessary. A glance around will show one that Ogden is beau- tifully situated on the west slope of the Wasatch Mountains. It is well laid out and substantially built; the streets are wide, regular, well paved, lined with shade and ornamental trees, and lighted with electricity. By a good system of water works the mountain streams and springs are made to supply an abundance of pure water. Many of the private residences and grounds are very handsome, and the business blocks solid and ele- gantly constructed. Of the climate too much cannot be said. Utah claims the finest climate in the United States. Colorado makes the same assertion; so does California. There is no doubt that each of these great commonwealths has good grounds for its claims. Colorado and Utah have similar characteristics, while California is quite different; circumstances are said to alter cases, and this saying holds true in climate as well as in other matters. While the climate of Colorado or Utah might be a specific for one class of diseases, that of California might be much more beneficial for another class. The advice ot an intelligent and unpre- judiced physician should be taken before an invalid decides on his choice of loca- tion. In Utah the winters are short and mild, and the spring and fall months give almost perfect weather; the summers are warm, but not oppressively hot, and the nights are always cool and never moist. Pulmonary troubles will surely find relief, and generally a cure. Ten miles north of Ogden are Hot Springs, whose sulphur water possesses peculiar medicinal properties, and are pronounced superioi to the Arkansas Springs. Hundreds of invalids visit these springs annually, and they are steadily growing in popularity. The educational and religious advan- tages of Ogden are on a par with those of eastern cities of the same size. Here is the center of one of the richest agricultural and mining districts of Utah. Ogden has better railroad facilities than any other town in the territory. It is affection- ately called by its inhabitants the "Junction City of the West." It is the terminus of four leading trunk lines, namely: The Denver & Rio Grande, the Union Pacific, the Southern Pacific, and the Oregon Short Line. The outlook for manufacturing is excellent, the Weber Ri . er furnishing almost unlimited water power. A large dam across this stream a few miles from Ogden, provides water power for a large electrical power plant, and the electric current is transmitted to many manufacturing plants and mines and smelters. Iron ore is found in great quantities in the near vicinity, while the wool clip of the territory, and those of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana, and Nevada is enormous, and could be advantageously manufactured into cloth at this point. H4 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 145 Geological Features. Looking from the car window after passing Ogden, the traveler can see many things in this region indicating a thrilling geologi- cal history. That striation, extending along the side of the foothills to the right, marks the water-line of a vast, prehistoric inland sea known to geologists as "Lake Bonneville," that shrunk ages ago to the comparatively small proportions of the present Salt Lake. The whole area between the Wasatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevadas was once covered by this immense body of water, in which the mountain ranges rose as islands. The lakes of the present day are all that remain of this vast prehistoric sea. The deposits which cover the lowlands are chiefly calcareous, and are often filled with fresh water and land shells, indicating a comparatively modern origin. The formation of the islands and the shore ranges of Salt Lake is metamorphic, the strata are distinctly marked and highly inclined, but attaining no great elevation, being generally overlaid with sandstone and limestone of the carboniferous age, but partly altered, the former constituting the loftier eminence, in places it is rich in fossils, while in others it loses the granular character, and becomes sub-crystalline or threaded by veins of calcareous spar, the sandstones, from metamorphic action, taking the character of quartz. As the train advances, evidences of volcanic action become numerous. Corilllie. Between Ogden and Corinne the Bear River is crossed by a bridge twelve hundred feet in length. The town of Corinne has a good agricultural country around it, and wherever irrigation has been secured large crops have responded to industrious cultivation. The raising of stock, is also a tributary industry, and cattle do well on the surrounding excellent ranges, which are found in the greatest perfection north of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from Ogden, 24 miles. Elevation, 4,233 feet.) A small station surrounded by country covered with sage brush, and only worthy of mention for its history. At this point, on Monday, May 10, 1869, the Union Pacific Railroad, building west and the Central Pacific Railroad, building east, met. The junction was made, and the news flashed all over the world that the first great trans-continental rail- road of America had become an accomplished fact. The importance of that event cannot be overesti- mated, and to enumerate the results emanating from that meeting would be the task of a historian. An epitome of what that meeting meant can be best expressed by quoting that clever and quaintly humorous poem, written by Bret Ilarte, com- memorative of the occasion, under the title of WHAT THE ENGINES SAID. What was it the Engines said, Pilots touching — head to head, Facing on a single track. Half a world behind each back? This is what the Engine Unreported and unread : With a prefatory screech, In a florid Western speech, Said the Engine from the West, "I am from Sierra's crest; And if altitude's a test, Why, I reckon, it's confessed That I've done my level Koct " PROMONTORY. A Point of Historical Interest. H 6 OVER THE RANGE Said the Engine from the East . "They who work best talk the least. S'pose you whistle down your brakes, What you've done is no great shakes, — Pretty fair — but let our meeting Be a different kind of greeting. Let these folks with champagne stuffing Not their Engines, do the puffing " "Listen! Where Atlantic beats Shores of snow and summer heats. Where the Indian autumn skies Paint the woods with wampum dyes, I have chased the flying sun, Seeing all he looked upon. Blessing all that he has blest, Nursing in my iron breast All his vivifying heat, Ah his clouds about my crest; And before my flying feet Every shadow must retreat " Said the Western Engine. 'Phew'" And a long, low whistle blew. "Come now, rea'ly that's the oddest Talk for one so very modest — You brag of your East! you do? Why. I bring the East to you! All the Orient, all Cathay, Find through me the shortest way. And the sun you follow here Rises in my hemisphere. Really — if one must be rude — Length, my friend, ain't longitude." Said the Union, "Don't reflect, or I'll run over some Director." Said the Central, "I'm Pacific, But, when riled, I'm quite terrific, Yet, to-day we shall not quarrel, Just, to show these folks this moral, iluw two Engines — in their vision — Once have met without collision. That is what the Engines said, Unreported and unread; Spoken lightly through the nose, With a whistle at the close. Monument. Before Monument is reached the side track stations of Rozel and Lake are passed. At Rozel, the great Salt Lake is close to the track on the left, and at Monument, a point of the same name extends into the lake. Here we take our last view of the interesting and mysterious sea which has been our almost constant companion since leaving Salt Lake City. Before us stretches a vast, unfertile country, and here, if anywhere, can be found that makeshift of the easy going and old-fashioned geography — the "Great American Desert." Kelton. This little place is situated on the eastern edge of the desert, and here the water-trains of the railroad company obtain their supply of the aqueous flu'd and deliver to the stations to the westward on this division. Looking to the north the traveler will see the Red Dome Mountains, while to the southeast rises Pilot Knob, a prominent feature in the landscape. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 92 miles. Elevation, 4,225 feet.) 148 OVER THE RANGE Towns in the Desert. From Kelton to Toano the road traverses the northern edge of the desert, amidst a scene of general desolation. In a general way this unfertile region may be described as sixty square miles of alkaline sands, evidently a portion of the great ocean bed already referred to. Like the arid country, between Fruita and Green River, in Utah, through which we came, on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, which only needs irrigation to become fer- tile, this region is the counterpart. The stations on the desert are of no special interest, but as a matter of record may be named as follows: Ombcy, Matlin, Terrace, Bovine, Lucin, Tecoma, Montcllo, and Loray. The train has been ascending the grade, and from Kelton, with an altitude of 4,225 feet to Toano, with an altitude of 5,97c feet, we have made a net gain of 1,747 feet. The moun- tains to the south are the Toano Range, where mines have been discovered, and which gave a phenomenal output of ore some years ago, but concerning which, since that time, little has been heard. The great peak almost directly south, which has been our landmark for the last fifty miles, is Pilot Knob, rising to a height of twenty-five hundred feet directly from the plains. This Knob was the beacon of the early emigrant by which he steered his ship of the desert, knowing that near it lay Humboldt Wells, where plenty of water and grass could be obtained for his almost famished stock. ToailO. A little station marking the western verge of the desert, and the first stop after crossing the line from Utah into Nevada. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 183 miles. Elevation, 5,970 feet.) From Toano the ascent of Cedar Pass is begun. For ten miles the grade is upward, though not re- markably steep, the road rising 216 feet. The Cedar Pass Range is comparatively low and extends from north to south, the south fork of the Hum- boldt River flows through these hills. The Ruby Valley lies to the cast, and is sixty miles long by ten wide. The valley is occupied by farmers and is very fertile. There are a number of small lakes in the valley, among which may be mentioned Ruby and Franklin. Moores. This station occupies the summit of Cedar Pass. Snow sheds and fences, which can be seen here and for some distance beyond, testify to the fact that the elevation is such as to cause protection against the danger of snow block- ades. (Population, small. Distance from Ogden, 210 miles. Elevation, 6,165 feet.) Wells. The grade has been a descending one since we left Moores and the descent will be continued for nearly three hundred miles. The railroad com- pany has adopted the monosyllabic title of Wells for this station, but for nearly half a century this place has borne the popular title of "Humboldt Wells." Here the railroad repair shop and roundhouse are located, and the town consists of these and many other buildings, including good hotels. The trade of the Clover Valley, and the business of the mines at Cherry Creek, and Salmon River, together with extensive cattle raising on the nearby ranges, center at Wells making it one of the important towns of Eastern Nevada. In this vicinity, the emigrants in the old days of overland travel to California were wont to make their camp and recuperate their stock after the trying ordeal of the desert. The wells from which the place takes its name are very curious, consisting of circular openings in the ground varying in size, being from four to eight feet in diameter, and filled to the brink with water. CEDAR PASS. The Divide between the Desert and Hum- boldt Valley. Highest Elevation, 6,186 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 49 No bubbles arise on the surface of the water, which trickles off through the grass and sinks into the porous soil. It is said that the wells have been frequently sounded and no bottom found. The water is somewhat brackish. There are aboul twenty of these pools in the little valley, and their life-giving influence can be seen in the abundant growth of grass. Because of these pe< uliar pools Wells is a station of considerable interest to the tourist. (Population, 500. Distance from Ogden, 219 miles. Elevation, 5,631 feet.) Valley of the Humboldt. After the journey across the desert, the Valley of the Humboldt presents a most delightful appearance to the eyes of the traveler, who is considerably wearied by the constant view of sand and sagebrush. The valley is eighty miles in length and ten in breadth and is occupied by agricul- turists and stock raisers. The river which makes this section of the country fertile rises thirty miles northwest of Wells, and, flowing southwest nearly three hundred miles, empties into Humboldt Lake, which has no outlet. The railroad follows the river closely for two hundred and seventy miles and leaves it at Brown's Station, where one has a fine view of the lake. The railroad follows for the greater part of the way the north side of the river, while the old emigrant trail, parts of which can yet be seen, pursues its course on the opposite side of the stream. Tulasco, Bishops, Deeth, Halleck, Peko, Osino, are all small side track sta- tions, useful to the residents of the valley and to the railroad, but of no especial interest to the tourist. After passing Peko, the railroad crosses the north fork of the Humboldt River and at Osino a canon of the same name is entered, and we leave behind us the pleasant valley of the Humboldt. Elko. This is one of the largest towns on the line since leaving Ogden. It is the county-seat of Elko Count}' and is well supplied with churches, schools, business blocks, and comfortable residences. It is also the seat of the state uni- versity. Elko is an important shipping point for stock and for the output of the Eureka, Tuscararo White Pine, and Cape mines, all being within a radius of from twenty-five to one hundred miles. Beyond Elko some ten miles the South Fork of the Humboldt joins the river on the south, watering along its course an excellent grazing country. (Population, 1,000. Distance from Ogden, 275 miles. Eleva- tion, 5,066 feet.) Carlill. Between Elko and Carlin is the small station of Moleen. Some hay meadows intervene and the road passes through Five Mile Canon, when' the tourist will behold some rugged scenery. Carlin is the divisional terminus of the railroad, and here engines and crews are changed. Gold and silver mines within a radius of twenty miles are tributary to the town. (Population, 200. 1 >istan< e from Ogden, 299 miles. Elevation, 4,905 feet.) Twelve Mile Canon. The road pene- trates the range of mountains (which trends from north to south) by way of this canon. The walls rise on either side in rugged grandeur attaining in places a height of a thousand feet, from the pecu- liar stratification of the rocks resembling that of the famous ro< k walls of the 1 ludsoii, this canon has been called the Palisades of the Humboldt. Red ("lit! is a striking promontory in the midst of the canon, stained with rubescent colors and rising above the track for more than five hundred feet. Palisade. This little town nestles in the heart of Twelve Mile Canon, The Palisades of the Humboldt. Height of Walls, 1,000 feet. Objects of Interest, Red Cliff and Devil's Peak. 150 OVER THE RANGE and is the junction point of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad with the Southern Pacific. The former road is a narrow gauge and was built mainly to convey ore and bullion to the great trunk line. Eureka, its terminus, is a mining town of about six thousand population, engaged principally in mining. Here are stamp mills and smelters handling fifty tons of ore daily. Palisade is the site of the machine shops of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad and is the shipping point for the agricul- tural regions of Pine and Diamond Valleys, and for the silver and lead ores from Eureka en route to the smelters at Salt Lake. Beyond Palisade Station is Devil's Peak, an isolated projection on the south side of the river, rising from the water to the height of three hundred feet. (Population, 200. Distance from Ogden, 308 miles. Elevation, 4,843 feet.) ClUTO. A small station which stands at the lower entrance of Twelve Mile Canon, and is worthy of mention for this fact. Gravelly Ford. This place is entitled to mention because of its his- toric interest. It was here that the old California trail crossed the river. The "Ford" was often the scene of Indian raids, and the hardy pioneers and the abo- rigines more than once tried conclusions here, and the blood of both the white and the red man often stained the flow of the Humboldt. Beowawe. At this point the Humboldt forces its way through the Red Range of Mountains forming a natural "gate," which is the significance of the name Beowawe in the Indian tongue. Beyond the station the road passes through bottom lands covered with a thick growth of shrubbery, the willow predominating. To the south eight or ten miles lies Hot Springs Valley, taking its title from the hot springs which are found there in great number. These springs are inter- mittent in their flow, resembling in this characteristic, though in a lesser degree, the geysers of the Yellowstone. Beowawe is a station of no very great commer- cial importance, but possesses interest because of the peculiar features of the sur- rounding counlry. (Distance from Ogden, 326 miles. Elevation, 4,697 feet.) The Valley Reg'ion. To the north and south of the Humboldt and nearly opposite Argenta, are several valleys; among the most important is Paradise Valley — to the north — sixty miles long by ten miles wide, and settled by prosperous ranchmen. Eden Valley, also to the north, is twenty miles long by five miles broad, and thickly settled. Reese River Valley is to the south, of variable width, not wider than ten miles, and about seventy-live miles in length. The Reese River possesses the peculiarity of sinking into the sand before it reaches the Hum- boldt, and only in limes of great abundance of water dors it flow beyond the point of its subsidence. Battle Mountain. Important as a shipping station for the mining regions in the hills to the north and south; also the junction of the Nevada Central Railroad with the Southern Pacific. This is a narrow gauge, and its southern terminus is Austin, ninety-three miles distant from Battle Mountain, with a popu- lation of two thousand. The Nevada Central penetrates the rich mining districts of Galena, Pittsburg, Copper Canon, and many others, all contributing to its pros- perity. Battle Mountain takes its name from the range of mountains to the north of the Humboldt, between the Reese River and Owyhee ranges. (Population, 600. Distance from Ogden, 359 miles. Elevation, 4, 513 feet.) GrOlconda . Golconda has hot springs which in any Eastern State would attract invalids and pleasure -seekers by the thousands. The benefits derived from the use of these waters has been proven, by many patients afflicted with rheumatism, nervousness and other diseases. Fine hotel is connected with the baths. Immense 152 OVER THE RANGE deposits of copper ore lie nearby and extensive furnaces have been built for their reduction. Fine ranches on the river and cattle and sheep ranges in the hills add to the importance of the town. (Population, 200. Distance from Ogden, 402 miles. Elevation, 4,391 feet.) WinneniUCCa. The town derives its name from a noted Indian Chief who made his home in this region. Winnemucca is the county-seat of Humboldt County and supports two daily newspapers, hne schools, churches, lodges, and many stores, shops, etc. Its trade reaches far into Oregon and covers stock-raising, mining, and kindred industries. The old town is in the lowland fronting the station, and is hidden from sight until you approach the bank and look over. (Population, 2,000, Distance from Ogden, 410 miles. Elevation, 4,330 feet.) Tlie Nevada Desert. We have now fairly entered upon the Nevada Desert, which we shall travel over to the westward until Wadsworth is reached, a distance of 135 miles. This stretch of country is the most desolate and the most uninteresting of any of the deserts crossed on the transcontinental journey. It is characterized by an almost total absence of vegetation of any kind, and by a remarkable distribution of scoria, the remains of extinct volcanic action. These deposits of black lava are scattered over a grayish expanse of sand, and are of a general cubical form, varying in size from that of a pea to that of a good-sized house. The railway stations between Winnemucca and Humboldt are Benin, Rose Creek, Lima, Cosgrave, Mill City, and Imlay. As the train stops at Humboldt, the passengers are surprised to see a beautiful little park filled with thrifty trees and carpeted with luxuriant green- sward. This oasis in the desert is the result of irrigation, and the fountain of cold, clear water that throws its rainbow-tinted spray into the air, tells the story as to how this magical transformation has been brought about. The charm of contrast is complete, and taking all things into consideration, I know of no place to be met with on the trip across the continent that the tourist will regard with more pleasure than the unexpected vision of this emerald of the desert. Star Peak, the highest mountain in the Humboldt Range, crowned with perpetual snow, can be seen only seven miles distant to the northeast, and it is a pleasure to learn that the desert gives way to the Lanson Meadows five miles to the northwest, from which large crops of hay are cut. Rye Patch. A small station, which derives its name from the fact that wild rye grows here in great quantities. There is in operation here a ten-stamp mill which is supplied with ore from the Eldorado and Rye Patch mining districts lying to the east within a radius of fifteen miles. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 470 miles. Elevation, 4,258 feet.) Oreana. A small station of no especial interest. A smelter is located here, and the widened expanse of the river at this point is owing to the fact that a dam has been thrown across it to secure water power. The railroad crosses the Humboldt five miles west of Oreana. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 480 miles. Elevation, 4,159 feet.) Lovelocks. This town has a brilliant outlook. Its alfalfa fields, its sheep and cattle market, the dozen mining districts tributary to it, insure the future of this valley town. There are many highly cultivated farms and gardens in the HUMBOLDT. An Oasis in the Desert. The Effect of Irriga= tion. Distance from Ogden, 459 miles. Elevation, 4,237 feet. The Lake Region. Facts Concerning Interesting Bodies of Water. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 153 vicinity. (Population, 900. Distance from Ogden, 493 miles. Elevati n 3,980 feet.") Browns. At Browns station the tourist has a good view of Humboidt Lake, as the road approaches it closely. The town itself is of minor importance (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 508 miles. Elevation, 3,933 feet.) 3Iirajfe. Side track station, deriving its name from the phenomenon peculiar to the desert, which has allured many an early emigrant to destruction through its deceptive influences. The green trees, the lake of bright water in which can be seen the reflection of surrounding objects, which the mirage presents to view, are only optical illusions, and those who left the beaten track to seek the refreshment apparently at hand frequently paid the penalty of their rashness with their lives. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 520 miles. Elevation, 4,247 feet.) A glance at the map of Nevada will reveal the fact that we have now reached what may very appropriately be called the lake region. These lakes have not the clear, sweet water which one generally associates with the term; but on the con- trary are brackish, and hold great quantities of alkali and chloride of sodium in solution. The most important of these lakes are: Humboldt Lake. This sheet of water takes its name from the river which flows into, or rather through, it; the fact being that the waters of the river are collected in this basin, and are then conducted further west into Carson Sink — or Lake. All the drainage carried in the channel of the Humboldt River, in its course of three hundred and fifty miles, is concentrated here; the surplus, as has been said, passing south into Carson Lake, which has no outlet. Humboldt Lake is thirty-five miles long by ten miles wide. Carson Lake. This lake, which receives the waters of the Humboldt River, through Carson Sink, is due south from Humboldt Lake, and has no outiet. The map shows two distinct bodies of water, namely: Carson Sink and Carson Lake; but during the prevalence of rain both are united, and cover a large extent of country. Carson Lake proper is twenty miles long by ten wide. Mud Lalve is situated north of Granite Point, some fifty miles. The famous "Black Rock" stands at the head of Mud Lake. This promontory is eighteen hundred feet in height, and a strong feature in the landscape. The name of this lake is especially descriptive of its peculiar characteristics, especially during the summer when the water is low and muddy. It has no outlet, and at its season of greatest enlargement is fifty miles long by twenty broad. WinuemUCCa Lake is of small extent, being about fifteen miles long by ten wide; it has connection with Pyramid Lake, which lies a short distance to the eastward. Pyramid Lake is made the receptacle of the waters of the Truckee River, the outlet of Lake Tahoe, and is about twice the size of Winnemucca Lake, being thirty miles long by twenty broad. AValker's Lake has no outlet. It is fifty miles long by twenty wide, and lies about a hundred miles to the south of Mirage. Hot Springs. A small station, taking its name from the springs which, send up the steam from their heated waters on the right of the track. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 535 miles. Elevation, 4,074 feet.) '54 OVER THE RANGE Desert. This is the last station in the Nevada Desert, marking its western boundary. From here the grade is an ascending one, and when Wadsworth is reached, nine miles beyond, the desert will have been left entirely. (Population, small. Distance from Ogden, 546 miles. Elevation, 4,020 feet.) Wadsworth. The tourist finds a pleasant greeting at Wadsworth, for on arriving at the station he sees a beautiful little park, neatly inclosed and orna- mented with a carefully Lept lawn and handsome shade trees. The park is not so extensive as that at Humboldt, but is none the less a delight after the long journey across the desert. The town is situated on the eastern bank of the Truckee River, and is prosperous and well built. Here are located the railroad shops for this division of the railroad, and considerable freight business is transacted with the mining camps situated to the south. The Truckee River has its source in lakes Tahoe and Donner, and is a pure and sparkling stream. Six miles sovith are the Pine Grove Copper Mines, while ten miles south are the Desert Gold Mines, tribu- tary to Wadsworth. (Population, 1,500. Distance from Ogden, 555 miles. Eleva- tion, 4,085 feet.) In addition to being the county-scat of Washoe County, Reno is a thriving business center. It possesses all the modern improvements, including electric lights. Its business blocks are well built and its public buildings creditable to the city. The State University is located here and the handsome buildings attract the attention of travelers. The town was named after General Reno, who lost his life in the battle of South Mountain. This is the junctional point for the Nevada, California & Oregon Railroad, a narrow gauge, leading northward into Lassen Countv, with a branch line into Plumas Count}'. Here, also, the tourist can take the Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson City, Virginia City, and points to the north and south. Condensing the statement of connections, they are as follows: Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson, Virginia, and Mound House, con- necting there with Carson & Colorado Railroad for Hawthorne, Belleville, Candc- laria, and Keeler; Nevada, California & Oregon Railroad for points north. Stages can also be taken to Eagle ville, Vlturas, Cedarville, and Lake View or Davis Creek. Reno possesses a lively interest to the traveler, as it is the junction point to the world -famed Comstock Mines. Car.SOll City is the State capital. It is a beautiful little city of about 2,500 people, lying in Eagle Valley on Carson River. Stages run from here to Lake Tahoe and other summer resorts in the mountains. The public buildings of Carson are creditable to the State. The United States branch mint is located here; the capital is in the center of a plaza, surrounded by an iron fence. There are good hotels, churches, schools, and daily newspapers. It is the oldest town in the State, is tastefully adorned with shade trees, and has an abundance of good water. It is the center of a large trade for all parts of southwestern Nevada and Mono and Inyo counties of California. Virginia City. This famous place is on the slope of Mt. Davidson at an elevation of 6,200 feet, built along the side of the mountain. It has one main street with many steep cross-streets. In its earlier days it was a vortex of immense activity and its mines under the city were treasure houses of wealth almost beyond reckon- ing. The Consolidated Virginia and California mines cleared each about $1,080,- RENO. Junctional Point. Distance from Ogden, 589 miles. Population, 4,500. Altitude, 4,497 feet. TO THE COLD EX GATE. 1 55 000 monthly for many months. The ( >phir also paid fabulous dividends (or years. Tin- produi ts of these mines at one time excited the world. The city has dei lined in population, but the mines are still yielding ore, and with modern machinery will have many years of activity. Climbing- the Sierra Nevada Range. After leaving Reno the grades grow steeper, and the traveler prepares himself for the grand and striking scenery which he will have the pleasure of beholding until the passage of the Sierra Nevada Mountains has been made. For fifty miles the ascent continues until Summit Station is reached, the highest point attained by the Southern Pacific Rail- road on its transcontinental line from Ogden to San Francisco. From Reno the road follows up the course of the Truckee River, and soon enters Truckee Canon. The course of the river is tortuous and the road quickly changes sides, giving varied and interesting views of towering rocks, foaming waters, and pine-clad mountains. In quick succession the following small stations arc passed: Verdi, Floriston, Boca. The country between Verdi and Truckee seems pretty well given up to the production of lumber, great quantities of ties, logs, and boards being piled beside the track. The river is used as a facile means of transporting these products of the forest. Ice store houses and paper pulp mills also abound here. Truckee stands at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the first station we reach after crossing the line between Nevada and California. The town is well built and extends mainly along the north bank of the Truckee River. Lumber is the leading industry, and where the town now stands, once stood a dense forest. It is estimated that the Truckee Basin will supply at least 4,000,- 000,000 feet of lumber, or enough to keep the sawmills going at their present rate for a hundred years. The roundhouse for this division of the railroad is located here. Truckee is the shipping-point for Donner Lake and the towns of the Sierra Valley. Stages can be taken for Lake Tahoe (fourteen miles), Donner Lake (two miles), and Webber Lake; also for Sierraviilc, Sierra City, and Plumas, Eureka Mine. (Population, 1,500. Distance from Ogden, 624 miles. Elevation, s,.Siq feet.) Lake TallOC "There is a grandeur and enchantment at all times in the scenery which environs the lakes of this region and never-ending means of pleasure and exhilaration on their waters; and the panorama of mountain and valley, meadow- land and woodland, sunshine and cloud, as viewed from Tahoe City is spacious, inspiriting and impressive. This view is an unspeakably line one; within the mag- nificent frame of the Tahoe range is Lake Tahoe, sometimes tranquil, sometimes turbulent, but always lovely. The summer sunsets on Lake Tahoe are remarkable for their great beauty and wealth of coloring and are grander than those mirrored on Lakes Como and Maggiore. No painter would ever dare to put upon canvas the variegated colors of Tahoe's waters in a summer sunset. It would appear such an exaggeration that he would lose caste among those who demand that tin artist's pencil shall be true to nature. None but those who have witnessed the scene would be persuaded of its reality. Such beauty could not be were it not for the highly reflective qualities of the pure translucent waters which serve- as a polished mirror of French plate-glass." Such is the glowing language of a much traveled author, whose words, though eloquent, fail of depicting the entranc- ing loveliness of the scenes which one can here behold. Hut it is no refle< tion upon the descriptive powers of any writer to say that he has fallen short of the reality. Surely if these scenes are beyond the powers of the artist, no discredit can follow- when the writer's pen fails to attain to the full measure of their grandeur and beauty. ^ OVER THE RANGE Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful moun Jain lakes in the world, lies in the heart of the Sierras, 6,280 feet above the sea, while mountain peaks surround it, rising to an additional height of from two to four thousand feet. It is 23 miles in length, 13 miles in breadth, and from 100 to i,8oo feet in depth. Its waters are famous the world over for their crystal purity, and their transparency is so absolute that the fish, which abound in great numbers, can be seen distinctly as they swim beneath you, at a distance of eighty feet. On its lovely shores are situated some of the most delight- ful summer resorts. The mid-summer air is cool and invigorating, the hunting and fishing excellent, and the landscape picturesque and a never-ending delight to the eye. It is reached from Truckee by the Lake Tahoe Railway or by stage. The ride by stage from Truckee to the lake, is a most charming experience, and is thus described by Mr. N. II. Chittenden, a traveler of some distinction: "It was a glorious morning bright and cool, a rain having fallen the previous evening, tempering the dry moun- tain air fragrant with the sweet odor of the pines, to a delicious, exhilarating fresh LAKE TAHOE. The "Gem of the Mountains." Distance from Truckee, 15 miles. Length of Lake, 23 miles. Breadth of Lake, 13 miles. Depth, 1,800 feet. LAKE TAHOE. ness, and also effectually laying the dust. It is a magnificent drive, following uo the dashing Truckee, a fitting outlet for the world's crowning gem of mountain lakes. From thirty to fifty feet in width, clear as crystal, pure and cold, it courses swiftly down the mountains, frequently a foaming rapid, but interrupted in its headlong descent by several dams. The valley is from three-quarters to a mile across, the mountains generally not precipitous or very high, though presenting /() THE GOLDEN GATE. »57 several bold, towering granite cliffs and peaks from five hundred to one thousand and eight hundred feet above the river. The most prominent of these, from their resemblance to the human face, are known as the 'Old Woman' and 'Old Man' of the mountains, and the ' Duke of Wellington.' Thick forests of red, yellow, and sugar pine, fir, and cedar, extend the whole way, except where cleared by the lumbermen. The great saw-mill companies arc annually cutting millions of feet of the choicest trees, having already advanced about eight miles up the river and back three or four miles therefrom. The lumber flumes extend from the great mills at Truckec to the farthest camps, and the sides of the mountains are grooved with log chutes. Down the former are run vast quantities of wood and timber, JONNER LAK while down the latter immense logs are shot, with the velocity of thunder- bolts, into the river. At the Eight-Mile Crossing, a five-foot monster plunged in as we passed, striking a forerunner fairly endwise, with terrific force, and the noise of distant thunder. Horse railways and long ox teams are also empl iyed in hauling out the logs from over the summit of the mountains." The tour of the lake is made by an excursion steamer which is taken at Tahoe City. The surroundings of the lakes are picturesque in the extreme. Beginning at the right, the coronet of mountains, which surrounds the lake, may be named as follows: the Rubicon Peaks, 9,287 feet above the sea; Mount Tallac, 0.715 feel in height; Mount Ralston, 9,140 feet; Pyramid Peak, 10,052 feet; Job's Peak, 10,637 f eet ! Geneva Peak, 9,135, and the summits of the Tahoe Range. Down the steep, forest-covered sides of these mountains swiftly descend numerous beautiful streams, Ward's Creek, Blackwood's, McKinney's, Phipp's, Meek's Bay, Lonely Gulch, Cascade Falls, Cascade Lake, Taylor, Little Truckee River, Big Truckec River, Jim Small's Creek, Sevory Cove Creek, Glenbrook, Secret Harbor, Big, Griffin's, Cornelian Bay, and Gordon's Creek being the most important. 158 OVER THE RAXGE The shores of Lake Tahoe are indented with beautiful bays, Crystal, Corne- lian, Mceks, and Emerald, the latter being the largest and most frequented. It is about eighteen miles from Tahoe City, three miles long, and about half a mile in width. Ben Holladay built a summer residence here, which his family occupied until it w T as burned in 1879. Captain Dick, an eccentric old English sailor, chose this wild mountain retreat for his home, built a cabin, and chiseled out a tomb in the solid rock, on the lonely rock-bound island near the entrance. Falling overboard, while intoxicated, Lake Tahoe, which it is said, never gives up its dead, became his last resting-place, in- stead of the grave he had prepared. The shores of the lake are dotted with summer residences and pleasure resort villages. Among the latter may be mentioned Tahoe City, Glenbrook, Tallac, Rowlands, and McKinneys. Glenbrook is a very pretty village and is the business centre for Lake Tahoe. The thousand and one attractions of this lovely lake can obtain but little justice in so brief a description as can be given here; indeed, the most elaborate description would fall far short of the reality, and only he who has had the extreme good fortune to visit the spot can form an adequate idea of its charms. Donner Lake. Made memorable by the terrible fate of the Donner party, thirty-four of whom died of starvation on its shores in the year 1846, and taking its name from the leader of this unfortunate company, Donner Lake commands especial attention for its historical associations. Its beauty gives it a, leading position among the Lkes of the Sierras and has been made familiar through the well-known paintings by Bierstadt. Onlv three miles from Truckee, it is easy of access. It is about three miles long, one and a half miles wide, and two hundred and fifty feet deep. Its shores are gravelly and the lake is surrounded by great forests of pine, fir, and tamarack. "Webber Lake, a perfect gem, lies in the Sierra Xevadas, about twenty- six miles from Truckee, at an altitude of 6,925 feet above the sea level. It is cir- cular in shape; its waters crystal white, and with a depth of eighty-four feet. It is considered one of the finest fishing grounds in California, the trout being large and numerous, gamey, and delicious. About three-quarters of a mile away from the lake are the falls, having a descent of 105 feet. Independence Lake, sixteen miles from Truckee, and ten miles from Webber, is another one of those beautiful gems. It is two and one-half miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide. Its waters are alive with trc ut. Climbing the Sierra Nevada Range. The ascent of the Sierras begins at Truckee. In order to protect travelers from delay in inclement weather, the railroad company have constructed an almost uninterrupted line of snow- sheds for forty miles. These sheds interrupt the view, but they serve an eminently practical purpose and are necessary for winter travel. Through the loopholes cut in the sides of the sheds the tourist catches tantalizing glimpses of magnificent scenery. Donner Lake can be seen below us, gleaming like a diamond in its granite setting, while a panorama of pine-clad hills and splintered mountain pinna- cles is spread before us. Plunging onward through the snow-sheds, the two great engines drag the train upward, while below can be seen the winding roadway we Donner, Webber, and Independence Lakes. Waters of Crystal Whiteness TO THE COLD EN GATE. 1 59 are ascending. Rumbling through a tunnel the train comes to a halt on die highest railroad point in the Sierras. Appropriately named, this station is the sum- SUMMIT. The Highest Rnilroad Point in the Sierra Nevadas. Elevation, 7,018 feet. Distance from Ogden, 638 miles. mil of our railroad ascent. For many vears it held the pre-eminence as the highest railroad point in North America, and it still deserves renown as the first to lay claim to so lofty an estate. This is the "divide" from which How various streams through devious courses to empty at last at widely divergent points into the great Sacramento. Among these streams are the Bear, the American, and the South Yuba Rivers. The scenery around Summit is of the grandest description. The mountains tower above us to an altitude of ten thousand feet. Lakes lie below us and waterfalls glimmer down the sides of dis- tant precipices. Here the sportsman can find ample scope for enjoyment. Bear and deer and a vast variety of game haunt the wooded fastnesses and the streams abound in trout. The east-bound tourist, who wishes to visit Lakes Tahoe and Donner can take the stage at Summit, and, after enjoying the delights of the moun- tain drive and an unobstructed view of the sceneiy, together with a satisfying visit to the lakes, can again resume his journey by taking the cars at Truckee, thus avoiding the up-grade return to Summit. Cascade. Six miles beyond Summit we pass Cascade, crossing a branch of the Yuba River. To the westward lies Summit Valley, a charming spot for a sum- mer resting-place. It is well watered and abounds in luxuriant meadows, which are utilized by stock and dairy men, who have found here an ideal spot for their purposes. Cascade is a growing shipping-point for cattle and their products. (Population, nominal. Distance from Ogden, 644 miles. Elevation, 6,645 feet.) Soda Springs. Many large soda springs give their name to this side track. Their waters are pleasant to the taste and medicinal in character. One of the springs has been improved and its waters are bottled for shipment. There are also hot springs in the near vicinity. (Population, small. Distance from Ogden, 647 miles. Elevation, 6,749 feet.) Emigrant Gap. Here we catch the last sight of the old emigrant wagon road, which we have seen from time to time for the last two hundred and fifty miles. (Population, 200. Distance from Ogden, 660 miles. Elevation, 5,225 feet.) Blue Canon, Shady Run, Towles, and Alta are small stations which we pass in rapid succession. Rlltcll Flat. Population, 700. (Distance from Ogden, 675 miles. Eleva- tion: 3-595 feet -) Historic Ground. To the "men of '40" the names of Alta and Dutch Flat call up many memories of stirring times. The stages still run from Dutch Flat to "You Bet" and "Little York," where mines are still worked; but the palmy days made historic by the achievements of the "John Oakhursts, " "Sandy McGees, " and "Hank Monks" have passed away. A glimpse can be caught of a scenic attraction of paramount interest as the train passes Shady Run. This is the famous American Canon, with walls two thousand feet high, and of such wonderful perpendicularity that the American River, which flows between them, has never been ascended for a distance of two miles — the extent of the canon. CAPE HORN. A Scenic Wonder. 1 60 OVER THE RANGE There are few mountain passes more famous than that known to the world as "Cape Horn." The approach to it is picturesque. The north fork of the American River is seen raging and foaming in its rocky bed, fifteen hundred feet below and parallel with the track. A little further on we see the north fork of the North River leap- ing in snowy cascades down the mountainside. The train rolls on and soon is clinging to the side of a mountain wall, which climbs to the clouds above it and drops to the waters beneath; a hand thrust from the window of the car could drop a stone straight as the plummet falls, into the chasm, two thousand five hundred feet below. We are rounding Cape Horn! The road having been carved from the solid rock, the workmen, when building the same were suspended from the cliff above by means of ropes until they had blasted sufficient to gain a foothold. A beautiful valley lies beneath us to the left, and across this vale on the opposite side can be seen the line of road on which we shall soon appear. The descent now begins, and Rice's Ravine is crossed, the trestle bridge being 878 feet in length and 113 feet in height. The narrow gauge railroad, which we see beneath us, is the line from Colfax to Nevada City. From the trestle we pass to an embankment, and from the embankment to the solid roadway on the side of the bluff. We have followed the curving road until now we are opposite the tremendous precipice, from whose fearful height we have but just descended. Colfax. Named after the statesman, Schuyler Colfax, a steadfast friend to the Southern Pacific Railroad during the early days of its existence. This town is thriving and prosperous. Fruit raising has taken the place of the original industry of mining, and the financial results appear to be eminently satisfactory. There is a large and handsome depot erected at this place, it being the distributing point for Grass Valley, Nevada City, and a large area of agricultural and mining country- The trains of the Nevada County Railroad (narrow gauge) run to and from this depot. (Population, 700. Distance from Ogden, 689 miles. Elevation, 2,422 feet.) Auburn. The approach to Auburn is made through a rugged country, a tunnel seven hundred feet in length being passed just before reaching Clipper Gap — beyond this can be seen the famous gold-fields, now abandoned. The town of Auburn is embowered with fruit trees, is well built and prosperous, having first- class hotels, good water, electric lights, street railway, and all "modern improve- ments." Many of the residents of San Francisco and Sacramento spend a part nf their summers at this mountain town. Fruit raising has usurped the place of mining among these foothills of the western slope — vineyards, orchards, and vege- table gardens, are now seen on all sides. This condition of things exists all along the slope, and for a distance of twenty miles we pass through California's semi- iropical fruit belt. The quarrying of stone and stock raising are also important vndustries. (Population, 2,500. Distance from Ogden, 708 miles. Elevation, T ,36o feet.) Newcastle. Is situated in the midst of a rich farming region, and is an important shipping point for the Placer County fruit belt. Here are, also, a number of extensive canning and fruit drying establishments, with unlimited ca- pacity. The early citrus fruits are grown and shipped from this point. (Popula- tion. 500. Elevation, 970 feet. Distance from Ogden, 712 miles.) 1 62 OVER THE RANGE Leaving Newcastle we pass Penryn and Loomis, both of which are fast becoming famous as distributing points for the fruits of this fruitful region. Rocklill. This little town lies at the base of the foothills, and is fameH for the excellent quality of the granite found in its quarries. The roundhouse and machine shops of the railroad company, located here, are built of this material. The State House at Sacramento, and many of San Francisco's "sky scrapers," are erected of Rocklin granite. (Population, 1,100. Distance from Ogden, 721 miles. Elevation, 249 feet.) Roseville. This station is the junction point for the east side of the great Sacramento Valley and Portland, Oregon; it is here the "Shasta Route" of the Southern Pacific Railroad intercepts the main Transcontinental Line. (Popula- tion, 450. Distance from Ogden, 725 miles. Elevation, 163 feet.) The Plains Region. A glance from the car window, or a reference to the elevation of Roseville, given in the paragraph above, will show the tourist that the region of mountains and foothills lies behind him, and that the fertile plains of California have been reached. Broad expanses of gently rolling country greet the eye, dotted here and there with the round-topped, dark-foliaged live- oaks, which form strikingly characteristic features in the landscape. Here and beyond in the Sacramento Valley are the great wheat-fields of the State, famous in the past for their enormous yield and the magnificent scale upon which the raising of this cereal is carried on. Now, however, fruit raising is gradually usurp- ing this territory, and orchards and vineyards are frequently seen. American River Bridge. This bridge spans the current of the American River, and Sacramento is only three miles distant. (Distance from Ogden, 740 miles. Elevation, 49 feet.) As is the almost universal rule in the case of large cities one gets a very unsatisfactory view of the town from the railroad station. Several days can be pleasantly and profitably spent by the tourist in Sacramento. It is handsomely built and its shaded streets and flower-ornamented yards pre- sent an exceedingly attractive appearance. It has a complete system of electric street railways. Being the capital of California, the county-seat of Sacramento County, and the third commercial city in the State, it has a most prosperous present and promising future. More trains arrive and depart each day than in any other town or city in the State. Sacramento, being the geographical center, it is the great distributing point for California. Three-fourths of all the fruits shipped from this State each year are shipped from this point. It is at this place all the principal buyers and shippers locate for the purchase of fruits and vegetables. The Southern Pacific Company's shops (which employ from 2,000 to 3,000 men constantly, covering an area of twenty-five acres of land), the largest cannery and packing-houses in the State, a woolen mill, foundry, machine shops, etc., are located in Sacramento. For a manufacturing town, the location of Sacramento cannot be excelled. It is ninety miles from San Francisco, with which it is connected by numerous daily trains, and by river steamers. Many of its wholesale houses rival those at San Francisco in the amount of business transacted. It has fine wide streets lined with shade trees, manv substantial business blocks, elegant residences, and good hotels. The SACRAMENTO. California's Capital. Population, 35,000. Elevation, 30 feet. Distance from Ogden, 743 miles. FEBRUARY, SACRAMENTO VALLEY. VINEYARD, SACRAMENTO VALLEY. 164 OVER THE RANGE State Capitol, State Printing Office, State Agricultural Exposition Building (the largest west of the Missouri River), a Free Library, the largest Art Gallery (with one or two exceptions) in the United States, an Old Ladies' Home (where old ladies have the same care and attention, if not better, than they would have in their own homes), are located in Sacramento, the two latter were donated to the city by that most estimable and philanthropic of ladies, Mrs. E. B. Crocker. In fact, Sacra- mento is the great metropolis of the Sacramento valley. The first railroad in California, extending from Sacramento into El Dorado County, was formally opened on February 22, 1856. Work on the Central Pacific Railroad was inaugurated at Sacramento January 8, 1863, and the last spike was driven May 10, 1869. Sacramento is on the line of the California & Oregon, Western Pacific, Central Pacific, California Pacific, and Sacramento & Placerville Railroads. All these roads are of the Southern Pacific System. The Company's principal hospital is also located in this city. A line of steamboats runs to San Francisco on the Sacramento River and the bay, and another as far up the same stream as Red Bluff. The Sacramento River is spanned opposite the city by a railroad and wagon bridge, connecting it with the town of Washington, Yolo County; and the American River is bridged on the line of Twelfth Street, and also by a railroad bridge a short distance above. All the bridges in the county and all roads are free. The capital of California was permanently located at Sa< ra- mento February 25, 1854, and in 1869 the present capitol building was com- pleted, at a cost of about 83,000,000 The building is the finest in the state. In the Capital Park are also the exposition pavilion of the State Agricultural Society, and the State Printing Office, in which are printed, in addition to the usual work for the state, the text-books for use in the public schools. The State Agricul- tural Society has also an extensive park for the exhibition of stock, and one of the finest race tracks in the world. The State fairs are annually held in September. The Masons and Odd Fellows have each imposing temples, in which their lodge-rooms are located. The United Slates Government has erected a postomce building, for which an appropriation of $100,000 was made. The County Court House (formerly used for a state capitol) cost 8200,000; and a brick and iron hall of records has recently been completed at a cost of 850,000. The County Hospital, built on the pavilion plan, can accommodate one hundred and seventy live patients, and cost $75,000. The State Library contains some sixty thousand volumes; the Free Public Library, of twelve thousand volumes, with the two-story building in which it is contained, is the property of the city, and is maintained by a city tax. The order of Odd-Fellows maintain a library of about eight thousand volumes. The Crocker Art Gallery is also the property of the city. It is a brick and iron building, three stories high, and in it are contained some of the finest paintings and statuary, together with an extensive cabinet of minerals, the property of the State. Webster. Leaving Sacramento, and crossing the Sacramento river on a bridge 600 feet in length, the train passes through Webster, which is a suburb of the city. Beyond we cross a belt of swampy country known locally as "The Tules." The track is elevated above the danger of foods by means of embank- ments and a trestle bridge. Davis. This place is the junction with the main line of a branch passing through the west side of the Sacramento Valley to Tehama, the country round about being rich and fertile, and capable of producing an unlimited amount of -ruit, cereals, and vegetables. Distance from Ogden, 736 miles. Tremont, Dixon, Batavia, are soon passed, when we arr.ve at 166 OVER THE RANGE ELMIRA. Junction Point to Vaca and Capay Valleys. At this point the tourist will do well to take the side trip through the great Vaca and Capay Valleys. These valleys supply all the earliest fruits and vegetables. The soil is of surprising fertility, yielding bountifully of every crop with no necessity for irrigation. The climate is superb, it being a continual Indian summer the entire year. The health of the inhabitants, their industry, wealth, and prosperity, have all tended to make this place the most desirable for settlement. Semi-tropical and citrus fruits grow luxuriantly, and are of unusual size and lusciousness. These valleys are veritable gardens of Eden, and a continuous panorama of a beautiful and picturesque country. Van- den and Suisun are more or less important stations, but of no especial interest to the tourist. Having passed Suisun the waters of Suisun Bay approach the track, and at high tide ripple against the embankment. ? For twelve miles this bay is always in close proximity. Army Point. Distance from Ogden, 797 miles. This is the station for the headquarters of the United States army in California. Beilicia. Situated on the southern slope of the Suscol hills, Benicia extends down to the bank of the Sacramento River. This is the head of navigation for sea-going ships and is a very charmingly situated city. Benicia was at one time the capital of California, but is now a quiet residence town, with a number of large manufacturing interests to maintain its commercial importance. (Population, 3,000. Distance from Ogden, 800 miles. Elevation 10 feet.) Crossing" the Straits of Carquinez. From Benicia to Port Costa the journey is continued on the Solano, the largest ferry-boat in the world. This boat can transport at one time fifty-four loaded freight cars and consequently finds no difficulty in bearing our entire train, including the monster locomotive, safely across the straits, a distance of one mile, with an expenditure of little, if any, more than twenty minutes of time. To most, this experience is a novel one, and the cars arc quickly emptied by their occupants, and the tourists gaze delightedly at the broad expanse of waters and inhale gratefully the invigorating saline odors wafted from the neighboring ocean. The cars are run directly onto the boat and when Port Costa is reached the journey by rail is resumed. Port Costa. Here the sea-going ships can be seen lying close to the wharfs, and the tourist begins to appreciate the fact that his long journey to the Pacific coast is nearly completed. At this point the Southern Pacific's line to Los Angeles and the San Joaquin Valley branches to the southwest. Vallejo Junction. Vallejo lies across the straits a distance of two miles. At this junction a branch line runs to Napa and Calistoga, also to Santa Rosa. Pinole. Another town of wharfs and warehouses. Sixteenth Street, Oakland. This is the small station for the large city of Oakland. The great Bay of San Francisco lies to our right and beyond can be seen the spires of San Francisco. Oakland Mole. This marvel of engineering has been constructed for two miles directly out into the bay. At its terminus is an immense building containing waiting-rooms and all necessary accommodations for the convenience of the great army of travelers who disembark on the arrival of trains. All the passenger trains for the east, north, or south are made up at this depot, and here all incoming passen- gers leave their trains and are transported on magnificent ferry-boats to San Francisco. SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO. 5AN FRANCISCO. The Great City by The Golden Gate. Population, 450,000. The first view of San Francisco which the over- land tourist obtains from the bow of the ferry-boat that bears him from Oakland Mole to the foot of Market Street, is most enchanting. A city set on a hill, beautiful for situation, it commands attention and demands the most enthusiastic admiration. Nor does "familiarity breed contempt." The first pleasant impression is confirmed and deepened by every day's experience within the gates of this most hospitable and beautiful city. Fitz Hugh Ludlow, whose early death was a great loss to literature, if one may judge by the early fruitage of a tree too soon cut down by cruel frost, speaks glowing words, and true ones, of this city In the sea. He says: "To a traveler paying his first visit, it has the interest of a new planet. It ignores the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world. There is no snow. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no aphelion or perihelion in his custom; the thin woolen suit made in April, is com- fortably worn until April again. Save that in so-called winter frequent rain falls alternate with spotless intervals of amber weather, and that soi-disant summer is an entire amber mass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it there is no inequality on which to forbid the bans between May and December. In San Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature. The wealth of that great dram- atist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the poverty of dabblers in private theatricals — a single flat doing service for the entire play. Thus, save for the purposes of notes of hand, the almanac of San Francisco might replace its mutable months and seasons with one great, kindly, constant, sumptuous All the Year 'Round. Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are produced! Fruit enough, metarphorical, for the scientific man or artist who cannot make hay while such a sun shines, from April to November, must be a slothful laborer indeed. But, fruit also literal; for what joy of vegetation is lacking to the man who, every month in the year, can look through his study window on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his breakfast. Who can sit down to this royal fruit, and at the same time to apricots, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, rasp- berries, melons, figs, both yellow and purple, early apples, and grapes of many kinds." But aside from the claims of climate, which appealed so strongly to Ludlow, San Francisco has artistic and architectural claims that command respect and admiration, to say nothing of her vast commercial and mercantile interests. San Francisco has suffered greatly from fire in the past, but has always arisen from its ashes in renewed beauty. A condensed history of these great conflagra- tions may be of interest: December 24, 1849. First great fire. More than $1,000,000 worth of prop- erty destroyed. 168 TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 6g May 4, 1850. Second great fire. Three blocks of buildings consumed. Loss, $4,000,000. June 14, 1850. Third great fire. Loss, $5,000,000. September 17, 1850. Fourth great fire. An extensive area of comparatively inexpensive buildings destroyed. Loss, $500,000. December 14, 1850. Fire on Sacramento and Montgomery streets. Loss, $1,000,000. This is not gent-rally classed among the great tires. May 4, 185 1. Fifth great lire. Eighteen blocks entirely burned, and par'., of six others destroyed. The length of the burned district was three-fourths of a mile, and its width half a mile. Loss, $10,000,000, to $12,000,000. June 22, 1851. Sixth great fire. Ten blocks and parts of six others destroyed. Loss, $3,000,000. When the Oakland ferry-boat, a most magnificent steamer by the way, enters her pier, at the magnificent ferry depot, at the foot of Market Street, the traveler will find ample means of conveyance to any hotel. If of an economical turn of mind he can board a cable or an electric car, after running the gauntlet of vociferous "cabbies," and for five cents be carried smoothly and quickly to almost any part of the city; or, handing his baggage checks to one of the agents of the United Carriage Company, he can drive to his destination in considerable more "style," and at a mod- erate expense, the amount being determined by the distant shipped from this station— twenty million pounds last year. Peaches thrive' in the neighborhood and reach a high state of perfection in size and flavor. The town has most all the modern improvements. (Population, 2,200. Distance from San Francisco, 221 miles. Elevation, 311 feet.) Killjfsburj;-. This enterprising little town owes its prosperity to the fact that it is situated in the famous wheat belt. Here are to be seen big warehouses iS6 OVER THE RANGE for storing wheat, laige quantities of which are shipped from this station annually Soon after leaving the town, we cross King's River on a trestle bridge, the approach to which is made over a long, high embankment. (Population, 300. Distance from San Francisco, 227 miles. Elevation, 300 feet.) King's River, a large, clear body of water, rises in the Sierras to the northeast, and flows southwesterly in a broad and tortuous channel, irrigating a HOME, FRESNO. large scope of territory. King's River is the boundary line between Fresno and Tulare counties. Travel". This is a new town, showing evidence of prosperity and thrift, possesses a flouring mill, machine shops, planing mills and other business enter- prises of commercial importance. (Population, 250. Distance from San Francisco. 232 miles. Elevation, 291 feet.) GrOShen. The junction of the Goshen division, which extends a distance of sixty miles to Alcalde. (Population, 200. Distance from San Francisco, 241 miles. Elevation, 286 feet.) The Goshen Division. There are a number of small towns on this branch, as follows: Hanford, Armona, Grandeville, Lemore, Huron, and Alcalde. The land through which the road passes is very fertile, and prices for it range from one hundred and fifty to three hundred dollars per acre. Oil has been found on this line in paying quantities. Visalia. This town is the county-seat of Tulare County, and is situated to the eastward of Goshen, being connected with that station by means of a branch TO THE GOLDEN CAT]-:. 187 road. Its tributary industries are varied, and among them may be mentioned a condensed milk factory. The BCaweah River flows through Visalia and aids in irrigating this most fertile region. (Population, 3,500. Distance from San Fran- cisco, 254 miles. Elevation, joo feet.) Resources of Tulare County. The resources of this county arc- most varied, the plains and the mountains meeting here; hence, thi farming and fruit raising of the one are supplemented by the mining, lumber industries, and stock raising of the other. There are about two million and a half acres of territory in the mountains, about eight hundred thousand acres among the foothills, eleven hundred thousand acres of valley, and two hundred thousand acres in Tulare Lake and its surrounding "tule" lands. The mountains are covered with timber, and mines of gold, iron, copper, and zinc are worked. The foothills produce almost every variety of deciduous and citrus fruits, together with grapes — both wine and raisin. Ten miles beyond Goshen we come to Tulare, a thriving town of recent growth, with railroad roundhouse, shops, and good station building. This is a large shipping point not only via the rail- road, but by means of wagons to interior points. Wheat growing and stock raising are the principal industries, though wine, grape, and fruits do well. Irrigation in the Artesian Belt. The question of irrigation in California has been one of much vexation and exceedingly difficult of solu- tion. The supply of water has been so very limited that millions of acres of land, as fertile as any in the world if irrigated, and absolutely worthless without water, have lain fallow for years. Fortunately for California, it has b?en discovered that this lack of water can be supplied in many instances through the agency of artesian wells. In certain sections of the country these resources have been developed, and the result has been the establishment of what are popularly known as "artesian belts. " One of these zones extends from Caliente to Stockton, the greatest development being in Merced, Fresno, Tulare, and Kern counties, where many hundreds of flowing wells have been established. These wells are from 250 to 700 feet in depth, and an average well will irrigate about 150 acres of land. The capacity of each well can be largely increased by means of storage reservoirs. After leaving Tulare the derricks of artesian wr 11-bou rs can be seen on each side of the railroad in great numbers. Near Tulare is established one of the California experimental stations, where all manner of agricultural and horti- cultural products are tested and reported upon — fruits, seeds, and grain. Tipton is a small station of no very great importance, except from the fact that it is the shipping point for sheep, which are raised in great numbers in the surrounding country. Seven miles to the west lies Tulare lake, which is quite a large body of water, being thirty miles long by twenty-five miles wide, and abound- ing in fish and water fowl. Tipton is surrounded by a good agricultural country, and enjoys its full measure of prosperity. (Population, 400. Distance from San Francisco, 262 miles. Elevation, 267 feet.) Beyond Tipton are to be seen great numbers of windmills, used particularly for the work of irrigation. Immense groves of eucalyptus, or blue gum trees can be seen from the train. Pixley, Alila, Delano, and Famoso are small stations of minor importance. We cross the Kern River between Famoso and Bakersfield. TULARE. Commercial and Agricultural Center. Population, 4,000. Distance from San Francisco, 251 miles. Elevation, 282 feet. 1 88 OVER THE RANGE FaniOSO is the junction with the loop line swinging toward the Sierra foot- hills, which left the main line at Fresno. Bakersfield is the county-seat of Kern County, situated at the junction of the two forks of Kern River. The town has the usual complement of public and private buildings, paved streets, electric street railways, sewers, foundries, planing mills, packing houses, ice plants, etc., etc. It is surrounded by an exceed- inglv fertile country. Fourteen miles southwest is Kern Lake, seven miles long by four wide, while six miles farther is Buena Vista lake, a somewhat larger body of water. Irrigation has been brought to great perfection in this county, there being seven hundred miles of irrigating canals within its limits, the largest having a width of one hundred feet and a length of forty miles. The lakes, streams, and artesian wells furnish a bountiful supply of water. Twenty-five miles southwest of Bakersfield is the Kern County oil region, eight miles long by three miles wide. Bakersfield has, as may be seen by the above, a most productive country surrounding it. (Population, 8,000. Distance from San Francisco, 314 miles. Elevation, 415 feet.) McKittrick. A branch line runs from Bakersfield west to Olig, a shipping station beyond McKittrick; from Oil Junction a short line runs east to Oil City, and a third diverges from Gosford to Sunset, some miles south of McKittrick. These are oil districts, and what are known as the Kern fields have contributed much to the growth of Bakersfield. McKittrick is about 50 miles west, located in the low hills of the Santa Maria Mountains. It is a sterile region, once volcanic, the ground still broken and blackened as if recently the gas had broken up through the thin crust, giving vent to the pressure below. Jumbled piles of dried asphalt and hardened oil sand, and oil seepages, indicate the character of the deposits beneath the surface. Since the wells were sunk here, the yield has been continuous and abundant. The first drill was sent down in 1899. Keril River Oil Region. An old prospector who had seen the oil excite- ment in Pennsylvania, digging a well on the banks of Kern River, struck oil instead of water, at a depth of sixty feet. Now the region is a forest of derricks for miles, and while the wells have had to be driven from 500 to 1,000 feet, the yield of this Kern River district has been steady and with promise of permanence. An industry in itself, this fosters so many others as to be of incalculable value. Here are the raw materials; here is a great market opening; here is a climate that permits every branch of manufacture to be carried on all the year without the expense of heating operating rooms. The one thing lacking was cheap fuel, and now this is at hand. It means new life to the State. Factories are decreasing their expenses by its use; steamships and railroads are using it, and mine owners find it possible to work low-grade ore where oil can be used in place of wood for furnaces. The settlement of great tracts of rich land, and the building up of towns and cities, will be hastened by the discovery of oil. Naturally, Bakersfield is the metropolis cf the oil industry at the head of the great valley. Oil trains are constantly moving, earning great cylindrical tanks to the cities northward, and the growth of Bakersfield has been greatly accelerated. The rich farming and fruit country tributary, will maintain and increase what she has gained from having "struck oil." Caliente. This station is at the entrance to the famous Tehachapi Pass and is located in the embrasure of a deep and narrow canon, up which the train takes its difficult way. This is a shipping point for freight from interior points delivered to the road by wagons. It is also quite a stage station, stages leaving Caliente for Basin, Havilah, Hot Springs, Weldon, and Kernville. (Population, 50. Distance from San Francisco, 336 miles. Elevation, 1,290 feet.) TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1S9 The Famous Loop, Tehachapi Pass. Distance from San Francisco, 362 miles. Length of Loop, 3,795 feet. Altitude of Tunnel, 2,956 feet. Altitude of Crossing, 3,034 feel. Altitude Gained, 78 feet. cerning this famous pass, Mr " As the Sierra Nevada and peak of Shasta (41 24'), so in The twenty-four miles of journey up and down the Sierra Nevadas, at the point where the railroad makes the passage of this range dividing the broad valley of the San Joaquin and the desert of Mojave, is a most remarkable experience, and brings ln-fore our eyes the wonderful triumph of railway engineer- ing skill. It is alleged that three civil engineers of great reputation first undertook to survey a passage through these peaks and crags, and, after repeated attempts, declared the route impassable. A boy of twenty took up the work where his elders had forsaken it, and this miraculous railway path over and through the mountains is the result. Con- . E. McD. Johnstone writes graphically as follows: Coast Ranges in the north culminate in the great the neighborhood of Tehachapi Pass (35°), these two TEHACHAPI LOOP. Treat chains blend their distinguishing features of fern slope and icy crag, and are lost in an inextricable mass of jumbled up peaks of every c onceivable form and variety. Although nature has reared no such colossal masterpiece as Shasta in the welding of her great rock bands in the South, she has managed to throw up her earth-works in a manner so impregnable as to seemingly defy tin- art of man to penetrate. The physical features of this Tehachapi country (the lowest pass being 4,000 feet altitude) seemed to, and did for a time, baffle the shrewdest en- gineers, but finally the track, by doubling back upon, and crossing itself, by climbing, squirming, and curving, resulted in a success and gave us one of the most famous and dextrous pice es of railroad engineering in the world. " TelUK'hai>i Summit. The station at the summit of the pass is at an elevation of 3,964 feet, and is the highest point on this extension of the line. Sheep '•9° OVER THE RANGE feed on the grass, which is abundant in the valleys and gulches which surround the station. Descending' to the l>e.sert. For several miles the train rolls along on a level plateau on the summit of this range before the descent to the Mojave Desert is made. A small salt lake is passed, where abundance of the chloride of sodium, that important article of commerce, can be shoveled up from the bed of the lake, it being entirely exposed during the summer by the evaporation of its waters. Cameron is a small station passed about midway between the summit and Mojave, at the base of the range. Mojave is on the edge of the desert of the same name, and the water used is brought in pipes from Cameron, a distance of ten miles. This place is the junction of the Santa Fc railroad with the Southern Pacific. (Population, 400. Distance from San Francisco, 382 miles. Elevation, 2,751 feet.) The Mojave Desert. A desert isn't, as a general rule, much of an object of interest to travelers, especially to those who have made the transcontinental journey and experienced the monotony of the deserts of Utah and Nevada. How- ever, we must say this, that we found many things to interest us while traversing the famed sand wastes of Mojave. In the first place, there were the giant cacti or yucca palm, a sight novel to our eyes, and peculiar in and of itself. This cactus grows to the size of a tree, reaching an average height of twenty-five feet, and attaining very often that of fifty feet. Its diameter is often that of two feet, and sometimes even greater; with its spreading club-like branches, its trailing bark and peculiar form, the yucca palm is indeed an interesting feature in the landscape. Another attraction is the peculiar form of the buttes, which rise from the desert sands on every side. Varying in height from two to five hundred feet, grooved and channeled by the elements, they give variety and interest to the landscape. One must not neglect to mention the mirage as a third element of variety. We do not remember ever to have seen more complete or deceptive mirage effects than those of the Mojave Desert. Rosamond, Lancaster, Acton are desert stations of small interest. The Solidad Mountains tower to our right as Rosamond is passed, and we later on make our way through this range by means of what is known as the Solidad Pass, reaching an altitude of 3,211 feet. Newhall. This station is not very large but boasts a large hotel, capable of entertaining one hundred and fifty guests. From here may be plainly seen the San Fernando Mountains, exceedingly perpendicular, and rising to an altitude of three thousand feet. These mountains could not be passed until a tunnel 6,967 feet long had been made. In this vicinity are oil refineries producing about five thousand barrels of oil per day. The oil fields are but a short distance from Newhall. San Fernando Tunnel. From Newhall we ascend the grade through cuts until the tunnel is reached. The grade is one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile, and as we approach from the north in the tunnel, it is thirty-seven feet per mile, the grade on the south from the exit is one hundred and six feet, while the elevation of the tunnel is one thousand four hundred and sixty-nine feet. San Fernando. The valley of San Fernando bursts on our vision as we emerge from the tunnel, a land of orange groves and olive trees, the very opposite in character from the arid waste we have just left behind us. The town of San Fernando is quite a place, and growing daily in population. LOS ANGELES. The Metropolis of Southern California. A City of Tropical Magnificence. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 19 1 Through cultivated fields, past suburban residences we roll pausing for a moment at Burbank, only eleven miles from Los Angeles. Beyond this place we journey through villages dc facto, de jure or in futuro. There are plenty of lot stakes and the suburbs of Los Angeles will certainly be widespread, if they ever cover the ground now laid out. The valley of the San Joaquin has been passed. the heights of Tehachapi have been scaled, the desert of Mojave has been crossed, and we are here at last! From our cheery heights, as we approach the town we gaze on a scene of entrancing beauty. Mountain- girdled, garden-dotted city, lying on the slope of the San Gabriel Mountains, and watered by streams from the heights above, one hardly knows whether to call it a city of gardens and groves, or an immense grove and garden sprinkled with palaces and de- lightful homes. Health and prosperity seem to have made themselves the presiding deities of the place. We gratefully decide that we have arrived at a point where it were well to let the train, like the busy world it typifies, pass on and away, while we rest in this paradise — a home indeed fit for the angels — and while we bask in its sunshine, gaze at its mountain peaks, catch glimpses of the ocean, breathe the fra- grance of its roses and geraniums, or listen to its mockingbirds and nightingales, we unite many a time and oft in thanks to the kindly fate which led our steps to southern California and the City of the Angels. There is no city whose growth can be compared to Los Angeles — in fact, no city west of the Rocky Mountains can boast of such rapid improvements. Thousands have come to southern California simply to pay a visit, but soon become charmed with its wonderful climate and beautiful surroundings, so much so that they conclude to remain permanently in this land of sunshine and flowers. A great deal has been written of this section, but the half has never been told. With the greatest climate in the universe, the richest and most inexhaustible soil, the vast amount of valuable land in and around Los Angeles, it is no wonder that her present condition is so prosperous. The beautiful avenues extending away to the foothills on the east and to the ocean on the south, the orange groves within her corporate limits, the magnificent public and private buildings, all tend to make the Angel City a place of wonder. Main Street, one of the prin- cipal streets in town, is the dividing line for east and west; First Street the division for north and south. The wholesale houses are scattered along Los Angeles, Com- mercial, Aliso, and Requena streets, while the large retail establishments are to be found on Spring Street and Broadway, which are to Los Angeles what State Street and Wabash Avenue are to Chicago. The streets are wide, well paved, and bordered by composition and granite curbing. There are many beautiful parks within the city limits, and the ocean can be reached in less than an hour's ride, and by a dozen different steam and trolley lines. It may be stated that the much-abused word "climate" has doubtless been a powerful factor in producing grand results. Furthermore, the fact that hundreds of those who were deemed hopeless invalids on their arrival here are to-day enter- prising, energetic, and successful capitalists, merchants, manufacturers, farmers, and orchardists, attesting the effects of this sun-kissed land and health-renewing climate on the human system; and so long as there are any sufferers from the blizzards, cyclones, and other life-destroying elements east of the Rocky Mountains, just so long will southern California, and Los Angeles in particular, continue to receive 192 OVER THE RANGE thousands annually of the best citizens of the republic, until it becomes the most densely populated portion of the United States. Los Angeles is reached by the Southern Pacific railroad, via either its line through the San Joaquin Valley or via the beautiful Coast Line, in sixteen hours from San Francisco — distance, 482 miles — or by steamer. It is a most beautiful city, of 135,000 people, is growing rapidly, and is a commercial point of much importance, as well as the center of an agricultural paradise, it being the principal city between San Francisco and Kansas City on the transcontinental line formed by the connection at Mojave or El Faso. It is also the largest city between San Francisco and San Antonio, Texas, by the great "Sunset Route." The city has many elegant buildings, wide, clean streets, with electric railways. A day's ride over the lovely country surrounding Los Angeles, through miles of long, straight avenues of orange trees and thousands of acres of grapes, seeing every kind of semi- tropic fruit growing side by side with the more hardy fruits, both being in the greatest profusion and of the finest quality, will convince the traveler from almost any part of the earth that there is surely the paradise of America, if not of the world. No city in the United States has improved so rapidly within the past few years as Los Angeles. Nearly every one of the principal business streets have been paved with asphalt, and the main residence thoroughfares with asphalt or con- crete, thus making a drive equal to any avenue in the union. There are no im- provements which have been of more benefit to Los Angeles than that of pave- ment. The immense amount of daily traffic necessitated this movement, and there is scarcely a block within the corporate limits which is not in proper condition. Curbing has also received its share of attention, while the cement sidewalk is be- coming universal. The city has an almost perfect sewerage system, which requires an outlay of nearly $750,000. Los Angeles is essentially a city of schools. The public, high, and normal schools are supported by state taxation, and their doors are open to all. Besides, there are numerous universities, colleges, and academies. The majority of children, after obtaining an education in the public schools, by force of circumstances are com- pelled to take up the battle of life for themselves; but to those who thirst for deeper draughts at the fountains of knowledge, the higher schools await them. LOS ANGELES. SHORT TOURS ADJACENT TO LOS ANGELES. TO SAN PEDRO AND CATALINA. Florence. This pretty town, embowered in an abundance of shrubs avid fruit trees, is surrounded by well-cultivated and fertile fields. Here the line branches, the San Diego division extending to the left. (Population. 800. Distance from Los Angeles, six miles. Elevation, 151 feet.) CoiliptOll. This is the largest town on the division between Los Angeles and San Pedro. It is in the heart of an extremely well cultivated and productive fruit belt. Grapes, citrus fruits, and berries grow in great abundance. The yield is extraordinary, and is especially true as to small fruits, such as blackberries, straw- berries, raspberries, etc. (Population, Soo. Distance from Los Angeles, eleven miles. Elevation, 76 feet.) Ten miles beyond Compton evidences of our near approach to the grand old ocean begin to appear. Salt marshes begin to make their appearance, and the fer- tile soil gives place to stretches of shifting sands. Wilson's College. This is a Protestant institution of learning, eighteen miles distant from Los Angeles, situated on the site of the old Headquarters of the United States Military Department for southern California and Arizona, which was abandoned about twenty years ago and sold to private parties. About a mile beyond the college the junction for Long Beach is passed, and San Pedro, the rail- road terminus, is soon reached. San Pedro. This is one of the largest and best harbors between San Francisco and San Diego. It has over a mile of docks, with between eighteen and twenty feet of water at low tide. Ships receive and unload freight to and from the railroad cars direct, though from some ships, of great tonnage, the freight is taken by means of lighters. The government has improved the harbor to a great extent and the results have been fully commensurate with the expense incurred. Further extensive improvement, in the construction of a deep-water harbor, is now under way, and in a few years the harbor of San Pedro will be one of the best on the Pacific coast. The commerce of San Pedro is quite extensive. Sometimes as many as fifty ships can be seen riding at anchor or tied up to the wharf, busily engaged in loading or unloading freight. Great quantities of lumber are shipped to San Pedro from the great timber forests of the Puget Sound country, and all nations are repre- sented during the year by ships in this harbor hailing from every part of the world. Coal comes here from the upper coast and from England, and in the case of English vessels a cargo of grain is taken back. The history of San Pedro dates back to the earliest settlement of California, but as a port of any importance its growth began less than ten years ago. Before that time it was merely an open roadstead, and lighters carried all freight to and from Willmington. Santa Catalina. From San Pedro steamers plow the Pacific (in the summer 194 I9 6 OVER THE RANGE daily or twice a day) on a twenty-three-nv 1 2 trip to Santa Catalina Island, the great island resort of the Pacific coast, and but Liree and a half hours from Los Angeles. The fame of the island runs now where man can read. Avalon Bay and the Isthmus are ideal resorts. The twenty-two miles of island, mountain, cliff, valley, forest, peninsula, possess a magnificent scenic stage road, wonderful views, fine goat and quail hunting, winding trails, deep gorges, and water-falls, among the attrac- tions of the interior; yet perhaps the larger number of visitors find most enjoyment in or upon the water. It is a summer isle, with the surf beating on the rocky cliffs of the south and west coasts, and with the ocean sleeping in glassy stillness along the sandy and pebbly beaches to the north and east. In the bay of Avalon, children paddle about unattended in boats that they can- not upset. Indeed, everybody goes rowing and bathing here. There is no surf and no wind, and so clear is the water that all the wonderful vegetable and animal life on the bottom of the ocean may be seen through the bottom of a glass-bottomed boat, as if the water were of crystal. Seals (sea-lions), unmolested, clamber on the rocks. It is a wonderful fishing-ground, and on a summer morning a fleet of row- boats and naphtha launches may be seen outward-bound in search of the giant sea bass (reaching a weight of 500 pounds), the leaping tuna (gamiest of all fish), the frolicsome and plentiful yellowtail, the albicore, the barracuda, that philosopher's fish, the grouper, the white and rock bass, the halibut, and other denizens of the salty deep. An expert with the rifle hunts the flying-fish. In the height of the summer season, there are often 5,000 or 6,000 people on Catalina Island. There are a number of good hotels, but the tent villages, with their macadamized streets, and with rows of shade trees, arc very attractive, and here the crowd lives. The furnished tents are rented very cheaply, and, at the delicacy stores, dinners hot from the range, may be purchased less expensively than an in- dulgence in home cooking. Illuminations, nightly concerts in a fine pavilion, fol- lowed by dancing, a skating rink, and the unconventional social life that a respecta- ble company makes possible, make life very pleasant upon the Island. Long" Beach. We have already described the greater portion of the trip from Los Angeles to Long Beach in that portion of this book devoted to the journey from Los Angeles to San Pedro. We follow the same line in our excursion to the Beach as far as the junction, at which point our train takes the line to the left, and rolling along through a level country, encroached upon here and there by the salt marshes of the ocean, but passing many fertile and attractive spots, soon reaches Long Beach, the goal of our journey This popular resort is only twenty-five miles distant from Los Angeles, and can be reached in an hour's ride from the city. Elec- tric railways are in operation, and the service is frequent and rapid. Surf-bathing may be enjoyed here the year round, and the accommodations are complete in every respect. The beach itself is one of the greatest attractions of the place. The sands are left hard and compact by the retiring tide, and the drive along the margin of the ocean is undoubtedly the finest to be found anywhere on the California coast, long Beach has a wharf which extends a distance of 750 feet in the ocean, reaching water deep enough to float vessels of the heaviest tonnage by its side. Long Beach has already become a resort of great popularity, and the excellence of its beacn, its attractive scenery, and fine hotel combine to render this popularity greater every day. The trip from Los Angeles to Santa Monica, one of the famous bathing resorts of the Pacific coast, is not only justified by what one finds at the end of his journey, but also oy the pleasures enjoyed en route. The Southern Pacific Com- SANTA MONICA. The Long Branch of the Pacific. A Charming Sea=Shore Watering Place. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 1 97 pany runs four trains to the beac h each day — a distance of nineteen miles; and there are three electric lines, with frequent and rapid service. On Sunday the exodus to this famed seaside resort is something extraordinary. For three or four miles after leav- ing, we pass through suburbs of Los Angeles. Hand some villa residences, surrounded by beautiful and most attractive grounds, are to be seen on every side. At last, reaching the open country, we pass through a constant succession of vineyards and fruit orchards, until the near presence of the ocean is made known by refreshing saline breezes and the occur- rence of sand dunes and salt marshes. The train stops at a handsome depot, beyond which extends a large, well-kept, and beautiful park. It is difficult for one accustomed to the varying seasons of the lands across the mountains to com- prehend the fact that this beautiful park, with its luxuriance of sub-tropical vegeta- tion, its affluence of delicate and vari-tinted flowers, is never less verdant, less bril- liant, or less attractive than it is now. It is not easy to grasp the fact that all the year round, equally as comfortably on the first of January as on the first of June, one can sport among the combing billows that come rolling in across the blue, serene Pacific. The attractions of Santa Monica are manifold — beach-driving, surf-bathing, fishing, boating, yachting, are the seaward delights; while on the shore are all the charms which nature has so opulently spread for the pleasure of those who visit this favored spot, together with all the ingenious devices invented by man for amusement and relaxation. Of course it goes without saying that there is a magnificent beach hotel, whose broad verandas face the sea, and whose appointments are complete in all respects; also, of course, there are bath-houses of ample accommodations. There are many points of scenic interest within easy reach of Santa Monica. One of the most charming is that to Santa Monica canon, to which the Southern Pacific Company has extended its line, and Manville Glen, a spot made cool and inviting by ancient forest trees and a rippling brook, all embraced by rugged moun- tain surroundings. This is a favorite camping-ground, where pleasure and health seekers pitch their tents and spend months in the calm enjoyment of this sylvan retreat. Santa Monica is a great health resort, and experience has proved its ex- cellence in this regard. It possesses, the year round, one of the most enjoyable and healthy climates in the world, being from ten to fifteen degrees cooler than Los Angeles and the interior country in summer, and warmer in winter. There is a magnificent driving beach stretching away for fifteen miles, good sea fishing, an abundance of water-fowl in the neighboring lagoons, and game in the mountains a few miles distant. The climate of Santa Monica and vicinity is worthy of somewhat extended notice. In a general way we can sum up the climatic conditions of the southern California coast as follows: So far as the amount of rainfall is concerned throughout southern California, the rainy season simply signifies that during that period, exclusively, not exceeding 18 inches may fall. The average annual rainfall at San Diego is only 10.43 inches. Following up the coast to San Francisco, it increases at the rate of about 2 inches for every 100 miles. Santa Monica receives about 13 inches, Santa Barbara 15 inches, Monterey 17 inches, and San Francisco 21 inches. The Coast Range of mountains, rising to an elevation of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, robs the ocean rain freighted clouds of all their precious burden before reaching the interior plains and valleys. At Fort Yuma, on the Colorado River and TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 199 Desert, the mean annual rainfall is only 2.54 inches; among the little valleys extend- ing from San Diego to the San Jacinto Mountains, from 7 to 9 inches; in the valley of San Bernardino, and at Colton, Riverside, and Cocamongo, 10 inches; advancing toward the coast, Spadra and El Monte receive about 1 1 inches; and Los Angeles- situated jo miles from the ocean, about 14 inches. Crossing the San Bernardino Mountains to the Mojave Plains, the yearly rainfall is only from 3 to 4 inches, and from thence up the San Joaquin Valley as far as Goshen, in latitude 36 degrees, it ranges from 3 to 6 inches; from thence, northward, it increases to 15.10 at Stockton and 18.23 at Sacramento. Taking it all in all Santa Monica is a place of great interest. We have said nothing about the town so far, but must not neglect to stale that there is a town, and a very pretty one at that. It is situated on the level mesa, which stretches back landward from the brink of the natural sea wall, from whose foot extends the level beach outward to the ocean rim. The residences are taste- ful, many of them elegant, the business blocks substantial, and every element of com- fort and convenience for the health or pleasure seeker can be found here. Port Los Angeles. Twenty miles west of the city of Los Angeles is where the Southern Pacific Company have built their mammoth wharf, the longest ocean pier in the world. The total length of the structure is 4,620 feet. The coal bunkers are fitted with every convenience for rapid handling of coal cargoes from ship to bunker and then to car, and are 8.6 feet long, 36 feet wide, and 36 feet high with a capacity for 8,000 tons of coal. Depot buildings and freight sheds arc 384 feet in length, containing ample waiting-room accommodations and an excellent restaurant. The fishing from the wharf is the best on the coast. Bait and tackle can be had on the wharf. The large steamers of the P. C. S. S. Co. stop at Port Los Angeles north and south bound for passengers and freight, while deep sea and coasting vessels are coming and going at all times. Soldiers' Home. A mile from Home Junction, on the Santa Monica Branch, on a loop line, and sixteen miles from Los Angeles, is the home that a government that would nourish the wonted fire of patriotism maintains for its disabled volunteer soldiers. Two thousand veterans, heroes of the faded blue, are here at home; the great group of fine buildings, the extensive grounds, with their arboreal and floral wealth, the model farm of nearly 500 acres, and above all the veterans themselves, make this square mile a place of intense interest. Street-car service through a beautiful country connects the home with Santa Monica, and with the excellent suburban service of the Southern Pacific Company, enables the sightseer to visit both places in one day. One of the loveliest towns in the world lies before us as we enter Pasadena. From a sheep range in 1873 to the paradise of fruits and flowers and verdure which greets our eyes to day is a magic transformation. Yet such, in a word, is the history of Pasadena. The semi-tropical luxuriance of Bora! and arboreal growth which delights us here has sprung into existence within the marviiously short space of a decade and a half, and, nestling here among the orange groves and fruiting vineyards is a city whose beauty of architecture is a glowing testimonial to the good taste, wealth, and liberality of its residents. I know of no pleasanter or more interesting drives than those which may be taken along the broad, tree-lined avenues of Pasa- dena. Within spacious enclosures on each hand may be seen elegant villa rest- PASADENA. An Orchard City. Beautiful for Situation. A Delightful Health and Pleasure Resort. TO THE CO I. DEN GATE. 20! dences or splendid mansions surrounded by ornamental grounds of the greatest beauty. Palm-trees, magnolias, century-plants, 6g-trees, ancient live-oaks, sur- vivals of the days when this was only grazing ground for flocks and herds, pepper- trees, blue gums, and an infinite variety of ornamental shrubbery, makes these drives entirely novel, interesting, and (harming. The city obtains an abundant supply of water from the Arroyo Seco Canon, and the results of irrigation confront one in the wonderful groves of citrus and deciduous trees. Pasadena has a round dozen of churches, representing an expenditure of nearly half a million dollars. It has business blocks of metrcDolitan proportions, spacious and elegant theaters, four banks, a score of hotels, large manufacturing establishments, canning factories, elec- tric-car lines, telephone system, elec- tric lights — in short, all of the modern conveniences. As a place of residence we know of no more charming city than Pasadena, whose ten thousand inhabitants have every reason to con- gratulate themselves that their lines have fallen in such pleasant places. The wonderful climate of Pasadena is one of its chief attractions. Tour- ists who arrive in November or Oc- tober are constantly on the watch for winter. Finally a rain-storm comes, drenching the earth, and a few weeks later the ground the length and hrcadth of the land is carpeted with flowers, form succeeding form, until color and variety, tint and hue, seem to have run riot; by this token you may know that the winter has come. The tops of the Sierras are clothed with snow, so near that you can sec the snow blown high in air by the mountain's blizzard, so near that in two hours' ride you can go snow-balling or tobogganing, yet here at Pasadena the ground is white with the blossoms of the orange, there is a carnival of flowers in every dooryard, and to the student who arranges his plants according to their altitudinal horizons it is a puzzle. Here, in the same latitude as Wilmington, X. C, we find the banana, fig, pomegranate, guava, alli- gator pear, cocoanut, the fan-palm, sago-palm, cactus, the yucca, century-plant, cork-tree, the rubber-tree, the olive, orange, lime, lemon, and a host of other tropical forms, yet it cannot be a tropical climate, as side by side with these is seen every pine known from Norfolk Island to the shores of the Arctic Sea, firs, spruces; and as for fruits, we see the apple, pear, peach, apricot, plum, nectarine, all the small fruits, everything found in the gardens of New York State. The seasons are difficult to understand. The summer mean temperature at Pasadena is 66.61 degrees; that of Mentone in the Riviera, 73 degrees; of Jackson- MOUNT LOWE RAILWAY. 202 OVER THE RANGE ville, Fla., Si degrees; of New York, about 73 degrees. Thus it will be seen Pasa- dena cannot have remarkably warm weather. The summer, with the exception of one or two days, is not unpleasantly warm, and it is always pleasant and com- fortable in the shade, while every night is sufficiently cool to require a blanket. Not a case of prostration from heat, not a squall or wind-storm, seldom a thunder-clap or sign of lightning, and hardly a cloud in the sky; this is the record of the summer here. Everv day is a pleasant one, and such heat as is experienced in New York City in the summer is never felt. Three hundred and forty days out of the year will permit of continuous out-of- door life in the open sunlight, and at least half of the others may be enjoyed. This is the great secret. The country is the land of the open air winter and summer, and the conditions of altitude and nearness to large cities, allowing of all the luxuries and comforts, add to its attractions. Pasadena is connected with Los Angeles by three steam and two electric lines, and communication between the two towns is excellent, cars and trains running very frequently. Mount Lowe. From Pasadena extends an electric railway to Altadena, where a marvelous cable road lifts the traveler up to Echo Mountain, site of the Mount Lowe observatory,, which has gained fame in the astronomical world through the discoveries of Dr. Lewis Swift and other star-gazing scientists. From Echo Mountain to Mount Lowe extends an electric railway, which is one of the marvels of engineering. At Mount Lowe is Alpine Tavern (altitude about 5,000 feet), an attractive resort visited yearly by thousands of tourists. Silll Gabriel. This is the site of the famous Mission of San Gabriel, or, to give it the full honors of its stately Spanish title, "El Mission de San Gabriel Arcangel." The mission was founded September 8, 1771, and was moved from the original site to its present position in 1775. The mission church is a most interesting relic of what in the new world may be called antiquity, having been erected in 1804 of material imported from the mother country, Spain. An electric line running from the heart of the city lands the tourist at the mission. Beyond San Gabriel are the suburban towns of Alhambra, Shorb, and Aurant. LOS ANGELES TO SANTA ANA, WHIT- TIER, TUSTIN, AND LOS ALAMITOS. OUTH of Los Angeles in the county of that name, and the neighbor- ing county of Orange, is a .richly productive section that raises pretty nearly even-thing under the sun, except tornadoes, Hoods, snow- storms, sunstrokes, and torrid nights, which are not indigenous to California, and which no weather prophet has been able success- fully to import. Downey. Leaving the Arcade Depot, the great city station of the South- ern Pacific Company, reached from all parts of the city by electric lines, the trip is southward through the hog and hominy land, past Florence and Vinvale to Downey, an enterprising town surrounded by an agricultural section that would make anv farmer's heart glad. Potatoes, walnuts, vegetables, small fruits, corn, etc., are profitable crops, and the "lay of the land" is everywhere indicated by tin- cackling hen. From Studebaker, fifteen miles from Los Angeles, a branch extends to Whittier through a country that is proving particularly well adapted to the cultivation of fruits and walnuts. Whittier. The Quaker colony of southern California, Whittier, is like Red- lands, an example of marvelous growth. Ten years ago simply a vast barley-field, now it is tree-clothed, and hundreds of homes make this an ideal foothill city. The Whittier college of the Society of Friends is a very successful institution. "If thee would find a place more beautiful than this, thee'd search far." Of interesl is the state reformatorv institution, where the wayward youth are guided back into the proper path. Whittier possesses city improvements and wealth; every year it ships several hundred carloads of fruits, vegetables, and walnuts. Its cannery is one of the largest in the State. Norwalk. Returning to the Santa Ana line we pass the thriving village of Norwalk. Ostriches of all stages are here, from those who have just been shelled out to the bald-headed old gentleman, who, however, is not a bit stiff-necked. There are two ostrich farms near Norwalk. Buena Park. Buena Park is decidedly in the cow country. It has a con- densed milk manufactory that expends $15,000 per month, using thousands of gal- ions daily. A beautiful avenue is one of its greatest attractions. Anaheim. Anaheim is forty-three years old, but has the perennial youth of every southern California colony. A colony of Germans, possessing good judgment, chose it in 1857 as a good place in which to live — and that good judgment has never been disputed. Few cities are more prosperous, and its 2,500 people not only pos- sess, but own a large area of cultivated country, orange groves, 1 incvards, walnuts, and small fruits. The city has fine avenues, electric lights, street cars, and other public utilities. There are several points of historic interest in the neighborhood. Los Alamitos. Los Alamitos is nine miles from Anaheim, on a branch line 203 204 OVER THE RANGE recently built. A sheep range a few years since, it is now the site of a large beet sugar factor}- with a capacity of 700 tons of beets per day. It has a school-house, of course, a church, two hotels, and several stores. It is the railroad station for Ana- heim Landing and Bolsa-Chico Bay, one of the new seaside resorts. Orange. Orange has fine avenues, an excellent public library, and a miniature park in a plaza, but its chief distinction is its ideal homes and their lovely surround- ings. Three miles from Santa Ana, its sources of commercial prosperity are those of its neighbor. Santa Alia. Santa Ana is thirty-four miles from Los Angeles, and is the metropolis, commercial and political, of Orange County. It is a modern city with fine business buildings, paved streets, electric lights, four banks, and an opera house that would be a credit to any place on the coast. Its electric street-car system connects with Orange, and is to be extended throughout the valley. Prosperity is very evi- dent in Santa Ana, and that is not to be wondered at, for the surrounding county of Orange is one of the richest sections of California, with a wonderful variety of profitable products. That explains the four banks. A great many new houses are being built, several new business blocks have just been completed, and there is every prospect that the year 1904 will be one of unexampled growth in both city and coun- tv. A new canning establishment, that is capable of turning out 50,000 cases of Orange County products every day, is now in operation. A line new court-house has just been finished. Santa Ana has a public park worth considerable pride, a good public library, fine schools, an enterprising chamber of commerce, an Ebell society for the ladies, and a Sunset club for the gentlemen. The northern part of the city is noted for its beautiful homes. The county has been generously favored by Mr. Irvine in its picturesque park in Santiago canon. Near by is the fifty-acre- tract of the Santa Ana Golf Club, also a gift of the same gentleman. The city is the junction of the Santa Ana and Newport branch with the main line. Newport. Newport is a famous place for those who love the ocean for its own sake, and not because of beach brass bands or merry-go-rounds. The man with the broad-brimmed hat and the long fishing-pole, with a family who like to be sum- mering along a delightful beach, comes here. It has a sand peninsula with quiet water on one side and tumbling breakers on the other, a delightful bit of headland scenerv, and a bay perfect for bathing and boating. Its wharf and hotels are all attractive. A branch of the railroad extends to Smeltzer and the famous peat lands, where are grown the hundreds of carloads of celery that find their way to the Eastern market every year. Very productive are these peat lands, and grow almost any- thing in abundance, save large timber that have "too heavy a step." Every tourist should make a visit to this interesting section, where he can produce an earthquake "all by himself." The trip from Newport to Smeltzer is one of much scenic beauty. Tustill. Tustin is the center of one of the older fruit districts of the South, and has manv magnificent groves. The town is the center of a community well known for its wealth and refinement. Near by is the famous San Joaquin ranch of a hundred thousand undivided acres that extends from the mountains to the sea. There are good roads in all this country, a peculiar rock formation known as "Tustin cement" being responsible for many of them. LOS ANGELES TO SAN DIEGO. HE trip from Los Angeles to San Diego abounds in interest, and if one obeyed one's inclinations, and made a stop at all the attractive stations which intervene between the inland city and the city on the ocean side, it would take an entire vacation to accomplish the one hundred and eighty-nine miles of the journey. Leaving Lcs Angeles on the Sante Fe Pacific Railway at a comfortable hour in the morning, we are soon speeding through the suburbs of the City of Angels. It is difficult for us to tell just when we have passed beyond the confines of the city, because the country is so fully occupied by handsome villa iesidences and the suburban stations are of such frequent occurrence that one is puzzled to determine where the town ends and the country begins. Downey Avenue, Morgan, Highland Park, Gravanzo, Lincoln Park, South Pasadena, Raymond, Pasadena, Olivewood, Fair Oaks, and Lamanda Park are all busy stations disposed within a distance of thirteen miles from Los Angeles. It is therefore not to be wondered at that the traveler is confused and at a loss to know just when he is "out of town." Beyond Lamanda Park the stretches of open country between stations begin to widen, and one can look out of the window at least twice before another town appears in view. Raymond, As this station is approached one sees on the right an aspiring hill adorned with handsome lawns, ornamental shrubbery, trailing vines, and umbrageous trees. The summit of this hill is crowned by a massive and stately edifice that at once attracts attention and excites curiosity. On inquiry we lecm that this is the Hotel Raymond, and that here are entertained the hundreds cf guests brought hither by the well-known excursion managers Messrs. Raymond and Whitcomb. This, however, forms but a small part of the patronage of the Hotel Raymond, for from its excellent management, beautiful situation, and health- ful location the hotel has become exceedingly popular. Of course there is a town • site here, and what is not always the case in this country of town-sites, there is a town as well, with the prospects of a city. Passing through Pasadena, described elsewhere, we come to Lamanda Park. We wish to do the tourist who reads this book a good turn, having his comfort and enjoyment at heart, therefore we advise him to stop at Lamanda Park and make his headquarters for a day, or a week, or a fortnight, in this delightful spot. In the first place, one can find here a homelike and com- fortable hotel; in the second place, this is an excellent point from which to make radiating trips through the charming San Gabriel Valley or among the foothills and up the peaks of the Sierra Madre Mountains. Within an hour's drive are Sierra Madre Villa, the famous Rose Vineyards, Baldwin's Ranch, where, besides miles of orange avenues are to be found, at Santa Anita, the stables made famous by the fast horses owned by the "bonanza king." Orange orchards, avenues of English walnut-trees, lemon groves, vineyards, veritable forests of deciduous fruit trees and a tropic luxuriance of splendid floral beauties surround this place, which, though modest in size, is, as we have said, a charming resting-spot and a most convenient 205 SIERRA MADRE VILLA. An Ideal Pleasure and Health Resort. In the Heart of Orange Groves, on the Slope of the Sierra Madre Mountains. 2 06 OVER THE RANGE point from which to radiate in all directions and view either the grandeur of the mountains or the more quiet but none the less attractive beauties of the valley. The fame of the Sierra Madre Villa is world- wide. On its shaded verandas congregate daily the most cultivated and intelligent people. It is not always the same company that gathers here, but it is always a company which it gives pleasure for one to meet. The class of guests is of the best, bei ause the reputation of the Villa naturally attracts that class. This ideal pleasure and health resort is located on tin- southern slope of the Sierra Madre Mountains, fourteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. This elevation gives it complete im- munity from the fogs' of the sea and valley, and also gives a view of the most wide-horizoned beauty. Here we are only fourteen miles from Los Angeles, far enough away to escape the turmoil of the city, and near enough to enjoy all of its advantages. Theater trains are run three or four nights each week, and o. 2 can go to Los Angeles by train at almost any hour in the day. The Sant 1 Fe Pacific passes within a mile and a half of the villa, Lamanda Park being the station. The views from the Villa overlook- ing the beautiful San Gabriel Valley, are a glorious panorama of rugged mountain ranges, extensive orange groves — in one of which the Villa stands -vinevards, and the distant ocean with its shadowy islands. Here is, indeed, an ideal home with good food skilfully prepared, pure air, and sparkling mountain water. With all these essentials for health, comfort, and luxury, the tourist cannot fail to enjov his sojourn here. The fame of the Villa for its beautiful and healthful location, and superior accommodations, with all modern improvements for over one hundred guests, has become international. There are fine suites of sunny rooms, broad verandas, inclosed with glass to keep out chilly air if desired, a beautiful lawn, flowers, etc., and the most genial climate under the sun. Good roads and a beau- tiful drive from Los Angeles to the Villa. The Sail Gabriel Valley. The remarkable growth of the San Ga- briel Valley of southern California may be traced to a single imperishable feature — its climate. Towns and cities have appeared like magic; not the mushroom growth one expci Is and finds where a mining excitement has been the magnet, but towns which in completeness, architectural beauty, taste and culture of the people, will equal many in the East dating back fifty years or more. Ten years ago the San Gabriel Valley was, comparatively speaking, unoccupied. Several small towns, as Duarte, San Gabriel, Puente, were the chief centers, and the entire land was cut up into large holdings or ranches. To-day we find towns by the dozen larger than these pioneers, three lines of transcontinental railway, and one city, Pasadena, with a summer or permanent population of fifteen thousand persons, and a winter one ranging from twenty thousand to forty thousand. The San Gabriel Valley is about ten miles wide and thirty miles long. Upon the north are the California Maritime Alps — the Sierra Madre range — rising directly from the plains in a series of parallel ridges, in peaks from four thousand to fourteen thousand feet above the sea. To the west, spurs of the main range, the Sierra Santa Monica, the San Rafael and the Verdugo Mountains form a protective boundary, while to the south the Puente Hills rise, beyond which, faintly visible, twenty-five miles away, is the Pacific. The Valley is therefore completely environed on all sides, having abso- 3o8 OVER THE RANGE lute protection from prevailing winds from the north, in this respect again resem- bling the Riviera of Europe. The presence of these mountains and canons rising so abruptly from the valley, gives to the locality a scenic charm difficult to describe, and for its peculiar charm the view of the Sierra Madre range at Pasadena is unequaled in this country. Monrovia. This handsome little city has been christened by its admirers "The Gem of the Foothills," and, in fact, there is quite as much truth as poetry in the title. It has a most attractive site, commanding a comprehensive view of the San Gabriel Valley to the front, while the background is filled in with the massive range of the Sierra Madre Mountains. The town has two lines of street railway and an electric line to Eos Angeles. It possesses an elegant and costly hotel, furnished with all the modern improvements, handsome school-houses, first- class business blocks, fine private residences, and no saloons. Duarte. This is one of the oldest of the settlements of the Valley and is surrounded by a country of great productiveness. Farming is a considerable industry, and great quantities of corn and alfalfa, in addition to fruit, are raised. Azusa is near the upper end of the San Gabriel Valley and is in the center of the great ranch from which it takes its name. The stations now follow in quick succession until San Bernardino is reached. In fact, the train never makes more than four miles advance without either stopping at a station or passing through one. To give the reader an idea of the frequent occurrence of these towns we append a list, with the distance of each from Los Angeles: Glendora, 27; San Dimas, 31; Lordsburg, 34; North Pomona, 35; Clarcmont, 36; North Ontario, 41; North Cocamonga, 45; Etiwanda, 47; Rialto, 57; and San Bernardino, 60. One of the most marvelous things connected with this journey of sixty miles from Los Angeles to San Bernardino, aside from the marvels of nature, is that for an average of every three miles of the journey there is a station, and that at many of these stations there are considerable towns, and at several of them thriving cities. At San Bernardino we stop for dinner, and change cars, taking the Southern California Rail- road for San Diego. The station is a large and spacious building, admirably fitted for the pur- poses to which it is dedicated. The city of San Bernardino lies in a most beautiful and fertile valley. The county embraces 23,476 square miles, and con- tains not only some of the finest farming land, citrus and deciduous fruits of countless varieties, but also rich mines, and many mineral springs and health resorts. The scenery is magnificent and varied, the mountains abound in timber, and game is plentiful. The climate is superb and invigorating. The city of San Bernardino is situated in the center of a valley one mile square, and has a popu- lation of 10,000, and is rapidly increasing in size and wealth. Among other notable buildings arc the finest brick grammar school in southern California; a court-house which cost $40,000; the Stewart Hotel, costing $125,000; an opera house; an excel- lent hospital; and churches of all denominations. There is an abundance of artesian water. Three lines of railroads cross the county — the Southern Pacific, through Los Angeles and Colton, to Yuma and Arizona; and the Southern Cali- fornia, from San Diego, through San Bernardino to Barstow; and the Southern California Railroad, which runs on a straight line between the two cities. There is also the Valley Railroad, from the city to Gladysta, Lugonia, Redlands, and SAN BERNARDINO. rianufacturing and Mercantile Center. A Beautiful Residence City. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 209 Mentone, to the west line of High View. A motor road also runs continuously between this city and Colton, a distance of three miles, and the San Bernardino & Redlaiids Motor Road to Redlands and Lugonia via Victoria and Old San Ber- nardino orange groves. Also the San Bernardino & Arrowhead Narrow Gauge to Arrowhead Hot Springs. Street cars are running to all parts of the city. Building material is abundant and cheap. Among the varied products that attain perfection here we may mention oranges, raisins, wines, fruits and flowers of all kinds, alfalfa, corn and bark)-, while gold, silver, and borax are found in large quantities in the near mountain ranges. A Fertile Valley. The county of San Bernardino is the largest in California, and includes within its limits the valley of the same name. It con- tains much land which is now lying fallow, but which will in time be irrigated and made very productive. In its southwest corner are several large valleys, well irrigated, and of unusual fertility. Within them are long stretches of almost level plains, from which the gently undulating mesas gradually rise until they reach the foothills. The lower level lands are sufficiently moist to grow alfalfa, corn, and v?getablcs, without irrigation; and the soil is mainly a black sandy loam. The higher lands become more sandy, while the foothills contain the gravel washings from the mountains. These higher lands grow vines and deciduous fruits with the natural moisture; oranges and lemons alone require artificial irrigation. The higher lands are better for deciduous fruits, the mesas or table-lands for citrus fruits, the lower lands for vegetables and general farming. There are some immense vineyards in the country, and a vast quantity of excellent wine is made. After a barley crop is harvested, it is succeeded on the damp or irrigated lands by a crop of corn Alfalfa yields well and is cut from three to seven times in the season. About two tons are taken off each acre at a cutting. The heavy black loam of the mountain sides grows exceptionally fine potatoes. Vegetables and edible roots of all kinds attain an enormous growth in the valley. Besides the semi-tropical fruits, all those of more northern latitudes can be raised. These valleys surpass any others in the southern part of the State in the matter of an abundant supply of water for irrigating purposes. The Chino Ranch and Ontario lands are in this county. Coltoil. This live town is at the crossing of the southern California and the Southern Pacific railroads, and an unusually handsome station and large hotel are to be seen here. The town is only four miles from San Bernardino, and the time is not far distant when they will be one city. The citizens of Colton are enterprising and liberal, and as a result the town is making rapid and large im- provement. Canning factories are established here, and the shipments of pre- pared fruit and fruit in its natural state are something extraordinary. The surrounding country is of unsurpassed fertility, and a drive of half a day through the never-ending groves of orange-trees and in the midst of most entrancing scenery will convince one that Colton has every requisite for becoming a large and flourishing city. It is surely a most delightful place of residence. East Riverside is the station for Riverside, reached by a branch line. South Riverside, on the Southern California Railway, fifteen miles southwest of Riverside, is remarkable for the beauty of its situation and the sym- metry of its design. The projectors of this delightful town had original ideas and the town-site is exactly circular in form. Fruit raising is one of the leading indus- tries, while manufacturing is receiving a great deal of attention, and has already been firmly established here. :io OVER THE RANGE RIVERSIDE. The Orange Grove City of Southern California. Washington has been wittily denominated "tht city of magnificent distances," but here in southern California we have lound a city equally as deserv- ing of that characterization. Riverside manages to towr twenty-five thousand acres, and this great extent of territory has upon it between three and four thousand inhabitants. But did ever any one behold a more beautiful sight than this orchard city, reclining in the midst of orange groves, its magnificent avenues lined with ornamental trees, among which the oriental palm is most conspicuous, its artistic villa residences surrounded with grounds in which the care of the Ian 1 ape gardener can be seen, its fine business blocks of brick and stone, its handsome hotels, and its surrounding vineyards mak- ing it a perfect bower of beauty. Resuming our journey on the main line from East Riverside, we pass through Box Springs, Alessandro, and Perris, which latter place is situated on the San Ja< into River, which emp- ties in Lake Elsinore, some twelve miles farther on. The country has become more rugged, for we arc now skirting the San Jacinto hills. We pass through deep cuts and around projecting spurs, and finally enter a very pretty cation, emerging from which we pause at Elsinore on the margin of Lake Elsinore. This is a lovely little sheet of water, cradled in the highlands, with a bold mountain range to the west. The lake is four miles long and about half a mile wide, and forms a charming feature in the landscape. Wlldomar. At the foot of Elsinore Lake is Wildomar. This town has a very picturesque situation, and considerable expense has been incurred in planting trees, grading the streets, and bringing water in pipes from the adjacent moun- tains. It has schools, churches, good business houses, and a population of about two hundred. Murietta. This is a regular meal station, and on that account is of inter- est to the traveler. It is situated on the Margurita ranch, which comprises 208,000 acres of land, especially and solely adapted for grazing. San Margurita Creek flows through the town, and the railroad follows this stream for thirty-seven miles, and then, over the brow of a rolling mesa to our right, the great Pacific Ocean bursts on our view. Ocean Si2 6 OVER THE RANGE main line. It claims fame as a health resort, and at least one Southern Pacific agent owes his life to the worth of its climate. To the north on the main line are in succes- sion Lang, Ravenna, Acton, Vincent, Palmdale, Lancaster, Mojave, and Tehachapi. Actoil. Acton is becoming prominent as a health resort, its altitude, equitable temperature, dry climate, and interesting surroundings making it a first-class place wherein to laugh and grow fat. At no place in California can tourists see with less trouble gold mines in operation than here. There are about twenty gold mines, one extending 750 feet underground, and many of them very productive. Acton is the gateway to the new resort on Mt. Gleason, destined to be one of the great popular pleasure places on the coast. From its 6,000-foot elevation may be seen mountain, desert, valley, ocean. Trees up there are 200 feet high; but if you do not cai>i for climbing, hunting, exploring, and quartz-collecting are enjoyable pastimes. Mojave. Mojave is the junction of the Southern Pacific Company and the Santa Fe Pacific Railroad, and is a railroad center of some importance, A large mining country is tributary to it, and recent developments promise well for Mojave. Cailllllos. Westward the Santa Barbara branch passes through picturesque Camulos, ever dear to the lovers of literature as the home of "Ramona." Here by the Santa Clara River with the mountains of San Fernando on the south, and to the north the gentle foothills, lived Ramona. The corrals, vineyards, and orchards, and the old chapel, still stand as of old, vivid proof of the power of word-picturing possessed by Helen Hunt Jackson. Pirn. At Piru all kinds of fruit are at home, and many a valuable orchard bears evidence by the carload of the value of good land and perfect climate. Fillmore (Sespe CaiiOll). Fillmore and more oil, near the mouth of the interesting Sespe Canon, a delightful hunting and fishing country. Here the busy bee gathers sweetness from untold acres of blossom and boxes it for the lazy man to sweeten his taste upon. Fillmore is the center of the citrus belt of Ventura County, with a fine irrigating system. Sailta Paula. Oil moves the wheels of commerce smoothly in Santa Paula, and the growth of the town has been steady since the development of the oil industry. The famous Sulphur Mountain Springs are near here. Citrus and deciduous fruits and corn, beans, and walnuts are raised in abundance. The city is well built, paved, and possesses fine public buildings. Saticoy. Saticoy is noted for its twenty acres of sparkling springs and its artesian wells; it is a deciduous fruit center, and walnuts and beans rival each other in profit. Moiltalvo. One of the principal shipping points on the coast line is Mon- talvo, surrounded by great orchards of fruit, apricots and walnuts being extensively grown. It is the junction of the new live-mile branch to Oxnard. Oxiiard. Oxnard is a city of 2,000 people. Its site a few years ago was an ordinary productive ranch. To-day it has fine brick business blocks, beautiful homes, four churches, 400 school children, school buildings costing $48,000, good hotels, a bank and one of the largest beet-sugar factories in America. The factory can crush 2,000 tons of beets daily. It produced last year several hundred carloads of sugar, a hundred carloads of beans, and a large amount of grain, nuts, and pota- toes. Several thousand head of cattle are being successfully fed on beet pulp. Oxnard has a fine avenue to a fine ocean beach, thirty minutes' drive. It is well located in the fertile Santa Clara Valley (not to be confused with the larger Santa TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 227 Clara Valley, of which San Jose is the center). It will soon be on the main Coast line of the Southern Pacific, and its future is most promising. An immense beet-sugar factory, valued at $2,000,000, and with a capacity of 2,000 tons of beets per day, and thousands of acres of sugar beets, are the cause of Oxnard's prosperity. Three and a half miles from Hueneme, on the coast, it has a perfect climate. Soillis. On the Oxnard branch now but within a year to be on the new main coast line. Somis is to be a town of importance. From an elevation of 250 feet it overlooks the pretty Las Posas Valley and the ocean, eleven miles away. Beans, nuts, citrus and deciduous fruits all do well here, and fine crops of barley, corn, wheat, and oats are grown. Sail Buenaventura. They know beans here, and grow beans, too. Not in garden patches, but in broad fields that stretch away to the mountains — beans by the carload, beans by the trainload, beans that are excellent boiled in primitive hunter's fashion, or baked in approved Boston style. San Buenaventura is the county town of Ventura County, and is a pretty, energetic- seaside city of 3,000 people. It is the junction of the Ojai valley branch with the Santa Barbara line. The country is noted not only for its beans, but as well for the variety and quantity of its fruits; a cannery has just been built, and the business section improved by the addition of fine new blocks. Cattle-raising, dairying, and hog-raising are important industries. Mission San Buenaventura, southernmost of the Channel missions, is in a state of good preservation. It is in the city, within five minutes' walk of the railroad station. The city of Ventura is the home of U. S. Senator Bard. It is a great health resort, and among the best governed of cities. The Elizabeth Bard Memorial Hos- pital has just been built. Norcllioff'. A trip through the fertile Ojai valley to Nordhoff is entrancing. It is a park-like country, with trees hidden with climbing ivy, a country of beautiful views. Nordhoff is in a mountain encompassed oasis, a beauty panorama of moun- tains all about it. With its added perfect climate, good fishing and hunting, and neighboring hot springs, it is a most pleasant vacation headquarters. The Oak Glen cottages, a mile distant, form one of California's most charming places. The wild flowers of Nordhoff are famous the world over. Matilija Hot Springs. Only three miles from Nordhoff are Matilija* Hot Springs, a wonderfully good place in which to get well if you are ill. Accommo- dations are excellent, including a fine hotel, electric lights, telephone, etc. Few trips by rail are more interesting than that along the shore line to Santa Barbara. On the one hand cliffs, castled and domed, and on the other, within the easy pitch of a stone, the pellucid waters of the Santa Barbara channel. Like blue clouds upon the horizon lie th.- islands. With every turn of nature's picturesque- pathway comes some new bit of entrancing scenery — a glimpse of the sunlit ocean, or of some half-hidden Eden. Carpinteria. Seventeen miles beyond Ventura is Carpinteria, an old Spanish settlement in the land of the fig-tree and vine. Oranges, bananas, lemons, guavas, walnuts, and strawberries flourish. Here is the largest grapevine in the world, sixty years old, and now some eight feet in circumference at its base. Five miles more of delightful ride and Summerland is reached. Five miles distant is a pretty mountain resort — Shepard's Inn. Summerland. Enjoying fame for many years as a resort place, it now, in the light of a singular development, promises great commercial importance. At 228 OVER THE RANGE no other place in the world are oil wells bored in the ocean and oil taken from the depths. At last oil and water seemingly are near to mingling. Making the ocean yield up its oil a quarter of a mile from land is a feat unique enough to be worth a journey. THE CHANNEL COUNTRY AND THE LOMPOC AND SANTA MARIA VALLEYS. Santa Barbara. The city of the "smiling channel," one of the great resort places of the world, should hardly be passed by here with only a word. It was a famous resort thirty years ago. when travelers had no railway, but had to depend on steamer service. Naturally beautiful, lying between the broad beach at the water edge and the Santa Ynez Mountains, it has been helped by all that wealth and art and leisure could offer. On slopes and terraces its artistic homes have a background of ever-blooming flowers, of shrubs and trees such as grow best in a semi-tropic clime. The one business street, State Street, starts at the water's edge at the end of the steamship wharf and extends back through the town up the slope. On either side are ranged business blocks that give a stranger the impres- sion of a city of twenty thousand people. The charms of Santa Barbara, its great ocean boulevard, its fine mountain drives, its beautiful plaza and bath-house, its fine Hotel Arlington, and the magnificent Hotel Potter just completed on Burton Mound, and costing five hundred thousand dollars; its perfect climate the year round, its mountain and valley tours, its fishing and boating and bathing, its horse- back riding, polo playing, golfing, yachting — all these are so common to Santa Barbara as to seem hardly necessary to mention. What one of the finest resorts should have, that Santa Barbara owns. The city is an educational and artistic center. It is the resort home of many Eastern people of wealth who come to spend leisure time here in their magnificent country places. The city, of course, is well kept. It has paved streets, good electric car system, good lights, good water, and is well built. A fine new high school building has just been completed. Commercially, the city is very prosperous. It is exceedingly well governed. It has an enterprising Board of Trade. The products include lemons and oranges, English walnuts, lima beans, grain, pampas plumes, all kinds of deciduous fruits, wool, honey, live stock, stone, lumber, and petroleum. The mean winter tem- perature is fifty-five degrees; the summer sixty-four degrees. Very seldom does the temperature rise above eighty degrees or go below forty degrees. Santa Barbara is not altogether synonymous with dolce jar nicntc. It is a most excellent place in which to dream dreams, but better still in which to live a pleasantly strenuous life. Do not let the word "resort" deceive you; there's a tonic in the Santa Bar- bara atmosphere, even though it has no month so cold as April at Atlantic City, nor any month so warm as Atlantic City's June. Mission Santa Barbara Yirgen y Martyr still serves the work to which it was consecrated when peace had but come to the American republic, and its A-ise men were struggling with the question of a constitution. The church is of dressed stone, with massive walls heavily buttressed. The two-story towers yet shel- ter the chime of bells, and the famous garden with its fountain, so often pictured, still scents the air with fragrance. The mission has been carefully preserved, and to-day is one of the most interesting and imposing of them all. It is a lighthouse of hope from the sea, a beautiful landmark in white relief against the surrounding 230 OVER THE RANGE green of the hilltops, its double towers in stately dignity overlooking their pleasant surroundings as they did two generations ago. Back of Santa Barbara is the lovely vale of Montecito, most beautiful of all valleys. G-oleta . In the valley of that name is the center of a vast orchard of lemons, walnuts, olives, oranges, and pampus plumes, interspersed with bean and sugar beet fields and vegetable gardens. The valley lies parallel with the Pacific Ocean, separated from it by beautiful oak-covered headlands. To the north lie the Santa Ynez Mountains. It is a place of magnificent estates. Many such places as the "Island" offer such charms for country homeseekers as are irresistible. Other stations are La Patera, Coromar and Elwood. MISSION, SANTA EARBARA. Elwood. This orchard -surrounded village in the upper part of the valley is famous because of the work of that pioneer orchardist, Elwood Cooper, whose olives, olive oil, persimmons, and lemons are famous the world over. The Cliff' Trip. The traveler from Los Angeles has an entrancing view of the Santa Barbara Channel between Ventura and Santa Barbara, the ride skirting the water's edge the entire way; and the journey northward along the Coast Line from Santa Barbara is along the cliffs of the Pacific as far as Tangair, if we except the short ride through that flower and fruit basket, the Goleta Valley. So, from Ventura to the mouth of the Santa Ynez River and a little way beyond, an even hundred miles, the passenger enjoys the greatest railroad ride along the ocean in the world. There is nothing with which to compare it. The journey is not at sea level, but all the way on cliffs from fifty to two hun- dred feet above the ocean. The road runs along the very edge of these cliffs, which descend as precipices to the beach below. One may walk or drive for miles at low tide upon the sands at the foot of the cliffs and find few places in which the ascent to the railroad grade along the verge of the precipices above can be easily made. The way is broken with narrow, deep canons or arroyos from the Santa Ynez Mountains, and these are either filled or spanned by steel viaducts over which the railroad crosses. 233 OVER THE RANGE The marine view on this hundred-mile journey along the border line of the continent, looking over the beautiful Santa Barbara Channel, is indescribable. For but a few years has it been wholly accessible to travelers; indeed, before the completion of the Coast Line there was not even a wagon-road west of Gaviota along that picturesque headland, stretching to Points Concepcion and Arguello- The magnificent panorama of sea and sky with the mountainous islands of the Channel rising between, the changing colors of the ocean, and the particularly vivid contrast of the green shore waters and the deep blue of the more distant sea, the varied pathway of rocky headlands, deep canons with live-oaks and sycamores, of green mesa and rounded peninsula and the background of the Santa Ynez Mountains, give the wayfarer something not elsewhere to be found in all the world. Naples. Naples station is on a headland commanding a particularly fine view, but the village itself is hidden among the sycamores and oaks of the canon just beyond, owning a never-failing stream of mountain water. THE CANONS OF THE COAST LINE. The country from Naples to Point Arguello (the western pillar of the Santa Barbara Channel) is much alike throughout. The mountains are parallel with the shore, and mesas run down from their foot to the cliffs. These mesas are broken at tolerably regular intervals with canons. Many of these are deep and broad, but they have been so nicely chiseled out of the mesa that they are not to be noted until one comes squarely upon them. All are possessed of mountain streams in winter; many have waters running to the sea perennially, and back in ihe mountains nearly all have never-failing brooks. Each of these canons is richly wooded with oak and sycamore, and each widens out back in the moun- tains into a little valley, or perhaps a series of little valleys. Each canon is already the home of many people, and as they become better known they are to be the beautiful country estates of hundreds of people who wish an ideal climate with an ideal rural environment. In driving or walking up these rifts, one notes the wealth of vegetables and small fruits, of limes, lemons, lima beans, and oranges, and particularly English walnuts. The mountain walls are varied, rugged, and pictur- esque, the woodland scenes are unsurpassed in beauty, and the whole canon such an ideal home spot that one wishing to get apart for awhile from the madding crowd, would instinctively stop here. The canon, and the mesas between, belong to a few large estates which have been held since the days of the old Spanish grants. Of these some spots have been sold, and some sections are for sale; but there are others which the owners desire for homes and will not part from, considering them indeed as priceless. The beauty of the canons is shyly hid by protecting moun- tains and groves; yet enough may be seen, together with the great beaches by the cliffs, to make one dream of the not far distant day when along the shore line from Santa Barbara to Surf there shall be one continuous succession of magnificent homes and resorts; for the climate is all the way of that charming quality that made Santa Barbara famous before the railroad crossed the Sierras. The fertility of the canons and their valleys has been mentioned; the produc- tiveness of the mesa is also remarkable. From the train the Santa Ynez Moun- tains, picturesque and attractive as they are, show small cover of timber; but it must not be inferred from this that the country lacks in fertility or in water. A trip through the canons will dispel that idea. Those who know of the rather light rainfall along the coast between Santa Barbara and Surf may be incredulous when TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 233 it is said that a crop failure is unknown. But it is true. The highest mesa, if cultivated, yields a paving harvest. The soil is of such character that a rainy season is not beneficial; there seems to be a reservoir beneath this land, and the capillary attraction is sufficient to show it the way to the surface. The running springs out on the very backbone of Point Concepcion, where the grass is green — when nearlv all California has donned its robe of russet — tells of the plant life of the shore country. The mesa products are at present cattle, sheep, grain, hay, and oak wood. These will be vastly varied and increased as the estates are subdivided. Edwards City. Only a siding now across the canon westward from Naples, but with that point soon to become a fine resort. Note the vie from the headland with its great oaks. Capitan, Orella, Tajiguas. Canon stations which will increase in importance as the tributary estates are subdivided and sold. You catch glimpses of beautiful beaches along here; the shell-gatherers will soon know them as among the finest of the coast. Bathing may be enjoyed here the year round. Alcatraz. Known for its great asphalt and oil plant. Oil is piped herefrom the Cuyama wells. It is a model industrial colony, and the great rows of eucalyptus trees, the pretty cottages, the well-kept grounds and buildings, all help make it very attractive. One should note the historic old stage road that from Santa Barbara to Gaviota is near the railroad. A hundred and twenty-five years ago it was "el camino real" of the Franciscan friars, and for the last century has been one of the famous stage highways of the West. Gaviota. The station is midway between the Gaviota canon and Alcatraz on the mesa. The little settlement of Gaviota may be seen crossing the high viaduct above the wharf. It is a stage station, and daily stages run to Los Olivos twenty miles distant through Gaviota Pass. It may also be noted that the stage office is a private dwelling, a farm-house, a post-office, a restaurant, a telephone office, a steamship office, a general store, and a hotel. The Gaviota Pass to the north is beautiful. A mile from the emporium, the backbone of a mountain has been worn through by the stream, each portal being immense rocks several hundred feet high, and so scarred and twisted, with such varying strata, as to justify close study. The Overhanging Rock. The stream wore only a passageway for it; narrow width, so a bridge must need span it between these portals. Just beyond is the marvelous overhanging rock. One can stand in the roadway and look up at this great mass of granite, hundreds of tons in weight, hanging direct overhead fifty feet above you. It is not the projecting arm of the cliff, but a separate rounded rock that seems to cling to the cliff side without any reason whatever. It is said that every person whose attention has been unexpectedly called to this overhanging boulder has instinctively "moved on." Here the Indians proposed to waylay General Fremont on his California journey, in 1846, but he wisely chose a less rocky pass- Just above are two locally famous hot springs, which time will develop. Sacate, Santa Anita, San Augustine, Gato, stations which mark pretty beaches, fertile fields, and cattle ranches. Concepcion. The station is in the center of the neck of the point near the cold springs. Seaward rises the great rock, two hundred and fifty feet high, on which the white houses of the light house-keepers' stand. It marks the end of Point Con- cepcion, and is perhaps the most picturesque cliff on the Pacific Coast. It is the end of the Santa Barbara Channel, and on its western side is washed by the waters of 234 OVER THE RANGE the Pacific. The lighthouse is not visible from the train until one is many miles west. It is not on the top of the gigantic shelf, but on a rocky shelf part way down. The fuel, etc., for the lighthouse are chuted from the top of the rock some hundred feet down to this shelf, to which a narrow stair also leads. From the top of the rock is one of the finest ocean views on the Facific Coast. The surf effects at the foot of the rock during or soon after a storm are tremendous beyond description. The Point Concepcion peninsula is itself very pretty and fertile. Many thousands of cattle find pasture hereabouts. The hot springs of the point are already well known, and this with the fine beach and equitable climate, make the success of the proposed resort unquestioned. Jalama. On the inner curve of the bay between Points Concepcion and Ar- guello, at the mouth of Jalama Creek, which leads back into the mountains into a beautiful valley, the ruins of adobe ranch-houses a century old tell of the good judgment of the Franciscan friars. They found the beautiful places of the Pacific Coast seemingly without effort. The Jalama Hot Springs are worthy of mention. Point Argliello. A jagged, sea-worn point, which perhaps better than Point Concepcion marks the meeting-point of ocean and channel. The government has recently erected a lighthouse, in which the revolving light is operated by com- pressed air. Here the line turns northward. We pass Honda and Weser (fertile country in the interior), and reach Surf, set on a rocky, shelf-like cliff between the sand dunes and the sea. Here the Pacific is unrolled as one great picture. It is the junction of the main line with the Lompoc branch. LompOC and Lompoc Valley. The Lompoc Valley, watered by the Santa Ynez River, is one of California's finest valleys. It extends^ eastward under the brow of the Santa Ynez Mountains. Tributary to Lompoc are one hundred and forty thousand acres of farming and grazing land. Of the twenty-seven thousand acres of rich farming land, fifteen thousand acres arc ir. the Lompoc Valley proper, all of which in time will doubtless be given over to appbs, apricots, prunes, cherries, and vegetables and small fruits, requiring intensive farming. The Santa Ynez River is available for irrigation at nominal expense, and while there have never been crop failures, irrigation, as more scientific, will be adopted in time. The Lompoc Colony was organized in 1874, and so well pleased were the fifteen hundred people who came in during the next five years by stage and steamer, that none left willingly. Now that the valley is crossed by the main Coast Line, its four thousand population is expected to increase largely. The climate is unexcelled, the summer maximum being eighty-nine degrees, and the winter minimum twenty-four degrees. The nights are always cool, the distance to the sea being but nine miles. Ocean Avenue, eighty feet wide, all macadamized and sprinkled daily, runs from the town to the beach. There are many fine scenic drives among the mountains, including one through Miguelito Canon to the cave on the Hondo, where a prehistoric artist has put to blush the old masters with his quaint drawings. In the winter and spring the valley is a wild-flower garden. La Purissima Mission is three miles from the town; founded in 1787, and is one of the most interesting of the missions, but is now rapidly crumbling. The products of the valley are indicated by the exports in carload lots of barley, lime rock, potatoes, apples, mustard seed, infusorial earth, apricots, beets, and beans, the total amounting to over a thousand cars per annum. Lompo~ apples captured TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 235 first medals at the New Orleans Exposition and the Chicago World's Fair. The valley raises one-half of the mustard seed used in this country, and is the second apple-producing section in California. Land is worth from twenty to one hundred and twenty-five dollars per acre. The town is well built with many fine homes. It is well lighted, has good side- walks, macadamized streets, a fine water system, grammar and high school buildings. There are seven churches, a bank, two hotels, and two newspapers. Fraternal orders are unusually strong. Lompoc adjoins the foothills, its orchards and fields in front of it. There is fine hunting and fishing in the wild mountains surrounding the valley, with deer, mountain lion, and even bear now and then to lend excitement to the chase, regardless of who is chased. Tangair, Narlon, ami Alltoilio. In order, after crossing the Santa Ynez River are stations for the "back country," with oak-covered hills and valleys full of wheat. A country of great oil and asphalt deposits and many cattle and dairy ranches. Casmalia. Shipping-point for fertile interior valleys and hills. It is the rail- road station for large asphalt mines, and for oil wells some nine or ten miles in the interior. It may be mentioned here that the asphalt deposits of Santa Barbara County along the Coast Line are of vast extent, and the product is of the greatest purity known, running up to seventy-six degrees in the raw material. The country about Casmalia is rich in dairy and farming possibilities. Large quantities of butter and eggs are shipped daily. Beans and mustard seed have proved in the last few years to be fine crops. Hogs, potatoes, asphalt, wheat, oats, and barley are shipped in carload lots, and as soon as a pipe line is completed from the oil wells in the interior oil shipments will be heavy. The wealth of this section so far has gone almost unrealized and unknown; but the "closing of the gap" will soon change all that. Schumann and Waldorf. These are flag stops along the edge of the beautiful Santa Maria Valley, which appears in view just after leaving Casmalia. Waldorf lies near a famous asphalt mine. Guadalupe. The railroad leaves the mountains and crosses the mouth of the great Santa Maria Valley. Midway is the old Spanish town of Guadalupe, now awakening from a long time sleep to a commercial activity that could not be avoided after the completion of the Coast Line. The town itself, lying slightly north of the station, is a pleasant place of five hundred people, with a bank, warehouse, brick business blocks, and several creameries. The land about it is unexcelled for bean, beet, potato, and barley culture. There are two beautiful drives to the famous Pismo Beach. The Santa Maria Valley, largest in all Santa Barbara County, and third among those of the Coast section, is forty miles long by ten miles wide. From the sea its direction is eastward, trending southerly midway. Lying between the ranges of the Coast Mountains, with a famous climate and a richness of soil not anywhere exceeded, this great valley will, within ten years' time, have tripled its present population. There are not five thousand people in the valley, and it could easily support fifty thousand. In driving through it, one is impressed by the uniform richness of the land. Even more so than the Lompoc Valley is the area between the mountains level. The soil is a rich black deposit, like that of Illinois or Iowa, save the more sandy stretches along the Santa Maria River. Every acre is richly productive. Here, as in the Lompoc Valley, good valley land can be bought for fifty to one hun- 236 OVER THE RANGE dred and fifty dollars per acre, depending upon the nearness to town, etc. Cattle ranches and hill lands generally are much cheaper. The oldest settler in Santa Maria, who has lived there forty years, says that they have never had a crop failure. In the two driest years California ever had they did not suffer. Indians were at one time very plentiful, as also was game of all kinds. The bears, three or four in a sociable party, thought nothing of walking through the streets of Santa Maria town by night. Now the Indians for the most part have taken the low trail over the ridge. Back in the mountains bear are still at home, and in the wilderness of hills and valleys about the central valley is most excellent hunting and fishing. The Santa Maria Valley will produce eight to ten thousand acres of beans, six thousand acres of sugar beets, several thousand acres of grain — chiefly barley — ? considerable fruit, potatoes, onions, and vegetables, twenty cars of butter, eggs, and cheese, a few hundred cars of hogs and cattle, some mustard, and large quan- tities of oil and asphalt per annum. The resources of the country are scarcely scratched. Just before reaching Guadalupe, we look down from the train on the hillside upon the large buildings of the Union Sugar Company, located on a spur five miles from Guadalupe station, at Betteravia. This side will be noted Guadalupe Lake, which is almost a half a mile wide and four miles long, having two arms. It is a beautiful lake with green banks. Fishing and duck hunting are good. The factory, which draws its water supply from the lake, can crush five hundred tons of beets daily. The buildings cost five hundred thousand dollars. The farm belonging to the factory has four thousand two hundred acres, of which a large part is given over to beets. Limestone is brought from the Lompoc Valley. It is ex- pected that in a few years the one hundred thousand acres of good beet land, tribu- tary to the factory, will cause it to increase its capacity tenfold. This season it will crush about eighty-five thousand tons of beets. Santa Maria, the business center of the valley, is about ten miles from Guada- lupe, its Southern Pacific station. Stages afford connections with all trains. The town is well planned, with very broad streets, good business blocks, and fine homes, with an unusual amount of fruit and flowers. Set in the center of the valley, in the midst of a large level area, the view of the encircling mountains is superb. Santa Maria is a lively and prosperous town, and would be heard of more often were it in closer touch with the outside world. A narrow-gauge railroad (P. C. R. R.) runs to San Luis Obispo and to Los Olivos, and a broad gauge branch from Guadalupe is looked for. The mercantile business done is all out of proportion to the size of the town. It has two papers, a bank, and a savings bank, several fraternal orders, a good water system, etc. The people are all prosperous, there not being a single industry that is going backward. The apple and apricot crops are becoming important. Water supply, springs and surface water, is abundant. It is doubtful, indeed, if any part of the country offers any one willing to work greater opportunities, from an agricultural or horticultural point of view, than the Lompoc and Santa Maria Valleys. Broiliela and Callender are in the Santa Maria Valley and are enjoying prosperity. Many beans are shipped from Bromela. TO THE GOLDEX GATE. 237 OCEANO TO SAN MIGUEL, SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY. OceailO. A town of one hundred people, lies within a few hundred yards of the Pismo Beach, which is sixteen miles long and several hundred yards wide. It has, therefore, fine possibilities with the neighboring stations to the north as a resort place, but its importance as a commercial station is already deserving of attention. It is the entrance to the rich Arroyo Grande valley. Three miles away is the town of Arroyo Grande. Near it is the famous McClure seed farm of four hundred acres, whence arc shipped each year hundreds of tons of garden and vegetable seeds to the leading seed houses of the east and Europe. The Arroyo Grande district is of unexcelled richness. Its lower districts produce immense crops of beans, celery, beets, strawberries, blackberries, onions, potaoes, and all garden truck; its apples, walnuts, oranges, pears, apricots and peaches are famous, and on its hillsides thou- sands of tons of barley are grown annually. The water supply is fine and unfailing. A large part of the area under cultivation is "cleared willow land." Arroyo Grande. The town of Arroyo Grande is beautifully located on the stream of that name in the center of the district bearing its name, a collection of very rich va leys and arroyos with low cultivated hills intervening. The population is one thousand. There are several fine stores, a bank, a good schoolhouse, a news- paper, a hotel and some of the prettiest homes in the State. The town is growing rapidly. While Oceano is its principal railway station, the Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railway gives connection with San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria. The walnuts, apples and lemons of Arroyo Grande Valley are not surpassed anywhere, and as a vegetable country it certainly knows beans. Newsom Hot Springs, six miles from Arroyo Grande, are destined to become a fine resort. Good hotel and bath accommodation are now afforded. The Great Beach Drive. Pismo Beach has already been referred to as the finest beach in America. A magnificent trip is the drive from Oceano along this beach to Pismo, thence up the canon via the famous Sycamore Hot Springs to San Luis Obispo, or vice versa — a combination of sea and mountain, beach and canon. A letter to the secretary of the San Luis Obispo Board of Trade will result in a team meeting you at Oceano. Grover. Grover adjoins Pismo Beach, and in a few years will be one of the best summer resorts of that magnificent beach. Already hundreds of people camp here during the summer. Edna. A progressive community on the Corral de Piedro Rancho of thirty thousand acres, six miles south of San Luis Obispo. It is famous for its walnuts, and raises fine crops of grain, sugar beets, beans, cattle, hogs, and horses. The fruit orchards and vineyards pay well. The population of two hundred is too health}- to support a physician. Valley land is worth one hundred dollars per acre, and hill land from ten dollars up. Sail Luis Obispo. City of the Pyramids, the county-seat of San Luis Obispo County, home of the mission of the same name, the commercial center of one of the richest and most varied sections of California, and withal a beautiful town with old fig and olive trees, orange and walnut trees, and vines with flowers everywhere adorn- ing it tastefully. It is built amid a cluster of pyramidal mountain peaks, isolated and on the different sides of the town, lending with the ridges elsewhere a picturesque outline to the horizon. The city is by a plunging stream, San Luis Obispo Creek, that comes from the canon above the town. The site of San Luis Obispo is undu- 238 OVER THE RANGE lating, so that one may be on a hill, a hillside, a level, or in an arroyo and not go far; yet each seems to have an easy way of approach, so that a comprehensive journey is not tiresome. The well-laid out city is finely built, with many shade trees, excellent water system, electric light and gas systems, etc. In location it resembles Los Angeles, though nearer the ocean. The summer temperature has a maximum of ninety-four degrees; the winter minimum is thirty-two degrees. Lemon trees thrive throughout the town, and roses grow the year round. San Luis Obispo, though a very busy commercial place, offers unusual attrac- tions to tourists. The Hotel Ramona, with its two hundred well-furnished rooms has a commanding location for the sightseers to whom it caters. The many drives include a twelve-mile ride to the magnificent Pismo Beach already spoken of, a seven-mile trip to the famous Sycamore Hot Springs with its good sulphur plunge and private bath located amid a beautiful sycamore grove, a nine-mile journey to Avila Beach, near Port Harford, a visit to the picturesque Port Harford itself, a fourteen-mile excursion to famous Morro, with its singular rock towering out of its bay, and a seven-mile ride up beautiful Reservoir canon. Port Harford, Avila, and Sycamore Springs are also reached by the Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railway. Pleasant trips to the interior are made over the Cuesta grade to Oak Park and Arroyo Grande. In the heart of the city is the old mission, San Luis Obispo del Tolosa, founded in 1772; visitors are welcomed. San Luis Obispo has indeed all the necessary attractions to make it a most charm- ing place of residence for people seeking temporarily or permanently a place of great attractiveness and ideal climate. The city has three banks, five churches, thirteen hundred school-children, high school, grammar school, etc., and leading fraternal orders are represented. The new state polytechnic school is to be located here, the site having been purchased by the trustees. Extensive railroad terminals and shops are being built, and the town is growing faster than at any previous period. The streets are broad, lined with poplars, eucalyptus, and pepper trees, and in the business section are paved. The business blocks are of stone and brick and are imposing. The city owns its water system. The sewer, gas, and electric systems are good. The value of city improvements is about one million five hundred thousand dollars. The Board of Trade is unusually active. North of San Luis Obispo is one of the best cattle, grain, and dairy sections on the Coast. South and west large crops of beans and mustard seed are raised, and to the southeast much fruit and nuts. In Los Osas Valley citrus fruits pay, while over towards the coast about Mono and Cayucos dairy products each year means hundreds of carloads. Beyond is the historic mining town of Cambria, with its quicksilver and other mines. Yet beyond is the magnificent Piedras Blancas Ranch of forty-eight thousand acres. Six miles north of its port, San Simeon, is the tall tower of the Piedras Blancas Lighthouse. In San Luis Obispo County there are perennial streams everywhere. It is a well-watered country, and irrigation is little practiced because of plentiful rainfall on the sea side of the ranges; but scientific farming is going to irrigate. The population of the county is about eighteen thousand, and the assessed valua- tion eleven millions five hundred thousand dollars. It can easily support ten times the present number of its inhabitants. The Horseshoe Incline. Leaving San Luis Obispo the Coast Line climbs upwards into the Santa Lucia Mountains. Just above San Luis Obispo is a remark- able inclined horseshoe that as an engineering feat is far more picturesque than TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 239 that of the Pennsylvania. The road crosses the stream some two hundred feet above its surface, and then describes a horseshoe that all the way is on a steady grade. Within two miles of the bridge crossing one may look down from the upper arm of the horseshoe and see the track over which the train has just passed, some two hun dred feet below and apparently running abruptly into the mountainside at right- angles to the present line of motion. The trip through the Santa Lucia Mountains is beautiful. Of this Edouard de Reszke said, in the winter of 1902, "Nothing in Switzerland I have seen is so beau- tiful." The road clings to the face of the wall, and looking down charming views are had of the fertile little valleys far below. The Santa Lucia Mountains are vividly green a large part of the year, and are well watered with some thirty inches annually of rain. There is fine trout-fishing and good hunting in these half -unex- plored mountains. Passing Goldtree, an important grain-shipping point, Serrano, and Cuesta we reach Santa Margarita. Sailta Marg'arita. A shipping-point of importance for some of the finest hay that ever grew, and for cattle, sheep, and hogs, also wood. The town of four hundred people is pleasantly located in the forest of oaks. Its elevation is a thou- sand feet. It rains here in winter forty to forty-five inches, and irrigation lecturers get no hearers. Surrounding the town is the famous Santa Margarita Ranch of twenty-five thousand acres. From Santa Margarita the way leads downward through magnificent oak forests into the great Salinas Valley. On the way we pass Havel, Atascadero, and Asuncion, bordering the great Henry Ranch, rich in timber, grain, hay, and stock. Some day this great stretch of land subdivided, with its five mountain streams, rolling hills and fertile valleys, will afford homes for thousands. There are beautiful waterfalls back in the mountains. Templeton. Is a lively town of four hundred people at the head of the Salinas Valley. Several thousand tons of wheat, unexcelled anywhere, are shipped each year, while the local flour mill takes care of its share. Crops are assured by an annual rainfall of over thirty inches. Wheat, while the staple, is by no means the overshadowing product. Templeton is one of the chief wood-shipping points in the State, several hundred cars being shipped each year. Among the fruits grown successfully are apples, prunes, peaches, figs, cherries, plums, and grapes. Land prices are marvelously low, fertility considered, running from twenty to fifty dollars per acre. There are several thousand acres of paying vineyards and orchards, one apple orchard covering two hundred acres. The upper Salinas Valley is remarkable as a place for poultry, hogs, and live stock, which seem here to be particularly favored by the delightful climate. A rancher may pay his living expenses from his poultry alone. Templeton is built in a live-oak park, with an acre of beauty in the center reserved. It has a fine school-house and good schools. Excellent roads lead into the mountain passes and neighboring valleys. We follow the Salinas River another five miles and then come upon the second city of San Luis Obispo County, and one of the most famous hot springs resorts of America. Paso Robles and Paso Robles Hot Springs. Beautiful El Paso de Robles, the pass of oaks, is a charming town of fifteen hundred people, lying be- tween the Santa Lucia Mountains to the west and the main coast range to the east in the upper Salinas Valley. It is built between the Salinas River bank and the foot- hills of the Santa Lucia. The city is amid a natural oak park. In i»s center is a plaza of trees and flowers, and opposite is the great Hot Springs hotel. 240 OVER THE RANGE The Hotel El Paso Robles is surrounded by beautiful grounds. It is a three- story brick structure and, of course, has all modern improvements. The spacious verandas of the hotel, unsurpassed in California, are an enjoyable feature. In connection with the hotel are run the wonderful Paso Robles Hot Springs, which have made the town famous. The main bath-house, costing twenty-five thousand dollars, is near the hotel. There are also mud-baths and sand- baths under the hotel management. People suffering from rheumatism, chronic and inflammatory, or from any of the long list of nervous, circulatory, and skin dis- orders, are cured here so readily that crutches and similar badges of discourage- ment are like drugs on the market in P?so Robles — unnecessary. There is a resi- dent physician to take charge of the crutches. Paso Robles is not a health-resort only. It is one of the most pleasant pleasure places ever visited. Quail, rabbits, wild pigeons, and doves — it is the most notable dove section in the world — and trou* in the mountain streams, meet sportsmen more than half-way. What J. Ross Browne wrote of this section of the valley, then known as Santa Margarita, is, as Charles Howard Shinn has said, a description that appeals as true: "I have wandered over many a bright and beautiful land, but never have I seen a country so richly favored by nature as California, and never a more lovely valley than Santa Margarita, in the whole wide world. There is nothing comparable to the mingled wildness and repose of such a scene, the rich and glowing sky, the illim- itable distance." Paso Robles' climate is of such healthful character that doctors depend upon visitors. The midsummer days are sometimes rather warm; the nights are inva- riably cool. In winter frost sometimes comes. No germs exist here, the sulphur in the atmosphere discouraging th°m. Fever and ague die on the road, smallpox would not remain over night, and the old residents have no such word as malaria in their vocabulary. Commercially, the town has a magnificent territory extending twenty miles west- ward, sixty east. Paso Robles is connected by stage with the tributary towns, Cholame, Creston, and Shandon to the east and Adelaide to the west. The territory to the east is devoted to grain and stock; to the west quicksilver mines are becoming industries of great importance. The upper Salinas Valley is a great wheat country, and recently from Paso Robles alone were forwarded nearly fifteen hundred carloads of wheat, flour, and millstuffs. Dairying, fruit-growing, poultry-farms, wine-mak- ing, and cattle and hog raising offer good returns. Apples and pears are to be very profitable crops. The Salinas Valley furnishes an unlimited water-supply, and while the annual rainfall is always sufficient, if at the right time, irrigation is so easy and inexpensive that the scientific use of water through that channel is becoming more and more popular. Paso Robles has a high school and lower grades, a twenty- five-thousand-dollar school-house, churches, fraternal orders, etc. There is a pro- gressive board of trade. Stlllta Y.sal>el. Is a magnificent estate, with hills and lowlands, canons and mesa. There is an old bungalow there, which is mostly veranda and latticed windows, and hammocks, where the sun never interferes with the interior, because the roses climb everywhere protectingly in the way. There are more beautiful rides and drives through oak -dotted uplands and unfenced parks than the most energetic will become acquainted with in a month. Then there is the lake. Lake Ysabel lies a little way from the farm-house, a pleasant canon walk. Think of a lake, an actual lake of mineral water such as you pay fifty cents a quart for 24 2 OVER THE RANGE to drink, lying in a beautiful canon, sufficiently warm to go bathing in in mid-winter, and no different in mid-summer. It's unique, a. id really affords a plunge that has no parallel. Further up the canon are the great springs, the largest hot springs in California, with individual tub-baths, which are just a little different from any other- Standing on Ysabel Summit and looking out over the five hundred square miles of valleys and rolling hills, of mountain ridges and river sands, seeing in the fall the russet and gold of autumn ripened among the oak-forests, or in the spring the vivid green of a carpet of new life bounded by the horizon along the ridges, one must recognize the beauty of the Upper Salinas; a: vividly recognize it as its clear atmos- phere sets forth, photochrome like, its wealth of color, its variety of detail, and it- bewildering immensity. The government has chosen the Nacimiento Ranch of twenty thousand acres as a permanent camp and manceuvering ground for the army in the west. The site is a magnificent one, and the camp will be another attraction of the towns of Paso Robles and San Miguel. After Wellsona, r flag-station, the thriving town of San Miguel is at hand. Hereabouts we may see the great combined reapers and thresh- ers in the wheat-fields. Sail Mig'liel . San Miguel is also of the oaks, and shares the advantages of the Upper Salinas with Templeton and Paso Robles. It has a place of unusual interest in San Miguel Mission, founded in 1797, by Father Lasuen, one of the Franciscan friars. The mission is built to withstand the centuries. At one time there was an aqueduct eight miles long and fifteen-foot adobe wall two miles long surrounding the buildings and plaza. It speaks volumes for the fertility of this country, when it is learned that within twenty years these peaceful friars, coming unheralded among the savages, had livestock under the care of the mission worth over three million dollars and used land valued at ten million dollars. San'Miguel is a shipping-point for wheat and flour, like Paso Robles. Its popu- lation is about five hundred, and its future is very bright. There are many beaun ful trips to be made from San Miguel into Indian Valley, up Nacimiento and San Antonio rivers. The Improvement Club is a mine of information. Before leaving this section, mention should be made the Carisa plain east oi the mountains that one sees eastward from the train. This plateau is over fourteen hundred feet in average elevation, and in the southwest part is Painted Rock, hollow sandstone hill with a chamber in the center two hundred and twenty-five feet long and one hundred and twenty feet wide, with the sky for a roof. The United States Bureau of Ethnology has dissertated upon the wonderful Indian petroglyphics that are painted in red, white, and black upon the v. dls of this chamber, and arrived at conclusions equally interesting with those of Mr. Pickwick's learned sociecv They are worthy of a visit from either Paso Robles or San Miguel. MONTEREY COUNTY. Bradley, San Ardo, and San Lncas. Are business centers, with flag stations of Wunpost and Upland alternating, of a country so rich that it would make the Blue Nile country blue indeed to know of it. Needs more extensive irrigation systems, because the rainfall is irregular, though the inhabitants are prosperous. Some of them, with an awakened ambition to become millionaires, are now irrigat- ing. The people hereabout sell several million pounds of wheat and large quantities of butter, eggs, and wool, and Angora goats. They ship several trains of cattle, and, like the older towns on both sides, have good asphalt, oil TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 243 and coal indications awaiting enterprise. The promising Stone Canon Coal Mine has a ledge of fine steam coal sixteen feet thick, and of unmeasured depth, twenty-five miles northeast of Bradley. Oil experts predict that this will become one of the great oil sections of California. Nearly a thousand square miles of territory are tributary to these stations. Irrigation and extensive farming will increase the products and land values hereabout tenfold. The climate is delightful, never oppressively hot in the summer, and never very chill in the winter. The old inhabitants neither die nor move away, but remain to speak well of the climate and the hard winter they spent when they went East in '57. Sail Antonio Mission. West of San Lucas twelve miles (but reached more easily by stage from Kings City) is the beautiful Jolon Valley, a fine fruit section, and beyond the wonderful San Antonio country, where the discerning eyes of the Mission Fathers saw so fair a spot that they founded a mission there July 14, 1771, when Boston was yet paying tribute to the king. The mission is crumbling sadly because of lack of care. Through the rich valley runs the broad San Antonio River, joining the Salinas near Bradley. Dr. A. A. Wheeler describes the mountains back of the mission as among the most interesting, scenically and geologically, in America. King's City. This station has a large tributary area, with a great deal of fertile land yet unimproved. Here an irrigation system is making excellent headway. It is the forerunner of an immense irrigation system with a reservoir in the mountains to the west. Kings City speaks of the wealth of its surrounding country in trainload after trainload of barley, wheat, sugar-beets, hogs, cattle, and sheep. Land under the irrigation system draining from the Salinas River sells for fifty dollars an acre and upward; hill land, to be very valuable in a few years, is held at fifteen or sixteen dol- lars per acre. The pleasant climate is very beneficial for lung trouble sufferers. There are many mountain resorts near by. There are good hotels, schools, and churches, and several fraternal orders. Almost any farm product can be produced in this rich country, but scientific farming demands that it shall be under irrigation. The winters are no colder than those of Southern California; the summer days get the Monterey Bay breezes, and are pleasant. Metz. Is a grain, beet, and cattle-shipping station, growing every year in im- portance. SolccUlfl . A town of two hundred people, twenty-five miles south of Salinas, with a good hotel, schools, and the ruins of the old famous Soledad Mission. This mission was founded in 1791, and is one of the oases provided by the padres for sundown stops between San Diego and San Francisco. Soledad is rich in its pro- duction of sugar-beets, potatoes, beans, alfalfa, and onions, with forty thousand acres of wheat and barley as a mainstay. Ruins of an aqueduct eight miles long, from the Arroyo Seco, built by the Franciscans a hundred years ago, are yet visible, a lesson for the residents of to-day, who have to learn well the use of an irrigation ditch. Near by is the Salvation Army colony. Three hours east of Soledad are the Pinnacles; to the south is the romantic Arroyo Seco, with its trout and quail and deer and mountain scenery, awaiting sportsman and naturalist. Off in the Santa Lucia Mountains is a wilderness of beautiful country, named La Calera by the Spaniards and known to us Americans as the Lost Valley. In beauty and grandeur of scenery it has few equals, even in California. The best known resort near Soledad is Paraiso Springs. The Pinnacles. Fourteen miles east of Soledad are The Pinnacles. Vancouver, the famous voyaeer. was sent out by the British Government a few 244 OVER THE RANGE years after the close of the Revolutionary war to explore the west coast of California. He spent several years on the coast, and by order of the king, his voyages were published about the beginning of the last century. In these old volumes is an engraving of a castle-like mountain. The text describes a wonderful mountain near Monterey, which resembled, with its pin- nacles, domes, and spires, an old castle. It impressed Vancouver as the most remarkable scenic feature on the Pacific coast. A visit reveals one of the greatest natural wonders of America. Some ten square miles of volcanic mountain is riven and cleft into great domes and turrets of rocks surmounted with spires and pinnacles. Many of the gorges are roofed over by immense masses of conglomerate two hundred feet or more in each dimen- sion falling from the precipice edges above. Here are sheer walls of fifteen hundred feet, great caves, and curious shapes of conglomerate rock similar to the Colorado Garden of the Gods. The Pinnacles may be reached via Hollister and Tres Pinos from the north or eastward from Soledad. The wagon roads are good. ParaiSO Springs. This Carlsbad of America, with its arsenic, soda, and sul- phur springs, is an hour's ride from Soledad, among the pines and oaks of the Santa Lucia Mountains between Soledad and the sea. The springs cure almost every- thing, the prices are reasonable, and the accommodations excellent. It is a fine place to go to get well, and better, if well, to have a good time. Here is mountain- climbing, fishing, deer and quail hunting. Paraiso has its own fine orange orchard, berry farm, dairy, apple orchard, etc., and hundreds of people spend a month here every year. Gonzales. Tributary to this town of five hundred people are sixty thousand acres of rich land. The place has three churches, excellent schools, a bank, and several large business houses. Fruit-growing is a remunerative industry. Belle- fleur and Newtown pippins among apples, and all varieties of prunes, pears, peaches, apricots, berries, cherries, and plums are excellent bearers. Sugar-beets and potatoes have yielded large returns in the last two years, and dairying perhaps is at present the best paying industry of all. Cheese and butter from alfalfa grown on river lands, constitute large daily shipments. Here, as elsewhere along the entire Salinas Valley, irrigation by using the inexhaustible supply of sub-surface water of the Salinas River is a simple proposition. The Gonzales Water Company has found within thirty feet of the surface an immeasurable supply of water, and the trade winds and the windmills do the rest. Cliualar. Chualar has a tributary section of twenty thousand acres, of which sixteen thousand belong to one man. The soil is of great richness, just as it is else- where in the Salinas Valley, and only subdivision and irrigation are necessary to give a comfortable living to hundreds of families on twenty to thirty acre holdings. The climate is excellent. Eighty-seven degrees is the summer's maximum, and thirty degrees above, the winter's minimum; but the present system of tenant farm- ing in this beautiful locality does not tend toward permanent improvements. Chualar ships a hundred cars of products annually. The schools are good, old settlers are numerous and very healthy. We ride through the lower valley into Salinas, through Spence, a barley-shipping point, and Spreckels Junction, whence a three-mile branch goes to the door of the great sugar factory. Salinas. The metropolis of the lower Salinas Valley, and the county-seat of Monterey County, is charmingly located between Gabilan and Santa Lucia Ranges TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 245 <>t the Coast Mountains ten miles from Monterey Bay, which marks the end of the valley. Its population is three thousand five hundred, it lias three of the best hotels in the state, a good lire department, a main street lined with brick business houses that would be a credit to a town of twenty thousand inhabitants, good street pavements and sidewalks, three prosperous banks, gas and electric works, opera- house, etc. The fraternal orders are very strong, and there are seven church build- ings. The Salinas high school is accredited to the State University. Twenty teachers point the way of progress. The town is a train-terminal, and the railroad payroll is large. The houses are pretty and well kept, with an amazing wealth of flowers. The climate of Salinas is unsurpassed by that of any other section. The winter minimum rarely touches the frost line, and the summer maximum falls short of ninety degrees. Proximity to Monterey Bay, w r ith its superb evenness of temperature, is responsible. Salinas is a place of interest to tourists, and is attracting much attention. A new and charming fifteen-mile drive to Mt. Toro is being laid out. From Mt. Toro one may look down upon the green Salinas Valley, with its silver thread of a river wind- ing northward, and turning, watch the blue waters of Monterey Bay break in their crescent line upon the wooded shores. A hundred and fifty miles eastward the snow roofs of the Sierras glisten, and off to the south peaks lean upon peaks, mountain walls terrace one another, and green valleys show gayly amid the darker foliage of the shadowing hills. Another charming drive is to Watsonville, and there are many others also; but of all, the finest is to Del Monte and Monterey. Among the most pleasant trips in the Coast Line country is the bicycle ride from Salinas to Del Monte. The way is over a good road across the Salinas Valley, by the Spreckles factor}', over the river, and then between oak and pine and redwood covered moun- tains down to the shores of Monterey Bay, with such changing vistas, by such templed hills, underneath arching woods, around the mountain brows — mountain, valley, and bay flashing upon the view — that one carries away an impression in- effaceable as it is indescribable. Visitors can well afford to stop off at Salinas and reach the famous Del Monte, Monterey, and Pacific Grove over this charm- ing road. The country around Salinas is so productive, that it may be well to prepare your mind with a few figures. The Spreckels Sugar Factory, three miles from town, crushed in 1901 two hundred and seventy-one thousand three hundred and twenty- two tons of sugar-beets, of which one hundred and forty-one thousand two hundred and eighty tons were grown immediately tributary to Salinas. Here is one of the large flour mills of California, shipping by the carload every day to China and points nearer by. Train load after train load of barley and potatoes is forwarded . Among the carload products may be mentioned cattle, potatoes, hogs, hay, oats, onions, horses, goats; and from Spreckels sugar, beet-pulp, apples, and molasses. Many potato growers in the Salinas and Pajaro valleys have cleared from one hundred and twenty-five to two hundred dollars per acre. The sugar-beet farmers received at the factor} - four dollars and fifty cents per ton, the price being fixed in advance. The yield ranged from eight to thirty tons per .:> re, the average being thirteen, so that, investment and assurance of returns considered, the results to the farmers are very satisfactory. The cattle-owners are making money rapidly, and, as elsewhere, the dairy farmers have more money than they know how to invest. A Salinas banker said that — and he knows. Of course the vegetable returns last season wen- exceptional, but no potato-grower is apt to leave 246 OVER THE RANGE that business for any other very soon. The Salinas Burbank potato commands the highest price in every market in which it has been sold. Deciduous fruits and berries do well here, and are attracting much attention. Apples, pears, quinces, plums, cherries, nectarines, prunes, figs, almonds, walnuts, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, currants, etc., are being grown with profit. The average rainfall at Salinas during the last twenty years has been fifteen inches, the minimum nine inches and the maximum twenty-one. Irrigation is practiced some with such results that an immense reservoir is soon to be constructed in the mountains. Tassajara Springs. Among the charming mountain resorts near Salinas are Tassajara Springs. They are reached by stage from Salinas. These eighteen mineral springs, varying from cold water to that of one hundred and forty-five degrees, are pronounced by the Smithsonian Institute equal to any known. The springs are in the midst of a wilderness above that superb scenic river, the Arroyo Seco, one of the best trout streams in the state. The hunting in this wildest part of the Coast Range is also excellent. The two-story stone hotel fur- nishes good accommodations. The location, eight miles from the ocean, sixteen hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea, surrounded by peaks and crags, forest-covered, speaks for the climate. A road from a nearer point on the railroad s projected, but as a matter of fact the wildness and comparative isolation of Tas- sajara, w r ith its hundred or more guests, are but added charms to the mountain lover. Spreekels Sugar Refinery, three miles west of Salinas on the banks of the river near the foot of the mountains; the most prominent object on the level floor of the valley is this great refinery, largest in the world, crushing in the busy season three thou- sand tons of beets daily. The works are models of ingenuity. The factory has an interior electric railway, which will serve to illustrate the scientific nature of its equip- ment. Cars run automatically to chutes, stop automatically, and enter an elevator, and are taken thence automatically to another floor, where they leave the elevator of their own accord, and automatically dispose of their loads to the proper place, returning automatically by another elevator to renew the trip. These intelligent machines require the services of only one man to see that the tracks are not blocked by sugar, which may spill overboard. There is a model town, school, and post-office in connection with the factory. A narrow-gauge railway to Watsonville and a Southern Pacific spur provide transportation facilities. North of Salinas we pass through a vegetable and dairy country of exceeding rchness along the great Elkhorn Slough, a famous place for ducks. This is the lowland of the coast section back of Monterey, and near here the Salinas River from the south, and the Pajaro from the north join the ocean. CastrOY'ille. The junction of the main line and the Monterey Branch, three miles from Monterey Bay (Moss Landing beach). Two miles northeast of town are the mysterious lakes of Espinosa and Merritt. No one knows whence these beautiful lakes draw their water supply, but they are pleasure places of much value to boaters, fishers, and hunters. Castroville has twelve hundred people, several churches, a good hotel, fraternal orders, 'good schools, an excellent creamery, and is the shipping-point for large quantities of potatoes, onions, sugar-beets, dairy produce and poultry, hay, grain, beans, peas, and shortly will be an important apple center. The surrounding country is of exceeding richness, and never lacks for rainfall. Morocojo and Xeponset. On the way to Monterey we pass unpreten- tious Morocojo, which, however, is in the center of the vegetable country, and in that line is nearly first among shipping-points. The train runs along underneath the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. M7 shadow of an ocean-bluff, and we glide suddenly into the grounds of famous Del Monte. Del Monte The builders of Del Monte had the unrivaled attractions of California to choose among, and they placed their faith lure by the shores of Monterey Bay, where four hundred years ago civilization first sought a landing-place on our Western shore. A climate of perennial spring, river and forest, ocean and bay, lake and mountain, wild cliffs and gentle beaches, a wealth of strange sea things, and of the life of the wilderness, and withal charm- ing historic association and the tales of tradition; these they found and encom- passed into one principality, directed nature, encouraged her, added where addition meant charm, lost none of the grace of wildness, but gained the beauty of accessibility. Then they built a palace of delight, where those who live out-of-doors might have a shelter within walls equally pleasing, equally enchanting. To wield a wand to create such an abiding place was most difficult, but Hotel Del Monte, with its magnificent appointments, its great verandas, parlors, halls, recreation-rooms, its magnificent suites, its own lighting, heating, and water plants, its artistic harmony in colors and management everywhere, meets the needs so that no one returning from sunset on the shore with the forest of Del Monte sighing a lullaby need go indoors regretful because of repellent walls, or lack of cheery invitation. The fireplaces at Del Monte roar and crackle and sparkle as if there were a smiling snowstorm with- out; the high ceilings are lost in shadow; outline of window and door are gone; softly and dreamily this place greets one by firelight Becoming more material and specific, it should be noted that Del Monte has a fine club-house, a magnificent new bathing pavilion, the best polo-grounds in America, tennis-courts and golf-courses on which championship matches are played, glass-bottomed boats to view the wonders of the ocean, a fine lake for boating, a mysterious maze for those who wish to lose themselves, an Arizona garden growing everything desert-like, except Indian warwhoops and mirages, flowers, walks, drives, groves unnumbered, and the magnificent seventeen-mile drive. The drive is macadamized throughout. It is through the historic town of Monterey, along the shore to Pacific Grove, westwardly to Carmel Bay over the the ridge and again through Monterey. It is a wonderful drive, and only a few of the principal sights can be mentioned — the monument in honor of Father Serra, the old lighthouse on Point Pinos, the great pines of the ridge, Cypress Point and its wonderful cypress-trees, the seal-rookeries, Moss Beach, beautiful Carmel Bay, Carmel Mission (a side-trip), and the quaint town of Monterey. To rest at Del Monte is ecstasy, but for those who would play there are games of tennis, croquet, golf, and polo; riding, driving, fishing, sailing, and special social fes- tivities. The domain of Del Monte includes some wild and almost unexplored mountains, with fine trout-streams, where the sportsman may spend happy days. Del Monte must, of course, be taken to be enjoyed; it does not grow by descrip- tion nor cast its charm through words. Both the Southern Pacific and an electric line connect Del Monte with Monterey and Pacific Grove. Monterey. One mile from Del Monte and we are in Monterey. It is a city of quaint and pleasant homes, of old-time adobes a::d of historic buildings and monu- ments. The town of two thousand people lies in a hollow between the wooded hills to the west and Del Monte to the east. The place is progressive, with fine streets, schools, electric-fight plant, good water system, bank, park, etc. It has an excellent beach. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 249 Historically, Monterey is the most interesting point on the coast. On the first of September, 1840, a convention met here and framed a State constitution under which Peter H. Burnett was elected governor in the following December. The building in which the convention met is now used as a hall. Monterey was California's first capital. Here were the first brick and wood buildings, the first post-office and the first theater in California. The Bay of Monterey is second only to San Francisco as a harbor, and through that Monterey is yet to have an era of great importance. The scenic and climatic- attractions of this vicinity are so unusual and so famous that the material side of affairs has been the subject of little comment. Yet Monterey exports many train- loads of dairy products, potatoes, beans, sugar-beets, honey, fruit, and cattle every year. It is the most important tan-bark shipping place on the coast. The canning and drying of fish and abalone are important industries. The back country is chiefly "down the coast" in that sixty miles of semi-wilderness, valleys, and moun- tains south of Monterey along the ocean. The rich Carmel Valley is responsible for a large part of Monterey's shipments, but the country as a whole holds its resources practically undeveloped. Fishing and hunting in such a well-watered, well-tim- bered country are, of course, good. The government has recently established a military post here, with building accommodations for several thousand troops. Pacific Grove. Pacific Grove is on the shores of the bay two miles ocean- ward from Monterey. It is the terminus of the branch line, and is one of the most popular of the higher-class, inexpensive seaside resorts of Califorina. It is the annual meeting-place of many educational, religious, and fraternal societies. The town is built on a wooded promontory, commanding an excellent view of Monterey Bay and the Pacific ocean. The Chautauqua has assembled here annually for the last twenty years, and it is a favorite Methodist resort. There are no saloons. All the leading churches have strong organizations. "Housekeeping cottages" are plentiful, and rent reasonable. It is an ideal family resort, summer and winter. The town with its permanent popu- lation of two thousand people, has all urban conveniences. It is very well built indeed, and has good hotels, boarding-houses, and bath-houses. The six miles of ocean front between Pacific Grove and Carmel Bay include many famous points of interest — the lighthouse, Lake Majella, Moss Beach, the clashing currents at Point Joe, Seal Rock, with its diving inhabitants, and Cypress Point, with its rare cypress grove, the only one on the American continent. These "Cedars of Lebanon, - ' wind-swept, stand protectingly together, facing the stormblows of the Pacific now as unflinchingly as they have for the past thousand years. These are all on the seventeen-mile drive, and beyond the cypress grove the road leads out upon a cliff high above the beautiful Carmel Bay. A short side-trip takes one to the famous Carmel Mission, now one hundred and thirty years old. Pacific Grove and Monterey have glass-bottomed boats, through which to study the wonderful life of Monterey Bay. The former is the site of the Hopkins Seaside Laboratory, where students gather from all parts of the country to study marine life. It is the result of exhaustive investigations that proved Monterey Bay to haw- greater variety of sea-life than any other body of water in the world. Fishing and bathing are excellent. There are times when the fish in the bay are so plentiful that they may be scooped in by hand. Monterey Bay is the only regularly sched- uled stopping-point for whalers en route between the Arctics and the Tropics. El Carmelo and the Pacific Ocean House are resort hotels. Del Monte, Monterey, and Pacific Grove — there is no pleasing him who is not satisfied with their offerings. 250 OVER THE RANGE SANTA CRUZ FROM THE BROAD-GAUGE LINE. Returning to the main Coast Line, ten miles from Castroville we arrive at Pajaro, or, as it is now called, East Watsonville. It is the junction of the Santa Cruz branch with the main line, and being but a mile to the city of Watsonville is a part of that city commercially, and one of its two stations. The local branch to Santa Cruz is twenty miles in length, touching first the city of Watsonville. Watsonville and Pajaro Valley. Watsonville is the commercial center of one of the most wonderful valleys in the world. It is a small valley, as valleys go in California, extending from the shores of Monterey Bay to the foot of the Gabilan Mountains, with a level area of perhaps fifty square miles. If, however, there is any more productive soil in America, the returns are not in. The Pajaro is the center of the apple industry of the Pacific Coast. But the Pajaro Valley is rich, and not alone in apples. Its sugar-beet crop, averaging nearly twenty tons to the acre, and worth at the factory four dollars and fifty cents per ton, amounts to seventy-five thousand tons annually. There are some thirty-five hundred acres of potatoes and onions in the Pajaro Valley, and the section immediately south near the shores of Monterey Bay, and last season almost fabulous returns were reaped in a harvest of high prices — as high as two hundred dollars per acre. The berries of the Pajaro Valley are one of the best results of intensive cultivation in the state. Last year's berry crop exceeded over four hun- dred carloads; in addition to these commodities there were shipments of pears, apricots, prunes, beans, hay, lumber, hops, and oats in considerable quantities. Watsonville is, of course, as the center of such a valley, one of the most prosper- ous towns in the state. The climate is similar to that of Monterey, and Watson- ville is a delightful place in which to live. Its seaside resort is Moss Landing, a few miles distant, where there is a fine beach. Watsonville has the best of schools and churches and commercial houses that will compare favorably with those of large cities. Of course sewers, light, etc., are well looked after. The business part of town always impresses one with its unusual activity. There is a fine public square in the center and many handsome buildings on the main street. Residence build- ing at present is very active. Watsonville has a large sugar factory operated jointly with the one at Spreckles. It also has lumber mills, evaporators, foundries, etc., and a company has been organized to start a cannery. The Shore Trip to Santa Cruz. The ride from Watsonville to Santa Cruz is a beautiful one, a great part of the way being along the cliffs of Monterey Bay in full view of that historic and beautiful body of water. To the right is range of the Santa Cruz Mountains, with fertile fields and orchards in the foreground. Through the car-windows is given a changing panorama of wooded headlands, the waters of the bay, the peninsula beyond, the beaches surf-margined, and across the way the arroyos of woodland streams. Aptos. Once a famous resort of Monterey Bay, but now sleeping through the summers. The cottages are filled by people who want peace and quietude. It is a favorite resort of artists seeking the picturesque in mountains and shores. Back of Aptos is one of the Spreckels estates, the beautiful Aptos Ranch. The mountains have lost most of their timber, but are yet haunts of campers and sportsmen. Large quantities of wood and a great deal of fruit are shipped hence. SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS. 252 OVER THE RANGE Opal. A picturesque point, shipping-place for a large lumber company, the mountains to the back of the station providing much timber and wood. Capitola. One of the best known of California summer resorts, well con- ducted and increasing in popularity year by year, the records showing an increase of travelers every season. Capitola is at the mouth of Soquel Canon, partly on the beach and partly on the wooded meadow at the back of it. It is a resort and a resort only. The rows of cottages, vine and flower-clad, amongst the trees, are for summer pleasure-seekers; so is the dancing-pavilion, with the stage, the pleasure-wharf, the grove of quaint oaks, the well-kept beach with its southern exposure, and the fine hotel. The climate is most delightful the year round, and many of the pleasure-seekers own their homes here, coming and going as inclination suggests; fishing, boating, bathing, riding, clam-bakes, dances, theatricals, mountain-climbs, golf, tennis, etc., take up the time of the energetic. An electric line runs to Santa Cruz, whence special Southern Pacific trains are run on midsummer nights to the Big Trees. Sailta Cruz. The city of the holy cross is at the northern end of Monterey Bay on a picturesque headland, where it climbs on terraced hills up toward the blue peak of Loma Prieta rising four thousand two hundred feet above the city by the sea. Santa Cruz is one of the prettiest, best built, best governed, and most pictur- esquely located cities in the United States. Few indeed can compare with it. Santa Cruz City was the first in its size on the coast to own an electric-lighting plant, sewer system, water-works, and a free library. The city has nine churches, with good edifices, eight public schools, with property valued at one hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars, high school with graduates accredited to the State University, and several private schools. The assessed valuation of this city of seven thousand people is about five million dollars, and its bank deposits nearly two million dol- lars. It has seventy-two miles of bituminous sidewalks, six miles of paved streets, thirty miles more graded, and an eight-mile electric railway. The streets are sprinkled by sea-water pumped into a tank by a wave-motor, a local invention. The city water supply comes from mountain springs. The homes of this remarkable city "of endless summer with no last rose" are, of course, beautiful. Amusements about Santa Cruz are too numerous to describe fully — out-of-door games of all kinds in summer or winter, yachting, rowing, swimming, fishing, driving, loafing in the flower-gardens, whipping any one of the twenty good trout- streams in the Santa Cruz Mountains — surely there is enough to do in the city of the bay, the ocean, the mountains, and the forest. Commercially, Santa Cruz is of much importance. It is the terminus of the broad-gauge branch and the narrow-gauge main line of the Southern Pacific. The soil is very rich, and the orchards and vineyards very remunerative. The powder- works, among the largest in the world, are in a canon of their own, three miles from town. The vines and apples of Santa Cruz have captured mam' medals. Here as elsewhere there arc many industries awaiting development, much land needing intensive cultivation. 254 OVER THE RANGE SAN BENITO COUNTY.— THE VALLEYS OF SAN BENITO AND SAN JUAN. The trip over the narrow-gauge from Santa Cruz to San Jose and Alameda is another chapter. It is best first to return to the main Coast Line at Pajaro (Paharo ? — bird), and go northward. In the Pajaro Valley we pass Vega, one of the greatest berry-shipping points, Aromas, growing in importance as an apple-forwarding station, and then enter the scenic pass through the Santa Cruz Mountains. We cross the Pajaro River over a fine steel bridge, stop a moment at that dairy center and apple-station, Chittenden, amid pretty environment, and then for another moment have fleeting glimpses of the beautiful valley of San Juan and the white-walled town of the same name on the hillside three miles away. Here is Betabel, a spur-track, where the farmers of San Juan haul 40,000 tons of beets each season to be sent to the Spreckels factory. A little way beyond is the passenger-station Sargent, lying between the river bank and the hills. It is an important shipping-point for farm produce and cattle, just above being the famous Sargent Ranch; but it is chiefly important as the railroad station of the San Juan Valley. Sail »Tllclll. It is a beautiful drive along the wooded Pajaro, up through the vegetable fields and orchards to San Juan. This town of a thousand people is of great historic interest, and to-day among the quaintest, prettiest puablos of all Cali- fornia. Before the railroad came south from San Francisco, San Juan was the most important point between San Jose and Los Angeles. Stages ran to Visalia, to Santa Barbara, and Los Angeles, to Salinas and Monterey and to Hollister. Its strategic value in the matter of passes is recognized to-day by the telephone company, the lines of which diverge from San Juan in the direction that the coach and six fifty years ago went lumbering down the roads. The broad, sandy streets are over-arched with old trees. There is an inde- scribable air of early California about San Juan. The older inhabitants are for the larger part residents of a half-century or more, who are satisfied with their quiet prosperity. Crowning the hill and overlooking the town and valley is the ancient plaza, sur- rounded by the famous San Juan Bautisto Mission, the governor's house, and other ancient buildings. The mission and its environment more faithfully reflect the early life of the Spanish padres and their neophytes than any other in the state. On the side of the plaza adjoining, is a picturesque old adobe — the governor's house, head- quarters of the Mexican General, Seiior Castro, commanding the Mexican forces, during the Mexican War. Here news of the declaration of war came to Fremont, and changed a host into an enemy. Down the hill Fremont fought his first skirmish — over on yon mountain peak he first unfolded in California the American flag. It was in March, 1846, that Captain Fremont and his command, exploring California "for scientific purposes," stopped at San Juan to rest his tired command. Permission was given, but the disposition of his troop to trade for the best horses in the valley, his evident desire to buy all the portable supplies of the mission, and the rumors of war caused General Castro to invite him to take to the trail. To this the Pathfinder replied to the effect that when he was through trading he would go — and not before. Thereupon the General summoned the faithful of Mexico to drive the Americanos ciel Norte into the sea. Captain Fremont retreated up the beautiful San Juan Canon to Gabilan (Fremont) Peak, and there, on March 10, 1846, he unfurled the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 255 stars and stripes and awaited attack from the five hundred armed and mounted Mexicans. The latter paraded in the valley with all the pomp and circumstance of war, but did not attack, the General tersely explaining the situation in a proclama- tion, saying they gathered together to fight — not to climb mountains. The pro< la- mation ended with "Salganse al plan; yo no soy cierbo" (Come down to the plain; I am not an elk). Fremont came down, into the San Joaquin Valley, which was perhaps as well for the Mexican caballeros. Aside from its great historic interest, the San Juan Valley, with its forty thousand arable acres of hill and valley land, is noted for its productions. Apples and pears grow to perfection; mustard, potatoes, onions, berries, asparagus, beans, sugar-beets, and prunes yield heavy crops; while the grain, hay, cattle, and dairy produce of San Juan have made it famous for forty years. There is the quaintest old adobe hotel imaginable in San Juan, while Cottage Grove Farm nearby is a summer resort with many attractions, including fishing, hunting, riding, tennis, etc. The climate of the San Juan Valley is perfect, or as nearly so as one can desire it. Hollister. The beautiful town of Hollister is not far from the Gabilan Moun- tains, at the foot of a high mound, which commands an excellent view of the valley. This mound or hill is the city's park. On the level valley floor at its foot are the houses of Hollister. No town in all the country in proportion to its size has so many beautiful shade-trees as Hollister, and none more flowers. There are many unusu- ally line residences in this prosperous town of two thousand people. It is the county- seat, and even the jail and court-house show the result of civic pride — albeit the town has the remarkable record of having had one criminal case in three years' time to consider. A force of men is kept constantly at work upon sidewalks, shade-trees, and streets under the city's direction. THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY AND SAN JOSE. The Santa Clara Valley proper begins with the section about the junction of the main line with the Hollister branch, and extends northward to Palo Alto. This dustless valley is in many respects the most remarkable valley in the world. It in many things more nearly represents the ideal in rural homes than any other section, and its progress in that direction is worthy of close study by the sociologist. A glance at the map will show the bay of San Francisco to run southward for some forty miles with the San Francisco peninsula to the left. Just south of these, fronting on the southern end of the bay and narrowing to the left into the peninsula, is the Santa Clara Valley. The climate is superb. Anywhere in the million acres of this fertile land one may enjoy a perfect climate. The word "perfect" is used advisedly. The climate of Santa Clara Valle\ is tonic; not too hot, not too cold. It has the proper changes of dampness, of dryness, of crispness, and dry warmth. Its nights are invariably comfortable. The sunshiny days are as numerous as in any part of the state. Its season's rainfall is ample, and at the Droper time in winter. The summers are cloudless. Scenically, the valley is beautiful. The mountains surrounding it possess an infinite variety, and never tire. The walls to the east are green to the very top of Alt. Hamilton in spring and a rampart of gold in autumn. In the spring, when the one hundred and twenty-five square miles of orchards are in bloom, the valley is submerged in an ocean of dazzling white that rolls up the mountain-sides, covers the floor, fills every ravine, and encompasses the green-walled cities. The roads of Santa Clara Valley are of the features that have made its rural home* 256 OVER THE RANGE famous. There are over three hundred miles of graded boulevards, sprinkled throughout the dry season by the county. Through the endless orchards, go where you will, bicycles, carriages, automobiles, and riding-horses are always in evi- dence. The topography of the valley, as well as the roads, has much to do with this. The valley floor is almost flat, though the foothills and mountains afford a very different country with different drives. One may drive all day without seeing an ill-kept orchard or a home without its flowers, ornamented grounds, and drives. What is the material side of the picture ? Forty-five cured and green fruit pack- ing-houses, eight canneries, twenty wineries answer for the fruits. Out of these go annually (measured by ten-ton cars) over one thousand two hundred cars of canned goods, over one thousand cars of green fruit, over six thousand cars of cured fruit, and one thousand cars of berries and vegetables. Its quicksilver mines are the largest in America, its lumber mills among the most important in the state, its cattle, dairy, hay, and grain interests very large. Carnadero. At this junction is one of the famous Morse seed farms. It has an area of one thousand two hundred acres, and hundreds of men are employed. Hundreds of tons of garden and flower seed are shipped east and to Europe, there to be distributed by the wholesale seedmen. From here is also shipped thousands of tons of sugar-beets each year to the Spreckels factory. One of the Spreckels large ranches lies to the east of Carnadero, the warm farm-house being located pictur- esquely amid beautiful grounds on a hilltop. Just below is the famous Soap Lake, now only of thirty or forty acres, but before drainage reduced its area occupying several hundred acres. This section by the foothills, with its rich lowlands, suitable for both orchards and vegetables, is known as San Felipe. Grilroy. The thriving city of Gilroy, with a population of about two thousand, is the metropolis of the southern part of the Santa Clara Valley. It is two miles north of Carnadero Junction. Gilroy, like Hollister, has beautiful houses, with well-shaded streets. It is supplied with gas and an electric plant. Ten miles of street are paved and graded. The little city has an assessed valuation of over $1,500,000. There are eight hundred school-children, good schools, two papers, one bank, good hotels, six churches, etc. The oldest inhabitants settled here (Old Gilroy) in 1845, and have found it good enough ever since. Indeed, you cannot drive the old residents from Gilroy, and they die only as a matter of variety. The valley here is four miles wide. The mountain and valley territory tributary to the town is one hundred square miles. Land values in the valley range from fifty to three hundred dollars per acre. A fruit-packing house is being built, and there is a good opening for a fruit and vegetable cannery. The products of this part of the Santa Clara speak for the wonderful richness of the soil. The town is encompassed with prune, peach, almond, pear, and apple orchards yielding a thousand tons of cured fruit last season, besides fruit shipped green. Grain and hay are sure crops in this section, hundreds of car- loads being marketed. The Santa Cruz Mountains to the west have good forests of oak and redwood, and the lumber products form a considerable item in shipments. Gilroy is very prosperous and is growing steadily. Rainfall is ample, and the water supply excellent and there are artesian wells all over the valley. Gilroy Hot Spring's. There are many beautiful drives to be made in the neighborhood of Gilroy, and among them the one to Gilroy Hot Springs is best known. A daily stage takes the traveler eastward thirteen miles to this famous resort in the coast Range, where one is charged twelve dollars a week for board, TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 2 57 lodging, and the privilege of getting well. These hot springs arc among the best known in the state. Passing Rucker, station for a rich subdivision north of Gilroy, we cross Llagas Creek and reach San Martin. Sail Martin. This little town of a hundred people is the (enter of a very rich sec lion now being subdivided and sold to settlers at reasonable rates. It has several business houses, a fine school, hotel, etc. Near here is the well-known San Martin Ranch, on which several hundred people have planted orchards and vineyards in the last few years. Passing Tennant Station, the next important slop is Morganhill. Morganhill. This successful colony of a thousand people is growing at the rate of forty percent a year. It is charmingly located at the foot of an isolated peak SAN JOSE. known as Nob Hill, and not far from Murphy's Peak, whence beautiful views are obtained. Morganhill is a temperance town, with four churches, good schools, three school- houses, a good water system, a weekly paper, a fine depot, several large stores, etc. The town is only ten years old. Fruit, wine, wood, hay, and grain are the principal products. There is room for a good dairy and for a packing-house. Land is sold at prices ranging from fifteen to one hundred and fifty dollars per acre. Madrone, within fourteen miles of San Jose. Madrone is a pleasant town of several hundred people, and is the station for many resorts. Mountain Home, with its deer-hounds, hunting and fishing clubs, etc., is reached by a two hours' westward ride three times a week. In the opposite direction Madrone Mineral Springs is about the same distance, reached tri-weekly by stage. Its altitude is two thousand feet, and its waters are particularly good for stomach troubles. The Indians knew them as "Great Medicine," and it is said that the tribe that camped in that vicinity surprised the Spanish padres with their appetites. There are several other resorts, such as Glen Willis (three miles away). Eden "Vale. Several miles south of San Jose in a magnificent orchard coun- try, is Eden Vale. It is not a town, just a settlement of beautiful homes, with rural mail delivery, and practically all the advantages of city life, with no disadvantages. All deciduous fruits do very well. The rich soil is thirty feet deep. 2 5 S OVER THE RANGE Passing Valbrick we are taken through the suburbs of San Jose to the center of that charming city. San Jose. San Jose is a city of thirty thousand people, of whom some twenty- three thousand live within the narrow city limits. It is unlike any other California town. To all who have visited San Jose, the word recalls something strongly individual. In public buildings and in business blocks there are few cities of its size to rival it. It is almost in the center of the main Santa Clara Valley, and through railroads and wagon-roads commands the entire valley and the surrounding mountains, five miles distant to the east and eight miles away to the west. The broad-gauge lines of the Southern Pacific extend northward along the peninsula to San Francisco (fifty miles away), south to Los An- geles and beyond, eastward via Niles to eastern and northern California and beyond, besides local lines to the quicksilver mines of New Almaden and Los Gatos. The narrow-gauge extends from San Jose through the Santa Cruz Mountains southwest to the sea at Santa Cruz; and northeastward via the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay to Alameda and San Francisco. County turnpikes extend in all directions from San Jose as a center. San Jose as a health resort has the same ad- vantages as the valley at large. In the summer the highest temperature — unless there be a forest- fire — is rarely above ninety degrees, ninety-four degrees being the maximum in 1901. The air lacks humidity, and there is never any evidence of that stifling summer heat known in the east. San Jose is indeed better known as a summer resort than as a winter one. The nights are invariably cool, and in the shade the hottest days are very pleasant. Sunstroke, like cholora-infantum and typhoid-fever, is unknown. The air is a tonic sum- mer and winter; never a burden like an overheated blanket. In the winter the climate is almost semi- tropic. The city possesses two resort hotels, besides several commercial houses, and many good boarding-houses. Nicely furnished rooms are to let to transient -esidents. The reasonableness of the charges will be surprising. The hotel Ven- dome, best known of Santa Clara Valley hostelries, occupies a park of its own in the heart of town. There is a large swimming-pavilion, with bowling-alley, club- rooms, etc. The golf-links and tennis-grounds are of the best. The hotel St. James is near the business center of town, opposite St. James Park. The nearest of San Jose's principal attractions :s Alum Rock Canon Hot Springs and park, five miles east of the city. This six-hundred-acre park with its sixteen curative mineral springs is the city's pride. It includes a magnificent mountain canon with high walls, perennial stream, groves, springs, walks, and drives. There ire deer-parks, aviary, plunge and tub-baths, restaurant, fountains, etc. An electric line gives half-hourly service. Alum Rock Canon gives tourists the best opportunity in California to visit a wild mountain canon. From its mouth the road climbs upward to Mt. Hamilton. Lick Observatory. The great seven hundred and fifty thousand dollar ob- mm; MT. HAMILTON. 260 OVER THE RANGE servatorv, given to the world by James Lick, who rests beneathits base, is twenty-seven miles from San Jose, and four thousand four hundred and forty feet above sea-level. Santa Clara County spent one hundred thousand dollars in building the best moun- tain road in the world to its site. The trip is made by stage, automobile, or bicycle; the stage trip occupies about four hours each way. A day is given to the trip, except that on Saturday the start is made at noon and San Jose reached, returning at mid- night, the great telescope being given over to the public on that night. This thirty- six-inch refractor is the second largest in the world, and anybody after new worlds to conquer can find any number with its aid. LICK OBSERVATORY. The Santa Clara Mission. Is reached by a three-mile electric line ride from San Jose along the beautiful Alameda, and is more fully described under the heading of Santa Clara. Congress Springs is twelve miles distant from San Jose in the Santa Cruz moun- tains, reached by a lovely orchard-lined drive with an electric line, or via Los Gatos. The New Almaden quicksilver mines, twelve miles away, are the objective points of another day's journey by narrow or broad-gauge rail line. Beautiful Lomas Azulas, ten miles to the southeast, and as fine a foothill paradise as Smiley Heights in Redlands, gives another delightful day. Los Gatos is reached in twenty minutes by the train, and Stanford University in a half-hour. Lovely drives along the shaded avenues may be made to the Willows, to Berryessa, to Campbell, to Cuper- tino, and Saratoga, great fruit-growing centers. The quays of the south Bay Yacht Club are reached in a nine-mile drive. There are a dozen mountain trout-streams to be encountered in four or five miles. Good quail-hunting is near by, and the wilder mountains have plenty of deer, and even mountain-lion and bear. The roads are unexcelled for automobiling, driving, riding, and cycling. The climate gives one the out-of-door fever the year round. There are more automobiles in San Jose now than in any other place in California, outside of San Francisco, and possibly Los Angeles. The Big Trees — the famous giants of the redwood groves — are an hour's ride away. With such attractions, and with a wealth of fruit and flowers that is amazing, it is not surprising that San Jose is looking forward to the time when it shall be unsurpassed among the resort-places of the world. San Jose claims to be the educational tenter of the Pacific Slope. Stanford University is almost suburban to it; Santa Clara College is three miles away, and 262 OVER THE RANGE the famous University of the Pacific, the College of Notre Dame, the State Normal School, and high schools, grammar schools, etc., are in the city limits. The city has in addition to Alum Rock Canon, two parks (of about thirty-three acres) in the city limits. The public utilities include a $250,000 city hall, a $50,000 Carnegie library, seven school buildings, worth from $15,000 to $75,000 each, a $200,000 Normal School, a $200,000 Postomce, county court-house and hall of records, valued at $500,000, thirty miles of electric street railway, fifty-five miles of sewers, thirty passenger-trains daily, gas and electricity, and many of the most attractive homes in California. As a business center it is the most important place between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Santa Clara. This city of four thousand people is but three miles from San Jose. Their destinies are one. They are connected by an electric line, and possess identical interests. Santa Clara possesses man}- (harming homes, and the old Santa Clara Mission has much of romantic and historic interest. It was founded January 12, 1777, and has many rare and ancient relics. The Mission is in the hands of the Santa Clara College; visitors are welcomed. The Court of Flowers is of signal beauty. A hundred and twenty-live years ago some beautiful-toned bells were given Santa Clara Mission with the understanding that they should ring each day forever — and to this day the promise has been kept. So Santa Clara seems destined to keep all promises made for it, and to be a fitting companion of San Jose. Lawrence. A place of two hundred people in the midst of a rich seed, hay, wine, and dairy country. Supplies San Francisco with much cream and milk. Sunnyvale. In a very rich fruit section; an important shipping point for green fruit and wine; needs a packing-house. Mountain View. At the upper end of the Santa Clara Valley, eleven miles from San Jose, Mountain View is this growing and progressive town. Its products are wine, hay, grain, fruit, brick, and beets in the order named. 'Wine is shipped hence all over Europe and America. The population of this prettily built town among the oaks is about twelve hundred, with a tributary population of about three thousand five hundred. Mayfield. This beautiful town, a mile and a half from Stanford University, has a population of one thousand. It is well built, has electric lights, good water system, a fine new school building, a newspaper, etc. It is rich in wines, fruit (ber- ries particularly), hay, dairy products, and vegetables. Its nearness to the University adds to its desirability as a residence section. Palo Alto. A mile north of Mayfield is the growing university town of Palo Alto, a place of twenty-five hundred people. Its proximity to the grounds of Stan- ford University, its fine climate and excellent society, the character of its government, making it ideal for homes, has resulted in unexampled prosperity. The place has kindergartens, private schools, two preparatory academies, grammar and high- schools, etc. The public-school buildings cost fifty thousand dollars. The town owns an electric light, sewer, and water system, has a free library, bank, newspapers, and many business houses. Leland Stanford Junior University. The gateway to the University is opposite the town of Palo Alto. It is surrounded by part of its endowment, the magnificent Palo Alto estate of seventy-three hundred acres. The value of the total endowment is estimated at thirty-five million dollars. The University buildings are the most beautiful group of public buildings in America. They are but parts of one plan, and are constructed of Santa Clara Valley brown. sandstone throughout — beautiful 264 OVER THE RANGE and restful in color, and in pleasing contrast to the walls of green of the surrounding hills and the great campus in front. The buildings of the University are not piled sky-high, but with long corridors rise two stories for the most part completely inclos- ing a beautiful quadrangle, in itself about a ninth of a mile long by eighty yards broad. The massive memorial arch in front, and the beautiful memorial church with its cathedral-like interior, great arches and allegorical windows are the most imposing features of the group. Flanking the main buildings to the right is Encina Hall for the boys and Roble Hall for the girls, while across the campus are the new chemistry building and the museum. Tuition at the University is free, and the equipment is that naturally to be expected in the richest endowed university in the world. The students of the present semester number fifteen hundred. Stanford Stock Farm. Adjoins the University grounds, and is one of the famous stock-farms of America. Many record-breaking horses were raised here by Senator Stanford, and many lie buried beneath its sod. Meillo Park. A mile north of Palo Alto, "the village of beautiful homes," is a place of suburban homes for many wealthy residents of San Francisco. Here are beautiful estates, both to the mountains and to the shore. The country here, as about Palo Alto, is especially rich in berries, nursery-stock, and conservatories. It has a boys' school, good schools, three churches, three commercial hotels, the Academy of the Sacred Heart, and St. Patrick's Seminary. Like the other penin- sula towns, Menlo Park has a good water and electric system, etc. Fail* Oaks. Sister of Menlo Park, with equally attractive environment. Redwood City. The county-seat of San Mateo County and a place of much commercial and manufacturing importance. Its population of twenty-five hundred people is engaged at home; only recently has the town given any attention to secur- ing suburban settlers from San Francisco. It possesses* the largest tannery in the state, employing one hundred and seventy-five men, and has two others. The Light and Power Company use Redwood as a distributing-point for the peninsula. It is the chief lumber-shipping point of the north coast line, the lumber being hauled from the mountains rising back of it. The Redwood Forest, L.a Honda, and Pescadero. Redwood and San Mateo have a "back country." One may go to the pleasant village of Woodside, three miles distant, to Portola Valley, a pretty summer resort place, or on beyond over the ridge-top to Pescadero. At Grand View we can see San Francisco Bay, the Santa Clara Valley, Mt. Hamilton, Mt. Diablo, and the peninsula towns. Seventeen miles from Redwood on this road is La Honda, a famous resort amid redwoods, with excellent hunting and fishing. Many people from San Francisco spend summer after summer in this charming camp. Passing the camp village of Harrison, we arrive at Pescadero, thirty miles from Redwood, and near the ocean. Pebble Beach, with its acres of mock brilliants, the San Gregorio Lagoon and its tributary stream, where the fish flock to meet the stranger, the Big Basin a few hours' ride away — these are the attractions of Pescadero. Accommodations, hotel and camp, are good at all the points named. Sail Carlos. The town of San Carlos is an ideal residence place, two miles north of Redwood City. The beauty of its surrounding hills and the loveliness of its drives cannot be described. Belmont. Another residence town suburban to San Francisco, a mile north of San Carlos. It has an excellent military school. Beresford. Yet another village where the city people find the comforts of home. TO THE GOLD EX GATE. 265 San Mateo. A town of twenty-five hundred people, and one of San Francisco's finest suburban home places. It is popular the year round, but in summer is espe- cially favored by the people of San Francisco. In the town itself are many beautiful homes of people of moderate means who have business in San Francisco. Sur- rounding the central part of town and extending up to and beyond Burlingame are magnificent country homes, with grounds in size from an acre up to a thousand. The excellent climate of San Mateo, its wealth of natural beauty in rolling hills, picturesque beach and great oaks, have made it one of the most charming residence districts in the United States. The San Mateo beach is unusually fine, with warm water, owing to the protected position and the tide movement over warm sand. Bath-house accommodations are good. A Yacht Club has its headquarters here. The drives include a canon of remarkable beauty, interior lakes and high ridges amid beautiful estates. The hotel is in a park of its own, and caters to "tourist" travelers. Home sites cost from one hundred to one thousand dollars per acre. Burlillgaine. Is just north of San Mateo, and its attractions, environment, and location is not in any way different. It is perhaps the most exclusive home town in California, and here San Francisco society has its country headquarters. The homes are marvels of beauty, and it is everywhere evident that money and good taste have been important partners with nature in making Burlingame beautiful. The Country Club, with its magnificent home and two hundred and fifty wealthy members, the many golf-links, polo-grounds, etc., bespeak the character of this place. Mlllbrae. The center of the great dairy section just south of San Francisco. This little town sends daily nearly a thousand gallons of milk to San Francisco by rail. Its population of three hundred, and its surrounding neighborhood are en- gaged almost exclusively in dairying. A beautiful drive may be taken from San Mateo through El Cerrito Park, along the county road by the massive Spring Valley Dam and Crystal Springs and San Andreas Lakes to Millbrae or vice versa. Sail Brillio. Tributary to this station are many dairies, vegetable gardens, etc. South Sail Francisco. Is on the "new" line, several trains running via this station. It is an industrial town of about fifteen hundred people, and has more manufactures in proportion to population than any other town in California. The meat company, the pottery works, paint works, brick yard, ice works, etc., handle in and out large quantities of cattle, fresh and cured meats, ice, paint, lard, hay, hides, tallow, pipe, and brick. The town has good schools, streets, and side- walks, and a very promising industrial future. Baden. In the midst of a vegetable section. Colllia. Is the business station for the beautiful San Francisco cemeteries — ? Mt. Olivet, Cypress Lawn, Sholim, Home of Peace and Holy Cross, which are in full view from the train. Colma has an unexcelled dairy, hog and vegetable country tributary to it, and supplies San Francisco's tables to a noticeable extent. The town has about seven hundred people, and is growing. Union Coursing Park is near here. Ocean View and Valencia Street. Are San Francisco's residence district stations. 266 OVER THE RANGE THE NARROW-GAUGE LINE: SANTA CRUZ MOUN- TAINS AND BAY SHORE. Seventy-seven miles of picturesque country lie between Santa Cruz and Alameda along the narrow-gauge — mountains, valleys, and bay shore. Once at Santa Cruz, via the broad-gauge line, one should go as far as San Jose at least, over the narrow- gauge. From the union Santa Cruz Station the line runs through the city, and out through a tunnel-gateway. Thence the road climbs steadily along the western and northern slope of San Lorenzo Cafion, amid the redwood, madrone, laurel, and pine, up into the Santa Cruz Mountains. Below the San Lorenzo runs musically down its terraced pathway, while above the rounded hills swell out one above the other, forest-covered, or turned into oases of orchard and vineyard. The seven miles between Santa Cruz and the Big Trees is a beautiful journey over the well-kept country boulevard, or by rail. Big" Trees. The Big Trees of the Santa Cruz Mountains are of the great redwood forests of California, the Sequoia scmpervirens. They are cousins of the Sequoias of the Sierras (Sequoia gigantea), and in massiveness second only to them. A hundred yards' walk from the Big Trees Station takes one to the foot of the largest, the Giant. Other trees towering up in the sky beyond the power of the eye to measure accurately are near by in groups, or singly in this hillside hollow above the San Lorenzo. General Grant and General Sherman are dignified trees; and the hollow tree, in which Fremont found shelter in 1846, bears his name. These trees are remarkable for both height and girth, single ones now standing reaching up two hundred and seventy-five feet, and being sixty-five feet around. "Family" trees, groups from a single root, have a yet greater base circumference; one family, now almost gone, save the historic ridge or root upon the ground, has a circumference over one hundred feet. Whether one thousand, or two or three thousand years old, for scientists do not agree, these trees give such an aspect of dignity to the scene, create a templed grove of such majesty, that man measuring his temporal life with so narrow a span, may well look upon them as the Immortals. Feltoil. A mile beyond is Felton, junction for the Boulder Creek Branch, station for the town a little way up stream, and shipping-point for vineyards and fruit ranches of Ben Lomond Mountains, Zayante and Scott's Valleys. Wood and lime are important products also. Near Felton are many of the summer resorts hotels and camps that have made the Santa Cruz Mountains famous. The country hereabouts is a vast playground for city people in midsummer, who live here inexpensively — camping, riding, swimming, fishing, hunting, living out of doors. The Boulder Creek Branch runs north in the canon of the San Lorenzo for eight miles, crossing that stream as many times to a junction of Boulder Creek, Bear Creek, and the San Lorenzo. Ben LiOinoml. Is a great resort town, one of the favorites of the mountains. Rowardennan is reached from here by stage. Boulder Creek. Is a newly incorporated town of eight hundred people, the terminus of the branch, and one of the great lumber towns of the coast. From its TO THE GOLDEN (J ATE. 267 three tributary canons, and from over the ridge-tops come each summer thousands upon thousands of wagon-loads of lumber, wood, bark, pickets, posts, and shingles — ? redwood, pine, and oak. While ninety-live percent of its shipments arc now of tin- forest, wine and table-grapes and apples will change that ere long. Boulder Creek is growing too as a resort point. The sawmills, save two or three, are several miles from town in a country beauti- ful with a luxuriance of flowers and vine, of shrubs and forest. Here, among redwoods and pines, the great ox-teams yet haul their train of twenty logs down greased skids to the mill; and here one wishing to acquire strenu- ousness in the use of language may listen to advantage. The fishing is good; deer, quail, wild-pigeons, squirrels, etc., have a covert that is protection enough to make hunting interesting to hunters as well as hunted. Boulder Creek has good water-works, electric lights, a new sewer system, three churches, a public school, a free library, and business houses commensurate with its lively importance. Arcadia, Union Mill, Meelian, Zayante, and Clem. Return- ing to the main narrow-gauge line at Felton our trip is amid mountain-tops, a wild country, and yet hiding many a fine orchard and vineyard. We travel tunnel-wise here also, among the tunnels being the second longest on the system. The names in the margin speaks of resorts and mountain homes. Gleiiwood. This summer-resort station has six summer hotels tributary to it, from one-quarter of a mile to seven miles distant. It possesses a redwood forest park of eighty acres, free to every one. The finest table-grapes in the world are raised hereabouts, and sent by the car- load East. Apples and peaches and wine-grapes are important products, the local winery making 200,000 gallons of wine this season. The large redwoods are nearly three hundred feet high. "Laurel. Like Glenwood, Laurel has a vast area of rich mountain land adapted to the cultivation of wine and table grapes, to apples and other deciduous fruits. Already the annual green-fruit crop sent to market exceeds five hundred tons, and one hundred tons more are forwarded dried. The inhabitants report that the climate "is healthy beyond belief." Magnificent views are had from Laurel of Monterey Bay and the ocean. The station has, of course, many resort hotels tributary. WrijJ'llt. A pleasant summer resort, with a fine fruit country, as elsewhere in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The hills that close in about it produce fifty carloads of table-grapes, twenty carloads of pears, twenty carloads of plums, and seventy-five carloads of prunes, peaches, etc. (green), and you can hardly see where the earth is scratched. Sunset Park, a popular picnic-ground, is three hundred yards from the depot. Alma. Alma is like its western neighbors, a summer-resort station, with a fine country of forty square miles tributary. The six hundred people in this mountain land have hotels or raise fruit or cut wood. A million pounds of fruit and a million pounds of wine went out and through Alma last season. It possesses possibilities in the way of oil-development that may make it famous. Here, indeed, was pro- duced the first oil of the coast in a considerable quantity — successfully burned, by the way, on locomotives nearly twenty years ago. Los Gatos. The town has a population of about two thousand live hundred people, one-half of whom have come here to enjoy the money acquired elsewhere. 268 OVER THE RANGE The producing population writes its returns upon waybills in millions of pounds of canned goods, dried fruit, green fruit, wine, ice, and limestone annually. Under the brow of the mountains, tempered by the Bay of San Francisco, with a good rainfall in winter and none in summer, seven hundred feet above sea-level, Los Gatos is one of the most charming all-year resorts in the world. The lowest temperature in 1900 was twenty-nine degrees above zero, in 1901, thirty-two degrees above. The orange orchards, one of which is some twenty years old, produce oranges equal to any. There are no frosts, and fresh fruits are ripened in the town every day in the year. The town has two good hotels now and. a large resort hotel planned. It has electric light, gas and ice plants. A fifteen-thousand-dollar Carnegie library is now being built. Saratoga and Congress Springs. Saratoga is the western village of Santa Clara County, and like Los Gatos, lies at the mouth of a pass through the moun- tains — five miles north from Los Gatos and ten west from San Jose. Saratoga from its foothill eminence commands a magnificent view of the Santa Clara Valley. This vine-clad, rose-garlanded village has all the attractions of Los Gatos in climate, products, and scenery. Two miles beyond up the canon are beautiful Congress Springs and Hall (known also as Saratoga Springs), with a fine hotel, baths, walks, drives, lake, springs, and streams. The water, which is extensively bottled, has many medicinal qualities. Both Saratoga and Congress Springs are reached by stage from Los Gatos or San Jose. Cupertino. Another pretty west Santa Clara Valley village without a railroad is Cupertino (West-side), some five miles from Sunnyvale and eight miles from San Jose. Just west of Campbell a narrow-gauge branch runs southward ten miles to New Allliaden. The Almaden quicksilver mines have been described else- where. The land along the branch is a fertile orchard, vineyard, and hay country. .Le Franc. Is a wine-shipping point, and the station for the Gaudalupe quick- silver mines in the canon of that name, famous long ago as quicksilver producers- They are once again the scene of activity. Water is being pumped from manv miles of levels, and a hundred men will soon be at work five hundred feet below the earth's surface. Campbell. Four miles southwest of San Jose, on the narrow-gauge main line five miles northeast of Los Gatos, is the model village of Campbell. With its park, public library, churches, grammar and high schools, with its broad streets, shaded with pepper, olive, acacia, umbrella, and English walnut trees, Campbell is one of the most desirable of residence communities. Its population of seven hundred and fifty is increasing largely because of its attractions as a home town. Its industrial establishments include a large cannery, an immense co-operative dried fruit-packing establishment, and another packing-house. The village is in the center of an unsurpassed orchard district At San Jose the narrow-gauge main line joins the broad-gauge line and con- tinues with it to Santa Tiara (both San Jose and Santa Clara have been described elsewhere). It should be noted that a third-rail, giving broad-gauge service, extends from San Jose to Los Gatos. To Alameda Pier the narrow-gauge railway follows the eastern shore of San Frani isco Bay, paralleling the broad-gauge Niles route, which is further inland. The TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 269 towns of the Niles route are described elsewhere, but it may not be amiss to say of those near San Jose that Milpitas is a lively town in a rich fruit and vege- table district, with a large cannery. Warm Springs and [rvington are also sur- rounded by dairy, vegetable, and fruit sections of great wealth, and Irvington is as well an educational center, and the station for the historic old mission of San Jose. AgneWS. Five miles from San Jose is the seal of an asylum for the insane. Recently a large plant for the manufacture of alcohol from refuse molasses from sugar factories has been built. The town is famous for its seed, its apples, Bartlett pears, berries, asparagus, and other vegetables. One orchard of forty acres in pears, yielding ten thousand dollars in one crop (1899). The population of the town is about two hundred. Alviso. Eight miles from San Jose, on a slough from San Fran< is< Bay, is San Jose's "seaport." Here is the gathering-place of the South Bay Yacht Club. There are row-boats to be had, and the marshes afford fine duck-hunting. All along this part of the narrow-gauge line are gun-club houses and preserves. The ducks come here by the thousands in autumn and winter. The tributary section is rich in vegetables and berries. Passing Mowry we reach Newark. The town is a pretty place, built on a part of the grant of the San Jose Mission (1776). Fruit of all kinds does well, and there is a large and increasing output of asparagus, onions, and tomatoes. The soil is very rich. Land is worth here, as elsewhere, in the lower valley from sixty to two hundred dollars per acre. There are both high school and lower grades. The population is about seven hun- dred. Newark is a manufacturing point of importance, with two stove-foundries, car- building shops, Southern Pacific repair shops, salt-works, planing-mill, etc. Centerville. In the center of the valley, is about three miles from Niles, Decoto, and Newark, and is reached from the last named point by a Southern Pacific combined street-car and freight-car system, probably not met with elsewhere. The old town is a progressive, pretty place of five hundred people, and is rich in fruit, grain, hay, and vegetables. It has a good old-fashioned countrv inn. Alvsirado. Has a population of about nine hundred, of which the beet-sugar factory and the foundry employ the majority. The land hereabouts is very valuable, and raises vegetables, sugar-beets, and small fruits to perfection. The salt industrv is growing in importance. Mount Eden. Is another place of value in the way of vegetables, small fruits, hay, and grain. It should be noted that these narrow-gauge-line villages along the bay shore have an unsurpassed climate summer and winter. Russell, West San Lorenzo, West San Leandro. Russell is a vegetable and berry shipping station, while West San Lorenzo and West San Leandro are narrow-gauge shipping-stations for the fertile fruit and vegetable districts that have their home centers nearer the hills. Alameda Point. Is a ship-building and water-shipping station south of Alameda. It has water-front facilities of increasing value. Alameda, which is from thirty-three minutes' to forty-eight minutes' ride, ac- cording to station, from San Francisco, is chiefly a home place for business people of San Francisco, who by the thousand travel back and forth each day on the Southern Pacific Ferry boats and trains, running every fifteen minutes, alternating broad and narrow gauge trains, which service is also given the neighboring suburban cities of 270 OVER THE RANGE Oakland, Berkeley, and Fruitvale, so that the whole eastern mainland shore is the home of many thousands of people, who gain their living in San Francisco. Alameda has a population of about eighteen thousand, and is noted for its mag- nificent streets, houses, and even climate. On the bay shore are several pretty beaches, and in the summer the high-tide coming in over the warm sand furnishes ideal bathing. The climate is milder than that of the city, freer from fog and wind, a little warmer, and altogether very pleasant. The soil is fertile, and that accounts largely for the forest of trees that overhangs the streets, the endless flower-gardens, and bright lawns. The city has forty miles of cement sidewalks. The streets are all good. No city in the country has any finer boulevards. The land is level as if rolled. For bicycles and automobiles Alameda streets are unsurpassed. Alameda has bath-houses for hot and cold salt water bathing along the pictur- esque bay shore. In the opposite direction electric cars and boulevards lead off to the hills about Mills Seminary and Leona Heights, Diamond and Redwood Canons. Lake Chabot and Castro Valley are destinations of pleasant pleasure trips. The city owns its electric-light plant. The public library has twenty-four thou- sand volumes. The schools are of the best in the state, the high-school bearing a wide reputation for excellence. The sewerage and drainage systems are perfect, and good water is obtained from artesian wells. Fifteen miles of electric lines traverse the streets. Churches, banks, business houses, etc., are in keeping with the city's other characteristics. Alameda Mole. Is the bay terminus of the narrow-gauge railway. Here the trains meet the ferry-boats plying between the Mole and the Union Ferry Depot. San Francisco. TO THE YOSEMITE. O one who visits San Francisco can afford to return home without siring nature's great temple of wonders — the Yosemite. The way thither has been greatly smoothed by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and each succeeding year sees improvements in this direction. What was formerly an undertaking of considerable magnitude and difficulty, has now become an easy journey, and one fraught with pleasure. It is only a vacation jaunt, requiring four days to make the round trip. The valley is 259 miles from San Francisco, 178 miles to Berenda, on the route already described in the trip to Los Angeles, thence twenty-one miles by rail to Raymond, and sixty miles by stage to the valley. It is now all rail to the foot- hills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where the traveler is transferred to the most approved pattern of stages (or carriages, really), and is delightfully whirled up into the Land of Wonders over an excellent road, through giant timber, across ice-cold rivulets, and past cataracts which send their spray into the sunlight, em- bellished with the colors of the rainbow. Mr. Ben C. Truman, the veteran trav- eler and writer of the Pacific coast, speaks as follows concerning this wonderland: "Some few years ago we visited the Yosemite in company with a gentleman who had traveled largely, and who had written much of the scenic attractions of Europe, Asia, and America, and who exclaimed, as we reached 'Inspiration Point': 'My God! self-convicted as a spendthrift in words, the only terms applicable to this spot I have wasted on minor scenes.' And it was unfortunately true, that language failed to give adequate utterance to the emotion of my friend upon that occasion, and his hitherto facile pen failed to perform its functions with its characteristic felicity and brilliancy. This has been the case with many, however, if not with all others; and thus the pre-eminent grandeur and magnificence of the Yosemite remains, after all, untold. Indeed its charms must really be seen and felt, for it is an absolute fact that neither pencil nor brush nor photographic process can give them faithful portraiture." The Yosemite Valley is about 150 miles, in an almost easterly direction, from San Francisco, and nearly midway of the state between the northern and southern boundaries. It was for many vcars the rendezvous, or permanent abiding place, of hos- tile Indians, who had a legend for every point of interest, whether of water or rock. The place was first seen in 1850 by a number of white men who had formed themselves into a military company to punish or compel peace with bands of murderous Indians. It was taken posses- sion of in March, 185 1, by an expedition under the command of Captain Boling, which invaded the oboriginal stronghold, killed several of its defenders, and cither stampeded or compelled peace with the rest. The valley is some fifteen miles long by about one-third of that distance in width, and is undoubtedly the most won- 271 YOSEMITE. A Valley of Wonders. The Climax of Grandeur and Beauty. ?'/ EL CAPITAN, YOSEMITE VALLEY. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 273 derful combination of chasm and dome, cliff and canon, mountain and valley, river and waterfall, cataract and streamlet, winter and summer, and sunshine and shadow, to be seen in the world — especially within a radius of eight or ten miles. Among the most noted and majestic elevations, which rise right up vertically, many of these seeming like hewn rock, are: El Capitan, 3,300 feet above the floor of the valley; Cathedral Rock, 2,660 feet above the valley; Three Brothers, 3,830 feet; The Sentinel, 3,043 feet, with cascades of 3,000 feet fall; Washington Col- umn, 1,875 f eet ; Dome and Royal Arches, 3,568 feet, down which descends a cat- aract of 1,000 feet; the Half Dome, 4,737 feet; Cloud's Rest, 6,150 feet; Glacier Point, 3,200; Sentinel Dome, 4,150; Eagle Point, 4,200, and many others of greater or less altitudes. The most noted waterfalls are the Yosemite, which first dis- plays an unbroken descent 1,500 feet, then 600 feet of partly hidden cataracts, and a final leap of 400 feet, 2,526 in all; Bridal Veil, 900 feet; Vernal Falls, 400, and Nevada Falls, 600 feet. There are many other points of interest, conspicu- ous among which are the Merced River, Mirror Lake, and romantic drives and climbs without number. There are a number of good hotels in the valley and tourists are driven right up to their doors. The best time for visiting the falls is from the first of April until the end of July, but it is accessible until the snows of November close up its means of ingress and egress for several months. The Kig" Trees. Thirty-five miles from Raymond is the Wawona Hotel (formerly Clark's), one of the most exquisite spots in the Sierra Nevada. There is an abundance of game near by, such as bear, deer (in great plenty), moun- tain quail, grouse, and smaller game, while the adjacent streams abound in trout. It is from this hotel that tourists make their pilgrimage to the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, which is six miles, and is made in a carriage, and for which there is no extra charge for those holding through tickets to and from the Yosemite Valley. In this mighty grove there may be seen a large number of trees more than 300 feet in height, and varying from 50 to 93 feet in circumference, according to Professor Whitney's official measurement. The Calaveras Grove, which was the first one discovered (by a hunter named A. T. Dowd, in 1852), has a magnificent lot of mammoth trees, also pierc- ing the clouds at heights exceeding 300 feet, and measuring 80, go, and 100 feet around at the ground. Most of these have marble slabs containing the names of distinguished soldiers, navigators, statesmen, poets, travelers, and authors. The Calaveras Grove is 131 miles from San Francisco by rail, and 44 by stage, 175 miles in all. The Mammoth Grove Hotel has been lately enlarged, and can now accommodate one hundred guests. There is a post-office, express and telegraph office at the hotel. It faces the grove, having the greater number of trees to the left, looking from the veranda, and the two sentinels immediately in the front, about two hundred yards to the eastward. The valley in which the hotel is situ- ated contains of the Sequoia trees, ninety-three, not including those of from one to ten years' growth. The sequoia is a representative of a family of trees, related to the cypresses, which has survived from a time more ancient than almost any other family of trees. Its nearest relative is in Japan. The name was given by the botanist, Asa Gray in honor of Sequoyah, the Cherokee chieftain. Besides the S. gigantea, there is still another species, the S. semperuirens, which exists in forests along the seaward side of the Coast Range from San Francisco Bay northward for over 100 miles. It is these forests which furnish the celebrated redwood lumber. Many specimens of the redwood rival their big cousins near Yosemite in size, and the whole forest will average 250 feet in height, where full grown. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST. LONG reach of most interesting country lies between San Francisco and Portland, Oregon. Seven hundred and seventy-two miles in- tervene between the two great cities, and it is our purpose to take the reader with us on this journey. There are two routes by rail, and of course the ocean highway is open to all who wish to go by steamer. The rail routes are east of the Sacramento River to Tehama, and west of the river to the same point, 213 miles from San Francisco, where the two lines form a junction. The route generally taken is that east of the river, and this is the route chosen for our journey. From San Francisco we return on the Overland route (by which we entered the city), as far as Roseville, eighteen miles beyond Sacramento. Here we turn northward, leaving the main line behind us, and are fairly embarked on our journey to the great northwest. Lincoln is a small manufacturing town, where great quantities of pottery and sewer pipe arc made. (Population, 1,100; distance from San Francisco, 11S miles; elevation, 167 feet.) Passing through Ewing and Sheridan, small villages surrounded by grazing lands, we come to Wheatland. Fitly named, it being in the center of a fine wheat region. The town is well built, and has the usual complement of good business houses, churches, schools, etc. (Population, 600; distance from San Francisco, 129 miles; elevation, 90 feet.) The Yuba River. Leaving Wheatland, we are soon crossing the bot- tom lands of what the latest maps call the Bear River, but which "old timers" know as the Yuba, a name which, it seems to us, should by all means be retained. The Yuba here is a vagrant stream, inclined to "spread itself" entirely too much for the convenience and comfort of the farmers; hence, it has been confined within great dykes, which extend as far as the eye can reach up and down the river. The road crosses the bottoms on trestle work. This thriving place is the leading town of north- ern California, the depot for the product of Yuba and Sutter counties, and is situated at the head of navigation on Feather River, and on the right bank of the Yuba. It has a population of 5,000. It is known throughout California as being the neatest built city in the state. Splendid business blocks, fine residences, magnificent gardens, where flowers bloom the year round; best of schools and acad- emies, eight churches, large manufacturing interests, flour mills, finest woolen mill in the state, fruit cannery, iron foundry, etc. The city is lighted by gas 275 MARYSVILLE. Flourishing Commercial City. County-Seat of Yuba County. Population, 5,000. Distance from San Francisco, 142 Miles. Elevation, 66 Feet. 27 6 OVER THE RANGE and electricity. The water supply is considered the best in the state. The trade of Marysville to-day is greater than any town north of Sacramento. It is the trade center for a large country outside of Yuba County. It enjoys the trade of all Yuba and Sutter, and part of Butte, Colusa, Sierra, Placer, and Nevada coun- ties. In addition to excellent natural facilities, steamers and barges ply on the river, carrying freight to and from San Francisco. It is one of the junctional points of the railroad. In climate, Marysville cannot be excelled. No extremes of heat and cold, but a pleasant, equable temperature, equal to, if not the superior of, the climate of Italy. Epidemic diseases of any kind never obtain a footing here; Marysville has been singularly free from such afflictions. With the fast-increasing SIR JOSEPH HOOKER OAK, CHICO VECINO. 29 Feet in Circumference. tide of immigration, which is now turning to California, and with the new and varied industries which are now springing up here, as the producing power of the lands are becoming known, Marysville will, in a short space of time no doubt, be one of the leading towns of California. Frosts are very rare, and when they do occur very little damage to vegetation results, owing to the great dryness of the atmosphere. The same characteristics also make life very enjoyable, and render this section one of the healthiest in the state. At Marysville a profitable side-trip may be taken to Oroville. Oroville is situated on the Feather River, 28 miles from Marysville. It is the northern terminus of the Oroville branch of the Southern Pacific, which runs from Marysville, 28 miles to the north. The town is well built, the business build- ings being of brick, and the residences are almost universally neat and handsome, surrounded with lawns set with a wealth of flowers, palms, and blooming orange- trees. The church and school facilities are all that could be desired There is abundant water-power awaiting the establishment of manufactories, and a flour- ing mill and a large sash and door factory are now in operation. But the glory TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 277 of Ororille is mainly in the region about it. The western part of Butte County, near the Sacramento River, is level; the eastern part includes the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, while the central portion consists of low foothills gradually increasing in altitude as the mountains are ncarcd. This strip of sloping foothills, twenty miles in width, consists of a rich gravelly soil, remarkably pro- ductive. The climate of this region, which Is known as the "Thermal Belt," is of peculiar salubrity, being milder both in winter and summer than in the lower por- tion of the valley, and resembling that of the most favored countries about the Mediterranean Sea. The summer's heat is here tempered to an even mildness, and in the winter the formation of thin ice in the open air is of rare occurrence. Snow is a natural curiosity, and outdoor work is uninterrupted the year round. The average rainfall is about twenty-two inches. Experiment has shown that the conditions of climate and soil make this region the natural home of the orange, olive, lemon, fig, and other semi-tropical fruits, while all the known deciduous fruits, including the hardy apple, flourish and yield in unsurpassed abundance. The country about Oroville is undoubtedly the greatest fruit-producing region in the state, offering great inducements to settlers, while it is equally wealthy in a great variety of other resources. Returning to Marysville, we resume our northward flight, the Sacramento Valley being on our left, while the Valley of the Rio de Los Plumas, or, as it is now popularly called, the Feather River Valley, is on our right. Following this course we pass through Gridley, Biggs, Nelson, Durham, and arrive at The largest town in Butte County, Chico, situ- CHICO. An Ideal Residence City. Population, 4,000. Distance from San Francisco, 186 Miles. Elevation, 193 Feet. ated on Chico Creek, five miles from the Sacra- mento River. Chico is the centre of the finest agri- cultural portion of the county — perhaps the finest in the State. The famous "Rancho Chico" prop- erty of Gen. John Bidwell adjoins the town on the north, the rich and varied fruits of which have at- tracted such marked attention at all fairs and expo- sitions throughout the United States. Chico Creek is a clear and beautiful mountain stream, flowing sufficient water all the year to supply power for General Bidwell's large flour mill, until its capacity was so enlarged as to require the supplemental aid of steam. Steamers run on the Sacramento River to Chico Landing and points above, carry- ing immense quantities of grain to the bay on barges. Chico is a beautiful city, and its population is principally American, agriculture and its adjunct employ- ments being the chief elements of its life. But it has also tributary to it a fine mining region, up Butte Creek, and an immense lumber region to the east and north. In this latter there are five or six large mills at work. A V-flume comes to the city from the mountains, in which the lumber is floated from the mills to the town, so rapidly that a few years ago a beam of timber was sawn in the mill, thirty miles away, flumed to Chico, drawn through the town to the water-works building, fitted for its purpose and wrought into the building, all within the working hours of a single day. Chico has a regular town government, with police officers and an ex- cellent fire department. It has gas and water-works, and is supplied with electric light. There are two banks, i"n flourishing condition. Seven churches, repre- senting as many denominations, adorn the city; a state normal school and large and elegant public school buildings and private academies are filled with students. The streets are wide, well kept, and shaded. Very many private residences are 278 OVER THE RANGE large and handsome, and the homes of the people all indicate intelligence and com- fort. CllicO Vecino. This is an attractive suburb of Chico, included within the boundaries of the well-known "Rancho Chico." There are one thousand acres in the town site, the plat of which has been laid off in five-acre tracts. Here there soon will be one of those delightful fruit-raising colonies for which California is becoming famous. From Chico to Tehama we roll along through a fine fruit and agricultural country, passing the stations of Nord and Vina. Tehama is the junction of the Willows branch of the Southern Pacific- Railroad with the main line. It is situated in a good wheat-growing country on the west bank of the Sacramento River, and here irrigation is not found necessary for the production of crops. The olive does magnificently here, and the sugar- beet bids fair to make a profitable crop. A sugar factory is in contemplation. Stock-raising and lumbering are large tributary industries. (Population, 700; distance from San Francisco, 213 miles; elevation, 222 feet.) Seven miles beyond Tehama we pass through Rawson, and five miles farther on reach Red Bluff, the county-seat of Tehama County, which is one of the most thriving towns of the state, with a population of 3,000. It is a growing town in one of the richest sections, and it has an elevated and sightly location. Its streets are wide and well graded, lighted by electricity, and there is no place in the United States better drained. The Sacramento River here is a clear, rapid stream, lined with beautiful trees and vines. On all the three other sides there are ravines or valleys through which streams run, which give the perfec- tion of drainage. Its public and business buildings are fine architectural structures, and its private residences are nowhere excelled for taste, elegance and the beauty and the wealth of their floral surroundings. The streets are lined with poplar, elm, white maple, locust, acacia and pepper trees, which will soon make a veritable forest city. There are also many fine residences. Te- hama County is the great grain-growing county of the state, 8,000,000 bushels of wheat and 2,500,000 bushels of barley have been harvested in one season from its fertile lands. Tehama has about 400,000 sheep, which produce 2,500,000 pounds of wool annually. The numbers of cattle, horses, mules, and swine are large. In this county the celebrated Vina Ranch is located, embracing 56,000 acres, a princeh property, which, through the unexampled generosity of Senatoi and Mrs. Stanford, has become the heritage of the children and of the coming generations of the Pacific coast. (Population, 3,000; distance from San Francisco, 225 miles; elevation, 307 feet.) The grade is now steadily upward, as we press onward in our journey. From Red Bluff to Sissons, a distance of 113 miles, we make an ascent of 3,245 feet. Through a broken country, and crossing a number of rapidly flowing creeks, we pass through Cottonwood, and arrive at AndeTSOn, which is a beautiful and very lively town of 1,000 inhabitants. It lies a mile and a half from the Sacramento River, 12 miles south of Redding, and 222 miles north of Sacramento. The town is attractively laid out, with wide, well-shaded streets, lined with cozy and beautiful homes. The leading hotel in the place is a fine one, costing $20,000. There are fine schools, the usual churches, a fine roller flouring mill, good, substantial brick business buildings, water-works, furnishing an abundant supply of pure water from the mountains, besides many other evidences of enterprise and progress. The semi-tropical climate of the Sac- 2 So OVER THE RANGE ramcnto Valley generally prevails in the region about Anderson, which is noted for its healthfulness. The summers are rather warm, though dry, and the mercury rarely reaches 105 degrees, 85 degrees being about the average. The winter, or rainy season, is delightful, and resembles April or May in the Eastern states. (Pop- ulation, 1,000; distance from San Francisco, 248 miles; elevation, 432 feet.) Redding". No town of northern California has a more promising future, and exhibits at the present time more enterprise, activity, and rapidity of growth than Redding, in the southwestern part of Shasta County, of which it is the county- seat. It is at the upper end of the great Sacramento Valley, 230 miles north of Sacramento, and is built on a plateau on the bank of the Sacramento River, here a clear mountain stream which sweeps around the town to the east and south. No town in the state has a more charming and picturesque location. The brief history of Redding is one of rapid progress, and never has it been more marked than now. Its population has increased from 500, in 1883, to over 3,000 at the present time, and with the rapid development of the county and the vast territory that is tributary to Redding, extending, in some directions, a hundred and fifty miles, a rapid and con- tinued growth is assured. The city has water and gas works, a great variety of manufactories, many important buildings, a fine court-house and jail, two news- papers, good schools, and several churches. The river here affords fine water- power, and the lumber interests of the country tributary to Redding are immense. The future of this lively place depends largely on the development of the country about it; and with the great variety of soil, climate, and products, the thousands of acres of cheap, unoccupied lands that only await intelligent cultivation to yield great profits, and with the other almost inexhaustible resources which the country possesses, there can be no question on this point. During the past few years the country has made rapid strides, many settlers have invested, building has amounted almost to a boom, new industries started, and thousands of acres of orchards and vineyards have been planted. No part of California offers such inducements to the farmer, the laboring man, the capitalist, or the home-seeker as Shasta County. There is a delightful semi-tropical climate in the valleys and plateaus of the south, and a gradual change is noted as higher altitudes are reached, that of the moun- tains resembling the New England states. The climate of the southern portion of the county is indicated by the fact that orange-trees nourish and bear abund- antly. The county is noted for the number and beauty of its clear, sparkling streams, which burst from the mountains through wild, picturesque canons, and flow onward through small, fertile valleys of great beauty. In these mountain streams the finest trout fishing in the state is found. (Population, 3,000; distance from San Francisco, 260 miles; elevation, 551 feet.) Keswick. This is a new town of about 2,000 people, brought into existence by the smelting industry. A large plant is erected here, owned by the Mountain Copper Company. The modern methods of treating ore make this the base metal era, and smelters are coining money. This stimulates quartz-mining, for the smel- ter must have a certain amount of ore for a flux. Three large smelting plants are at work in this vicinity, and towns are building, population growing, and markets active. Trinity County, like Shasta, has a vast territory heavily mineralized, while the former has also extensive gravel deposits. The largest hydraulic mining property in the world, perhaps, is opening now, and water is being piped over twenty miles of almost inaccessible country. An immense sum was paid for the acres of golden gravel. Many cozy little homes arc scattered through the mountains. The farmer, TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 2S1 with a few acres of fruit and a little field for grain or pasturage, is often a miner also working a small claim at intervals. One such, three or four years ago, struck a pocket, taking out about $33,000 in a single day. That is one of the possibilities which make mining so fascinating. THE SHASTA REGION. Tilt' (anon. We return from prospecting in the hills and resume our journey. We are now in the canon of the Sacramento, creeping along the breast of cliffs, and through tunnels, and crossing and recrossing the river, amid scenes of great beauty and sublimity. From Redding, the great white cone of Shasta was seen, seeming to rise out of a forested horizon, and as we go upward, it gleams upon the sight again and again, a thing of beauty and of majesty. Its glory is best seen at a distance an from below. Then its dark lavas are suffused with a pale rosy glow, its white summit outlined softly against the sky, and the wide, placid sweep of its base is full of repose. Here the eastern wall beside us is broken by a rugged canon, and the McCloud River comes pouring its cold flood into the Sacramento. Back among the hills it first joins the Pitt River, and the two streams, swollen by many mountain springs, add their volume to the Sacramento. All the region watered by the streams is wild and virgin. It is a district full of fine forest trees, with many deer in the depths of the woods, and trout in the icy waters of the streams. The Pitt River cuts its way from the volcanic regions of the northeast, across a billowy sea of hills, and falls toward the west in a series of white rapids. The McCloud has the ice chill of Mt. Shasta upon it, and has worn its way through lava rocks, and tumbled down steep gorges, to lose itself in the larger stream that rolls down to the bay. The Sacramento is muddy and sluggish far down the valley, but here is dear and bright and turbulent, rushing and foaming among the rocks, a very ideal trout stream, and a line of light in the landscape. Sims. This was a sportsmen's hotel in the days when only the Oregon stage woke the echoes among the hills. It stands back from the station among orchards of apples and other fruits, on a fine plateau, in the most rugged portion of the Sacramento canon. Trout, game in its season, fruit and berries fresh from the fields, milk and butter from their own cows, and an old-time hospitalitv make this a restful place. Sweet Brier, Crag 1 View, Bailey's. These arc camping-places and hotels, close together, in a very attractive part of the canon. The fine views, the delightful climate, the pure water, the numberless excursions into the hills, the wild flowers, the luxuriant ferns, the bathing and fishing, make these resorts vcrv popular in this season. Castle Crag'. The fine hotel here was burned down and has not been rebuilt, but the crags remain one of the most striking rock piles of any countrv. The buttresses of this giant structure reach down to the bottom of the canon, and the columns and minarets of gray, steely granite, lifted high against the sky, are very impressive. They reach an altitude of four thousand feet, and easily and naturally suggest the towers and minarets of some lofty and impregnable castle of the Middle Ages. Back of these splintered peaks, at an elevation of nearly seven thousand feet, lies Castle Lake, a lonely bit of crystal water, resting in its granite cup, over whose Up the wild azalea droops, and in whose depths the silvery trout Boats like a shadow. The lake is accessible from this point by a steep trail, or farther up by horseback. 282 OVER THE RANGE Upper Soda Spring's. Numerous fine soda springs are found in tne canon, and this is one of the most noted. It is an old and homelike place, in one of the wildest and most picturesque parts of the canon. Shasta is but fifteen miles away, 'the fine coniferous forests, full of splendid sugar-pine, spruce, and cedar, and here and there, on sloping mountain sides or on top of dividing ridges, lie lovely meadows the wild gardens of the deer, lush with grass and starred with flowers. Nothing is finer; and you cannot cross one of these forest-hidden gardens without finding, perhaps still warm, the couch of the red deer, or, flaming in the sunlight, the brown and orange spotted tiger-lily, or a bed of blue and white violets and daisies. The water of the Soda Springs is cold and palatable, and for certain diseases very bene- ficial. The fish commissioners keep the river stocked with salmon and trout, and game can be found deep in the solitude of the hills. Shasta Springs. This mineral spring is but a few steps from the track of the Southern Pacific, and is a regular stopping-place for all trains. Everybody "drinks" here, and many fill bottles or demijohns for later refreshment. The water is bottled here for a wide market. On a fine plateau above the springs are cottages, and many come here for rest and the benefits hoped for from the water. Shasta Retreat. This is a camping spot, grouped about a magnificent spring, pouring out a great volume of icy water. Several fine mineral springs are also on the grounds, and Shasta is in full view. Plants and flowers grow in great profusion, and the air is full of the balsam of pine and spruce and fir. The retreat is under church control, and has a tabernacle for public services. The Chautauqua assembly is one of the summer attractions. There is a tavern with airy rooms, and comfortable cottages. 3Iott. Here a fine view of Shasta is obtained, and this is the visual center for all the region. The lover of the grand and beautiful will look up to it at noonday, pale and shadowy against the sky; will linger at evening to see the great lava cone glow with light, when the canon is dark with the gathering gloom of night; and will ever, "turn out" to see its dark head outlined at dawn amid the fading stars, or strongly set upon the arch of rose which heralds the coming sun. Turning the glance back over the route we have traveled, the slopes of the great canon are seen, and the outlying cliffs of Castle Crags, while to the west, Scott Moun- tain looms up in majesty. Sissoil. The rambling, picturesque, and homelike hotel long known as "Sis- sons" has disappeared. It had its day, and many a sojourner at the old, romantic- inn thinks of it with a sigh of regret. The fame of the place was widespread, and the old homestead was enlarged, and patched, and added to from year to year until it had a character of its own, and was as original in appearance as it was homelike in the experience of its guests. Strawberry Valley, full of willows and brush, became a meadow, with a background of dark velvety pines, and above that belt of green rose the white, triple cone of the great mountain. It was worth ten years of common life to sit on the veranda at Sisson and look out over that peaceful mountain meadow and up the shining slope of that "Burned-out crater, healed with snow," and watch the play of light on granite crag or lava flow, or to sit in the sunlight of Julv and see a snow-storm raging about the mountain summit, and rain falling in the valley at its feet. The railroad is here now, a bustling town is in the valley, and a hundred things have changed. But the new "Sissons" is attractive if it is modern, the old-time SHASTA. The Monarch of the Range. Altitude, 14,440 Feet Above the Sea. Local Elevation, 10,885 Feet. 284 OVER THE RANGE hospitality is there, and the mountain is unchanged. A delightful summer resort it often has weeks of excellent sleighing, and then the tavern is alive with guests from the city to whom the snow and the sleigh-ride is a novelty. As we near Sisson, Mount Shasta, of which we have obtained brief glimpses through the pines, bursts into full view in all its sublime magnificence. This noted snow-capped peak towers to the height of 14,440 feet. It is an extinct volcano, and its snows and glaciers feed hundreds of streams which thread the wild region in every direction. At Sisson is obtained the finest view of Shasta, and it is the only convenient point from which the ascent can be made. But few parties succeed in reaching the summit, and the attempt is only made in midsummer, and then with trusty guides. The feat is exciting, but the view is grand beyond description. The region about Shasta is a paradise for the sportsman and the lover of nature. Grizzly, black, and cinnamon bears abound, elk, deer, and mountain sheep are plenty, as well as a great variety of smaller game. The mountain streams teem with trout, and often the sport loses its zest through the very abundance of the beauties. The McCloud and the Pitt Rivers are the most noted streams, though others are equally attractive. The McCloud runs through the most uninhabited and unexplored region on the coast. No region in the state is so delightful for camping, and hundreds of parties go there every year. At Sisson, camping and hunting parties can be provided with complete outfits at moderate cost. From Redding northward the Southern Pacific road is the scenic route of California; and at the base of Mount Shasta, eighty miles north of Redding, the acme of interest is reached. While there are many places in California replete with beauty and grandeur, there are none which, for infinite variety of scenery, wild- ness, and abundance of everything to delight the sportsman, artists and tourist, can compare with the region about Shasta. JVIllir's Peak. After leaving Sisson we circle the base of Muir's Peak, locally known as "Black Butte," which rises to a perpendicular height of three thousand feet above our heads. It is black, bare, and desolate — an extinct volcano, with half a dozen craters in plain view. Upton. Here we diverge a little, taking the short line called the "McCloud River Railroad." It is chiefly a lumber line, penetrating the rich forest region to the east. Of old time we went from Sissons to the Big Bend in a stage-coach, twenty- five miles of delightful ride. Now we take this odd "switch back" railway and climb the grades and round the hills, until we reach McCIouds, where are noisy mills and logging trains and mountain homes. The river, a few miles beyond, is a cjuiet stream, its source not far away in the green meadows at the foot of Shasta on the east. Its mother is Mt. Shasta, and it wells up out of the earth, icy cold. It grows rapidly, a hundred rills and springs adding to its volume, so that a dozen miles shows a broad tumultuous river, dark in the shadows of the great trees, and gathering strength with every mile. It has immense attractions for the nature- lover and the sportsman. The noblest trout of all the tribe, the "Dolly Varden," lurks in this dark green water, wary and full of vigor. Deer and bear are in the wilder regions, where the mill men have not penetrated, and mountain lions are not seldom seen. Fine views of Shasta are obtained as one climbs along the trails. The region is full of splendid timber, the finest sugar-pine forests of the state, or of TO THE GOLDEN GATE. *5 any state, being found in the MrCIoud Basin. Going northward again, toward Oregon, we note the lessening forest growth until we reach EdgeWOOd. The name is suggestive. It is literally the edge of the forest. Thereafter, climbing to the Siskiyou summit, a distance of twenty-live miles, there is very little timber. The country is broken and rolling, with farms here and there, and extensive cattle ranges. Montague. This is forty miles north of Sisson and is the junction point of the Yreka Railroad, running to the town of the same name, the county-seat of Siskiyou County. It is a town of considerable importance. Mining, lumbering MOSSBRAE FALLS, MT. SHASTA COUNTRY. and cattle raising are the chief industries. Farms are in the small valleys, and the whole country is prosperous. Ag"er. From this point a stage line runs to Klamath Hot Springs, eighteen miles distant, and near the border line between California and Oregon. It is one of the most attractive mineral spring resorts in the state, partly because of the excellence of its waters, and partly because of its beautiful scenery and the charm of the trout stream at its doors. The Klamath is a dashing mountain stream, alive with trout. The elevation is about two thousand seven hundred feet, and the tempera- ture never high. Salmon, silver and rainbow trout can be found within sight of the hotel. The Siskiyou Mountains run over into Oregon. From their summit we look down into the faraway Rogue River Valley, one of the finest of Oregon's many fine 286 OVER THE RANGE /alleys. Going on a little, we cross the head waters of the Klamath River, rolling westward to the Pacific, and at Cole's we leave California, and the next stop is Oregon. THE WEST SIDE. Before leaving California it will be of interest to enter here a brief description of the West Side Line extending between Woodland and Tehama, and by which line the tourist may travel if he so desire. Leaving Tehama for the south the first station is Filiello. This town, on the north side of Thomas Creek, is a small business center for a grain-growing district. It is on the edge of the old-time regime in farm- ing methods. Ricllfi*'J(l. Thi3 is a colony center, separated from Finello by Thomas Creek, and not more than two miles distant. It marks the transition to a more stable form of agricultural life, and settles up the country. Children born belong to the land; school-houses are builded, and communities formed, and an independent citizenship takes the place of renters and employees, whose only interest in the country is what they can get out of it. Coming'. This is an old-time town of about eleven hundred people, quite surrounded by the colonies which have been planted in the wheat-fields, and have transformed the face of the country. Conservative ranchers stick to cattle and grain. One sold off part of his holding to the colony managers for twenty-five dollars per acie, and when he saw what could be done with the land bought a good share of it back at seventy-two dollars per acre. Many are in the ruts of habit and method, and do not see the possibilities of development until it is actually demonstrated before their eyes; they stay by the forms of industry which they know. May "wood Colony. This is a striking example of what this region and a hun- dred like it are capable of, and what courage, confidence, foresight, and intelligent energy will do. In 1890 this was a wheat-field. At first four thousand acres were subdivided; but additions were quickly made. As fast as one tract was settled uf another was thrown open, and settlers soon found to occupy it, until the original four thousand acres had expanded to twenty-seven thousand. To-day Maywooc Colony is a prosperous, contented, industrious, and successful aggregation of home- builders. A plot of the central group of colonies shows the town of Corning com- pletely invested with orchards and farms, nearly every lot being sold and occupied. There are hundreds of comfortable homes, fine business blocks, well-equipped hotels, schools, churches, an opera house, and all the evidences of a progressive and successful enterprise. Oranges do as well as anywhere; olives are profitable as pickles, or converted into oil, peaches, pears, apricots, vegetables, grain, poultry, melons, sugar-beets — everything goes. A huge fir-tree, five feet in diameter, and a black walnut, eighty feet high, hint the wide range of tree growth. Peas and tomatoes are produced by the ton, the cannery taking all that can be grown. A herd of one thousand to one thousand five hundred turkeys is not an uncommon sight in the region. The Colony district ten years ago had but about one hundred people, exclusive of Corning. It now numbers two thousand, and with the old town fully one thou- sand more. The new-comers are Eastern people, who had but little capital and no knowledge of farming and fruit-raising, as practiced here. Competent California 2&5 OVER THE RANGE farmers guided the first efforts, and no difficulty or hardship has been experienced in "getting started." Back of all has been a wise management, a liberal and enlightened policy. Then soil and climate. The growth can be duplicated on hundreds of thousands of acres in this rich valley. It requires only the initiative fair treatment, intelligence, and wide advertising. Multitudes only want to know the facts about California. There are hundreds of chances here to one in the older communities, and no unequal contest with nature, with cold and frost and storm. Kirkwood. Outside of the limits of the colony just left, we dip into the con- servatism of farm life again. This is a market town for a district given to grain- growing, to livestock, and a little fruit. But the object-lessons in many localities are breaking into the old cultural habits, and new life and growth begin to appear. Orlailtl. This is Glenn County — a few years ago a vast wheat-field. But change is in the air — transition to new methods. Orland is growing, and the region roundabout filling up, and a diversity of the products of the land gives the tiller of the soil an immense advantage. He has always something to turn off. Here is alfalfa, and butter, and honey, melons, oranges, lemons, all kinds of deciduous fruit, and all kinds of vegetables. Olives and almonds flourish. One tract of sixty-six acres set to almonds returned, in 1901, nineteen tons, which sold for eleven cents a pound; net result about thirty-five hundred dollars. Oranges and lemons are being planted. The Lemon Home Colony is two miles out from Orland, with good land, well watered. It is monotonous to repeat that citrus fruits will do well at a hundred points hitherto untried. We are trying to tell the truth about a vast region. It is nature's fruit realm. It has millions of acres as well adapted to oranges and lemons as Sicily, Malta, the Grecian Archipelago, the south of France, or the best section of Spain. The soil and the climate here insure the success of oranges, lemons, olives, apricots, peaches, prunes, and almonds. But increasing attention is being given to water and to alfalfa, as in many other places. The town is grow- ing. You may see here a single acre which for twenty years has supported the owner and his wife in comfort. Land is not high, it is cheap. As in many places, it is men that are wanted — men who can plow a straight furrow, who know good land when they see it, and who have something to sell every time they go to town. Land is plenty, and men with intelligence and energy can make a fresh start anywhere in this valley with half the effort their fathers put forth to clear the forests or break the soil of the Middle West. Germaiitowil. The business center again of a wide area devoted to grain and stock. Land can be bought for from twenty to sixty-five dollars, land under cultivation, but without improvements. It is a good region. Willows. This little city has a population of about sixteen hundred, and is full of life. The tributary country is rich in grain and fruit. Willows is the junc- tion point of a branch line that traverses a productive region as far as Fruto. This euphonious name indicates the prevailing industry. Yet stock-raising, dairying, and general farming is in vogue. One man grows ten acres of tomatoes, netting him from seven hundred to a thousand dollars a year. Another raises barley, alfalfa, and potatoes, and from thirty-seven acres netted, in 1901, two thousand six hundred dollars. River bottom-land set to peaches returned one hundred and twenty dollars per acre from a large tract. Norman. Another market-place and shipping-point for grain and stock. The western foothills furnish good pasture, and in the rougher brush lands the Angora is profitable. From a flock of five hundred, one owner sheared two thousand five TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 2S9 hundred pounds mohair, selling for thirty cents a pound. His flock was increased by four hundred kids. There is a growing market for the long silky fleei e. Maxwell. We are still in the midst of wheat-fields, wide, flat reaches of country. Diversified farming is growing in favor, and the monotony of yellow grain- fields will soon disappear. Hogs are seen in the fields, and other stock, and more attention will be given cows and the dairy. The character of the soil will reveal itself at a glance. The mountains on the west side are full of delightful camping-places, and some of the most famous mineral springs are easily reached. Deer and bear are plenty, and foxes, coyotes and panthers are readily found. On the east the Sacramento River offers good fishing, and ducks and geese in their season. Colusa Junction. This is the connecting point with the "Colusa and Lake Railroad." It runs east to Colusa and northwest to Sites, and from the latter by stage to Bartlett Springs and other Clear Lake points; Sites is a small foothill town. The foothills of both mountain ranges, the Sierra and the Coast, have many fine and fertile little valleys, and the climate is always exceptionally fine. Where water can be had they make ideal places for fruit. Along the Coast foothills, water can usually be had by digging wells. Colusa is a town of nearly two thousand people — with its extensions, two thou- sand two hundred. Electric power has been brought in, and is available for pump- ing for irrigation, and for other mechanical purposes. A great body of magnificent alluvial land is here, that will grow anything, with plenty of water for purposes of irrigation. Lands are being cut up into small farms, and fruit-growing will sup- plant wheat farms. Oil is found of a superior quality, and may prove very pro- ductive. The lands along the river are protected by levees, and the river itself is made to serve for winter irrigation. Bartlett Springs, which is not far from here, is very celebrated, and much resorted to for the cure of certain diseases. Other springs in the county are used as summer resorts, and for the healing virtue of their waters. The Colusa stone quarries are drawn upon from all parts of the state. The fine quality of the stone shows in the new Ferry Building at San Fran- cisco, and in the band-stand at Golden Gate Park. Considerable land is for sale here at fair prices. Williams. The population is about twelve hundred, and the town is in the midst of vast grain-fields. The increased value of stock is being recognized, and this industry, with fruit-farming, and greater diversity of farm products, is growing. Arblickle. The whole region is devoted to grain and stock. The town serves as a shipping-point, and for market purposes and social life. DlUllligail. When some pastoral bard arises — some modern Virgil, surveying these boundless wheat plains, will he find poetry in the scene ? There are figures for the census, but not much to inspire the poet. The barns are not ideally colored, like Eastman Johnson's, and where there are any at all, they are not "as wide as a Dutchman's barn," the monotony of endlessly pleasant weather dispensing with the necessity for barns in most cases. The country tributary to Dunnigan produces grain — and a great deal of it. Yolo. Poetry is still immolated here under the wheels of giant combined reap- ing and threshing machines, or buried by the gang plow. It is a vast industry, but too easy for profit in these competitive days. A brief period of plowing and sowing another of harvesting, and then the employees drift away to the towns or cities, and the rancher waits for next year. Meantime, California imports a hundred things 290 OVER THE RANGE she consumes, and ought to produce at home. Pork, condensed milk, preserves jellies, jams, poultry, eggs, sugar — all ought to be provided in this opulent state. Woodland, the next station, we saw on our way north. OREGON AND THE SISKIYOU. Tlie State Lille. Resuming the northward journey, two miles beyond Coles station we cross the state line, and entering Oregon, begin the ascent of the Siskiyou Mountains. This ascent is a wonder of railway engineering. The statistical facts concerning this achievement may be condensed as follows: Elevation at State Line 2 $59 feet Coles Springs 3>775 " Tunnel No. 13 3, 108 " Tunnel No. 15 $>1 10 " Tunnel No. 16 2,977 " Length of Tunnel No. 13 4,160 " The mathematician has the advantage here. He can tell exactly the facts concern- ing this great work; but the descriptive writer strives in vain to convey to the reader the beauty and grandeur of the scene. The southern slope of the range is denuded of trees, while the northern side is covered with a dense growth of pine. Siskiyou Station. This is the summit of the range, and the highest point on the entire line, being 4,135 feet above the level of the sea. The mountain view from this coign of vantage is indescribably magnificent. To the east is the Cascade Range, extending to the north for full four hundred miles; to the northeast is Mount Pitt, while still farther on are Mounts Scott, Threlson, and Diamond Peak — mon- archs of the Cascades. To the west are the peaks of the Siskiyou and Coast ranges; to the south are the two Sisters, Mount Lassen, and above all imperial Shasta rears his head. Lakes, rivers, and valleys lie spread out before us like a map; and in a word, for variety, grandeur, beauty, and extent, this view has no equal on the con- tinent. Aslllaild. At the foot of the Siskiyou Range, on the eastern slope, is situated this beautiful little town, in a delightful valley. The town was established in 1850; and in 1887, on December 17th Mr. Charles Crocker, of San Francisco, drove the last spike which completed the railroad connection between California and Oregon. The town of Ashland has entered upon a season of great prosperity, being the seat of the State Normal School, and having the White Sulphur Springs within near proximity. It is a large shipping-point for wheat, and also for fruit. (Population, 3.000; distance from San Francisco, 431 miles; elevation, 1,891 feet.) Rolling along through the valley we pass Phcenix and Medford, prosperous towns of moderate size. Jacksonville is the county-seat of Jackson County, and is connected with Medford, four miles distant, by stage. (Population, 1,000; distance from San Francisco, 450 miles; elevation, 1,399 feet.) Rogue River Valley. We are now in the Rogue River Valley, and are following the stream in its downward course. The valley averages about three miles in width, with high hills on each side, covered with a strong growth of grass, and in places heavily timbered. The products of this valley are berries, nuts, and fruit. Fishing and hunting can be found here of the best quality. The stations "•V I I 1 1 WmtSkmi'^iiL 1/ lllfflfr ll \ V ?/?.; I \ -im . ] ?Bk' * ' | ? ? ? i SCENIC ATTRACTIONS. A Panorama of the Grand and Beautiful in Nature. 292 OVER THE RANGE which follow Medford are: Gold Hill, Grant's Pass, Merlin, Leland, Wolf Creek, Glendale, West Fork, Riddle, Myrtle Creek, and Dillard. For a stretch of over one hundred and fifty miles from Grant's Pass, the country presents a wonder- ful panorama of grand and beautiful scenery. Mountains are all around us. To the right the Cascade Range, to the left the Coast Range. Gorges before us! Canons behind us! Little valleys of entrancing loveliness are crossed; sparkling streams abound; forests of oaks and pines, of hemlocks and madrones, are threaded; in a word, the variety is infinite, the beauty indescribable. Roseburg' is the county-seat of Douglas County. Through the town flow the Umpqua River and Deer Creek, which furnish water-power and a plentiful supply of pure water for domestic purposes. Agriculture, horticulture, and pastoral industries are tributary. (Population, 2,000; distance from San Francisco, 574 miles; elevation, 487 feet.) The Valley Of the Umpqua. This valley, situated between the Coast Range of mountains and the Calapooias, is exceedingly fertile, being especially adapted to agriculture and the growing of fruit. The valley ranks third in size among those of Oregon, those of the Willamette, and Umatilla being greater in area. A historical interest attaches itself to the Umpqua Valley, for in its quiet confines lie the remains of the brave soldier and public-spirited citizen General Joseph Lane. His grave is in a little churchyard, a mile from Roseburg. After leaving Roseburg, the stations occur in the following order: Wilbur, Oakland, Rice Hill, Youcalla, Drains, and Comstocks. Divide is on the water-shed between the waters of the Umpqua and Willa- mette Rivers. Latham, Cottage Grove, Walkers, Creswell, Goshen, and Springfield are the succeeding stations. Eugene is the county-seat of Lane County, situated on the right bank of the Willamette River, and is a thriving, prosperous town. Here has been estab- lished the University of Oregon, which is one of the leading educational institutions of the state. The Willamette is navigable from Portland to this point for steamers of light draught; but freight traffic is now carried mainly by the railroad. This is a fine agricultural and fruit country, and shipments of these products from Eugene are large. (Population, 4,000; distance from San Francisco, 649 miles; eleva- tion, 455 feet.) Beyond Eugene are Irving, Junction City, Harrisburg, Muddy, Halsey, Shedds, Tangent, and Albany Junction. Albany, the county-seat of Linn County, is an enterprising, growing town. For a country which Eastern people consider so "new," this town has great "an- tiquity," having been established in 1848. Here is located the Albany College and other schools of excellent quality. The town has good business and private build- ings, water-works — in fact, all of the modern improvements. (Population, 5,000; distance from San Francisco, 692 miles; elevation, 240 feet.) Millersburg, Jefferson, Marion, and Turner are the stations passed after leaving Albany before Salem is reached. Salem is the state capital and the county-seat of Marion County. It is situated on the left bank of the Willamette River, which furnishes unlimited water- power. Here are located the state institutions, including the Insane Asylum, the TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 293 School for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, the Penitentiary and the Indian Training School. Steamers ply regularly between Portland and Salem, and the amount of lumber shipped annually exceeds three million feet. The capitol building occupies an entire block, and may be seen from the car window, to our left, after leaving the depot. It need not be said that Salem is a well-built, prosperous city, for the fact that it is the state capital makes such a statement superfluous. (Population, 6,000; dis- tance from San Francisco, 720 miles; elevation, 100 feel . ) After we have left Salem we pass the state fair grounds, two miles from the city, and four miles farther on Chemawa is reached, which is the immediate site of the Indian Training School. Beyond are the stations of Brooks, Woodburn, Hub- bard, Aurora, Barlow, Canby, New Era, and Canemah. Oregon City is the county-seat of Clackamas County, and is noted for its magnificent water-power, being located at the great falls of the Willamette River. Here were constructed the canal and lock system which make the Willamette navi- gable beyond the falls. This system cost half a million dollars. Oregon City is a thriving town, boasting all the modern improvements, and doing a large business. (Population, 4,000; distance from San Francisco, 756 miles; elevation, 95 feet.) Beyond Oregon City we pass through the following stations: Clackamas, Mil- waukee, Willsburg, Car Shops, and East Portland. These are really suburbs of Portland, as the distance between Oregon City and Portland is only 15 miles. This metropolitan city, with its population of one hundred thousand souls, sits on the west bank of the Willamette River, twelve miles from its conflu- ence with the Columbia, and one hundred and fifteen miles, by river, from the Pacific Ocean. The first settlers came here in 1843, and in 185 1 the settle- ment was incorporated as a city. It is now the metropolis of the Pacific Northwest, and the third richest city in the world, in proportion of the wealth to per capita of population. On the east side of the Willamette, directly opposite Portland, is the city of East Portland, and on the same side, to the northward, around the bend of the river, the city of Albina, both of which contain a population of about ten thousand souls, and are connected with Portland by two bridges. Numerous ferry-boats also ply on the river between Portland and her trans-Willamette suburbs. Thus, there are clustered here under three corporate names, a community of one hundred and ten thousand people, whose business intermingles, and who are actively engaged in its diversified indus- tries. The favorable position which Portland occupies for an important commercial city, can be best understood by gaining a knowledge of its location, relative to a large area of very rich country. The Willamette Valley, at the foot of which Port- land is situated, contains four million acres of land, and its products are abundant to furnish sustenance for over a million people. Most of this territory is now under cultivation. Wheat has been the chief crop raised, but other cereals, root crops, and fruits are now occupying the attention of the farmers, and on the slopes of the mountains that border the valley, stock-raising and dairying arc found to be profit- able industries. The finest flavored fruits in the world are raised here — apples, pears, prunes, peaches, plums, small fruits, melons, etc. In fact, all the products of the temperate zones can be successfully grown in the Willamette Valley. The surplus product of this fertile valley, of course, flows through Portland, to which PORTLAND. The Metropolis of the Pacific Northwest. A City of Magnificent Achievements and High Hopes. 294 OVER THE RANGE port it is transported by boats which ply on the Willamette, and railroads which penetrate the country on each side of the river. The Columbia River, before pierc- ing the Cascade Mountains, flows through and drains a tract of country more than four times as large as the state of New York, and with a soil of wonderful productiveness. The improve- ment of that vast region is scarcely begun, yet the pro- duct has already grown be- yond the facilities for moving it, though they are great, and beyond all expectations. But the transportation facil- ities are increasing rapidly, and that trouble will not last. Anything that can be grown on fertile soil in a mild climate is produced in this basin in abundance, and from Idaho, Washington Ter- ritory, and Oregon a constant stream flows to Portland. The mines of Oregon, in- cluding those of gold, silver, iron, copper, etc., and the vast mineral output of Montana, Idaho, and Washington con- w tribute an important amount to q the business of this commercial ^ metropolis. The timber pro- q duct is by no means inconsider- and form- ing a picturesque background to the valley; and on the east and west are the forest- covered foot-hills of the Cascades. Nowhere else in the entire world is there a simi- lar-sized section where Nature has provided such an abundance of unparalleled mountain scenery as in the Pacific Northwest. Three general ranges, linked by numerous cross-spurs, traverse it in a north and south direction — the Coast ten to twenty miles from the ocean, having an extreme altitude of of 4,000 feet; the Cascades, one hundred to one hun- dred and fifty miles inward, ranging in height from 6,000 to 12,000 feet, and the Blue Mountains, in Eastern Oregon and Washington, from 3,000 to 10,000 feet. But the trip of all mountain trips in this matchless scenic wonderland of the Pacific Northwest, is to the snow-capped summit of one of the mighty and silent sentinels which tower high above the lesser peaks. Mount Adams, Mount Saint Helen, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Rainier, perpetually crowned with snow, stand forth in wondrous fascination. But more beautiful and impressive than all combined is Mount Hood, the pride of the mountain climbers and tourists. Fifty miles east of Portland by air-line and ninety-three by shortest route, this favor- ite proudly rears its head 11,225 ^ eet heavenward, thousands of feet above every MOUNT HOOD. Cloud Cap Inn. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 325 neighboring object. It is one of the most notable peaks in the West, serving as a guide-post to Lewis and Clark on their memorable trip of exploration to the coast in 1805-6, and later to the pioneers who passed over the latent gold ledges of the rich Sumpter district, glanced at the beautiful valleys, climbed the mountains through forests of pine and fir, slept on the bunch-grass plains — Oregon's future grain fields — and with one eye on Mount Hood, hastened on to Western Oregon. Easily accessible, hundreds climb to its summit every summer. The trip is delightful in every particular, those who have once experienced it always being eager to repeat the pleasure. From Mount Hood Station conveyance is taken for a coaching trip to Cloud Cap Inn, which stands on the northeastern slope of the mountain, at an elevation of 6,800 feet. Up through the pretty and prosperous town the coach starts on its twenty-seven mile spin, the road leading past scores of well-kept apple and straw- berry farms, for which the valley is noted, the unique and picturesque cabin, sur- rounded by smaller ones, being reached in time for supper. Comfortably furn- ished, with pine logs blazing in the huge fireplaces, and with a table supplied with everything that a hungry visitor could wish, the place is most inviting. From Cloud Cap Inn the summit of Mount Hood seems but a step away, but in fact the distance to its top is four miles. A three minutes walk from the Inn brings the mountain climber to Eliot Glacier, on the northeast slope of the moun- tain, a mile long by a third of a mile wide. From its base the stream of Hood River has its source. Coe Glacier lies on the north slope of the mountain, Sandy Glacier on the southwest, Zigzag Glacier, west of south, White River Glacier, east of south, Newton Clark Glacier, southeast, and one vast unnamed icefield southwest of the Ladd Glacier. For three miles, from the Inn to the top of Cooper's Spur, the way leads over ground devoid of snow, then for a mile snow and ice are encountered. The rope line begins about 900 feet from the summit, and for a fourth of this distance alpen- stock and pluck are also needed, but the top once reached, the plucky climber is well repaid for the effort. To the north, sixty miles, is Mount Adams, 12,470 feet high; on Puget Sound, one hundred and fifty miles away, is Mount Rainier, 14,440 feet; and to the west is Mount Saint Helen, 9,750 feet. For miles and miles the mighty Columbia is seen winding its way through the great section, while in every direction, as far as eye can see, stretch bounteous fields of grain and fertile valleys. Those who do not care to scale the summit of the mountain have ample oppor- tunity to hunt and fish, the forests in the vicinity of Cloud Cap Inn abounding with deer, bear, cougars, grouse, quail, and other game, while the streams are tilled with speckled beauties. VientO, Oregon. An important lumber manufacturing point, surrounded by fine timber. Good fishing and hunting. United States fish hatchery just across the Columbia River opposite the station. Cascade Locks, Oregon. Where the United States Government has expended over four million dollars in constructing a canal around the falls of the Columbia River. Forty-five miles east of Portland. Population, 375. Two churches, a public school, a sawmill, fish wheels and extensive salmon fisheries. Amid the grand scenery of the Cascade Mountains and Columbia River Gorge. Fine trout stream. Charming summer resort. Bonneville, Oregon. Forty-one miles east of Portland. Beautiful pic- nic and camping grounds, splendid scenery, streams alive with trout. A day spent 326 OVER THE RANGE here at the foot of the Cascades, with rich trout streams on every hand, is rest that is refreshing. MultoilOlliall Falls, Oreg'Oll. Multonomah, the grandest of all Columbia's falls, at the very foot of which the train makes a four-minute stop that passengers may leave the cars and, from a specially constructed platform, behold the beautiful spectacle as it tumbles over the top of a precipice eight hun- dred and forty feet high. Gordon Falls, Mist and Bridal Veil follow in quick succession. LatOUrelle, Oregon. Population, 350. Two schools, extensive saw- mills and lumbering-plant. Latourelle Falls, two hundred and twenty-five feet high, and one of the most picturesque cataracts in the state Far-famed Rooster Rock within one and a half miles. Troiltdale, Oregon. Population, 500. Two churches, one school, large slaughter and packing houses, one of the largest establishments of the kind on the coast. Surrounded by a rich fanning region; fine scenery, gravel roads and bicycle paths, streams full of trout. Fairview, Oregon. Population, 250. Two churches, one school, flour- ishing creamery, and cheese factory. Rich agricultural region. Then comes Portland, the metropolis of the northwest (described elsewhere in this volume), and we have completed our journey, so far as the railway is con- cerned, but we should not overlook the PACIFIC OCEAN TRIP: PORTLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO. And pleasurable as are all these trips offered by the Oregon Railroad & Navigation Company — up and down the Columbia, to the mountains, beaches, and inland resorts — one yet remains — by ocean steamer from Portland to San Francisco — that possesses delights and charms not enjoyed on the others. Staunchly built and thoroughly equipped in every particular, the steamships of the Oregon Railroad & Navigation Company make the trip in about fifty hours, and there is rest and new fife in every one of the seven hundred and sixty-five miles. The steamship Columbia, having accommodations for nearly two hundred first- class passengers, and almos as many second-class, is a type of the^line and the pride of the ocean-traveling public between the two places. She is safe, complete, and perfect in every detail, thousands of dollars having recently been expended in improving, refitting, and furnishing her. She is two hundred and thirty-four feet long, forty feet wide, and twenty-two feet deep; has the latest and most improved engines, with two thousand two hundred horse-power, steam-steering gear, and electric fights and bells. She has spacious aad well-furnished saloons, and her staterooms, bathrooms, and toilet-rooms are models of completeness. The meals are in keeping with the splendid equipment and reputation of the steamship. The officers are always obliging and courteous, and spare no pains in making the passengers comfortable and the trip pleasant. No accident has ever occurred to the Columbia, or to her sister ships of this line, but as a precaution she carries seven life-boats, six large life-rafts and hundreds of life-preservers. The scenery on this trip includes the beauties of the Lower Columbia through miles and miles of the famous salmon-fishing waters, past Astoria, and out the mouth of the great river, between Fort Canby and North Head on the right, and TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 327 Fort Stevens and the costly government jetty on the left. The forest-covered slopes of the Coast mountains form a pretty and striking background to the point where water and shore meet. Speedily the steamship plows her way southward through the liquid sapphire, past lonely Tillamook lighthouse, dangerous Rogue River Reef, Cape Mendocino, Humboldt Bay, and Point Arena, then into California's beautiful and world-famed Golden Gate, shortly afterward pulling alongside the company's wharf, where the passengers, refreshed, invigorated, and captivated by their ocean jaunt, with reluctance, leave the boat. 328 OVER THE RANGE ALTITUDE OF MOUNTAIN PEAKS OP THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Colorado and Utah. KAMPART RANGE. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 14,147 Pike's Peak El Paso Manitou Springs. FRONT RANGE. From Lulu Pass to Canon City in the transverse valley of the Arkansas. This range divides Grand County from Boulder County, passes through Gilpin County, Clear Creek County, and Park County, and ends in Fremont County. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 14,271. .Long'sPeak . .Boulder. . .Boulder. 14,336. .Torrey'sPeak.ClearCreek.Georgetown. 13,173. .Audubon Boulder.. .Sunset. 14,411. .Gray's Peak.. .Clear Creek. Georgetown. 13.520. .Arapahoe Boulder.. .Sunset. 14,321. .Evans Peak.. .Clear Creek.Georgetown. 13,283. .James Peak. . .Gilpin Central City. 14,340. .Mt. Rosalie.. .Clear Creek. Georgetown. 13,133. .Perry's Peak. . Gilpin Central City. 12,446. .Bison Peak. . .Park Fairplay. 12,873. .Mount Flora. .Gilpin Central City. MEDICINE BOW RANGE. Is due northern continuation of the North Range. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 13,832 Haynes Peak Larimer 13,167 Clark's Peak Larimer BLUE RTVER RANGE. Sometimes called Eagle River Mountains; runs parallel with the Park Range through Summit County. It ends in the western part of Park County. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 13, 398.. Mount Powell. Summit. .Dillon. 13,565. Mount Guyot Summit. Breckenridge. 12, 382.. Red Peak Summit. .Dillon. 13, 800. Mount Hamilton. Summit. Bn>ckenridge. 12,890.. Miles Peak.. . .Summit. .Dillon. 13,835. Silver Heel Park . . . . Como. 13,200. .Whale Peak. . .Park Breckenridge. PARK RANGE. Begins in the northern boundary of the State, marking the boundary lines of Routt and Larimer and ends in the transverse range of the Arkansas Mountains, passing through Eagle, Summit, Lake, Park, and Chaffee Counties, Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 12,126. . Mount Zirkel. Larimer. 14,008. .Sherman Pat k Alma. 14,269. .Quandary Summit .Breckenridge. 13,750.. Sheridan (No. 2). Park Fairplay. 14,297. .Lincoln Park Alma. 13,909. .Horseshoe Park Fairplay. 13, 796.. Arkansas Park Alma. 13,738. .Ptarmigan Park Fairplay. 13,961 . .Buckskin Park Alma. 13,328. .Buffalo Peak Parfi Fairplay. 14,185..Bross Park Alma. 14,132. .Goat's Peak Park Fairplay. 13,650.. Evans (No. 2). Park Alma. SAGUACHE RANGE. Begins in Eagle County and runs parallel with the Park Range, the Arkansas River flowing between them in the southern region. It traverses Lake and Chaffee counties and ends in the Cochetopa Hills, the central part of the Continental Divide. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. ,, 17fi ( Mount of the ? t- orr1 „ -rq^ nnfF 14,375. .Harvard, Chaffee Buena Vista. I4,wt> j Ho iy cross. ^agie....Keawiir. 14,187. .Yale Chaffee. ...Buena Vista. 13,073.. Homestake Ragle.... Red Clif*. 14,199. .Princeton.... Chaffee. ...Salida. 14,424 .Mount .Massive. Lake Leadville. 14 245. .Antero Chaffee Salida. 14,436 .Elbert Lake Leadville. 14,239. .Shavano Chaffee. ...Maysville. 14,302. .La Plata Peak.. Chaffee.. Buena Vista. 14,055. .Ouray Chaffee.... Marshall Pass. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 329 ELK MOUNTAINS OR ASPEN GROUP. This range is a great semi-circle o^ mountains In Pitkin County, with Aspen In the career and with spurs running into the adjoining county of Gunnison. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 12,823.. Sopris Peak... .Pitkin Carbondale. 13,327. .While Back.. .Gunnison. Crested Butte. 13,097. .Capital Peak. . .Pitkin Aspen. 13,113. .Teocalli Peak. Gunnison. crested Butte. 13, 978.. Snow Mass Pitkin Aspen. 13,956. .Grizzly Pitkin Aspen. 14,008. .Maroon Peak.. Pitkin Aspen. 13.350. .Italian Peak . .Gunnison. Crested Butte. 13,885. .Pyramid Peak. . Pitkin Aspen. 13,357. . White Rock. . .Pitkin Aspen. 14,115. .Castle Peak. . . .Pitkin Aspen. WEST ELK MOUNTAIVs. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point, 13,102 West Elk Peak Gunnison Gunnison. SANGRE DE CRISTO RANGE. It unites at its northern point with the Arkansas Hills, which run east and west, and with the Cochetopa Hills, which run from the southwest to the northeast and which form a part of the Continental Divide. N. B.— There are many unnamed peaks above 13,000 feet in this range. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 12,446. .Hunt's Peak.. .Fremont . .Poncha. 14,233. .Crestone Crant Moffat. 12,863. .Rito Alto Custer Villa Grove. 14,041. .Humboldt Custer Silver Cliff. 13,600.. Silesia Peak.. .Custer Hot Springs. 14,483. .Sierra Blanca. .Costilla Alamosa. 1 3,729 . . Gibson Peak . ..Custer Hot Springs. 14, 176 .. Old Baldy Costilla Blanca. 13,447. . Horn Peak .... Custer Moffat. 13,615 . . Grayback Costilla Blanca. CULEHA RANGE. Is a continuation of the Sangre de Cristo Range. Height, Name. County. Nearest Point. 14,079 Culeha Peak Las Animas Trinidad. 13,61 1 Trinchera Las Animas Trinidad. 13,718 Spanish Peak Las Animas Trinidad. THE SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS. This range is the southern part of the Continental Divide. It has many lateral ranges, like buttresses, and its general course is from southeast to northwest, where it joins with the Uncompahgre Range and the Cochetopa Hills. It is very little known, and contains many high unnamed mountains. It is spread over Saguache, Hinsdale (southern part), Archuleta, Rio Grande and Conejos counties. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 14,032.. Stewart Peak... Saguache.. Lake City, -io iK4 MawimhV; Pnalr Hinsrt.le (Wagon 14, 100.. San Luis Peak. .Saguache. .Lake City. 1^.154. Macomb s .Peak.. Hinsdale. } WneelGap- 13,131.. Mesa Peak Saguache. .Lake City. 12.673. Bellevue Peak.. .Rio Grande.Del Norte. 12,840.. Bristol Head.... Hinsdale.. . 13,081. Del Norte Peak. Rio Grande.Del Norte. 14,092. .Red Cloud Hinsdale.. .Lake City. 13,347. Conejos Rio Grande. j Pagosa 14,149. .Handies Peak.. .Hinsdale.. .Lake City. 12, 824. Banded Peak Archuleta .. J Springs. 13,400. .PoleCreekPeak.Hinsdale.. .Lake City. 14,065. Simpson's Peak..Rio Grande.Del Norte. 12,506. .San Juan Peak. .Hinsdale.. . NEEDLE MOUNTAINS. A series of short ranges on the west side of the Grand Divide, buttressing the San Juan Mountains. It contains many high isolated peaks named and unnamed. tight. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 12,305 \ She ^ d an 1 f eak \ La Plata. . .Durango. 14,055 { *%%£$& \ ' ' San Juan ' ? ? Needleton. 14,054. .^olus La Plata. . .Durango. 13,542. . Mount Kendall.San Juan Silverton. 14,051. .Needle Peak La Plata. . .Durango. 13,356. .Mount Canby. .San Juan Silverton. 13,755. .Mount Oso La Plata. . .Durango. 13,550. .King Solomon. San Juan Silverton. 13,928. .Pigeons Peak La Plata. . .Durango. 13,501. .Sultan San Juan Silverton. 13,357. .The Hunchback. San Juan. .Durango. 330 OVER THE RANGE OURAY MOUNTAINS. A prolongation of the San Miguel Mountains to the north, uniting with the Uncompahgre chain, which runs from west to east. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 14,340 Mount Sneffels Ouray Ouray. SAN MIGUEL MOUNTAINS. Nearest Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Point. 14,075. .Unnamed San Miguel. Telluride. 13.890. .Unnamed Dolores Rico. 14,160. .Lizard Head . .San Miguel. Trout Lake. 12,703. .Mount Freeman. Dolores Rico. 14,309. ..Mount Wilson. Dolores Ophir. 12,516. .Mount Elliott Dolores Rico. 13,502. .Dolores Peak. Dolores Ophir. 12,542. .Anchor Doleres Rico. 12,703..MountDolores.Dolores Rico. 12,635. .Lone Cone.. .an Miguel.Telluride. LA PLATA MOUNTAINS. Are a prolongation south of the San Miguel Range. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 13,376 Hesperus Montezuma Dolores. 13.456 Babcock La Plata Durango. UNCOMPAHGRE MOUNTAINS. This range is short and runs from west to east. It contains some very high mountains, usually at right angles- to the chain. Height. Name. County. Nearest Paint. 14,419 Uncompahgre Hinsdale Ouray. 14,069 The Wetterhorn Hinsdale Ouray. WASATCH MOUNTAINS (UTAH). This is the principal mountain range of Utah and extends from north to south through the central part of the state. Salt Lake City lies at its feet. Some of its peaks are snow-capped the year round. Nearest Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. Coanty. Point. 12 080 .Twin Peaks. ...Salt Lake.. Salt Lake City. Timpanogos . ...Utah Provo. 12,194. .Monte Cristo.. .Weber Ogden. 10,100. .Mount Heber. . .Wasatch Heber. 12i062. .Clayton's Peak. Wasatch. . .Park City. UINTAH MOUNTAINS (UTAH). The general trend of this range is east and west. It is just north of the Uintah Indian reservation near the Wyoming line. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 11 730. .Mount Baldy. . .Wasatch Heber, 13,787. .Gilbert Wasatch Heber. 12!000. .Mount Agassi/.. Summit Heber. 12,000. .Mount Nebo Juab Goshen. 13,000. .Wilson's Peak. .Wasatch Heber. OQUIRRH RANGE (UTAH). This is the beautiful range of mountains that skirts the western shores of Great Salt Lake and extends north and south parallel with the Wasatch Mountains. It has no prominent peaks, the entire range averaging an elevation of 9,000 to 10,000 feet. Mount Nebo might be considered in this range, which joins hands on the south with the mighty Wasatch. HENRY MOUNTAINS (UTAH). Away in the southeastern corner of the state lie the Henry Mountains, the Elk Range, the La Sals, and the Blue Mountains. These have recently come into prominence by location of valuable mineral deposits. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. Height. Name. County. Nearest Point. 11, 470.. Mount Ellen Garfield. .Green River. 13,000. .Mount Peale....San Juan.. Thompson. 11,050. .Mount Pennel.. .Garfield. .Green River. 12.271. .Mount Tomaski. Grand Thompson. 11,000. .Mount Linnfeus.San Juan.Thompson. 12,586. .Mount Waas — Grand Thompson. DEEP CREEK MOUNTAINS (UTAH). The Deep Creek Range extends north and south along the border between Utah and Nevada. These mountains, like the Parowan, Iron, and numerous other small ranges in the southwestern portion, are but spurs of the main mountain range known as the Wasatch and of which the Oquirrhs are a part. There are numerous peaks with an elevation of 8,000 to 10,000 feet. TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 331 MOUNTAIN PASSES. Feet. Alpine Pass 13.550 Argentine Pass 13,100 Cocbetopa Pass 10,032 Hayden Pass 10,780 Trout Creek Pass. 9,346 Berthoud Pass 1 1.349 Marshall Pass 10,856 Veta Pass 9,392 Feet. Poncha Pass 8,945 Tennessee Pass 10,240 Tarryall Pass 12,176 Breckenridge Pass 9,490 Cottonwood Pass 1 3,500 Fremont Pass 11.540 Mosquito Pass 13,700 Ute Pass 11,200 ELEVATION OF LAKES. Feet. Twin Lakes 9,357 Grand Lake 8,153 Green Lakes 10.000 Chicago Lakes 11,500 Evergreen Lakes . . 10,500 Feet. Seven Lakes 11,806 Palmer Lake 7.238 Cottonwood Lake 7,700 Trout Lake 9.800 ALTITUDES OF TOWNS AND CITIES. REVISED SINCE FIRST EDITION FROM ENGINEER'S MEASUREMENTS. Feet. Alamosa 7,546 Animas City 6,554 Animas Forks 11,200 Antonito 7,888 Aspen 7,874 Buena Vista 7,970 Canon City 5,344 Castle Rock 6,220 Colorado Springs 5,992 Crested Butte 8,875 Creede 9,016 Conejos 7,880 Cottonwood Springs 8,950 Cuchara 5,943 Cumbres 10,015 Delta 4,983 Del Norte 7,880 Denver 5,196 Durango 6,520 El Moro 5,879 Garland 7,936 Granite 8,945 Grand Junction 4,594 Gunnison 7,680 Glenwood Springs 5,758 Howardsville 9,700 Irwin 10,500 Kokomo 10,614 Lake City 8,686 Feet. La Veta 7,024 Leadville 10,200 Los Piuos 9,637 Montrose 5,811 Malta 9,580 Mancos 7,008 Manitou 6,318 Ojo Caliente 7,324 Ouray 7,721 Ogden, Utah 4,286 Pagosa Springs 7,108 Pinos, Chama Summit 9,902 Poncha Springs 7,480 Palmer Lake 7,238 Pueblo 4,669 Bed Cliff 8,615 Eidgway 7,002 Robinson 10.861 Rosita 8,500 Ruby Camp 10,500 Saguache 7,723 Salt Lake City 4,228 Silver Cliff 7,816 Silverton 9,224 Salida 7,050 Telluride 8,756 Trimble Springs 6,575 Westcliffe 7,864 Wagon Wheel Gap 8,449 PRONUNCIATION OF PROPER NAMES. Acequia A-sa-kia Crested Butte Crested Bute Costillia Costea Canon Can-yon Cumbres Cum-breez Cuchara Cu-cha-ra Canejos Co-na-hos Chihuahua Che-wa-wa Huerfano. Wa- far-no La Junta La Hun-ta La Jara La Hara La Veta La Va-ta Manitou Man-i-too Monero Mo-na-ro Navajo Na-va-ho Ojo Caliente O-ho Cal-i-en-te Ojo O-ho Pueblo de Taos Pueblo-de-Tows Pifion Pin-yon Saguache Si-watch Sierra Mojeda Sierra Mo-ya-da Santa Fe San-ta Fay San Juan San M an San Miguel San-me-gil Sapinero Sapi-na-ro Tlerra Amarilla Tier Ama-rea Trinchera Trin-chara Vallejo Vall-a-ho Wanatoya Wa-ha-toy-ya INDEX OF TOWNS AND POINTS OF INTEREST COLORADO. Accquia Alamosa to Espanola and Santa Fe. Alamosa to Silverton Alamosa Animas Canon Antelope Springs Antonito Arkansas River Aspen Aspen Branch (D. & R. G. R. R. ). Avalanche Creek Bathing at Glenwood Springs . . . . Bathing Pool at Glenwood Springs. Bear Creek Falls Black Canon of the Gunnison . . .. Bowerman, Camp Broadmoor Brown's Canon Buena Vista Burnham Canon City Canon of the Grand River Carbondale Carlile Springs Castle Rock Cerro Summit Cimarron Cimarron Canon Chama Cheyenne Mountain Chipeta Falls Chrvsolite Extension (D. & R. G. R.R.) Clark's Magnetic Springs Cliff Dwellings Coal Basin Coal Creek Branch Coal Creek Colorado City Colorado Springs Cottonwood Springs Crane's Park Creede Creede Branch Crested Butte Crested Butte Branch Cripple Creek Cripple Creek District Cripple Creek Short Line Crystal River Railroad AGE. 17 105 113 99 121 i°3 106 142 5 2 5° 5 2 49 5° r 34 2 3 40 40 16 33 44 5° 3 1 17 117 43 3i 125 5 2 33 33 23 19 40 44 10 3 99 82 82 27 32 25 5° Cuchara Junction 95 Cumbres Pass 117 Curecanti Needle 86 Del Norte 100 Delta 90 Denver 13 Denver to Pueblo 13 Dillon 143 Dolores 129 Dolores Canon 129 Douglas 17 Downward to Dillon 143 Dulce 117 Durango 119 Durango to Ridgway 125 Eagle River Canon 46 Eagle River Valley 46 Elk Park 123 El Moro 93 Florence 32 Florence & Cripple Creek R. R. .. 32 Floresta 84 Fort Logan 16 Fountain 29 Fremont Pass 142 Fruita 57 Garfield Memorial 115 Garland 96 Glen Park 19 Glenwood Springs 49 Grand Junsction 55 Grand River Canon 47 Grand Valley 55 Granite 40 Gunnison 82 Gunnison, Canon of the 86 Gunnison River 86 Hotchkiss 92 Ignacio 119 La Jara 105 Lake City 84. Lake City Branch 84 Lake Fork Canon 84 La Veta 95 La Veta Pass 95 Leadville 43 Leadville to Dillon 140 Littleton 16 Lizard Head Pass 129 Los Pinos Valley 113 333 334 INDEX. COLORADO — Continued. PAGE. Lost Canon 127 Lumberton 117 Mancos 127 Manitou 23 Marshall Pass 80 Minturn 46 Missouri River to Denver 9 Mears Junction 78 Meeker 55 Monarch Branch 76 Monte Vista 99 Montrose 88 Monument 19 Monument Park 19 Mount of the Holy Cross 44, 142 Mount Princeton Hot Springs .... 40 New Castle 55 North Fork Branch 90 Ophir Loop 131 Ouray 134 Ouray to Montrose 138 Overland Park 16 Pagosa Junction 117 Pagosa Springs 117 Palmer Lake 17 Palmilla 106 Paonia 92 Parkdale 36 Parnassus Springs 31 Penny's Hot Springs 52 Perry Park 17 Petersburg 16 Phantom Curve 113 Pike's Peak 27 Placita 52 Poncha 76 Poncha Pass 78 Poncha Springs 76 Preface 5 Pueblo 29 Pueblo to Ogden 32 Pueblo to Alamosa 93 Red Cliff 44 Red Cliff Canon Redstone Ridgway 131, Rico Rifle Romeo Royal Gorge Royal Gorge Hot Springs Salida Salida to Grand Junction San Luis Valley Branch San Luis Valley Sapinero Sedalia Sierra Blanca Silverton Silverton to Montrose Spanish Peaks Stage Ride, Ouray Toll Road .... Steamboat Springs Telluride Tennessee Pass Texas Creek Toltec Gorge Tomichi Meadows Trimb'e Hot Springs Trinidad Trinidad Branch Trout Fishing in the Rio Grande . . Trout Lake Twin Lakes Valley View Hot Springs Vance Junction Vapor Caves, Glenwood Springs . . Villa Grove Wagon Creek Junction Wagon Wheel Gap Walsenburg Waunita Hot Spring Wellsville Hot Springs West Cliff West Cliff Branch Wolhurst AGE 44 5 2 138 129 55 106 36 34 39 76 78 97 84 17 97 123 133 93 *33 46 131 43 36 ir 5 82 121 93 03 103 129 42 78 131 5° 78 96 101 95 82 39 38 36 17 UTAH. Alta 66 American Fork 64 Bingham 66 Bingham Branch 66 Bingham Junction 65 Book Cliffs 57 Brigham 304 Cache Junction 304 Castle Gate 59 Climbing the Wasatch 57 Colliston 304 Colton 59 Corinne 145 Cottonwood Branch 66 Dewey 304 Fort du Chesne 59 Geological Features 145 Grand Canon of the Colorado .... 57 Great Salt Lake 70 Green River 57 Helper 50 Hot Springs 68 Hot Springs 304 Jordan River 66 Kelton 146 Kyune 59 Lehi 65 Logan 306 INDEX. 335 UTAH — Continued. Monument 146 Ogden 144, 3°4 Ogden to San Francisco 144 Ogden to Portland 304 Oregon Short Line 304 Park City 73 Park City Branch 73 Pleasant Valley Branch 00 Price 59 Promontory 145 Provo 62 Provo Canon Branch 64 Red Narrows 60 Saltair 72 Salt Lake 70 Salt Lake City 66 Salt Lake City to Ogden 74 San Pete Branch 60 Soldier's Summit 60 Spanish Fork 62 Spanish Fork Canon 61 Springville 62 Thistle Junction 60 Thompson's 57 Tintic Branch 62 Towns in the Desert 148 Utah Desert 57 Utah Lake 64 Utah Valley 61 Warm Springs 68 "What the Engines Said" 145 Woodside 57 NEW MEXICO. Aztec 121 Barranca 107 Bloomfield 121 Chama 117 Comanche Canon 108 Dulce 117 Embudo no Espanola no Espanola to Santa Fe 1 1 1 Farmington 121 Indian Pueblos no Lumberton 117 Ojo Caliente 107 Pueblo Santa Cruz no Pueblo San Juan no Pueblo de Taos no Santa Fe in NEVADA. Battle Mountain 150 Beowawe 150 Brown's 153 Carlin 149 Carson Lake 153 Carson City 154 Cluro 150 Desert 154 Elko 149 Golconda 150 Gravelly Ford 150 Hot Springs 153 Humboldt 152 Humboldt Valley 149 Humboldt Palisades 149 Humboldt Lake 153 Lake Region 153 Lovelocks 152 Mirage 153 Moores 148 Mud Lake 153 Nevada Desert 152 Oreana 152 Palisades of the Humboldt 149 Palisade 149 Pyramid Lake 153 Rye Patch 152 Reno 154 Sierra Nevada Range 155 Toano 148 Twelve Mile Canon 149 Valley Region 150 Virginia City 154 Wadsworth 154 Walker's Lake 1^3 Wells 148 Winnemucca 152 Winnemucca Lake 153 CALIFORNIA. Acton 226 Ager 285 Agnews 269 Alameda 269 Alameda Mole 270 Alameda Point 269 Alcatraz Islan 1 176 Alcatraz 233 Alma 267 Alvarado 269 Alviso 269 American River Bridge 162 Anaheim 203 Anderson 278 33 6 INDEX. CALIFORNIA — Continued. PAGE. Angel Island 176 Antioch 180 Antonio 235 Aptos 250 Arbuckle 289 Arcadia 267 Army Point 166 Arroyo Grande 237 Athlone 183 Auburn 160 Azusa 208 Baden 265 Bailey's 281 Bakersfield 188 Banta 166 Bay Shore 266 Beach Drive 237 Belmont 264 Benicia 166 Ben Lomond 266 Bentwood 180 Berenda 183 Beresford 264 Big Trees 266, 273 Boulder Creek 206 Bradley 242 Bromela 236 Buena Park 203 Burbank 225 Burlingame 265 Byron 180 Byron Hot Springs 180 Calaveras Grove 273 Caliente 188 Callender 236 Cameron 190 Campbell 268 Camulos 226 Canons of the Coast Line 232 Cape Horn 160 Capitan 233 Capitola 252 Carnadero 256 Carpinteria 227 Carquinez Straits 166 Cascade 159 Casmalia 235 Castle Crag 281 Castroville 246 Centerville 269 Channel Country 228 Chatsworth Park 225 Chico 277 Chico Vecino 278 Chualar 244 City Hall (San Francisco) 174 Clem 267 Cliff House 169, 175 Cliff Trip 230 Climate 2t8 PAGE. Climbing the Sierra Nevadas 158 Coast Line 225 Colfax 160 Colma 265 Colton 209 Colusa Junction 289 Compton 194 Concepcion 233 Congress Springs 268 Corning 286 Coronado Crag View Cucamonga Cupertino Davis Del Monte Donnor Lake Downey Duarte Dunnigan Dutch Flat Eden Vale Edgewood Edna Edwards City Elmira Elsinore Lake Elwood Emigrant Gap Fair Oaks Famoso Felton Fernando Fillmore Finello Florence Fresno Gato Gaviota Germantown Gilroy Gilroy Hot Springs Glenwood Goleta Golden Gate Park 1 7c, Gonzales Goshen Goshen Division Grover Guadalupe Historic Ground Hollister Hopkins Institute of Art Horn, Cape Horseshoe Incline Independence Lake Irrigation Jalama Kern River Oil Region Keswick 218 281 220 268 164 247 158 203 159 2 57 285 237 233 166 210 230 159 264 188 266 225 226 286 104 184 2 33 233 288 256 256 267 230 174 244 186 186 237 235 159 255 174 160 238 158 187 234 188 280 INDEX. 337 CALIFORNIA -Continued. PAGE. Kingsburg 185 King's City 243 King's River 186 Kirkwood 288 La Honda 264 Lake Tahoe 155 Lamanda Park 205 Lathrop 180 Laurel 267 Lawrence 262 Le Franc 268 Libraries (San Francisco) 176 Lick Observatory 258 Lincoln 275 Lompoc 234 Lompoc Valley 228, 234 Long Beach 196 Los Alamitos 203 Los Angeles 191 Los Angeles to San Diego 205 Los Angeles to Santa Barbara .... 225 Los Gatos 267 Madear 184 Madrone 257 Markets (San Francisco) 176 Martinez 178 Marysville 275 Matilija Hot Springs 227 Mayfield 262 Maywood Colony 286 Maxwell 289 McKittrick 188 Meehan 267 Menlo Park 264 Merced 183 Metz 243 Millbrae 265 Mint (San Francisco) 176 Mission Dolores 173, 176 Mission Santa Barbara 228 Monterey 247 Monterey County 242 Modesto 183 Mojave 190, 226 Mojave Desert 190 Monrovia 208 Montague 285 Montalvo 226 Morganhill 257 Morocojo 246 Mott 282 Mount Eden 269 Mount Lowe 202 Mount Tamalpais 176 Mountain View 262 Murietta 2 ro Muir's Peak 284 Naples 232 Narlon 235 Narrow Gauge Line 266 PAGE. National City 216 Neponset 246 New Almaden 268 Newark 269 New Castle 160 Newhall 190, 225 Newport 204 New Roseville 2 18 Nordhoff 227 Norman 288 Norwalk 203 Oakland 176 Oakland Mole 166 Oceano 237 Oceano to San Miguel 237 Oceanside 210 Oceanview 265 Ontario 220 Opal 252 Orange 204 Orella 233 Orland 288 Oroville 276 Overhanging Rock 233 Oxnard 226 Pacific Grove 249 Pajaro 250 Palo Alto 262 Paraiso Springs m 244 Pasadena 199 Paso Robles 239 Paso Robles Hot Springs 239 Pescadero 264 Pinnacles, The 243 Pinole 166 Piru 226 Plains Region 162 Point Arguello 234 Pomona 223 Port Costa 166 Port Los Angeles 199 Post Office (San Francicso) 175 Presidio Reservation 175 Railway Offices (San Fransicso) . . 176 Raymond 205 Red Bluff 278 Redding 280 Redwood City 264 Redwood Forest 264 Richfield 286 Riverside, East 209 Riverside, South 209 Riverside 210 River Traffic 182 Rocklin 162 Roseville Junction 162 Roseville 218 Russell 269 Sacate 233 Sacramento 162 338 INDEX. CALIFORNIA —Continued. PAGE. Sacramento Canon 281 Salinas 244 San Antonio Mission 243 San Ardo 242 San Augustine 233 San Benito County 254 San Benito Valley 254 San Bernardino 208 San Bernardino County and Valley 209 San Bruno 265 San Buenaventura 227 San Carlos 264 San Diego 212 San Diego Bay 214 San Diego to Los Angeles 218 San Fernando 190 San Fernando Tunnel 190 San Francisco 1 68 San Francisco, South 265 San Francisco Bay 171 San Francisco to San Diego 168 San Francisco to the Great North- west . 275 San Gabriel 202 San Gabriel Valley 206 San Joaquin Valley 180 San Jose 255, 258 San Juan 254 San Juan County 254 San Lucas 242 San Luis Obispo 237 San Luis Obispo County 237 San Martin 257 San Mateo 265 San Miguel 242 San Pedro 194 Santa Ana 204 Santa Anita 233 Santa Barbara 228 Santa Catalina 194 Santa Clara 262 Santa Clara Mission 260 Santa Clara Valley 255 Santa Cruz 252 Santa Cruz and Broad Gauge Line. 250 Santa Cruz Mountains 266 Santa Margarita 239 Santa Maria 236 Santa Maria Valley 228 Santa Monica 197 Santa Paula 226 Santa Ysabel 240 Saratoga Springs 268 Saticoy 226 Saugus 225 Schumann 235 Seal Rocks 169, 175 Selma 185 SesDe Canon 226 PAGE. Shasta 284 Shasta Region 281 Shasta Retreat 282 Shasta Springs 282 Shore Trip to Santa Cruz 250 Short Tours Adjacent to Los Angeles 194 Sierra Madre Villa 206 Sierra Nevada Range 158 Sims 281 Sisson 282 Sixteenth St. Station 166 Soda Springs 159 Soledad 243 Soldier's Home 199 Somis 227 Southward Bound 178 Spreckle's Sugar Factory 246 Stanford Stock Farm 264 Stanford University 262 Stockton 182 Summerland 227 Summit (Sierra Nevadas) 159 Sunnyvale 262 Surf 234 Sutro Baths 175 Sutro Heights 175 Sweet Brier 281 Sweetwater Dam 218 Tahoe, Lake 155 Tajiguas 233 Tangair 235 Tassajara Springs 246 Tehachapi Pass 189 Tehachapi Summit 189 Tehama 278 Templeton 239 Tipton 187 Tracy 180 Traver 186 Tropico 225 Truckee 15 s Tulare 187 Tulare County 187 Tustin 204 Union Mill 267 Upper Soda Springs 282 Upton 284 Valencia Street 265 Vallejo Junction 166 Visalia 186 Waldorf 235 Watsonville 250 Webber Lake 158 Webster 164 West San Leandro 269 West San Lorenzo 269 West Side 286 Wheatland -275 Whittier 207 INDEX. 339 CALIFORNIA Continued. PAGE. Wildomar 210 Williams 289 Willows 288 Wilson's College 194 Wright 267 PAGE, Yolo 289 Yosemite, To the 271 Yosemite Valley 271 Yuba River 275 Zayante 267 IDAHO. American Falls 311 Bellevue 311 Blackfoot 307 Bliss 312 Boise City 312 Caldwell 314 Dubois 307 Franklin 306 Glenn's Ferry 312 Hailev . 312 Harrison 320 Idaho Falls 307 Ketchum 312 Kimama 311 Lewiston 319 Market Lake 307 McCammon 306 Meridian 312 Minidoka 311 Mountain Home 312 Moscow 320 Nampa 312 Oxford 306 Payette 314 Preston 306 Pocatello 314 Shoshone 311 Spencer 307 Wallace 320 Wardner 320 Weiser 314 MONTANA. Butte 311 Dillon 310 Divide 310 Grand Canon of the Yellowstone . . 308 Lima 310 Melrose 310 Monida 307 Silver Bow 311 Yellowstone National Park . ..307, 308 OREGON. Albany 292 Ashland 290 Arlington 323 Athena 318 Baker City 314 B fggs 3 2 4 Bingham Springs 316 Bonneville 325 Cascade Locks 325 Columbia River 323 Dalles 324 Divide 292 Durkee 314 Echo 319 Elgin 316 Eugene 292 Fairview '. . 326 Heppner 323 Heppner Junction 323 Hilgard 316 Hood, Mount 324 Hood River 324 Hot Lake 315 Huntington 314 Jacksonville Kamela . Lalourelle Le Grande Manufacturing Magnificent Harbor Meacham Modern Improvements Mosier Multonomah Falls Mount Hood Oregon City Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. Oregon and the Siskiyou Pacific Ocean Trip Pendleton Perry Picturesque Surroundings Pleasant Valley Portland Portland to San Francisco Rogue River Valley Roseburg Salem 290 316 326 316 295 299 316 295 324 326 3 2 4 293 3i4 290 326 316 3i6 296 3M 293 326 290 292 292 34° INDEX. OREGON — Continued. Scenic Attractions 292 Siskiyou Station 290 State Line 290 Troutdale 326 Umatilla 319 Umpqua Valley . 292 Union 315 Viento 325 WASHINGTON. Bolles 318 Climate of Puget Sound 297 Colfax 319 Dayton 318 Fairfield 322 Garfield 320 La Crosse 519 Latah 320 Magnificent Harbor 299 Okesdale 320 Pomeroy 318 Pullman 320 Rockford . . 3 22 Seattle 300 Seattle, Advantages of 302 Seattle, Beauty of Spokane Starbuck Tacoma Tea Trade with the Orient Tekoa Terminal and Shipping Facilities. Trade with the Middle West Trade with South America and Mexico Waitsburg Walla Walla Wallula Waverlev - MISCELLANEOUS. Altitude of Mountain Peaks and Passes 328 Altitude of Mountain Passes 331 Altitude of Lakes Altitudes of Towns and Cities . . Pronunciation of proper names . 302 322 3i8 296 300 320 299 299 3i8 3i8 3JQ 322 331 33* 33*